Description:
FIELD OF INVENTION
The present invention relates to modifying a perfume composition based on consumer’s preference and a method thereof.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The genesis of perfume fragrances can be traced back to the Stone Age and has evolved into a multi-billion-dollar industry today. Humans historically used scents for medical effect and for masking body odors. In the modern world, perfume fragrances play a more complex role and they remain extremely popular for both women and men. Gas chromatography (GC) and mass spectrometry (MS) are by far the most important analytical techniques in the perfume industry for unravelling the composition of perfumes (i.e. perfume formulation), quality control, competitor analysis and trace analysis on substrates though no approach has been made to create a co-relation between perfume components with consumer preference/likability.

Katarzyna Jagodzińska, et al. in CHEMIK 2011, 65, 2, 88-93, reported analytical methods for identification and determination of some cosmetics ingredients. Different fragrance chemicals were determined in cosmetic products by using separation techniques like chromatography. The fragrance chemicals usually have low boiling points, and consequently gas chromatography (GC) is the technique of choice. After sample preparation and optimization of experimental conditions, using flame ionization (FID) the individual Kovats Index (KI) of each compound was determined, which stands for a relative measurement of the retention time with respect to a group of known hydrocarbons. The identification is carried out by comparing the experimentally determined KI with the values kept in databases.

E. Deconinck et al in Talanta, http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.talanta.2014.08.006 reported HS-GC-MS method for the analysis of fragrance allergens in complex cosmetic matrices. An easy to perform liquid extraction was developed, combined with a new headspace GC-MS method. 18 cosmetic products of different formulation types, including creams, lotions and gels were analyzed for the presence of undeclared allergenic fragrance ingredients. The sample was incubated in GC at 135°C for 10 min, with the injection of 1 ml of the vapour phase into the GC/MS system in split injection mode (split ration 6.8:1). Temperatures of the headspace loop, the transfer line, and the EPC volatiles interface, were 145, 155 and 160 °C, respectively. Helium was delivered as carrier gas at a constant pressure of 14.65 psi with an initial flow of 1.3 ml/min. The temperature gradient started at 50 °C (held for 1 min) and raised with 7 °C/min to reach 162 °C. The temperature gradient continued at 30 °C/min, until 320 °C, which was held for 1 min. The total run time was 23.27 min. Temperatures of the injection port, the ion source, the quadrupole, and the interface, were set at 160, 230, 150 and 280 °C, respectively. For the identification of the fragrance ingredients.

T.F.T.A. Ghani et al. in Malaysian Journal of Fundamental and Applied Sciences Vol.10, No.3 (2014) 124-128, reported that in perfume industry, the most commonly used analytical instruments are gas chromatography (GC) and mass spectrometry (MS) because most ingredients are polar and semi-volatile in nature. Besides that, perfumes are one of the fine fragrances which are is also used in creams, lotions, detergents and almost 100 ingredients or more contained fine fragrances. GC-MS can also reveal that some of the formula for a particular perfume is due to the presence of essential oils and other ingredients consisting of complex chemical mixtures. After the GC-MS analysis was analyzed, pattern recognition method was applied to illustrate the compositional and distribution data of perfume. Methodologies in pattern recognition can be divided into three types that is statistical, syntactic, and hybrid. It aims to classify data (patterns) based on either a priori knowledge or on statistical information extracted from the patterns.

The present invention is focused on method of formulating choice of perfume according to the consumer’s preference and using the same in a perfumed product.
According to the present inventors, during the preparation of a perfumed product, different perfume compositions comprising perfumed components are mixed in specific concentrations to provide a specific characteristic fragrance, which further defines the product in term of its specific characteristic fragrance.

For formulating the fragrance of a perfumed product, the perfume compositions are purchased from different places and are mixed by local vendors. During mixing of these perfume compositions often the perfume components of the composition are not provided in the desired concentration and although the resulting fragrance formed by mixing matches the desired fragrance, but lacks in its profile intensity. For example, a sample perfume composition provides similar fragrance, but the fragrance fades away after some time.

The present invention therefore, provides a method by which a sample perfume composition can be checked for its desired components required for matching to an ideal perfume in terms of fragrance and as well as profile intensity, and therefore provides a method by which a perfume can be designed to provide fragrance of choice.

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention to provide a method by which a sample perfume composition can be checked for its desired components required for matching to an ideal perfume in terms of fragrance and as well as profile intensity.

It is further an object of the present invention to provide a method by which a perfume composition can be designed according to consumer’s likeability.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In an aspect there is provided a method of modifying the components of a sample perfume composition to provide the characteristic fragrance of an existing perfume composition comprising the steps of:
i. olfactive evaluation of a sample perfume composition,
ii. chromatographic profiling of the sample perfume composition by GC-MS to determine components of perfume composition,
iii. co-relating each and every component of the sample perfume composition with an existing perfume composition in a perfume intelligence map and odor triangle,
iv. modifying the perfume components at molecular level.

It is further an aspect of the present invention to provide a perfume composition prepared by the above method.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
Figure 1 illustrates summary of olfactive assessment of existing and sample perfume composition.

Figure 2 illustrates odor triangle of an existing perfume composition.

Figure 3 illustrates summary of olfactive assessment of existing and sample perfume composition after modification.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The following description with reference to the accompanying drawings is provided to assist in a comprehensive understanding of various embodiments of the present disclosure as defined by the claims and their equivalents. It includes various specific details to assist in that understanding but these are to be regarded as merely exemplary. Accordingly, those of ordinary skill in the art will recognize that various changes and modifications of the various embodiments described herein can be made without departing from the scope and spirit of the present disclosure. In addition, descriptions of well-known functions and constructions may be omitted for clarity and conciseness.

It is to be understood that the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Thus, for example, reference to "a component surface" includes reference to one or more of such surfaces.

The terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular various embodiments only and is not intended to be limiting of various embodiments. It will be further understood that the terms "comprises" and/or "comprising" used herein specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, members, components, and/or groups thereof, but do not preclude the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, members, components, and/or groups thereof. Also, expressions such as "at least one of," when preceding a list of elements, modify the entire list of elements and do not modify the individual elements of the list.

Designing of a perfume depends on the notes of fragrance components. A perfume component present at the top note provides the smells that people notice when the perfume is first applied, these components start to evaporate off soon from the skin. A component present at heart notes provide smells that define a perfume, and evaporate slower than the top notes. The components present at base notes provide smells that linger long.

In an embodiment there is provided a method of designing a perfume composition based on consumer’s likeability.

A perfumed product is defined and recognized by its specific fragrance, which is a result of mixing of various perfume compositions at a specific proportion.

A perfume composition on the other hand is the mixture of many volatile and liquid components having their own characteristics fragrance, which are mixed according to their rate of evaporation and the mixture of perfume components provide fragrance based on their rate of evaporation. Such perfume compositions are often costly and are purchased at high cost.

While mixing the perfume composition for a specific perfume product, often the resulting mixture does not contain specific perfume components in desired concentrations and as a result of which although results in similar fragrance, but lags in profile intensity.

Therefore, the present invention provides a method by which the fault or missing link in a sample perfume composition is identified due to which the sample lags to match with an existing perfume composition, and with the help of this identification the sample composition can be modified to match with the existing composition.

The method provides determination of differences in the perfume mixture by creating a perfume intelligence map and correlating the perfume components with the components of an ideal existing perfume mix.

The present invention therefore provides a method by which a sample perfume composition is modified to match with an existing perfume composition or the sample perfume composition is modified according to the consumer’s preference. The present method provides a modified sample perfume composition having the characteristic fragrance of an existing perfume composition.

The method of modifying the components of a sample perfume composition to provide the characteristic fragrance of an existing perfume composition comprises the steps of:
i. olfactive evaluation of a sample perfume composition,
ii. chromatographic profiling of the sample perfume composition by GC-MS,
iii. co-relating each and every component of the sample perfume composition with an existing perfume composition in a perfume intelligence map,
iv. modifying the perfume components at molecular level.

In the step (i) of olfactive evaluation of a sample perfume composition, a sample is evaluated by trained professionals for its type of fragrance and its profile intensity by evaluating the persistence time of the composition.

The sample perfume composition is then subjected to GC-MS profiling to determine the specific components present in the sample perfume composition.

The determination of perfume components of a sample perfume composition, comprises the steps of:
a. gas chromatography of a perfume sample at initial temperature 70 ̊C hold for 1 minute, Ramp 5 ̊C per minute to 180 ̊C, hold for 2 minute, Ramp 10 ̊C per minute to 200 ̊C, and hold for 15 minute; in presence of carrier gas (Helium), at a flow rate of 1.00 ml/minute, and injection split of 30:1 at 260 ̊C,
b. performing headspace analysis at oven temperature of 120oC, loop temperature at 130oC and transfer line temperature at 140°C; and
c. analysing the components in mass spectrometer at temperature 250oC.

The gas chromatography is carried out in presence of Helium gas as carrier gas.

A comparative chromatographic profiling of existing and sample perfume is carried out to identify the difference in perfume components at molecular level.

Thus, a new perfume composition can be redesigned by directly mixing the perfume components in the desired concentration based on the perfume intelligence map.

After determination of the perfume components present in the perfume compositions, each and every sample perfume component are sorted according to the top, middle and base categories of Odour triangle to understand the contribution of components at three different levels as well as to understand the category, which needs to be changed/modify to match with the existing perfume composition.

The sample perfume composition can be modified to match with the existing perfume composition by modifying the perfume components at molecular level to mitigate the gap and simultaneous olfactive evaluation by trained professionals.

With the determination of the perfume components present in the perfume composition, a perfume composition can be designed by directly mixing the perfume components instead of purchasing different perfume compositions. Thus, the present invention provides a cost effective method to prepare a perfume composition.

Choice of fragrances vary with person to person. The present invention provides a method by which the perfume components delivering fragrances are identified and further can be modified according to a consumer’s preference.

Therefore, there is provided a method of designing a choice of perfume composition, which comprises modifying the perfume components of a sample composition by varying the concentration of the perfume components in top, middle and base categories of an odour triangle.

The choice of perfume composition so obtained can be used in other perfumed product. The other perfume products are selected from creams, oils, lotions, perfumes, soaps, shampoo, and body wash.

The invention is further illustrated by way of Examples.

Example 1: Method of modifying a sample perfume composition according to an existing perfume composition
A scented talk is used as sample and is redesigned by comparing with an existing perfume composition. The sample composition was evaluated for its fragrance and profile intensity. Figure 1 shows the olfactive evaluation and profile intensity of the sample composition with an existing perfume composition. It was found that the sample composition although provides similar fragrance, but loses its intensity of providing fragrance after 15 minutes.

To determine the cause of difference in profile intensity the sample composition is analyzed by GC-MS method. The GC-MS method determines the perfume components present in the sample as well as the existing perfume and provides their retention time along with the concentration by which the components are present in the sample and existing perfume composition. Table 1 provides the list of perfume components along with their retention time and concentration for the sample composition and an existing perfume composition.

Table-1: Comparative GC-MS of existing & match prototypes
Sr. no. Ret. time (min) Name of the compound Existing Composition Sample Composition
1 3.138 D-Limonene 0.15 0.15
2 3.263 Eucalyptol 1.33 1.09
3 4.918 Rose Oxide 0.24 0.17
4 5.568 3,5,5-Trimethylhexyl acetate 6.55 4.77
5 6.848 3 7-Dimethyl-1,6-octadiene 15.81 15.08
6 7.599 Camphor 0.52 0.52
7 8.780 Linalyl formate 7.80 6.51
8 9.034 Verdox 10.17 8.77
9 10.210 2-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate 1.76 1.42
10 11.352 3-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate 5.60 5.78
11 12.770 4-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate 13.79 13.51
12 13.224 Camphene 10.99 9.90
13 16.543 Anethole 0.90 0.61
14 20.145 Cyclamal 0.85 0.58
15 21.417 Isoamyl Salicylate 7.66 7.26
16 23.569 Amberlyn 0.43 0.06
17 23.910 Eugenol 1.78 1.52
18 24.436 Thymol 0.66 0.57
19 26.179 Hedione 1.88 0.91
20 27.826 Diethyl phthalate 2.40 16.39
21 28.409 Teralide 2.42 0.24
22 29.060 Coumarin 0.80 0.79
23 31.153 Beta Acetonaphthone 0.70 0.56
24 35.785 Ethylene Brassylate 1.17 0.56
25 36.135 Benzyl salicylate 3.64 2.07

The chromatographic profile of the compositions is correlated and was found to differ in the concentrations of some components. The green label components match with the concentration of the existing composition, while red label components are present in higher quantities which requires significant reduction; and blue label components are present in lower quantities which needs to be increased.

Further, a perfume intelligence map (Table 2) and an odor triangle (Figure 2) are created for the existing perfume composition, where the perfume components are categorized into top, middle and bottom notes.

Table 2: Perfume Intelligence Map of an Existing Perfume Composition
S.No. COMPOUND Odor Type % OF IDENTIFIED COMPONENTS
BY GC-MS PERFUME INTELLIGENCE MAP
TOP MIDDLE BOTTOM
1 D-Limonene Citrus 0.15 0.15
2 Eucalyptol Herbal 1.33 1.33
3 Rose Oxide Floral 0.24 0.24
4 3,5,5-Trimethylhexyl acetate Herbal 6.55 6.55
5 3,7-Dimethyl-1,6-octadiene Green 15.81 15.81
6 Camphor Camphoreous 0.52 0.52
7 Linalyl formate Herbal 7.8 7.8
8 Verdox Fruity 10.17 10.17
9 2-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate Fruity 1.76 1.76
10 3-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate Woody 5.6 5.60
11 4-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate Fruity 13.79 13.79
12 Camphene Woody 10.99 10.99
13 Anethole Licorice - spicy 0.9 0.9
14 Cyclamal Floral 0.85 0.85
15 Isoamyl Salicylate Floral 7.66 7.66
16 Amberlyn Amber 0.43 0.43
17 Eugenol Spicy 1.78 1.78
18 Thymol Herbal 0.66 0.66
19 Hedione Floral 1.88 1.88
20 Diethyl phthalate Odorless/Fixative 2.4 2.40
21 Teralide Musk 2.42 2.42
22 Coumarin Tonka 0.8 0.8
23 Beta Acetonaphthone Floral 0.7 0.7
24 Ethylene Brassylate Musk - Woody 1.17 1.17
25 Benzyl salicylate Balsamic 3.64 3.64
100 15.64 43.23 41.13

The perfume components of sample perfume composition are correlated and modified to match with the odor triangle and perfume intelligence map of the existing perfume composition.

The sample perfume composition is modified by increasing the concentrations of 3,5,5-Trimethylhexyl acetate from 4.77 to 6.55, Verdox from 8.77 to 10.17, Amberlyn from 0.06 to 0.43, Hedione from 0.91 to 1.88, Teralide from 0.24 to 2.42, Ethylene Brassylate from 0.56 to 1.17. Benzyl salicylate from 2.07 to 3.64; and reducing the concentration of Diethyl phthalate from 16.39 to 2.40. Table 3 provides the modified data of the perfume components as compared to the existing perfume composition.

Thus, a new perfume composition can be redesigned by directly mixing the perfume components in the desired concentration based on the perfume intelligence map.

Table 3: Comparative GC-MS of existing and sample composition after modification
Sr. no. Ret. time (min) Name of the compound Existing Composition Sample Composition
1 3.138 D-Limonene 0.15 0.18
2 3.263 Eucalyptol 1.33 1.21
3 4.918 Rose Oxide 0.24 0.16
4 5.568 3,5,5-Trimethylhexyl acetate 6.55 6.30
5 6.848 3 7-Dimethyl-1,6-octadiene 15.81 15.54
6 7.599 Camphor 0.52 0.62
7 8.780 Linalyl formate 7.80 6.66
8 9.034 Verdox 10.17 11.33
9 10.210 2-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate 1.76 2.13
10 11.352 3-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate 5.60 5.51
11 12.770 4-Tertbutyl cyclohexyl acetate 13.79 13.12
12 13.224 Camphene 10.99 10.04
13 16.543 Anethole 0.90 0.75
14 20.145 Cyclamal 0.85 0.75
15 21.417 Isoamyl Salicylate 7.66 7.33
16 23.569 Amberlyn 0.43 0.30
17 23.910 Eugenol 1.78 1.60
18 24.436 Thymol 0.66 0.73
19 26.179 Hedione 1.88 1.73
20 27.826 Diethyl phthalate 2.40 2.84
21 28.409 Teralide 2.42 2.98
22 29.060 Coumarin 0.80 0.77
23 31.153 Beta Acetonaphthone 0.70 0.56
24 35.785 Ethylene Brassylate 1.17 1.28
25 36.135 Benzyl salicylate 3.64 3.97

Figure 3 shows the olfactory evaluation and profile intensity evaluation of the sample perfume composition after modification of the perfume components based on perfume intelligence map and odor triangle. Figure 3 shows that the sample perfume composition is at par to the existing perfume sample in neat and immediate application and also matches the profile & intensity both.

Example 2: Determination of Perfumed Component in a scented talk by using Chromatography
Chromatographic Condition
Sample Preparation: Around 1.0 g sample was transferred into a 20ml HS-Crimp vial & Shield the vial with Crimper. Finally, the vial transferred to the HS sampler for analysis.

GC condition:
Column : ELITE-WAX-(Cat#N9316403); 30m x 0.25 mm ID; 0.25 µm df
Oven Profile : Initial temperature 70 ̊C hold for 1 minute. Ramp 5 ̊C /minute to 180 ̊C, hold for 2 minute, Ramp 10 ̊C /minute to 200 ̊C, and hold for
15 minute.
Carrier Gas : Helium
Flow rate : 1.00 ml/minute
Injection : Split (30:1) at 260 ̊C
Injection Volume: 20 µl

Headspace Condition:
Temperature Settings:
Oven Temperature (°C): 120-Timing 01 minute
Loop Temperature (°C): 130
Transfer Line Temperature (°C): 140

Timing Settings:
Vial Equilibration (min): 5.00
Injection Duration (min): 0.01
GC Cycle Time (min): 47.00

Mass Spectrometer Condition:
Model : SQ-8 C MS
Source : EI+
Electron energy: 70.0 eV
Inlet line temp. : 250°C
Source temp. : 250°C
Scan range : 25-500 a.m.u
Scan Time : 0.2 sec
Inter-scan delay: 0.01 sec
Solvent delay : 0-1.6 minute
Multiplier (V) : 2416

The GC-MS analysis of the perfume sample provided a detailed and accurate analysis of the ingredients of a perfume. Additionally, Head-space provided the composition of the perfume along with their concentrations.

ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides a method for providing a choice of perfume, which can be designed from a previously known perfume, and which needs to be redesigned as per the consumer’s demand.
, Claims:
1. A method of modifying the components of a sample perfume composition to provide the characteristic fragrance of an existing perfume composition comprising the steps of:

i. olfactive evaluation of a sample perfume composition,

ii. chromatographic profiling of the sample perfume composition by GC-MS to determine components of perfume composition,

iii. co-relating each and every component of the sample perfume composition with an existing perfume composition in a perfume intelligence map and odor triangle,

iv. modifying the perfume components at molecular level.

2. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the step (ii) chromatographic profiling of the sample perfume composition by GC-MS comprises

a. gas chromatography of a perfume sample at initial temperature 70 ̊C hold for 1 minute, Ramp 5 ̊C per minute to 180 ̊C, hold for 2 minute, Ramp 10 ̊C per minute to 200 ̊C, and hold for 15 minute; in presence of carrier gas, at a flow rate of 1.00 ml/minute, and injection split of 30:1 at 260 ̊C,

b. performing headspace analysis at oven temperature of 120oC for 01 minute, loop temperature at 130oC and transfer line temperature at 140°C; and

c. analysing the components in mass spectrometer at temperature 250oC.

3. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the perfume intelligence map is created to categorize the components of existing perfume composition in top, middle and bottom notes.

4. A perfume composition as obtained by the method as claimed in claim 1.