MINERAL OIL FREE POLYMERICALLY STABILIZED MAKE-UP REMOVER
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0001] A variety of compositions are known which function
to remove make-up from skin, particularly facial tissue. U.S.
Patent 6,200,579, for example, teaches a composition
consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are
distinct, to remove the make-up or transfer-free make-up.
U.S. Patent 6,342,469 teaches make-up removing and/or
cleansing cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion and comprising (1) at least one silicone emulsifier,
(2) at least one branched-chain hydrocarbonaceous oil and (3)
at least one make-up removing oil chosen from esters of a
fatty acid comprising at least 12 carbon atoms. U.S. Patent
6,428,775 teaches a cosmetic make-up removal composition
consisting essentially of: (i) about 15 to about 25% of a
first make-up removing ingredient selected from the group
consisting of waxes, mineral oil and mixtures thereof, (ii) at
least about 5% of an isoparaffin as a second make-up removing
ingredient; and (iii) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0002] A first aspect of the present invention is directed
to a make-up removal composition, comprising a mineral
oil-free oil phase; a sodium salt of an acrylate copolymer
such as a sodium acrylates copolymer; a polymeric
stabilization agent; a hydrophobic wetting agent; and an
aqueous phase.
[0003] Another aspect of the present invention is directed
to a method of removing make-up from facial tissue or skin,
comprising applying to facial tissue a make-up removal
composition, comprising a mineral oil-free oil phase; a sodium
salt of an acrylate copolymer; a polymeric stabilization
agent; and a hydrophobic wetting agent; and an aqueous phase.
[0004] As shown in working examples below which describe
consumer performance testing, the present invention was found
to provide superior make-up removal capabilities compared to
other make-up removal compositions, including commercially
available compositions and compositions that have similar and
dissimilar ingredients. Without intending to be bound by
theory, Applicants attribute the unexpectedly superior
performance of the inventive compositions to a unique "break
and reform" rheological profile. As described in the working
examples and illustrated in figures herein, the "break and
reform" profile features successive cycles of a decrease and
then increase in viscosity during application (e.g., rubbing)
to facial tissue and removal of the make-up from facial
tissue. Stated somewhat differently, Applicants have
discovered that in accordance with the "break and reform"
rheology, the inventive compositions can break on the make-up,
removing a quantity of make-up, and then reform and do the
same process over again until all the make-up is lifted off
the facial tissue or skin. Based on the results of the
experiments described in the working examples, it was observed
that unlike known make-up removal compositions, an inventive
composition performed the "break and reform" rheology rather
quickly in make-up removal timings and left little to no
residue on the skin.
[0005] As illustrated in the figures and explained in
detail herein, the inventive make-up removal compositions
exhibit a variable ("up and down" or "increasing and then
decreasing") shear stress response to increasing shear rates,
e.g., at 20, 40, 80 and 150 1/seconds, when measured using a
rheometer such as Prorheo Model R 180.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0006] Fig. 1 is a graph (rheogram) that compares the
rheological profiles of an embodiment of the present invention
(described in example 1) to a commercial emulsion-type make-up
remover In this type of rheological evaluation, the method
entails applying increasing and decreasing shear rate ramps
while recording changes in shear stress. Rheograms contain
two different flow curves, one representing acceleration (the
"up" curve) followed by another flow curve corresponding to
deceleration (the "down" curve). These curves are generated
during a complete testing cycle. This loop is often referred
to in the art as the hysterisis loop and the area within the
loop represents a measure of thixotropic structure of a
formulation. A decrease in this loop area is a measure of the
extent of the structural breakdown during a shear program. It
is apparent that in the upper rheogram shown in this graph
that the inventive composition generated a significantly
larger loop area than the area generated by the commercial
product (lower rheogram). More importantly, the larger (top)
rheogram shows evidence of variable shear stress response to
increasing shear rates. This is seen in the "up and down"
curve response at 20, 40, 80 and 150 1/seconds. In sharp
contrast, the comparative product did not produce any "up and
down" variable response to changes in shear rate.
[0007] Fig. 2 is a graph that compares the rheological
profiles and differences in thixotropic structure (area
between the curves) of an embodiment of the present invention
(described in example 1) to a make-up removal composition with
similar ingredients. Despite these similarities, the
rheological profiles are clearly different. There is no
variable or "up and down" shear stress response in relation to
changes in shear rate for the comparative composition.
[0008] Fig. 3 is a graph that compares the rheological
profiles and differences in thixotropic structure (area
between the curves) of an embodiment of the present invention
(described in example 1) to a make-up removal composition with
similar ingredients. Despite these similarities, the
rheological profiles are clearly different. There is no "up
and down" shear stress response in relation to changes in
shear rate for the comparative composition.
DETAILED DESCRIPION OF THE INVENTION
[0009] The oil phase of the inventive compositions contains
at least one oil. Oils that may be useful in the present
invention include straight or branched chain hydrocarbons or
esters thereof. The hydrocarbon chain is typically C12 to
C26, and in some embodiments from C16 to C26. The esters
include both lower and higher alkyl esters, e.g., C14 to C30.
The polarity index of these hydrocarbons generally ranges from
about 10 to about 40. Examples include isohexadecane,
isopropyl myrstate, octyl palmitate, octyl stearate,
ethylhexyl stearate and ethylhexyl palmitate oil. In some
embodiments, the oil phase contains isohexadecane and
isopropyl myrstate. Yet other examples of suitable oils
include non-hydrocarbons known in the art as being useful in
make-up removal, such as cyclopentasiloxane.
[0010] The amount of the oil phase in the inventive
compositions generally varies between about 10 to about 45% by
weight, and in some embodiments, from about 15 to about 30%,
and in some embodiments from about 20% to about 30% and in
some other embodiments from about 25 to about 28, 29 or 30% by
weight of the composition.
[0011] Examples of sodium salts of acrylate (co)polymers
include sodium polyethylacrylate, sodium polyacrylamide
(commercially available from SEPPIC under the tradename
SEPIGEL 305)), and sodium salts of acrylate copolymers.
Acrylates (co)polymers useful in the present invention are
more generally referred to in the art as acrylic film-forming
dispersions as they are commercially available in the form of
liquid dispersions or emulsions. Examples of acrylates
copolymers (which can be in sodium salt form) are known in the
art, and include ethyl acrylates/methyl methacrylates
copolymer emulsion (chemical name)(INCI name:water (and)
acrylates copolymer), which is commercially available from
Kobo Products, Inc. (South Plainfield, NJ) and Daito Kasei
Kogyo Co., Ltd., under the trade name Daitosol AD. This
product is sold in the form of an emulsion that contains
water, ethyl acrylates/methyl methacrylates copolymer, sodium
dehydroacetate, and Laureth-20 (lauryl alcohol and oxirane).
See, United States Patent Application Publication 20060134043
Al. Another suitable acrylates copolymer is ethyl
methacrylates/N-butyl acrylates/2-methylhexyl acrylates
copolymer emulsion (chemical name)(INCI name:water (and)
acrylates/ethylhexyl acrylates copolymer), which is also
commercially available from Kobo Products, Inc. and Daito
Kasei Kogyo Co., Ltd., under the trade name Daitosol SJ. This
product is sold in the form of an emulsion that contains
water, ethyl methacrylates/N-butyl acrylates/2-methylhexyl
acrylates copolymer, and Laureth-20. Other yet other
acrylates copolymers include an alkyl (meth)acrylates
copolymer emulsion (INCI name: acrylates copolymer), which is
commercially available from Nippon LSC Ltd., under the trade
name Yodosol GH34F; a styrene/acrylates copolymer emulsion
(INCI name), which is commercially available from Nippon LSC
Ltd., under the tradename Yodosol GH41F; a Polyacrylates-21
(and) acrylates/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylates copolymer
(INCI name), commercially available from Interpolymer under
the tradename Syntran 5100, the chemical composition of which
includes, in addition to water and the two acrylates
copolymers having CAS Nos. 68541-61-7 and 67380-24-9
respectively, ethoxylated secondary alcohol
(CAS No. 84133-50-6) and sodium laurylpolyethoxyethanol
sulfate (CAS No. 68891-38-3); a styrene/acrylates/ammonium
methacrylates copolymer (and) butylene glycol (and) sodium
Laureth-12 sulfate (INCI name), commercially available from
Interpolymer under the tradename Syntran 5760 as a 40% aqueous
dispersion; and a polyurethane-10 and PEG-12 dimethicone
alcohol copolymer emulsion (INCI name), commercially available
from Nippon LSC under the tradename Yodosol PUD (which also
includes ethanol, 2-phenoyl-ethanol, and water in the
emulsion).
[0012] The amount of sodium salt of the acrylates
(co)polymer in the make-up removal compositions of the present
invention generally ranges from about 0.4% to about 0.8%, and
in some embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 0.7%, and in
some other embodiments, from about 0.6% to about 0.65%, based
on total weight of the composition.
[0013] In experiments wherein the sodium salt of an
acrylates copolymer was substituted with an ammonium salt of
an acrylates copolymer (specifically Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl
taurate/VP Copolymer having the tradename Aristoflex AVC,
available from Clariant), Applicants unexpectedly discovered
that the resultant composition did not exhibit a rheological
profile similar to inventive compositions as illustrated in
Fig. 1. Use of sodium polyacrylate (e.g., commercially
available from Cognis under the tradename Cosmedia SP) , as
well as Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80), also
yielded a rheological profile that does not fit with Fig. 1.
[0014] The polymeric stabilizing agent provides stability
and consistency of texture, particularly during storage. It
is selected however, so as not to affect the rheological
properties of the inventive make-up removal compositions.
Examples of polymeric stabilizing agents or stabilizing
polymers include a fatty-chain gelling agent of the type which
is a copolymer of a monoethylenic carboxylic acid containing 3
to 6 carbon atoms (or its anhydride) and of a long-chain
acrylic ester. This type of water-soluble acrylic copolymer,
which may be crosslinked and which is referred to in the art
as a "fatty-chain gelling agent", is described in U.S. Patent
5,567,426 and EP-A-0 268 164. In this copolymer, the
proportion of monomeric acid is preferably from 90 to 98% by
weight and the proportion of monomeric ester is preferably
from 10 to 2% by weight. The monomeric acid has the formula:
[0015]
[0016] in which formula R represents H, a halogen, OH, a
lactone or lactam radical, a group--C=N, or a C1-C3 alkyl
radical. The preferred monomers are acrylic acid and maleic
anhydride. The monomeric ester has the formula
[0017]
[0018] in which formula: Ri is H, methyl or ethyl, and R2 is
a C8-C30 alkyl radical or a C8-C30 oxyalkylene radical.
Monomeric esters which may be mentioned include: decyl,
lauryl, stearyl, behenyl and melissyl acrylates and
methacrylates. In some embodiments, the gelling agent is an
acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymer, e.g., which includes
the copolymers of C10-C30 alkyl acrylates and of acrylic or
methacrylic acid or of their esters. Specific examples of the
gelling agent are sold under the names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen
TR2® or Carbopol 1342® by the company Goodrich (CTFA name:
Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). The Pemulen
products are known as polymeric emulsifiers that are
predominantly high molecular weight polyacrylic acid polymers.
They have a small lipophilic portion in addition to a large
hydrophilic portion. This chemical structure allows them to
function as primary emulsifiers.
[0019] The amount of the stabilizing polymer in the make-up
removal compositions of the present invention generally ranges
from about 0.001% to about 0.5%, and in some embodiments, from
about 0.01% to about 0.2%, and in yet other embodiments from
about 0.025% to about 0.075%, based on total weight of the
composition.
[0020] Several types of hydrophobic wetting agents may be
suitable for use in the present invention. One such type
includes poly-a-olefins including the polyisobutenes (e.g.,
hydrogenated polyisobutenes) sold under the name Permethyl 99
A, 101 A, 102 A, 104 A (n=16) and 106 A (n=38) by the company
Presperse Inc., and the products sold under the name Arlamol
HD (n=3) by the company ICI (n denoting the degree of
polymerization), of hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated
polydecene type, which are commercially available, for
example, under the names Ethylflo by the company Ethyl Corp.
and Arlamol PAO by the company ICI. include hydrogenated
polydecene Other representative poly-a-olefins include
hydrogenated and non-hydrogenated forms of isoeicosane and
polybutene.
[0021] Yet other hydrophobic wetting agents include mono-,
di- and tri-glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, e.g.,
caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric
triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride.
[0022] Other examples of hydrophobic wetting agents include
alkoxylated fatty alcohols, which are ethers formed from the
reaction of a fatty alcohol with an alkylene oxide, generally
ethylene oxide or propylene oxide, e.g., ethoxylated fatty
alcohols which are adducts of fatty alcohols and polyethylene
oxide. Specific examples of ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols
that may be suitable for use in the present invention include
PPG-1 Beheneth-15, PPG-12 Capryleth-18, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9,
PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-l-Ceteth-1,
PPG-l-Ceteth-5, PPG-l-Ceteth-10, PPG-l-Ceteth-20,
PPG-2-Ceteth-l, PPG-2-Ceteth-5, PPG-2-Ceteth-10,
PPG-2-Ceteth-20, PPG-4-Ceteth-l, PPG-4-Ceteth-5,
PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20,
PPG-8-Ceteth-l, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5,
PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2 C12-13 Pareth-8, PPG-2
C12-15 Pareth-6, PPG-4 C13-15 Pareth-15, PPG-5 C9-15 Pareth-6,
PPG-6 C9-11 Pareth-5, PPG-6 C12-15 Pareth-12, PPG-6 C12-18
Pareth-11, PPG-3 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-4 C12-14
Sec-Pareth-5, PPG-5 C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, PPG-5 C12-14
Sec-Pareth-9, PPG-l-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Deceth-3, PPG-2-Deceth-5,
PPG-2-Deceth-7, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-2-Deceth-12,
PPG-2-Deceth-15, PPG-2-Deceth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-30,
PPG-2-Deceth-40, PPG-2-Deceth-50, PPG-2-Deceth-60,
PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-4-Deceth-6, PPG-6-Deceth-4,
PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-14-Deceth-6,
PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-12, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-2 0,
PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-2 4,
PPG-2O-Decyltetradeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4,
PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-8, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9,
PPG-2-Isodeceth-10, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-2-Isodeceth-18,
PPG-2-Isodeceth-25, PPG-4-Isodeceth-10, PPG-12-Laneth-50,
PPG-2-Laureth-5, PPG-2-Laureth-8, PPG-2-Laureth-12,
PPG-3-Laureth-8, PPG-3-Laureth-9, PPG-3-Laureth-10,
PPG-3-Laureth-12, PPG-4 Laureth-2, PPG-4 Laureth-5, PPG-4
Laureth-7, PPG-4-Laureth-15, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-6-Laureth-3,
PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-7 Lauryl Ether, PPG-3-Myreth-3,
PPG-3-Myreth-ll, PPG-20-PEG-20 Hydrogenated Lanolin,
PPG-2-PEG-11 Hydrogenated Lauryl Alcohol Ether, PPG-12-PEG-50
Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-65 Lanolin Oil, PPG-40-PEG-60 Lanolin Oil,
PPG-l-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether, PPG-3-PEG-6 Oleyl Ether,
PPG-23-Steareth-34, PPG-30 Steareth-4, PPG-34-Steareth-3,
PPG-38 Steareth-6, PPG-1 Trideceth-6, PPG-4 Trideceth-6, and
PPG-6 Trideceth-8.
[0023] Yet other hydrophobic wetting agents that may be
suitable for use in the present invention include a
water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer based on
crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers
comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic
acid (AMPS) monomer, in a form partially or totally
neutralized with a mineral base other than ammonia, such as
sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. They are preferably
totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e., at
least 90% neutralized. These AMPS polymers according to the
invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. Examples of
water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers include
crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium
acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as Simulgel 800
(CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate). Examples of
AMPS copolymers (commercially available from Seppic) include
AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer sold under the name Simulgel EG
(CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium
Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80)/
[0024] The amount of the hydrophobic wetting agent in the
make-up removal compositions of the present invention
generally ranges from about 0.4% to about 0.8%, and in some
embodiments, from about 0.5% to about 0.7%, and in yet other
embodiments from about 0.6% to about 0.65%, based on total
weight of the composition.
[0025] Prepared mixtures of the sodium salt of the
acrylates copolymer and the hydrophobic wetting agent may be
commercially available. In this regard, mention may be made
of Cosmedia SPL (i.e., sodium polyacrylate (and) hydrogenated
polydecene (and) PPG-5 Laureth 5, available from Cognis), and
LUVIGEL EM (i.e., caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) sodium
acrylates copolymer, commercially available from BASF).
[0026] The hydrophobic wetting agent, also referred to as a
processing aid, is non-soluble and non-miscible in and with
the aqueous phase, and functions to delay the wetting,
swelling and hydration of the sodium salt of the acrylate
copolymer. The schematic diagram below shows an inventive
embodiment wherein the relatively large blackened spots
represent LUVIGEL EM particles, and which surround oil
droplets (represented by open circles) from which the Pemulin
TRl® protrude.
BASF FINE CHEMICALS FOR THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY
Cosmetic O/W - Emulsion stabilized with Luvigel EM
(Gel forming mechanism)

Without intending to be bound by theory, the acrylate backbone
of the stabilizing polymer (e.g., the Pemulen TRl®) adheres to
the oil phase, and the hydrophilic portions protrude into the
water phase and form an interfacial barrier to coalescence,
preventing the oil droplets from sticking together. The
lipophilic portion of the Pemulen adsorbs at the oil-water
interface, and the hydrophobic portion swells in the water
forming a gel network around the oil droplets to provide
excellent emulsion stability to the oils used in the present
compositions. Otherwise, the composition is prone to what is
referred to in the art as Ospwald ripening wherein oil
droplets coalesce and degrade. As the make-up composition is
rubbed onto the facial tissue, the matrix formed by the
LUVIGEL EM is broken down (resulting in a decrease in
viscosity), facial make-up (also referred to in the art as
soil) is absorbed by the oil phase, and the matrix is then
reformed (resulting in an increase in viscosity). This
process is cyclic during the make-up removal process.
[0027] In a penultimate embodiment, the make-up removal
composition contains about 1% to about 20% isopropyl myrstate,
about 1% to about 20% isohexadecane, about 1.0% to about 10%
cyclopentasiloxane, about 0.001% to about 0.5% acrylates/C10-
C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, about 0.4% to about 0.8%
caprylic/capric triglyceride, and about 0.4% to about 0.8%
sodium acrylates copolymer. It also contains an aqueious
phase comprising water.
[0028] The aqueous phase of the make-up removal
compositions contains water, typically in amounts ranging from
about 50% to about 75% by weight of the composition. The
aqueous phase may also contain cosmetically acceptable
additives or adjuvants as well as cosmetic or dermatologic
active agents. Representative additives and adjuvants
include, for example, water-soluble or water-miscible solvents
or co-solvents, humectants, moisturizers, colorants, fillers,
preservatives, antioxidants (e.g., EDTA, BHT, tocopherol),
essential oils, fragrances, neutralizing or pH-adjusting
agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide),
conditioning or softening agents (e.g., panthenol, allantoin
and glycerin) and extracts such as botanical extracts.
Additives and adjuvants may be present in the compositions in
amounts generally ranging from about 0.01% to about 10% by
weight. Examples of cosmetic active agents or dermatological
active agents include sunscreen agents, free-radical
scavengers, keratolytic agents, vitamins (e.g., Vitamin E and
derivatives thereof) , anti-elastase and anti-collagenase
agents, peptides, fatty acid derivatives, steroids, trace
elements, extracts of algae and of planktons, enzymes and
coenzymes, flavonoids and ceramides, y-hydroxy acids and
mixtures thereof, and enhancing agents. Active agents may be
present in the compositions in amounts generally ranging from
about 0.01% to about 10% by weight. These ingredients,
additives, adjuvants and active agents alike, may be soluble
or dispersible in whatever phase or phases are present in the
mascara (i.e., aqueous and/or oil phase).
[0029] By way of representative example, suitable
water-soluble or water-miscible solvents or co-solvents
comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example of C1-C4, for
instance ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for
instance ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene
glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether,
triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol.
[0030] Representative humectants include but are not
limited to glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, polyglycerin,
ethoxylated and propoxylated glycerols polypropylene glycol,
polyethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,
triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol.
A preferred humectant is glycerin.
[0031] Suitable moisturizers include sodium lactate,
mannitol, amino acids, hyaluronic acid, lanolin, urea,
petroleum jelly and mixtures thereof. Other examples include
polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin,
polyglycerin, polyethylene glycol, ethylene glycol, diethylene
glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene
glycol and sorbitol.
[0032] Colorants may be chosen from the lipophilic dyes,
hydrophilic dyes, traditional pigments, and nacres usually
used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures
thereof. The coloring agent may have any shape, such as, for
example, spheroidal, oval, platelet, irregular, and mixtures
thereof. Pigments may optionally be surface-treated e.g.,
with silicones (e.g., inorganic pigments may be coated with
simethicone), perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino
acids. The liposoluble dyes include, for example, Sudan Red,
D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow
11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow and annatto.
The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or
methylene blue.
[0033] The pigments may be chosen from white pigments,
colored pigments, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, coated
pigments, uncoated pigments, pigments having a micron size and
pigments not having a micron size. Among the inorganic
pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide,
optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide,
cerium oxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine
blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Among the organic
pigments which may be mentioned are carbon black, pigments of
D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine, lakes based on
barium, lakes based on strontium, lakes based on calcium, and
lakes based on aluminum.
[0034] The nacreous pigments may, for example, be chosen
from white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium
and mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous
pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica
with, for example, ferric blue and/or chromium oxide, titanium
mica with an organic pigment of the type mentioned above, as
well as nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride,
interferential pigments, and goniochromatic pigments.
[0035] Examples of preservatives include alkyl
para-hydroxybenzoates, wherein the alkyl radical has from 1,
2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 4 carbon
atoms e.g., methyl para-hydroxybenzoate (methylparaben), ethyl
para-hydroxybenzoate (ethylparaben), propyl
para-hydroxybenzoate (propylparaben), butyl
para-hydroxybenzoate (butylparaben) and isobutyl
para-hydroxybenzoate (isobutylparaben). Mixtures of
preservatives may be used, e.g., the mixture of
methyl-paraben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben
sold under the name Nipastat by Nipa, and the mixture of
phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and
butylparaben sold under the name Phenonip, also by Nipa.
[0036] The following examples are intended to further
illustrate the present invention. They are not intended to
limit the invention in any way. Unless otherwise indicated,
all parts are by weight.
[0037] EXAMPLE I — INVENTIVE FORMULATION
[0038] An embodiment of the present invention is described
in Table I.
[0039] TABLE I

[0040] The make-up removal composition was made according
to the following procedure. Phase A1 ingredients (RM 511 S,
53, 633 B, and 71868) are added to a main kettle; heat to
75°C-80°C with low sweep mixing. Once dissolved, add Phase A2
(RM 53971) and mix with low homo and sweep until hydrated and
uniform. Once Phase A1/A2 are uniform, cool to 65°C. Weigh
Phase B (RM 53743, 1082, and 52390) in side kettle and prop
mix moderately until phase is uniform while heating to 65°C.
Add Phase B to A at 65°C and homo-37% & sweep mix-22%. Cool
Phase A+B to 30°C and add pre-mixed Phase C (RM 1082 and
75440). Homo-37% and sweep-22% until viscosity develops.
Keep mixing at same speeds and cool batch to 25°C.
[0041] EXAMPLE II
[0042] RHEOLOGICAL COMPARISON
[0043] Various experiments were conducted in which the
embodiment of the present invention described in Example I
(and which is a cream/polymer-based composition or system) was
compared to other make-up removal compositions.
[0044] The three comparative compositions are referred to
as the cream/surfactant-based system (the formula of which is
shown in TABLE II), another cream/polymer or lotion-based
composition (the formula of which is shown in TABLE II, and
which is referred to as "comparative cream/polymer composition
A") , and a second cream/polymer composition (the formula of
which is shown in TABLE II, and which is referred to as
"comparative cream/polymer composition B").
[0045] TABLE II

[0046] The experiments were conducted using a
rheometer Prorheo Model R 180, in accordance with the
manufacturer's instructions. The following parameters were
employed: temperature 25°C +/-1°C; shear program — start
shear rate (0.0 1/seconds), mid point shear rate
(200.0 1/seconds), and end shear rate (0.0 1/seconds); and
sensor system Proreheo TV spindle #3. The experimental
procedures were as follows: fill Prorheo TV cup with 28 grams
of make-up removal composition; equilibrate sample to 25°C +/-
1°C in controlled temperature bath for 10 minutes; insert TV#
3 sensor probe into TV sample cup start rheo program software;
and when test is complete, store/print rheogram using Rheo
software package.
[0047] The results of the experiments are illustrated in
Figs. 1-3. The rheological comparison between the inventive
composition and the cream/surfactant-based composition is
shown in Fig. 1; the rheological comparison between the
inventive composition and the comparative cream/polymer
composition A is shown in Fig. 2; and the rheological
comparison between the inventive composition and the
comparative cream/polymer composition B is shown in Fig. 3.
[0048] EXAMPLE III - Consumer Performance Testing
[0049] The objective of this experiment was to obtain the
opinions and perceptions of consumers with respect to the
general aesthetics, comfort and irritation of an embodiment of
the present invention and a commercially available make-up
removal composition which is based on silicone oil, on
consumers with and without waterproof make-up.
[0050] The methods entailed flash consumer cross-overs,
semi-qualitative interviews with closed questions. Twenty
(20) women were recruited to test both the inventive
composition and the commercial composition without make-up
applied to the face. The ages of the women range from 18-65
years. They used waterproof make-up remover to remove
waterproof make-up 5-7 times per week. Thirteen (13) of the
20 women were then recruited for further testing of the
compositions with waterproof mascara, foundation, and lipstick
applied to the face. Evaluation was conducted immediately
upon application of the make-up removal composition.
[0051] The make-up composition of the present invention
used in this study is described in Example I, above. The
formula of the comparative composition (hereinafter the
"silicone oil" composition) is set forth below.
[0052] TABLE III

[0053] Regarding the embodiment of the present invention,
satisfaction was determined to be greater than average because
12 of the 13 women were satisfied, ranging from somewhat to
very satisfied, whereas only one of the 13 women was somewhat
dissatisfied. The women determined that the inventive
composition had many strengths, including a pleasant texture
with a non-greasy product feel, just the right consistency,
ease of application, non-greasy skin feel, no sticky skin
feel, clean skin feel, easy make-up removal and product
removal, effective face make-up removal, effective lipstick
removal, and comfortable skin feel. On the other hand, no
weaknesses were accumulated by the women. Regarding
irritation, 4 out of 20 women experienced slight to moderate
irritation in the face and eye areas without make-up. Three
(3) out of 13 women experienced slight irritation in the face
and eye area with make-up.
[0054] Regarding the silicone oil composition, satisfaction
was determined to be less than average. Nine (9) of the 13
women were satisfied, ranging from somewhat to very satisfied,
and one woman was neither satisfied nor dissatisfied. Three
(3) of the 13 women were dissatisfied, ranging from somewhat
to very dissatisfied. According to the women, the strengths
of the silicone oil composition included a pleasant texture,
ease of application, no sticky skin feel, easy make-up
removal, effective eye make-up removal, effective face make-up
removal, effective lipstick removal and comfortable skin feel.
On the other hand, the women determined that the silicone oil
composition had several weaknesses as well, including,
somewhat thin product consistency, very to slightly greasy
product feel, not the right amount of moisture, and requiring
too much rubbing (ranging from slightly to excessive).
Regarding irritation, one of the 20 women experienced very
slight irritation in the eye area without make-up, and 3 of
the 13 experienced slight irritations in the face and eye area
with make-up.
[0055] Overall, inventive composition was accepted by the
women at above average, with 12 out of 13 women finding
themselves somewhat to very satisfied, while the silicone oil
composition was accepted by the women at below average, with 9
out of 13 women somewhat to very satisfied, and 3 out of 13
somewhat to very dissatisfied.
[0056] When tested with make-up on the face, both test
products were found to have pleasant textures, left skin
feeling not sticky, easily removed make-up and effectively
removed face make-up and lipstick. However, the silicone oil
composition was found to remove eye make-up effectively, but
with a somewhat thin product consistency, very to slightly
greasy product feel and left skin without the right amount of
moisture.
[0057] The amount of time it took each panelist to remove
her make-up was recorded while using both products. The
average length of time was similar, with the inventive
composition requiring an average time of 99 seconds, and the
silicone oil product requiring an average time of 96 seconds.
[0058] Regarding irritation, both test products were easy
to apply, left skin feeling comfortable, and caused slight
irritation to the eyes and face both with and without make-up
applied. The number of instances of irritation and degree of
irritation as described by the panelist were similar (with and
without applied make-up).
[0059] Women observed that their skin was left with a
slight to heavy oily/greasy residue when the silicone oil
composition was used without make-up on the face, but that the
residue was not as apparent when using the comparative
composition with make-up on the face. The silicone oil
composition was also found to require harsher rubbing than the
inventive composition to remove make-up from the face.
[0060] Overall, preference of the panelists was in favor of
the inventive composition, with 9 out of 13 women preferring
the inventive composition over the silicone oil composition.
Women observed liking that the inventive composition left
their skin feeling less oily/greasy (4 mentions) , more
moisturized, cleaner, and easier to apply and remove make-up
on the face and eyes (3 mentions each).
[0061] EXAMPLE IV
[0062] The purpose of this experiment was to compare the
efficacy of the embodiment of the present invention described
in Example 1 to the following make-up remover standards,
namely: 1) the cream/surfactant based composition shown in
TABLE II; 2) a mineral oil based composition, the formula of
which is shown in TABLE IV below; 3) the silicone oil-based
composition described in TABLE III; and the cream/polymer
composition B shown in TABLE II (which as shown in Fig. 3,
does not exhibit the rheological profile which is a feature of
the inventive compositions. The formulas of comparative
compositions 1, 3 and 4 are described in Tables above. The
formula of comparative composition 2 is set forth in TABLE IV
below.
[0063] TABLE IV

[0064] The experimental procedure was as follows. The
following products were applied to the volar forearm and dried
for 15 minutes on 2 x 2cm test sites as follows: Site A - Le
stylo waterproof eyeliner -evenly coated; Site B - Eva
Longoria Caramel lipstick -evenly coated; Site C - HIP Liquid
foundation -8uL evenly spread; and Site D - Lip Duet lip liner
-evenly coated. Make-up removers were applied to each test
site with moderate finger pressure along with a circular
motion. Product was then removed with cotton swab. The time
taken to remove products from the test site was recorded. The
results are tabulated below.
[0065] TABLE IV (TEST SUMMARY)

[0066] It was determined that the inventive make-up removal
composition was very efficient in terms of time and
performance at all product sites compared to the other make-up
removers. It was also determined that the inventive
composition left the skin feeling soft and non-greasy as
compared to some of the comparative compositions that left an
oily feel. The texture of inventive composition further
allowed for a more controlled make-up removal because it
stayed on the make-up site while removing. It was observed
that the liquid make-up removers were more prone to run-off
from the make-up site.
[0067] All publications cited in the specification, both
patent publications and non-patent publications are indicative
of the level of skill of those skilled in the art to which
this invention pertains. All these publications are herein
incorporated by reference to the same extent as if each
individual publication were specifically and individually
indicated as being incorporated by reference.
[0100] Although the invention herein has been described
with reference to particular embodiments, it is to be
understood that these embodiments are merely illustrative of
the principles and applications of the present invention. It
is therefore to be understood that numerous modifications may
be made to the illustrative embodiments and that other
arrangements may be devised without departing from the spirit
and scope of the present invention as defined by the appended
claims.
WE CIAIM:
1. A make-up removal composition, comprising a mineral
oil-free oil phase; a sodium salt of an acrylate copolymer; a
stabilizing polymer; and a hydrophobic wetting agent, wherein
said composition exhibits a variable shear stress response to
increasing shear rates comprising 20, 40, 80 and 150
1/seconds.
2. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, wherein said
oil phase comprises a straight or branched chain hydrocarbon
or ester thereof.
3. The make-up removal composition of claim 2, wherein said
straight or branched chain hydrocarbon or ester thereof
comprises isohexadecane, isopropyl myrstate, octyl palmitate
or octyl stearate.
4. The make-up removal composition of claim 2, wherein said
oil phase comprises isohexadecane and isopropyl myrstate.
5. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, wherein oil
phase comprises about 20 to about 30% by weight of said
composition.
6. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, wherein said
sodium salt of an acrylate copolymer comprises sodium
acrylates copolymer.
7. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, wherein said
stabilizing polymer comprises a fatty-chain gelling agent
comprising a copolymer of a monoethylenic carboxylic acid
containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, or an anhydride thereof, and
of a long-chain acrylic ester.
8. The make-up removal composition of claim 7, wherein said
gelling agent comprises a copolymer of a C10-C30 alkyl
(meth)acrylate.
9. The make-up removal composition of claim 8, wherein said
gelling agent comprises an acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymer.
10. The make-up removal composition of claim 9, wherein said
hydrophobic wetting agent comprises a mono-, di-, or
tri-glyceride of a C1-C30 carboxylic acid.
11. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, comprising
about 1% to about 20% isopropyl myrstate, about 1% to about
20% isohexadecane, about 1.0% to about 10% cyclopentasiloxane,
about 0.001% to about 0.5% acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate
crosspolymer, about 0.4% to about 0.8% caprylic/capric
triglyceride, and about 0.4% to about 0.8% sodium acrylates
copolymer.
12. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, further
comprising a cosmetic additive or adjuvant.
13. The make-up removal composition of claim 1, further
comprising a cosmetic or dermatologic active ingredient.
14. A method of removing make-up from facial tissue or skin,
comprising applying to facial tissue a make-up removal
composition, comprising a mineral oil-free oil phase; a sodium
salt of an acrylate copolymer; a stabilizing polymer; and a
hydrophobic wetting agent, wherein said composition exhibits a
variable shear stress response to increasing shear rates
comprising 20, 40, 80 and 150 1/seconds.

Disclosed are make-up removal compositions, comprising a mineral oil-free oil
phase; a sodium salt of an acrylate copolymer; a stabilizing polymer; and a hydrophobic
wetting agent, and methods of using the compositions to remove make-up from facial tissue
or skin. The disclosed compositions exhibit a rheological profile that features a variable
("up and down" or "increasing and then decreasing") shear stress response to increasing
shear rates, and which is believed to contribute to better performance than known make-up
removal compositions tested.