Hair shaping process using fatty substances, non-silicone polymers or surfactants
The present invention relates to the field of processes for treating keratin fibers,
preferably the hair.
BACKGROUND
Cosmetic treatments for long-lasting shaping of the hair are mainly
performed using chemical products.
Two techniques, both based on cleavage of the -S-S- disulfide bonds present
in keratin (cystine) are generally used for obtaining permanent reshaping of the hair.
The first technique includes a first step that consists in opening the disulfide
bonds using a composition comprising a reducing agent, for example of thioglycolic acid
type. This first reduction step is generally performed at a pH of between 8 and 9.
This first technique then involves, preferably after rinsing the hair, a
second step that consists in reconstituting the disulfide bonds by applying to the hair
an oxidizing composition known as a fixer. The hair may, prior to the application of
the reducing composition, be placed under tension by suitable devices such as
curlers, or be straightened out. The oxidation step may in particular be performed at a
pH of about 3 with hydrogen peroxide and may facilitate the formation of new
disulfide bridges enabling the head of hair to be held in the desired shape.
The second technique involves a step of lanthionization using a composition
comprising a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. The lanthionization step is
generally performed at a basic pH of about 13. Lanthionization is the conversion of the
disulfide bridges into monosulfide bridges. This type of treatment is mainly used for
shaping naturally frizzy hair.
In order to obtain satisfactory performance in terms of durability of shaping,
the compositions used in the treatments known in the prior art may comprise relatively
high concentrations of chemical active agents (for example reducing agents or hydroxide
compounds). Thus, thioglycolic acid may, for example, be used in certain compositions, at
mass concentrations of between 6% and 11%, and sodium hydroxide at 2%.
Products comprising thioglycolic acid have an unpleasant odor, which may be
present during the application and may also persist on the hair once the treatment has been
performed.

In addition, the treatments described above may lead to irreversible
degradation of the hair induced by changes in the intrinsic properties of the hair fiber.
These treatments may also irritate the scalp due to their relatively high
concentration of chemical active agents.
It is moreover known practice to supply heat during the treatment in order to
activate the processes. These techniques may effectively make it possible to improve the
cosmetic performance qualities, but always involve high concentrations of chemical
active agents and may thus have the same drawbacks as the treatments described above.
Documents WO 2002/051 281, US 2006/0 042 649, US 2004/0 250 830, WO
2002/100 210, US 2000/680 432, US 6 079 422, US 5 988 182, US 5 819 763, US 5 773
802, US 5 676 871, JP 09075125, JP 09051813, AU 9664467, US 5 494 598, EP 197 824,
US 4 710 609, US 4 743 726, US 4 952 360, US 5 030 820 and US 5 286 949 describe
objects, for example curlers, which may be heated in a household microwave oven and
used on wet hair for drying and hairsetting.
Patent US 3 958 340 describes a process for the rapid drying of wigs using air
heated by microwave radiation.
Patent application US 2007/0 056 960 describes a shaping tool for curling,
straightening and drying locks of wet hair using microwaves.
Patent DE 3148538 describes a cylindrical tool, protected with a wall, around
which a lock of hair is wound. The lock is dried and set using microwaves applied in the
space between the cylinder and the wall.
FR 2 178 049 discloses devices for releasing electromagnetic energy in various
materials.
Moreover, processes for heating and drying the hair using electromagnetic
radiation are known from FR 2 114 540 and FR 2 118 945.
Patent application FR 2 959 917 describes a hair treatment process in which a
mechanical tension is applied to the hair, which is then exposed to microwaves.
There is a need for novel processes, which are more efficient and less
aggressive, for permanently reshaping the hair.
There is especially interest in providing processes for obtaining improved
lasting shaping performance, while at the same time minimizing the impact of chemical
products on the hair and the scalp.

There is also a need to benefit from novel devices for lasting shaping of the
hair.
The present invention is directed toward meeting all or some of the
abovementioned needs.
According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic process
for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the steps consisting in:
a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one
substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants,
b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and
c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a
pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in
vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of
the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,
the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least
one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin
fibers,
step a) taking place prior to step c).
In the present text, the term "solvent" is used without preference to denote a
single solvent or a mixture of solvents.
The process according to the present invention may be performed in order to
lead to a durable shaping treatment that is less aggressive to the scalp and the hair. This is
because the process according to the invention dispenses with the use of compounds that
are aggressive to the scalp.
In addition, application to the hair of a composition containing at least one
substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants, preferably
prior to the application of a mechanical tension, in the presence of microwaves and of a
solvent in vapor form, makes it possible to obtain durable and improved shaping of the hair
without it being necessary to use reducing agents or alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal
hydroxides.

In particular, the process according to the invention may use in step a) a
composition containing at least one fatty substance or a composition containing at least one
non-silicone polymer or a composition containing at least one surfactant.
Thus, according to one embodiment, the present invention is directed toward a
cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the
steps consisting in:
a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one fatty
substance,
b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and
c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a
pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in
vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of
the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,
the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least
one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin
fibers,
step a) taking place prior to step c).
According to another embodiment, the present invention is directed toward a
cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the
steps consisting in:
a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one non-
silicone polymer,
b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and
c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a
pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in
vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of
the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,
the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least
one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin
fibers,
step a) taking place prior to step c).

According to yet another embodiment, the present invention is directed toward
a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair, comprising at least the
steps consisting in:
a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one
surfactant,
b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and
c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a
pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in
vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of
the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,
the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least
one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin
fibers,
step a) taking place prior to step c).
In one .particular variant of the invention, the process according to the ..
invention does not comprise a step of applying to the keratin fibers any composition(s)
comprising alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or reducing
agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.
The process according to the invention allows a production of the desired
shaping: curling or straightening. The effect is obtained durably for several weeks. When
the process according to the invention is performed for obtaining curling, the curling
obtained is uniform. A gain in the volume of the head of hair is also observed.
The terms "including a", "comprising a" and "containing a" should be
understood as meaning "including at least one", "comprising at least one" and "containing
at least one".
The term "at least one" is equivalent to the term "one or more".
The term "between" should be understood as being limits inclusive.
Step a)
The cosmetic hair treatment process according to the invention especially
includes a step a) comprising the application of a composition containing at least one
substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants.

Advantageously, the composition used in step a) is an aqueous composition,
i.e. a composition comprising at least 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of
the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises from 20% to 99.9% by weight of
water relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular, preferred embodiment of the invention, step a) is
prior to step b).
According to another particular embodiment of the invention, step b) is prior to
step a).
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the steps are performed in
the following order: step a), then step b) and then step c).
In one particular variant of the invention, the process according to the
invention does not comprise a step of applying to the keratin fibers any composition(s)
comprising alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or reducing
agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds. In this variant, the composition of step a) is free of
reducing agent(s) for cleaving the disulfide bonds.
For the purposes of the invention, the expression "reducing agent for cleaving
the disulfide bonds" means an agent chosen from thiols, alkali metal sulfites, phosphines
and hydrides.
Similarly, in this variant, the composition of step a) is free of alkali metal or
alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12.
The term "free of means a composition comprising less than 0.5% by weight
of the element under consideration, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition, and better still not containing any of the element under
consideration.
Fatty substances
According to a first embodiment variant of the invention, the composition of
step a) is a composition containing at least one fatty substance. According to this first
variant, the composition preferably comprises from 30% to 95% by weight of water
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, said composition comprises at least one fatty substance in a content

ranging from 0.1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular embodiment, said fatty substance(s) are present in
said composition in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight and preferably from 5%
to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is insoluble in
water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. which
has a solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially less
than 0.1%. They have in their structure at least one sequence of at least two siloxane
groups or a hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the
fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and
pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
In particular, the fatty substance(s) used in step a) are neither
(poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
More particularly, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons,
hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin,
plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic triglycerides, fiuoro oils, fatty alcohols, non-
salified fatty acids, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and plant
waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones, and mixtures thereof.
It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols, fatty
esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are
optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl
groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or
unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
Preferably, the fatty substance(s) used in step a) of the process according to the
present invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
As regards the C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear, branched or optionally
cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane,
dodecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be mentioned is
perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from
liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic
or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil,
soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for
instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin containing
more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly,
liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®.
The fluoro oils may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and
perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3
by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the
names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under
the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and
nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifluoromethyl
perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.
The fatty alcohols that may be used in the cosmetic composition of step a) are
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms
and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, among which mention may be made, for
example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol or
cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol,
oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
The non-salified fatty acids that may be used in the cosmetic composition of
step a) may be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon
atoms and in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are more particularly chosen from
myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid and isostearic acid.

These acids are not salified. This means that they are introduced in the form of
free acids and that the composition does not comprise any alkaline agent leading to their
salification.
The esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, advantageously different from
the triglycerides mentioned above, which may be used in the cosmetic composition used in
step a) are esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or
polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or
polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more particularly being greater than or
equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate;
octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl
lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl
octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl
laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate;
isostearyl palmitate; methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-
ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl
erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl
palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or
stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl
laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or
tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids
and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may be made in particular of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate;
diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl
maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl
monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol
dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl
citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate,
propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol
diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl,
myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl
myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl
stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl
isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
The composition used in step a) of the process according to the invention may
also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty
acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenous hydrocarbon-based compounds
that contain several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and
that comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides,
oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or
saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose,
xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl
derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group
comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated
carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from monoesters,
diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates,
behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or
. mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed
esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and in particular
mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate, -linoleate, -linolenate or
oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name
Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar of fatty acid that may also be
mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70 and SL40 by
the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmitostearates formed from 73%
monoester and 27% diester and triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and
tetraester, from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from 45%
monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39% monoester and 61% diester,
triester and tetraester, and sucrose monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced
B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-
triester-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-di-palmitostearate sold by the company Goldschmidt under
the name Tegosoft® PSE.
Use may also be made of esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohols. An example
that will be mentioned is the product sold under the name Crodamol MS-PA (MH) by the
company Croda.
The non-silicone wax(es) that may be used in the cosmetic composition used in
step a) are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax,
hydrocarbon waxes including paraffin wax, ozokerite and microcrystalline wax, plant
waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of
flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by the company Bertin
(France), animal waxes, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other
waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are especially
marine waxes such as the product sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82,
and polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general.
The silicones that may be used in step a) in accordance with the invention may
be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Preferably, the silicone(s) are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular
polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least
one functional group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry
and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those
with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to
5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular
under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by
Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by
Union Carbide, and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxanes/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by
the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with
organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and
having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0"6 m2/s at 25°C. An example is
decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray
Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in
Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone
Fluids for Cosmetics.
Use is preferably made of nonvolatile polydialkylsiloxanes,
polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the
organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among
which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end
groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM
445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting
manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by
Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200
with a viscosity of 60 000 mmVs;
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF
96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol
end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series
from the company Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the
products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt,
which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.
The silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the invention are
especially polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-
average molecular weights of between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture
in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane
(PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes,
methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention
are mixtures such as:
- the mixtures formed from a hydroxy-terminated polydimethylsiloxane or
dimethiconol (CTFA) chain, and from a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as
cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning;
- mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone, such as the
product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric; this product is an SF
30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of
500 000, dissolved in the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more particularly of a
PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General
Electric. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity
of 20 m2/s and of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5× 10-6 m2/s. This product preferably
comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the
invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the following units:
R2Si02/2, R3Si01/2, RSi03/2 and Si04/2
in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Particularly
preferred among these products are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group,
more particularly methyl.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold under the name
Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by
the company General Electric, which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in
particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that may be used in step a) are silicones as
defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups
attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular
polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the
organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and/or branched
polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity
of from 1 × 10-5 to 5 × 10-2 mVs at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be mentioned include
the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products
PN1000andPH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154,
SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Mention may also be made, among the organomodified silicones, of
polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products sold under
the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold
under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning.
The substituted amino groups are in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone
Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company
Goldschmidt.
Preferably, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition according to the
invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
In one variant of the invention, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from
compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric
pressure.
In this variant, preferably, the fatty substance(s) are compounds that are liquid
at room temperature (25 °C) and at atmospheric pressure.
Even more preferentially, in this variant, the fatty substance(s) used in the
composition used in step a) according to the invention are liquid and non-silicone at a
temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
Still in this variant, the fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen from C6-
C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, fatty
alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, or mixtures
thereof.
Preferably, in this variant, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid
petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of
fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

In another variant of the invention, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from
compounds that are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
In this variant, the fatty substance(s) are advantageously chosen from
hydrocarbon waxes, plant waxes, solid fatty alcohols and solid esters of fatty acids and/or
of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.
Non-silicone polymers
According to a second embodiment variant of the invention, the composition of
step a) is a composition containing at least one non-silicone polymer.
According to this second variant, the composition preferably comprises from
25% to 95% by weight of water and in particular from 30% to 90% by weight of water
relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, said composition comprises at least one non-silicone polymer in a
content ranging from 0.01% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
According to a particular embodiment, said non-silicone polymer(s) are present
in said composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight and preferably from
1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purposes of the invention, the non-silicone polymer(s) used in step a)
may be chosen from thickening, fixing or conditioning polymers.
The term "thickening polymer" means a polymer which, when introduced at
1% by weight into a composition not containing it, makes it possible to increase the
viscosity thereof by at least 100 cps and preferably at least 500 cps, at 25°C and at a shear
rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600
rheometer or the like).
Preferably, use will be made of a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by
weight in an aqueous solution or an aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% ethanol,
and at pH 7, or in an oil chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate or
cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps and
preferably of at least 500 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity may be
measured using a cone/plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

The thickening polymers may thicken the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase,
preferentially the aqueous phase.
The thickening polymer(s) used in step a) may be chosen from cellulose-based
thickeners, especially hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or
carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and derivatives thereof, especially hydroxypropyl guar,
gums of microbial origin, especially xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum, crosslinked acrylic
acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, and associative polymers.
A hydroxypropyl guar that will be mentioned, for example, is the product sold
by the company Rhodia under the trade name Jaguar HP 105.
As regards the associative thickeners, one or more polymers of nonionic or
ionic nature may be used. Preferably, the associative thickeners are nonionic, anionic or
cationic.
The chemical structure of the associative polymers (or amphiphilic polymers)
more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic
region. The term "hydrophobic group" means a radical or polymer with a saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon
atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms
and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional
compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty
alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a
hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
Among the anionic amphiphilic thickening polymers comprising at least one
fatty chain (hydrophobic) used in step a), mention may be made of:
(I) polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-
chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit is formed by an
unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, advantageously by a vinylcarboxylic acid and
most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose
fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (A) below:
CH2 = C R' CH2 O Bn R (A)
in which R' denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethylenoxy radical, n is zero or
denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen

from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
The unit of formula (A) that is more particularly preferred is a unit in which R' denotes H,
n is equal to 10, and R denotes a stearyl radical (C18).
Among these fatty-chain anionic polymers, those that are preferred are
polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, 5%
to 60% by weight of lower alkyl (meth)acrylates, 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl
ether of formula (A), and 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent that is a well-known
copolymerizable polyethylenically unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate,
allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or
methylenebisacrylamide.
Among the latter polymers, the ones that are most particularly preferred are
crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (10
EO) stearyl ether (Steareth 10), especially those sold by the company Allied Colloids under
the names Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90, which are aqueous emulsions containing 30%
of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl
ether (40/50/10).
(II) polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic
carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30)
alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.
These polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit
of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (B)
below:
in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or
ethacrylic acid units, and whose hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl
ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (C) below:


in which R2 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or
ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH3 (methacrylate units), R3
denoting a C10-C30 and preferably C12-C22 alkyl radical.
The (C10-C30)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids are, for example,
lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and
the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl
methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.
Among the fatty-chain anionic polymers of this type, the ones that will be used
more particularly are polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:
(i) essentially acrylic acid,
(ii) an ester of formula (C) described above and in which R2 denotes H or
CH3, R3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms,
(iii) and a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable
polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, for instance diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate,
divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
Among the fatty-chain anionic polymers of this type, use will be made more
particularly of those formed from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit),
4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6% by weight
of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those formed from 98% to 96%
by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate
(hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer
such as those described previously.
Among said polymers above, the ones most particularly preferred according to
the present invention are the carbomer product sold by the company Lubrizol under the
name Carbopol Ultrez 10, and also the products sold by the company Goodrich under the
trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, and even more preferentially
Pemulen TR1, and the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Coatex SX.
(III) maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the
product (maleic anhydride/C30-C38 α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the
name Performa V 1608 by the company Newphase Technologies.
(IV) acrylic terpolymers comprising:

(a) 20% to 70% by weight of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic
acid,
(b) 20% to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant α,β-monoethylenically
unsaturated monomer other than (a),
(c) 0.5% to 60% by weight of a nonionic monourethane, which is the product
of reaction of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated
monoisocyanate,
such as those described in patent application EP-A-0 173 109 and more
particularly a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl
isocyanate terpolymer of ethoxylated (40 EO) behenyl alcohol as an aqueous 25%
dispersion.
-(V) copolymers comprising among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically
unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an a,P-monoethylenically unsaturated
carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated (C8-C30) fatty alcohol.
Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,β-
monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.
An example of a compound of this type that may be mentioned is Aculyn 22
sold by the company Rohm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl
acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer.
The fatty-chain (hydrophobic) nonionic amphiphilic thickening polymer(s)
used in step a) are preferably chosen from:
(1) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain,
especially such as:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty
chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the
alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS
(C16 alkyl) sold by the company Aqualon, or the product Bermocoll EHM 100 sold by the
company Berol Nobel,
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol
ether groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene
glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol,

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty
chain, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company Lamberti,
and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by the
company Rhone-Poulenc,
(3) chemically modified or unmodified starches, in particular distarch
phosphates and carboxymethylstarch,
(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers,
with, for example:
- the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene
copolymer) sold by the company ISP,
- the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene
copolymer) sold by the company ISP,
(5) copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic
monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl
acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by the company Goldschmidt under the name
Antil 208,
(6) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic
monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol
methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer,
(7) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty
chain, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by Siid-Chemie,
(8) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks
usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic
sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-
based fatty chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block,
the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the
hydrophilic block.
As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used
in step a) of the invention, use may be made of Rheolate 205 containing a urea function,
sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184,
Aculyn or Acrysol 44 and Aculyn or Acrysol 46 from the company Rohm & Haas [Aculyn

46 is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene
oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by
weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); Aculyn 44 is a polycondensate
of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and
of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of
propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210 containing a C12-C14
alkyl chain and the product Elfacos T212 containing a CI8 alkyl chain, from Akzo, and
also the product DW 1206B from Rohm & Haas, containing a C20 alkyl chain and a
urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water.
Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially
in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be
mentioned are Rheolate 255, Rheolate 278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox.
Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by the company
Rohm & Haas.
The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in
particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid
Polym. Sci., 271, 380-389 (1993).
The cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain
(hydrophobic) used in step a) may especially be chosen from quaternized cellulose
derivatives, cationic polyurethanes and cationic polyvinyllactams, and preferably from
quaternized cellulose derivatives.
As examples of polymers of this type, mention may be made in particular of:
- quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty
chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or
mixtures thereof,
- quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least
one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon
atoms, or mixtures thereof.
The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or
hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals
preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty
chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-
X529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X529-8 (C18 alkyl)
sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl)
and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
All the anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic fixing polymers and
mixtures thereof used in the art may be used in the composition of step a) according to the
present application.
The term "fixing polymer" means any polymer that is capable of giving a shape
to a head of hair or of holding a head of hair in a given shape.
The fixing polymers may be soluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium or
insoluble in this same medium and used in this case in the form of dispersions of solid or
liquid particles of polymer (latex or pseudolatex).
The anionic fixing polymer(s) generally used are polymers comprising groups
derived from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid or phosphoric acid and have a number-average
molecular mass of between approximately 500 and 5 000 000.
The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid
monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (I):

in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, A1 denotes a methylene group optionally
joined to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group
when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen
atom or a phenyl or benzyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl
group, and R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, or a -CH2-COOH, phenyl or
benzyl group.
In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group
having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymers comprising carboxylic groups which are preferred
according to the invention are:
A) copolymers of acrylic or methacryclic acid or salts thereof, and of
acrylamide, sold in the form of their sodium salts under the names Reten 421, 423 or 425
by the company Hercules;
B) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer
such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally
grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked.
Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German patent
application 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated
and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described in particular in
Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 or sold under the name Quadramer by
the company American Cyanamid. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic
acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid
and of methacrylate of C1-C20 alkyl, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as the product
sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM and methacrylic acid/ethyl
acrylate/tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Luvimer®
100 P by the company BASF;
Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl
acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers as an aqueous dispersion, sold under the name
Amerhold® DR 25 by the company Amerchol;
C) crotonic acid copolymers, such as those comprising vinyl acetate or
propionate units in their chain and optionally other monomers such as allyl esters or
methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid
with a long hydrocarbon-based chain, such as those containing at least 5 carbon atoms, it
being possible for these polymers optionally to be grafted or crosslinked, or alternatively
another vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester monomer of an a- or (3-cyclic carboxylic acid. Such
polymers are described, inter alia, in French patent Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782,
2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. Commercial products coming within this category are
the resins 28-29-30, 26-13-14 and 28-13-10 sold by National Starch;
D) Copolymers of C4-C8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides
chosen from:

- copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or
anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl
halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of
these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated. Such polymers are
described, in particular, in US patent Nos. 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 113, and GB
patent No. 839 805. Commercial products are in particular those sold under the names
Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP;
- copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic
anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters,
optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin, acrylic or
methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain,
- the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified
or monoamidated.
These polymers are described, for example, in the Applicant's French patents
2 350 384 and 2 357 241.
E) Polyacrylamides comprising carboxylate groups.
The homopolymers and copolymers comprising sulfonic groups are polymers
comprising vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic
units.
These polymers may especially be selected from:
- polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between 1000 and 100
000 approximately, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as
acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof,
vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
- salts of polystyrenesulfonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example,
under the names Flexan® 500 and Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are
described in patent FR 2 198 719;
- polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts, such as those mentioned in patent US 4
128 631 and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the
name Cosmedia Polymer HSP 1180 by Henkel.

Mention may be made, as other anionic fixing polymer which can be used
according to the invention, of the branched block anionic polymer sold under the name
Fixate G-100 by Noveon.
According to the invention, the anionic fixing polymer(s) used in step a) are
preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-
tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name Ultrahold® Strong by
the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl
tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl
neododecanoate terpolymers sold especially under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the
company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or
anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and
acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic
anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez® by the company ISP,
the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name
Eudragit® L by the company Rohm Pharma, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of
ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the
vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company
BASF, the vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold
under the name Aristoflex® A by the company BASF, and the polymer sold under the
name Fixate G-100 by the company Noveon.
Among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, it is more particularly
preferred in the context of the present invention to use the methyl vinyl
ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425
by the company ISP, the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers
sold under the name Ultrahold® Strong by the company BASF, the copolymers of
methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name Eudragit® L by the
company Rohm Pharma, the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid
terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold
under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of
methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by
the company BASF, the vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid/lauryl methacrylate terpolymers sold

under the name Acrylidone® LM by the company ISP and the polymer sold under the
name Fixate G-100 by the company Noveon.
The cationic fixing film-forming polymer(s) that may be used in step a) are
preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary
amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly connected to the latter, and
having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5 000 000 and preferably
between 1000 and 3 000 000.
Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the
following cationic polymers:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters
or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:

R.3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a
hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group
having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;
Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom
or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide, such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) also contain one or more units derived from
comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides,
diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with
lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters
thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Thus, among these copolymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate
quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under
the name Hercofloc® by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride, described for example in patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the
name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate
or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® by the
company ISP, for instance Gafquat® 734 or Gafquat® 755, or alternatively the products
known as Copolymer® 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French
patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
and
quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat® HS 100 by the company
ISP.
(2) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;
(3) chitosans or salts thereof; the salts which can be used are more
particularly the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidone carboxylate of
chitosan.
These compounds include the chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of
90.5% by weight which is sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber
Technologies, and the chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate which is sold under the name
Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly
the products sold under the name Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company
National Starch.

The amphoteric fixing polymer(s) that may be used in step a) in accordance
with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed
statistically in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer
comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acid
monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C
may denote groups derived from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers;
B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary,
secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups
carries a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or alternatively
B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an α,β-dicarboxylic ethylene unit in
which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising
one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
The more particularly preferred amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to
the definition given above are chosen from the following polymers:
(1) copolymers containing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units, such as
those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound
bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
maleic acid, a-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl
compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl
methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such
compounds are described in patent US 3 836 537.
(2) Polymers comprising units derived from:
a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and
methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group,
b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive
carboxylic groups, and
c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary,
secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and
the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl
sulfate.
The more particularly preferred N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides
according to the invention are the compounds in which the alkyl groups comprise from 2 to

12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-
octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the
corresponding methacrylamides.
The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic,
methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic or fumaric acid and also the monoesters of alkyl
having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acid or anhydride.
The preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N'-
dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
The copolymer whose CTFA (4th edition, 1991) name is
octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products
sold under the name Amphomer® or Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch, is
particularly used.
(3) Partially or totally acylated and crosslinked polyaminoamides derived
from polyaminoamides of general formula:

in which R10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic
acid, a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid containing an ethylenic double bond, an ester
of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or a group derived from the
addition of any one of said acids to a bis(primary) or bis(secondary) amine, and Z denotes
a group derived from a bis(primary), mono- or bis(secondary) polyalkylene-polyamine and
preferably represents:
a) in proportions of from 60 to 100 mol%, the group:

where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or alternatively x = 3 and p = 2
this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetramine or
from dipropylenetriamine;
b) in proportions of from 0 to 40 mol%, the group (III) above in which x = 2
and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from
piperazine:


c) in proportions of from 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH-(CH2)6-NH- group derived
from hexamethylenediamine,
these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional
crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides or bisunsaturated
derivatives, by means of from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of
the polyaminoamide, and acylated by reaction with acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an
alkane sultone or their salts.
The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10
carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid and 2,4,4-trimethyladipic
acid, terephthalic acid, and acids containing an ethylenic double bond such as, for example,
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid.
The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane
sultone and the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
(4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula:

in which R11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate,
methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer from 1 to
3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14 and R15
represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14
and R15 does not exceed 10.
The polymers comprising such units can also comprise units derived from non-
zwitterionic monomers, such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or
alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.
Mention may be made, by way of example, of methyl methacrylate/methyl
dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold
under the name Diaformer Z301 by Sandoz.
(5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomer units
corresponding to the following formulae:


the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in
proportions of between 5% and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30% and
90%, it being understood that, in this unit (F), R16 represents a group of formula:

in which, if q = 0, R17, R18 and R19, which may be identical or different, each
represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a
monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted with one
or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl,
carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, or an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group
bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, R18 and R19 being, in this case, a
hydrogen atom;
or, if q = 1, R17, R18 and R19 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts
formed by these compounds with bases or acids;
(6) polymers comprising units corresponding to general formula (V) are
described, for example, in French patent 1 400 366:


in which R20 represents a hydrogen atom, a CH30, CH3CH20 or phenyl group,
R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R22 denotes a
hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, R23 denotes a C1-C6
lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-
N(R22)2, R24 representing a group -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2- or -CH2-CH(CH3)-, R22
having the meanings mentioned above;
(7) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-
(carboxymethyl)chitosan or N-(carboxybutyl)chitosan, which are sold under the "Evalsan"
name by Jan Dekker.
(8) Amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X- type chosen from:
a) polymers obtained by reaction of chloroacetic acid or sodium
chloroacetate with compounds comprising at least one unit of formula:
-D-X-D-X-D- (VI)
where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E', E or E', which are identical or different,
denoting a divalent group which is a straight- or branched-chain alkylene group comprising
up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain which is unsubstituted or substituted by hydroxyl
groups and which can additionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms or from 1
to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being
present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or
alkenylamine groups or hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium,
amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups,
b) polymers of formula:
-D-X-D-X- (VI')
where D denotes a group

and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E'; E having the meaning
given above and E' is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched

chain having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted
with one or more hydroxyl groups and containing one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen
atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom
and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl
functions and betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate;
(9) (C1-C5)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified
by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N,N-
dimethylaminopropylamine or by semiesterification with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkanol.
These copolymers can also comprise other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam.
Among the amphoteric fixing polymers described above, the ones that are most
particularly used in step a) according to the invention are those of family (3), such as the
copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate
copolymer, such as the products sold under the name Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71 or
Lovocryl® 47 by the company National Starch and those of family (4) such as the
copolymers of methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl
methacrylate, sold, for example, under the name Diaformer Z301 by the company Sandoz.
The nonionic fixing polymer(s) that may be used in step a) according to the
present invention are chosen, for example, from:
- polyalkyloxazolines;
- vinyl acetate homopolymers;
- vinyl acetate copolymers, for instance copolymers of vinyl acetate and of
acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate
and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate;
- acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers, for instance copolymers of alkyl
acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates, such as the products sold by the company Rohm &
Haas under the names Primal® AC-261 K and Eudragit® NE 30 D, by BASF under the
name 8845, or by the company Hoechst under the name Appretan® N9212;
- copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example,
from butadiene and alkyl (meth)acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under
the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm & Haas;
- styrene homopolymers;

- styrene copolymers, for instance copolymers of styrene and of alkyl
(meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and
Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas® SD
215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc; copolymers of styrene,
of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or
copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine;
- polyamides;
- vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and such
as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF;
and
-vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam)
copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF,
poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name
PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28
by the company BASF; and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate)
terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol® YAP 343 by the
company BASF.
The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably contain
from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Use may also be made in step a), as fixing polymers, of functionalized or non-
functionalized, cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, or mixtures
thereof.
The polyurethanes that are particularly targeted by the present invention are
those described in patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2
743 297, of which the Applicant Company is the proprietor, and in patent applications EP 0
656 021 and WO 94/03510 from the company BASF and EP 0 619 111 from the company
National Starch.
As polyurethanes that are particularly suitable in the present invention, mention
may be made of the products sold under the name Luviset PUR® by the company BASF.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "conditioning polymer"
means a polymer that is capable of giving keratin fibers and in particular the hair an

improvement of at least one of the following properties: softness of feel, straightening
effect, ease of disentangling.
Preferably, the conditioning polymer(s) are cationic polymer(s) or amphoteric
. polymer(s), especially Polyquaternium-22.
Preferably, the conditioning polymer(s) are chosen from:
(1) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium salts,
such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units
corresponding to formula (VII) or (VIII):

in which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k +1 being equal to 1; R12 denotes
a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote an
alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl
group has preferably 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower (C1-C4) amidoalkyl group, or R10 and
R11 may denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic
groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride,
acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers
are especially described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition
2 190 406.

R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly
of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100
by the company Nalco and its homologues of low weight-average molecular weights, and
the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the
name Merquat 550.
(2) quaternary diammonium polymers especially containing repeating units
corresponding to formula (IX):

in which:
R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic,
alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower
hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately,
constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally
containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R16
represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or
amide group or a group CO-O-R17-D or CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a
quaternary ammonium group,
A1 and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon
atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain,
linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more
oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl,
quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid,
A1, R13 and R]5 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are
attached, a piperazine ring. In addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or

unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bl may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-
D-OC-(CH2)p-,
n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20 approximately,
in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched
hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-O)x -CH2-CH2-,
-[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)-,
in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and
unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree
of polymerization,
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative,
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a
linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-
CH2-CH2-,
d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X" is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers generally have a number-average molecular weight of between
1000 and 100 000.
Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents 2 320 330,
2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853,
2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432, 3 929 990,
3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and 4 027 020.
Use may more particularly be made of polymers that are formed from repeating
units corresponding to formula (X):

in which R18, R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, denote an alkyl
or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, r and s are integers

ranging from 2 to 20 approximately, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic
acid.
A compound of formula (X) that is particularly preferred is the one for which
R18, R19, R20 and R21 represent a methyl radical and r = 3, s = 6 and X = Cl, which is
known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
The quaternary diammonium polymers may also consist of units of formula
(XI):

in which:
R22, R23, R24 and R25, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or
CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH group,
in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that
R22, R23, R24 and R25 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
t and u, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
v is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
X" denotes an anion such as a halide,
A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-
CH2-.
Such compounds are described especially in patent application EP-A-122 324.
Among these, mention may be made, for example, of the products Mirapol®
A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175, sold by the company
Miranol.
(3) Cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan
gums.
For celluloses, mention may be made of copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose
derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium,
and disclosed especially in US patent 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for

example hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular
with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium,
methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylarnmonium salt.
The products sold corresponding to this definition are, more particularly, the
products sold under the names Celquat L 200, Celquat LOR and Celquat H 100 by the
company Akzo Nobel (Polyquaternium-4). Mention may also be made of the product sold
under the name Merquat 280 (Polyquaternium-22) by the company Lubrizol.
Surfactants
According to a third embodiment variant of the invention, the composition of
step a) is a composition containing at least one surfactant.
According to this third variant, the composition preferably comprises from
30% to 70% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, said composition comprises at least one surfactant in a content
ranging from 0.01% to 95%, preferably from 0.1% to 60% and better still from 1% to 50%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purposes of the invention, the surfactant(s) used in step a) may be
chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and amphoteric
or zwitterionic surfactants.
The surfactant(s) in accordance with the invention may be silicone or non-
silicone surfactants.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or
ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from
the following groups: -C(O)OH, -C(O)O-, -SO3H, -S(O)2O-, -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O-,
-P(O)OH2, -P(O)2O-, -P(O)O2-, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH, =PO-;
the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as those of an alkali metal, an
alkaline-earth metal or an ammonium.
As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in step a) according to the
invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether
sulfates, alky larylpoly ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates,
alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates,

alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates,
alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates,
acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-
polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactoside-uronic acid salts, alkyl ether carboxylic
acid salts, alkylaryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkylamido ether carboxylic acid salts, and
the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyl and acyl groups of
all these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a
phenyl group.
These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1
to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl ether monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic
acids can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-
tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali
metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium
salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as
the magnesium salts.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine,
diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol salts, 2-
amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol salts andtris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or
magnesium salts, are preferably used.
Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, it is preferred to use (C6-C24)alkyl
sulfates, (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units,
especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal
salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
In particular, it is preferred to use (C12-C20)alkyl sulfates, (C12-C20)alkyl ether
sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali
metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these
compounds. Better still, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol
of ethylene oxide.

Examples of nonionic surfactants that may be used in step a) according to the
invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter,
published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). They are
especially chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (C1-C20)alkylphenols, these compounds being
polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one
fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, it being possible for the
number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to especially range from 1 to 200,
and for the number of glycerol groups to especially range from 1 to 30.
Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene
oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters,
polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl polyglycosides, alkyl
glucoside esters, mono- or dialkanolamides, derivatives of N-alkyl glucamine and of N-
acyl methylglucamine, aldobionamides, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones
and amine oxides.
The nonionic surfactant(s) used in step a) are more particularly chosen from
monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated
nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or
oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned
include:
- oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols,
especially such as Deceth-3 or Deceth-5,
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of
polyethylene glycols,
- polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-
C30 acids and of sorbitol,
- saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils,
- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or
as mixtures,

- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.
The surfactant(s) bear a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene
oxide preferably ranging from 1 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50. Advantageously, the
nonionic surfactant(s) do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the nonionic
surfactant(s) used in step a) are chosen from oxyethylenated C8-C30 alcohols and
polyoxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and
of sorbitol.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants,
monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used in step a).
In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols
correspond to formula (Al) below:
RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]m-H (Al)
in which R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or
alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to
10.
As examples of compounds that are suitable for use in step a) in the context of
the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI
name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl
alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl
alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl
alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol,
oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of
glycerol.
The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value
of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several
species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is more
particularly preferred to use the C8/C10 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10/C12
alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen from oxyethylenated or non-
oxyethylenated alkanolamides and oxyethylenated fatty alcohols.
The cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in step a) comprise, for example,
optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary
ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may especially be mentioned
include:
- those corresponding to the general formula (A2) below:

in which formula (A2):
R8 to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched
aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or
alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups R8 to R11 comprises from 8 to
30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and
X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen
from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-
C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 may also comprise heteroatoms especially
such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups of R8 to R11 are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl or
alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-
C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12-C22)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups; X" is
an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl
sulfates, and (C1-C4)alkylsulfonates or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A2), preference is given
firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or
alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from
12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylarnmonium chloride,
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride,

benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly,
distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate,
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or
distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly,
palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl
acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula
(A3) below:

in which formula (A3):
R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,
for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow;
R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl
group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group;
R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group;
X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen
from halides, acetates, phosphates, lactates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-
C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising
from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a
methyl group and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under
the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
- quaternary diammonium or triammonium salts, in particular of formula (A4)
below:


in which formula (A4):
R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon
atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen
atoms;
R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon
atoms or a group -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), X';
R16a, R17a, R18a, R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, are
chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and
X", which may be identical or different, represents an organic or mineral
anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-
C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4) alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate
and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, provided by the company
Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, provided by the company Finetex (Quaternium
75);
- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as
those of formula (A5) below:

in which formula (A5):
R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or
dihydroxyalkyl groups,
R23 is chosen from:

- saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups
R27,
- a hydrogen atom,
R25 is chosen from:


- saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C1-C6 hydrocarbon groups R29,
- a hydrogen atom,
R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups;
r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, with
r2+rl=2r and tl+t2=2t,
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
x and z, which are identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to
10,
X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion,
with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then
R23 denotes R27, and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group
and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is an R27 hydrocarbon group, it may be long and have from 12 to 22
carbon atoms or be short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is an R29 hydrocarbon-based group, it preferably contains 1 to 3
carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen
from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups and more
particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl
groups.
Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, have values of 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3,
and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X" is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or
iodide; a (C1-C4)alkyl sulfate or a (C1-C4)alkyl- or a (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonate. However, it
is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an
organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the
ammonium containing an ester function.
The anionic counterion X" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or
ethyl sulfate.
Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of
the ammonium salts of formula (A5) in which:
- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,
- x and y are equal to 1,
- z is equal to 0 or 1,
- r, s and t are equal to 2,
- R23 is chosen from:

methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,
a hydrogen atom,
- R25 is chosen from:

a hydrogen atom,
- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from
linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
Among the compounds of formula (A5), examples that may be mentioned
include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of
diacyloxyethyldimethy lammonium, diacyloxyethy lhydroxyethy Imethy lammon ium,
monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammoniurn or
monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups
preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant

oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups,
the latter can be identical or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of
triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an
alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with
fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters
thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent
such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably
dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol
chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the
company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company
Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a
mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight
majority of diester salts.
Use may also be made of the ammonium salts comprising at least one ester
functional group described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold
by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain
two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition
according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose
cetyltrimethylamrnonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more
particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylamrnonium chloride and
dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) used in step a) are preferably non-
silicone surfactants. They may especially be aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine
derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing 8 to 22

carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group, for instance a
carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group; mention may also be
made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylbetaines or
(C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines; and mixtures thereof.
Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine
derivatives that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of
respective structures (A6) and (A7) below:
Ra-C(O)-NH-CH2-CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2C(O)O-, M+, X- (A6)
in which formula (A6):
Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH
preferably present in hydrolyzed copra oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
Rb represents a P-hydroxyethyl group; and
Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth
metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,
and
X- represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from
halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (Cr
C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively
M+ and X" are absent;
Ra-C(O)-NH-CH2-CH2-N(B)(B') (A7)
in which formula (A7):
B represents the group -CH2-CH2-O-X';
B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;
X' represents the group -CH2-C(O)OH, -CH2-C(O)OZ\ -CH2-CH2-C(O)OH or
-CH2-CH2-C(O)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;
Y' represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ', -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group
-CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z';
Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth
metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
Ra- represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid

Ra--C(O)OH, which is preferably present in copra oil or in hydrolyzed linseed
oil, an alkyl group, especially a C17 group and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17
group.
These compounds of formulae (A6) and (A7) are classified in the CTFA
dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium
lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate,
disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium
caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic
acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by
the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (A'2):
Ra" -NH-CH(Y")-(CH2)n-C(O)-NH-(CH2)n -N(R(Re)) (A'2)
in which formula:
Y" represents the group -C(O)0H, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the
group -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z";
Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl or
hydroxyalkyl radical;
Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-
earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an
organic amine;
Ra" represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid
Ra'-C(O)OH, which is preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or copra oil.
n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Among the compounds of formula (A'2), mention may be made of the
compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium
diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under
the name Chimexane HB.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is
preferably made of (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-
C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, compounds of formula (B'2) such as the

sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium
diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide), and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the surfactant(s) may be chosen from nonionic surfactants,
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants and cationic surfactants, which may be silicone or
non-silicone surfactants.
Steps b) and c)
The cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers according to the invention
especially comprises steps b) and c) consisting, respectively, in applying a mechanical
tension to these keratin fibers and in exposing them under mechanical tension to
microwaves at a pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa and better still from 75 000 to
150 000 Pa, better still at atmospheric pressure in the presence of at least one solvent in
vapor form on contact with said keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of
the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves.
In the event of complete drying in step c), no shaping is obtained.
Consequently, especially when steps a), b) and c) are performed in this order, a
step consisting in applying again a certain amount of the composition from step a) or a
certain amount of solvent may be performed just before step c) (in order to ensure that the
keratin fibers are kept moist).
It is understood that when such a step of applying a composition from step a) is
again performed before step c), said composition contains the same substance as that which
had been applied during step a), i.e.:
- it contains at least one fatty substance when the composition from step a)
contains at least one fatty substance,
- it contains at least one non-silicone polymer when the composition from step
a) contains at least one non-silicone polymer, and
- it contains at least one surfactant when the composition from step a) contains
at least one surfactant.
During step b), the microwave radiation may or may not already exist, and this
is likewise the case for the solvent in vapor form. In other words, step b) is prior to or
simultaneous with step c).

The expression "mechanical tension applied to the hair" should be understood
as meaning a mechanical tension applied to at least a portion of the length of said hair.
The term "microwaves" should be understood as meaning electromagnetic
radiation with a frequency of between 500 MHz and 300 GHz.
The microwave frequency used in step c) is preferentially between 500 MHz
and 300 GHz, for example ranging from 500 MHz to 10 GHz and in particular from 915
MHz to 2.45 GHz.
The microwave power used in step c) may range from 100 to 2000 W,
preferably from 100 to 500 W and more particularly from 180 to 450 W.
The microwaves may be generated by a microwave generator, for example a
solid-state generator such as a magnetron.
The expression "without there being complete drying of the hair" means that
after step c) the hair feels wet. The hair may thus conserve at least 1%, especially at least
2% or even 5% of the weight of the liquid compounds (solvents) present, before step c), on
contact therewith, these liquid compounds adding to the natural humidity of the hair before
treatment.
The mechanical tension may be applied by means of a device for applying a
mechanical tension, this device possibly being configured to induce flexure, traction,
torsion and/or compression, for example, on the hair. The device for applying a mechanical
tension may exert mechanical constraints simultaneously on one or more locks of hair.
The mechanical tension device may be, for example, a curler.
The solvent in vapor form is entirely generated by evaporating a compound
present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the treated hair.
The treated hair should never be totally dry throughout the entire action of the
microwaves. In other words, the hair should always be impregnated with the solvent during
said exposure.
To facilitate the impregnation, the solvent may be sprayed on beforehand.
Step c) of the process according to the invention may take place in a chamber
optionally along with step b); in addition, steps b) and c) may be performed in one and the
same chamber. The chamber may form a microwave shield.
The chamber may, during the process according to the invention, especially
during step c), contain the hair to be treated and the device for applying a mechanical

tension.
The term "contain the hair" should be understood as meaning contain the hair
over all or part of its length.
The chamber may cover the hair over a length, for example, of greater than or
equal to 5 cm. Thus, a length of at least 5 cm of hair may be treated in the chamber.
The chamber may be immobile relative to the hair treated during the emission
of the microwaves or mobile relative to the hair, for example being moved along the hair to
be treated.
The microwaves may be emitted, where appropriate, from an antenna.
As indicated previously, the chamber may be configured so as not to release
into the external medium the solvent in vapor form, or so as to release only a small amount
thereof, for example by means of recycling of the solvent, the recycling taking place, for
example, in vapor or liquid form, after condensation of the solvent.
The chamber may comprise a material configured to absorb the solvent in
vapor form. The chamber may comprise a cold wall on which the solvent condenses and/or
a loop for sucking up solvent in vapor form.
Thus, the process according to the invention may comprise, during and/or
after step c), a step of collecting solvent, for example in vapor and/or liquid form
and/or absorbed on a material.
The chamber is advantageously substantially microwave-leaktight. In other
words, the chamber may be configured to contain the microwaves emitted. Step c) may
thus take place in a chamber that is microwave-leaktight.
The chamber may comprise at least one seal of an electrically conductive
material, which is, for example, elastically deformable, making it possible to block the
microwaves used during step c) while allowing the hair to leave the chamber, if necessary.
The seal may comprise, for example, a foam filled with electrically conductive particles, a
brush formed from electrically conductive bristles or a comb comprising metal teeth.
When the chamber is in the form of a hood, the chamber may comprise
electromagnetic shielding through which the treated hair may pass. Such shielding makes it
possible to treat the user's hair while protecting the user's skull from the microwaves
emitted.

The electromagnetic shielding may be formed, for example, by a grate or a
metallic grating.
The treatment device for performing the process may comprise an audible
and/or visible warning system, for example for warning the user of a microwave leak out
of the chamber and/or of an excessive temperature inside the chamber. The treating device
advantageously comprises a safety system for preventing the emission of microwaves
while the chamber is not closed and/or in the event of abnormal functioning, for example
of excessive temperature and/or in the absence of solvent.
The treating device may be configured to control the duration of emission of
the microwaves, so as not to reach a duration of treatment that is liable to damage the hair.
The process according to the invention may comprise, before step c), a step
of detecting the closure of the chamber. For example, a contactor is actuated when the
chamber is closed.
The emission of the microwaves may be conditioned to the detection of
closure of the chamber.
The process according to the invention may also comprise a step of
detecting the emplacement of the hair intended to be treated, before step c). This
detection step may be performed, for example, by an optical sensor and/or a
mechanical feeler.
The process according to the invention may comprise, for example during step
c), a step of measuring the temperature to which the treated hair is subjected. This
temperature measurement step may be performed by a thermometer without contact with
the hair.
The chamber, for example when it is defined by tongs, may include all or part
of the device for applying the mechanical tension.
The device for applying the mechanical tension may comprise one or more
curlers or other rolling device, which are, for example, electrically insulating and
compatible with exposure to microwaves, jaws and/or one or more combs.
The treating device may be configured to allow the use of several different
constraint-application devices, serving, for example, to curl the hair or, on the contrary, to
straighten it. The devices may be interchangeable by the user.

The treating device may be arranged to automatically recognize the constraint-
application device used, where appropriate, for example by means of electrical contacts or
one or more switches.
The device for applying the mechanical tension may be configured so as to
place the treated hair flat during the exposure to the microwaves.
Irrespective of the embodiment under consideration, the hair treated in step b)
may be subjected to one or more mechanical constraints. The mechanical constraint(s) may
be chosen from bending, straightening, compression, torsion and/or traction constraints.
The constraints applied may be intended to curl the hair or, on the contrary, to straighten it.
The constraints applied may also be intended to curl the hair over one portion of its length
and to straighten it over another portion of its length.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, step b) is performed by
applying at least one torsion, traction or compression constraint on the keratin materials.
The treating device may comprise, within the same hand-held piece, the
microwave generator and the device for applying the mechanical tension. The term "hand-
held piece" denotes a piece manipulated by the user in one hand during the hair treatment.
When the treating device comprises tongs, the microwaves may be emitted by
only one of the arms of the tongs or by all the arms of the tongs.
As conveying means that may be used for conveying the microwaves from the
generator to the chamber, mention may be made of waveguides, for example a flexible
coaxial cable less than 10 m long, preferably less than 5 m long, less than 5 cm and
preferably less than 2 cm in diameter, and assemblies comprising at least one antenna for
emitting electromagnetic radiation and at least one antenna for receiving electromagnetic
radiation.
The microwave generator and/or the chamber may be configured to subject the
hair treated in step c) to microwave radiation that is variable in its spatial distribution
within the chamber, for example rotating. Rotating microwave radiation may
advantageously make it possible to expose the treated hair more uniformly to said radiation
and thus to reduce the risk of local overexposure to the radiation.
The solvent(s) are, for example, liquids with a boiling point of less than 200°C.

Said solvent may be, for example, and preferably is contained in the
composition comprising at least one fatty substance from step a).
Said solvent may comprise and in particular may consist of a polar pro tic liquid
medium with a dielectric constant at 20°C of greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater
than or equal to 10 and in particular greater than or equal to 15.
According to a preferred embodiment, the solvents used comprise water. Even
more preferentially, the solvent used is water.
According to another preferred embodiment, this solvent is propanol or
isopropanol.
According to yet another preferred embodiment, the solvents consist of a
mixture of water and of propanol or isopropanol.
In one embodiment, the solvent in vapor form may be generated by direct
heating of the solvent in liquid form by the microwaves.
The solvents in vapor form may have, in the region of and/or in contact
with the hair, during step c), a temperature of between 80 and 200°C and preferably
between 100 and 150°C, for example between 120 and 150°C.
The pressure to which the treated hair is subjected, during step c) is close
to atmospheric pressure, and may range from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa and better still
from 75 000 to 150 000 Pa.
The hair may, during part or all of step c), be present in a volume defined by at
least one wall of a material, said material allowing the microwaves to pass through the wall
and limiting the evaporation of the compound present, before emission of the microwaves,
on contact with the treated hair.
The use of such a material may advantageously limit the drying of the hair
during the treatment according to the invention.
Said material may comprise and in particular may consist of cellophane
and/or may have a low porosity. In one variant, the material may be porous and in
particular may be a mesh.
Irrespective of the embodiment under consideration, the duration of step c)
may range from 1 second to 60 minutes, preferably from 1 second to 30 minutes, better
still from 30 seconds to 20 minutes and more particularly from 3 to 15 minutes.

Irrespective of the embodiment under consideration, step c) may be repeated,
for example between 0 and 10 times and preferentially between 0 and 5 times.
DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES
The invention may be better understood from reading the following detailed
description of nonlimiting implementation examples thereof, and with reference to the
attached drawing, in which:
- figures 1 to 5 schematically and partially show embodiments of treating
devices according to the invention, and
- figures 6, 7 and 9 to 13 show locks of hair that have undergone various
cosmetic treatments according to the process of the invention,
- figure 8 schematically and partially shows an embodiment according to the
invention.
Figure 1 shows a treating device 100 comprising a hand-held piece 3
comprising a chamber in which is received the hair to be treated, connected via a hose 2 to
. a base station 1 comprising a microwave generator.
The hose 2 may comprise a waveguide.
Figure 2 shows a detail of figure 1.
The microwaves 70 conveyed into the hand-held piece 3 by the waveguide 2
make it possible to heat the liquid solvent present on the hair to be treated and to change it
into the form of solvent in vapor form. In this embodiment, a device for applying a
mechanical tension and a lock of hair (not shown) are present in the hand-held piece 3 and
the hair is exposed both to the microwaves and to the solvent in vapor form 80. A
temperature detector 150 may be present in order to measure the temperature of the treated
lock of hair and a control system, for example a microprocessor system, may make it
possible to interrupt or modify the emission of the microwaves in the event of a detected
temperature being above a predefined threshold.
Figure 3 shows an embodiment in which the treating chamber is formed by
closing tongs constituting all or part of the hand-held piece 3. The tongs make it possible,
when open, to introduce between the arms one or more locks of hair to be treated. Each
arm defines, for example, half of the chamber.
The microwaves may be emitted by only one or by both arms of the tongs.

A sensor (not shown) may inform the treating device regarding the fact that the
tongs are closed and the emission of the microwaves may be conditioned to the detection
of this closure.
The mechanical tension applied to the hair may be a traction so as to straighten
it.
In all the preceding examples, the means for conveying the microwaves may
comprise an emitting antenna 10 and a receiving antenna 15, as illustrated in figure 4.
Figure 5 moreover shows a lock of hair M present in a treating chamber of the
hand-held piece 3. The chamber is microwave-leaktight and comprises, to this end, for
example, electrically conductive foam seals 200 which reflect the microwave radiation
where the hair leaves the chamber.
In one variant, not shown, the microwave generator 1 may, for example, be
present in the chamber and/or the device for applying a mechanical tension.
Figure 8 shows an embodiment in which a lock of hair M is present in a
volume delimited by a wall 300 of a material, said material allowing the microwaves 70 to
pass through the wall, and containing the generated vapor 80.
The contents of the vapor 80 advantageously allow the hair M to be moistened
during the treatment.
Said material comprises and in particular consists of a cellophane film. In one
variant, the material may be porous and in particular may be a mesh.
Steps d) and e)
The process according to the invention may also comprise at least one
additional pretreatment step d) and/or one additional post-treatment step e), these steps
consisting in performing on the keratin materials at least one standard treatment chosen
from oxidation dyeing, direct dyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping based on one or
more reducing agents, for example thiol reducing agents, or based on one or more alkali
metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a care treatment, a mask and/or a shampoo.
Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition
containing at least one fatty substance, the composition(s) applied during the additional
step(s) d) are free of fatty substances.
Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition

containing at least one fatty substance, the composition(s) applied during the additional
step(s) e) are free of fatty substances.
Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition
containing at least one non-silicone polymer, the composition(s) applied during the
additional step(s) d) are free of non-silicone polymer.
Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition
containing at least one non-silicone polymer, the composition(s) applied during the
additional step(s) e) are free of non-silicone polymer.
Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition
containing at least one surfactant, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s)
d) are free of surfactant.
Advantageously, when the composition from step a) is a composition
containing at least one surfactant, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s)
e) are free of surfactant.
Step d) takes place before steps a), b) and c).
Step e) takes place after steps a), b) and c).
When an additional pretreatment step d) and an additional post-treatment step
e) are performed, these steps may be identical or different, and are preferably different.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the additional step is a
pretreatment step d).
When the additional step is a step comprising permanent reshaping based on
one or more reducing agents, then the step may be followed by a step comprising the
application to the hair of at least one fixing composition comprising one or more oxidizing
agents.
Advantageously, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) d) are
free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing
agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.
Advantageously, the composition(s) applied during the additional step(s) e) are
free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing
agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.
The duration of step d) may vary, according to the desired shaping performance

qualities and the nature of the hair, for example.
The composition used in step a) and the optional compositions used in the
additional steps d) and e) may be applied while the hair is present in the chamber, for
example by means of a suitable application system. The application system comprises, for
example, a pad, a comb, one or more dispensing orifices or a spray nozzle, arranged in the
chamber or outside it, for example on the path of the hair leaving or entering the chamber.
The composition used in step d) may be subjected to the microwave radiation.
The treatment device may comprise a sensor that is sensitive to a characteristic
of the hair, for example the color, the mechanical strength, the surface state or the
humidity, and the treating device may control at least one parameter of the treatment as a
function of the characteristic thus detected, for example the microwave energy, the solvent
temperature, the duration of the treatment and/or the mechanical constraint exerted.
According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a hair
treatment device for performing the process as defined above, comprising:
- a device for applying a mechanical tension to the hair,
- a microwave generator,
- at least one composition comprising at least one substance chosen from fatty
substances, silicone polymers and surfactants.
All the characteristics stated with regard to the above process apply to the
treating device.
Thus, the treating device may, for example, define a treating chamber forming
a shield to microwaves.
All the compositions used in the process according to the invention may be,
independently of each other, in the form of a thickened or unthickened lotion, a cream, a
gel or a mousse.
The examples that follow are given as nonlimiting illustrations of the present
invention.
Examples

Example 1: Process for durably curling the hair using a composition containing
at least one fatty substance
A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in the
following manner.
The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition in
accordance with the invention comprising at least one fatty substance is then applied, with
a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.
The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.
The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane) or not, and
is then treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwave device
(Samsung Combi CE 137nem; 2.45 GHz) for 15 minutes with a power of 300 W.
The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, depending on
the case.
The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.

obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.
The result is reported in figure 6.
Example 2: Process for durably curling the hair using a composition containing
at least one fatty substance

A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a
manner similar to that of Example 1, except that the aqueous composition applied here is
that detailed in the following table.

This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durably curled,
and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.
The result is reported in figure 7.
Example 3: Process for durably curling the hair using a composition containing
at least one non-silicone polymer
A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in the
following manner.
The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition in
accordance with the invention comprising at least one non-silicone polymer is then
applied, with a minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.
The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.

The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane), and is then
treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwave device (Samsung
Combi CE 137nem; 2.45 GHz) for 5 minutes with a power of 450 W.
The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, depending on
the case.
The table that follows indicates the aqueous composition applied.


This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight), the lock
obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.
The result is reported in figure 9.
Example 4: Process for durably curling the hair using a composition containing
at least one non-silicone polymer
A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a
manner similar to that of Example 1, using the aqueous composition detailed in the
following table.


A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a
manner similar to that of Example 1, using the aqueous composition detailed in the
following table.

This process allows shaping of the lock, the lock obtained is durably curled,
and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.
The result is reported in figure 11.
Example 6: Process for durably curling the hair using a composition containing
at least one surfactant
A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in the
following manner.
The lock is shampooed and dried manually, and an aqueous composition in
accordance with the invention comprising at least one surfactant is then applied, with a
minimum bath ratio of 2 to 1, uniformly along the lock.

The lock is then rolled up on and fixed to a curler.
The lock is then placed in a confined medium (such as cellophane film), and is
then treated by the emission of microwaves via a household microwave device (Samsung
Combi CE 137nem; 2.5 GHz) for 5 minutes with a power of 450 W.
The end of the treatment is followed by rinsing or shampooing, depending on
the case.

This process allows shaping of the lock (which is initially straight), the lock
obtained is durably curled, and a gain in the volume of the lock is also observed.
The result is reported in figure 12.
Example 7: Process for durably curling the hair using a composition containing
at least one surfactant
A 1 g lock 20 cm long of moistened natural straight hair was treated in a
manner similar to that of Example 1, except that the aqueous composition applied here is
that detailed in the following table.

CLAIMS
1. A cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, preferably the hair,
comprising at least the steps consisting in:
a) applying to said keratin fibers a composition containing at least one
substance chosen from fatty substances, non-silicone polymers and surfactants,
b) applying a mechanical tension to said keratin fibers, and
c) exposing said keratin fibers under mechanical tension to microwaves, at a
pressure ranging from 50 000 to 250 000 Pa, in the presence of at least one solvent in
vapor form on contact with the keratin fibers and without there being complete drying of
the keratin fibers throughout the entire exposure to the microwaves,
the solvent(s) in vapor form being entirely generated by evaporating at least
one compound present, before emission of the microwaves, on contact with the keratin
fibers,
step a) taking place prior to step c).
2. The process as claimed in claim 1, in which the pressure ranges from 75
000 to 150 000 Pa, and, preferably, the pressure is atmospheric pressure.
3. The process as claimed in claim 1 or 2, in which the composition from step
a) is free of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides at a pH above 12 or of reducing
agents for cleaving the disulfide bonds.
4. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the
composition from step a) contains at least one fatty substance.
5. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, in which said fatty
substance(s) are chosen from C6-C16 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16
carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type, synthetic
triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty acid and/or fatty
alcohol esters other than triglycerides and plant waxes, non-silicone waxes and silicones,
and mixtures thereof.
6. The process as claimed in claim 4 or 5, in which the fatty substance(s) are
advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, plant waxes, solid fatty alcohols and
solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

7. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, in which
the composition from step a) contains at least one non-silicone polymer.
8. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, in which said non-silicone
polymer(s) are thickening polymers chosen from cellulose-based thickeners, especially
hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and
derivatives thereof, especially hydroxypropyl guar, gums of microbial origin, especially
xanthan gum or scleroglucan gum, crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic
acid homopolymers, and associative polymers.
9. The process as claimed in claim 7, in which said non-silicone polymer(s)
are one or more fixing polymers chosen from:

- methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers,
- acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers,
- copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate,
- vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers,
- crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers,
- copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate,
- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized
with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
chloride,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium
methosulfate,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate
or methacrylate copolymers.
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone
terpolymers,
quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide
copolymers,
- quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole,
- chitosans or salts thereof,
- polymers comprising units derived from:

a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and
methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group,
b) at least one acidic comonomer comprising one or more reactive
carboxylic groups, and
c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary,
secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and
the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl
sulfate,
methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl
methacrylate copolymers,
- polyalkyloxazolines,
- vinyl acetate homopolymers,
- vinyl acetate copolymers,
- nonionic acrylic ester homopolymers and copolymers,
- copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer,
- styrene homopolymers and copolymers,
- polyamides,

- vinyllactam homopolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers,
polyvinylcaprolactam, and
- vinyllactam copolymers such as poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate)
copolymers.
10. The process as claimed in claim 7, in which said non-silicone polymer(s)
are one or more conditioning polymers chosen from:
- cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium salts,
- quaternary diammonium polymers, and
- cationic polysaccharides, especially cationic celluloses and galactomannan
gums.

11. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, in which
the composition from step a) contains at least one surfactant.
12. The process as claimed in the preceding claim, in which said surfactant(s)
are chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and
amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

13. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the
composition from step a) is an aqueous composition, preferably comprising from 20% to
99.9% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.
14. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which step a)
is prior to step b).
15. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which step
b) is performed by applying at least one torsion, traction or compression constraint on the
keratin materials.
16. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the
duration of step c) ranges from 1 second to 60 minutes, preferably from 1 second to 30
minutes, better still from 30 seconds to 20 minutes and more particularly from 3 to 15
minutes.
17. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the
solvents used comprise water, and, more preferentially, the solvent used is water.
18. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, comprising at
least one additional pretreatment step d) and/or one additional post-treatment step e), these
steps consisting in performing on the keratin materials at least one standard treatment
chosen from oxidation dyeing, direct dyeing, bleaching, permanent reshaping based on one
or more reducing agents, for example thiol reducing agents, or based on one or more alkali
metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides, a care treatment, a mask and/or a shampoo.