MULTl COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
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Field of the invention
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic compositions which are applied
onto a solid support to deliver a cosmetic care to a subject in need thereof.
The invention relates more specifically to a single kit comprising at least a first
cosmetic composition and a second cosmetic composition, to a multi-functional surface
solid support, and to methods for preparing same. The invention relates to a method of
cosmetic care, and more specifically to a cosmetic multi-care. These compositions are to
be applied onto distinct targeted zones of a keratinic material of a subject but in close
spatial connection.
Background
Cosmetic compositions are combined with substrates such as nonwovens, paper or
polymeric film to enhance their functionality as well to provide new sensorial experience to
consumers. Wipes, facial mask and pads are typical examples of such combination
products. In general, the substrate is impregnated by one cosmetic composition and
packaged for sale. The functionality of these products mainly depends broadly on the
functionality of the cosmetic composition and more directly on the active ingredients used
in the cosmetic composition for example: Cleansing, makeup removal and refreshing are
targeted in wipes, while for facial mask moisturisation, whitening and antiageing is
generally targeted.
As keratinic structure of the integumentary system varies from region to region of a
subject, the care needed for these different regions are different. Therefore, there is need
for developing a method or process, wherein different regions can be treated
simultaneously according to a specific care benefit for that-each particular region. More
particularly, as the lipo-protein structure of the face varies from region to region, the
nourishment needed for different regions of face are different based on the type of
remuneration required. Therefore there is need for developing a method or process
wherein different regions of face can be treated simultaneously with a particular skincare
composition for skin benefit for that particular region.
The application of different topical cosmetic compositions on required region is quite
apparent but it is not convenient for the consumer to have several distinct cosmetic
compositions and to apply them in appropriate quantity at different regions. Therefore
there is need of a single product which is composed of a multi-cosmetic compositions and
a carrier for them.
Though the process of imbibing multi-cosmetic compositions is already taught in the
prior art; the 'problem of resthcting the interaction of multiple cosmetic compositions with
each other is not being addressed. It is apparent that unwanted interference of one
cosmetic composition in close spatial connection with the other in the substrate will lead at
least to:
1. Reduction of the activity of active ingredients
2. Delivery of active ingredients to unwanted1 undesired areas.
There is need for developing such single products which oppose the interaction
between cosmetic compositions embedded on a single substrate.
The present invention aims to provide a solution to the above mentioned problems.
More particularly, the invention aims to provide a more convenient way for the
consumer to apply several distinct cosmetic compositions, preferably in appropriate
quantity, at different regions. The invention also aims to limit the delivery of active
ingredients to unwanted1 undesired area(s) of a keratinic material of a subject in case of
application of multiple cosmetic compositions in multiple areas by way of a single product
or device. The invention also aims to limit the potential reduction of the activity of active
ingredients in case of application of multiple cosmetic compositions in multiple areas by
way of a single product or device. More generally, the invention aims to overcome the
problems linked to interaction of multiple cosmetic compositions in case of application of
multiple cosmetic compositions in multiple areas by way of a single product or device.
The inventors have identified that increasing the composition viscosity can control
the problem of overlapping of multiple cosmetic compositions in case of application of
multiple cosmetic compositions in multiple skin areas by way of a single product or device.
Such increase in composition viscosity constrains the delivery of actives from substrate to
skin thereby compensating its efficacy. Also by increase in the viscosity of cosmetic
compositions; sensorial profile gets compromised which is unacceptable by consumers for
a substrate based product. Therefore, the invention further aims to overcome the technical
problem of compromising sensorial profile provided by such products while overcoming
other above-recited problems.
The present innovation addresses the solutions of above mentioned problems by
providing an innovative approach.
It has been surprisingly discovered that by controlling the polarity (hydrophilic or
lipophilic character) of two compositions restricts the overlapping of multiple composition
on a single substrate without increasing the viscosity of composition.
Polarity here relates to HLB of formulation calculated by using standard HLB
equation (Griffin's method). Here non-polar formulations present HLB from 4 to 9 whereas
polar formulations present HLB value from 10 to 16.
The invention relates more specifically to the combination, or use in combination, on
a single solid support of at least one first cosmetic composition and at least one second
cosmetic composition, wherein said first cosmetic composition is a polar formulation and
wherein said second cosmetic composition is a non-polar formulation, for providing a
cosmetic care, preferably a cosmetic multi-care. Said solid support is defined as a
manufactured product or device and is not the tegumentary system of a subject. Said
support is suitable for application onto at least one part of the tegumentary system of a
subject, notably to apply or put in contact said cosmetic compositions onto or with said
part of tegumentary system.
The integumentary system is the organ system that protects the body from various
kinds of damage, such as loss of water or abrasion from outside. The system comprises
the skin and its appendages (including hair, scales, feathers, hooves, and nails). The
human skin (integument) is composed of a minimum of 3 major layers of tissue: the
epidermis; dermis; and hypodermis.
The invention more particularly relates to a single kit comprising at least a first
cosmetic composition and a second cosmetic composition, wherein said first cosmetic
composition is a polar formulation and wherein said second cosmetic composition is a
non-polar formulation.
In one embodiment, said polar formulation is selected from the group consisting of
aqueous gels, aqueous dispersions, emulsions with water as continuous phase in the
emulsion.
In one embodiment, said non-polar formulation is selected from the group consisting
of anhydrous silicone formulation, non-silicone based gels or emulsion with oil as
continuous phase in the emulsion.
Polar formulations are essentially those selected from the group consisting of
compositions having a HLB of 10 to 16.
Non-polar formulations are essentially those selected from the group consisting of
compositions having a HLB of 4 to 9.
A method to calculate the HLB of a formulation or phase is found in The HLB
system: A time saving guide to emulsifier selection from IC1 Americas Inc, which is
incorporated here by reference, notably Chapters 1 and 2. Such a method is summarized
as follows:
In a formulation or phase comprising Emulsifiers X and Y, wherein Emulsifiers X (X
representing the HLB value of this emulsifier) is present at C1% by weight in €he
formulation and emulsifiers Y (Y representing the HLB value of this emulsifier) is present
at C2 % by weight in the formulation ; the total HLB of phase or formulation will be:
C 1 *X + C2*Y/ (C 1 +C2)
The emulsion physiological form may for example range from liquid to shear thinning
semi-liquid form, characterized by rotational rheology with a break point at 60 to 70 s-' and
G'-G" cross over at 240 s-' for oscillation rheology (Anton- Paar MR501 rheometer) using
Anton-Paar spindle 2 rheology and oscillation standard measurement protocol,
temperature 25°C (water bath/ peltier). The measurements are preferably performed by
Cyclinder measuring system CC27 geometry. The measurement is preferably done for
Viscosity vs Shear rate where Shear rate is varied from 0 to 1000 s". The break point of
the curve is determined as the point of shear rate (y) where there is a pulse drop in
Viscosity (Q). The oscillation measurements are preferably performed by using the
Frequency Sweep Method on Oscillation Mode of Rheology Measurement. Shear stress
controlled frequency sweeps at a constant shear stress amplitude of r = 1.2 Pa is carried
out in order to study the time-dependent behavior and structural character of the
substance, The angular Frequency may be varied from to lo2 to plot G' and Gn vs
Angular frequency (w) curve.
Suitable aqueous gels (or hydrogels) contain from about 0.1 to 99% water and from
about 1-99.9% of other cosmetic ingredients. Gels consist of a solid three-dimensional
network that spans the volume of a liquid medium and ensnares it through surface tension
effects. Hydrogel is a network of polymer chains that are hydrophilic, sometimes found as
a colloidal gel in which water is the dispersion medium. Hydrogels are highly absorbent
natural or synthetic polymers. Aqueous gels according to the present invention contain
predominantly polar compounds.
Anhydrous compositions generally contain less than about 1% water, in addition to
0.1 to 99.9% oils, and optionally other ingredients.
In one embodiment, said second cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil emulsion.
Emulsions (oil in water or water in oil) generally comprise from about 0.1 to 99.9%
water and from about 0.1 to 99.9% oil.
Oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions are well known in the art of cosmetics.
The composition according to the invention may further contain compounds that are
common in the cosmetics field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, hydrophilic
or lipophilic gelling agents, preserving agents, antioxidants, fragrances, fillers, screening
agents, dyes, lipid vesicles, etc.
The afore mentioned compositions may contain one or more of the following
ingredients.
1. Oils: The term oil refers to a hydrophobic liquid compound at ambient temperature.
Suitable oils include silicones, esters, vegetable oils, synthetic oils, including but
not limited to those set forth herein. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile, and
are preferably in the form of a pourable liquid at room temperature. The term
"volatile" means that the oil has a measurable vapor pressure or a vapor pressure
of at least about 2 mm of mercury at 20" C. The term "non-volatile" means that the
oil has a vapor pressure of less than about 2 mm of mercury at 20" C.
A. Volatile Oils: Suitable volatile oils generally have a viscosity ranging from about
0.5 to 5 centistokes at 25" C and include linear or cyclic silicones, paraffinic
hydrocarbons, or mixtures thereof.
a. Volatile silicones: Cyclic silicones are one type of volatile silicone that may be
used in the composition; also suitable are linear volatile silicones. Cyclic and
linear volatile silicones are available from various commercial sources
including Dow Coming Corporation and General Electric. The Dow Coming
linear volatile silicones are sold under the tradenames Dow Coming 244, 245,
344, and 200 fluids. Suitable branched volatile silicones include alkyl
trimethicones such as methyl trimethicone, ethyl trimethicone, propyl
trimethicone, butyl trimethicone and the like.
b. Volatile Paraffinic Hydrocahons: Examples of volatile paraffinic hydrocarbons
include branched or straight chained hydrocarbons (e.g., C3-C20
hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins, isoeicosane, isohexadecane and
isododecane). Such paraffinic hydrocarbons are available from Presperse
under trade name Permethyl 99A, Permethyl 101A, SlClone SR5.
B. Non-Volatile Oils: A variety of non-volatile oils are also suitable for use in the
compositions of the invention. The non-volatile oils generally have a viscosity of
greater than about 5 to 10 centistokes at 25" C, and may range in viscosity up to
about 1,000,000 centistokes at 25" C. Examples of non-volatile oils include, but
are not limited to:-
a. Esters: Suitable esters are mono-, di-, and triesters. The composition may
comprise one or more esters selected from the group, or mixtures thereof.
Examples of monoester oils that may be used in the compositions of the
invention include hexyl laurate, butyl isostearate, hexadecyl isostearate, cetyl
palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, stearyl heptanoate, isostearyl
6
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isononanoate, steary lactate, stearyl octanoate, stearyl stearate, isononyl
isononanoate, and so on.
Examples of diester oils that may be used in the compositions of the invention
include e.g. diisotearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, dicetearyl
5 dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer
dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, dioctyl malate, and so on.
Examples of triesters include esters of arachidonic, citric, or behenic acids, such as
triarachidin, tributyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, tri ClT13 alkyl citrate, tricaprylin, tricaprylyl
citrate, tridecyl behenate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, tridecyl behenate; or tridecyl cocoate,
10 tridecyl isononanoate, and so on. Esters suitable for use in the composition are further
described in the C.T.F.A. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, under the
classification of "Esters".
6. Hydrocarbon Oils: It may be desirable to incorporate one or more non-volatile
hydrocarbon oils into the composition. Examples of such hydrocarbon oils
15 include C24-28 olefins, C30-45 olefins, C20-40 isoparaffins, hydrogenated
polyisotytene, polyisobutene, polydecene, hydrogenated polydecene, mineral
oil, pentahydrosqualene, squalane, and mixtures thereof.
c. Glyceryl Esters of Fatty Acids: Synthetic or naturally occurring glyceryl esters
of fatty acids, or triglycerides, are also suitable for use in the compositions.
20 Both vegetable and animal sources may be used. Examples of such oils
include castor oil, lanolin oil, caprylic/capric/triglycerides, sweet almond oil,
apricot kernel oil, sesame oil, camelina sativa oil, tamanu seed oil, coconut oil,
corn oil, cottonseed oil, linseed oil, ink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter,
rapeseed oil, soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, and the
25 like.
Also suitable are synthetic or semi-synthetic glyceryl esters, such as fatty acid
mono-, di-, and triglycerides which are natural fats or oils that have been modified, for
example, mono-, di- or triesters of polyols such as glyceryl stearate, diglyceryl
diiosostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6
30 ricinoleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl diisotearate, glyceryl tetraisostearate, glyceryl
trioctanoate, diglyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl
isostearate, PEG castor oils, PEG glyceryl oleates, PEG glyceryl stearates, PEG glyceryl
tallowates, and so on.
d. Non-volatile Silicones: Non-volatile silicone oils both water soluble and water
35 insoluble, are also suitable for use in the composition. Such silicones
preferably have a viscosity ranging from about greater than 5 to 800,000 cst,
preferably 20 to 200,000 cst at 25" C. Suitable water insoluble silicones include
amine functional silicones such as amodimethicone. Examples of non-volatile
silicones include phenyl trimethicone, or trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.
Other examples include alkyl dimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone. Phenyl
trimethicone can be purchased from Dow Coming Corporation under the
tradename 556 Fluid. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone can be purchased
from Wacker under the tradename PDM-1000. Cetyl dimethicone, also referred
to as a liquid silicone wax, may be purchased from Dow Coming as Fluid 2502,
or from Evonik DeGussa under the trade names Abil Wax 9801, or 9814.
Humectants: The compositions of the invention may also contain one or more
humectants. Examples of suitable humectants include glycols, sugars, and the
like. Suitable glycols are in monomeric or polymeric form and include polyethylene
and polypropylene glycols such as PEG 4-200, which are polyethylene glycols
having from 4 to 200 repeating ethylene oxide units; as well alkylene glycols such
as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, and the like. Suitable
sugars, some of which are also polyhydric alcohols, are also suitable humectants.
Examples of such sugars include glucose, fructose, honey, hydrogenated honey,
maltose, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol, xylose, trehalose, and so on. Also
suitable is urea or sugar derivatives.
3. Surfactants: If desired, the compositions of the invention may contain one or more
surfactants or emulsifiers. This is particularly desirable when the composition is in
the form of an aqueous gel or emulsion. If present, the surfactant or emulsifier may
range from about 0.001 to SO%, preferably from about 0.005 to 40%, more
preferably from about 0.01 to 35% by weight of the total composition. Suitable
surfactants or emulsifiers may be silicone or organic, nonionic, anionic, amphoteric
or zwitterionic. Such surfactants include, but are not limited to, those described
herein.
A. Silicone Surfactants: Suitable silicone surfactants include polyorganosiloxane
polymers that have amphiphilic properties, for example contain hydrophilic radicals
and lipophilic radicals. These silicone surfactants may be liquids or solids at room
temperature.
a. Dimethicone Copolyols or Alkyl Dimethicone Copolyols: One type of silicone
surfactant that may be used is generically referred to as dimethicone copolyol
or alkyl dimethicone copolyol. It may be either a water-in-oil or oil-in- water
surfactant having an HydrophilelLipophile Balance (HLB) ranging from about 2
to 18. Preferably the silicone surfactant is a nonionic surfactant having an HLB
ranging from about 2 to 12, preferably about 2 to 10. One type of silicone
surfactant is called, generically, cetyl dimethicone copolyol or lauryl
dimethicone copolyol respectively.
In some cases the number of repeating ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units in
the polymer are also specified, such as a dimethicone copolyol that is also referred to as
PEG- 15lPPG-10 dimethicone, which refers to a dimethicone having substituents
containing 15 ethylene glycol units and 10 propylene glycol units on the siloxane
backbone. It is also possible for one or more of the methyl groups in the above general
structure to be substituted with a longer chain alkyl (e.g. ethyl, propyl, butyl, etc.) or an
ether such as methyl ether, ethyl ether, propyl ether, butyl ether, and the like.
Examples of silicone surfactants are those sold by Dow Corning under the trade
name 5225C Cosmetic composition Aid, having the CTFA name cyclopentasiloxane (and)
PEGIPPG-18/18 dimethicone; or Dow Coming 190 Surfactant having the CTFA name
PEGIPPG-18/18 dimethicone; or Dow Corning 193 Fluid, Dow Corning 5200 having the
CTFA name lauryl PEGIPPG-18/18 methicone; or Abil EM 90 having the CTFA name
cetyl PEGIPPG- 141 14 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt-Evonik; or Abil EM 97 having
the CTFA name bis-cetyl PEGIPPG- 14114 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt-Evonik; or
Abil WE 09 having the CTFA name cetyl PEGIPPG-1011 dimethicone in a mixture also
containing polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate; or KF-601 1 sold by Shin-Etsu
Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-1 1 methyl ether dimethicone; KF-6012 sold by
Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEGIPPG-20122 butyl ether dimethicone; or
KF-6013 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-9 dimethicone; or KF-
6015 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG3 dimethicone; or KF-6016
sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone; or
KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name PEG- 10 dimethicone; or KF-
6038 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the CTFA name lauryl PEG-9
polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.
b. Crosslinked Silicone Surfactants: Crosslinked silicone surfactants, often
referred to as emulsifying elastomers are suitable. Typically these
polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers are crosslinked organopolysiloxanes
that may be obtained by a crosslinking reaction. .Examples,
Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be used include those sold by
Shin-Etsu Silicones under the names KSG-21 , KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31,
KSG-32, KSG-33; KSG-210 which is dimethiconelPEG-10115 crosspolymer
dispersed in dimethicone; KSG-310 which is PEG-1 5 lauryl dimethicone
crosspolymer; KSG-320 which is PEG-15 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer
dispersed in isododecane; KSG-330 (the former dispersed in triethylhexanoin),
KSG-340 which is a mixture of PEG- 10 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer and
5 PEG-1 5 lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer.
Also suitable are polyglycerolated silicone elastomers. Such elastomers include
Shin-Etsu's KSG series, such as KSG-710 which is dimethiconelpolyglycerin-3
crosspolymer dispersed in dimethicone; or lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer
dispersed in a variety of solvent such as isododecane, dimethicone, triethylhexanoin, sold
10 under the Shin-Etsu tradenames KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830, or KSG-840. Also
suitable are silicones sold by Dow Coming under the tradenames 9010, DC901 1.
B. Organic Nonionic Surfactants: The composition may comprise one or more
nonionic organic surfactants. Suitable nonionic surfactants include alkoxylated
alcohols, or ethers, formed by the reaction of an alcohol with an alkylene oxide,
15 usually ethylene or propylene oxide. Preferably the alcohol is either a fatty alcohol
having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples of such ingredients include Steareth 2-
100, which is formed by the reaction of stearyl alcohol and ethylene oxide and the
number of ethylene oxide units ranges from 2 to 100; Beheneth 5-30 which is
formed by the reaction of behenyl alcohol and ethylene oxide where the number of
20 repeating ethylene oxide units is 5 to 30; Ceteareth 2-100, formed by the reaction
of a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohol with ethylene oxide, where the number of
repeating ethylene oxide units in the molecule is 2 to 100; Ceteth 1-45 which is
formed by the reaction of cetyl alcohol and ethylene oxide, and the number of
repeating ethylene oxide units is 1 to 45, Laureth 2-100, formed by the reaction of
25 lauryl alcohol and ethylene oxide where the number of repeating ethylene oxide
units is 2 to 100, and so on.
Other alkoxylated alcohols are formed by the reaction of fatty acids and mono-, di- or
polyhydric alcohols with an alkylene oxide. For example, the reaction products of C6-30
fatty carboxylic acids and polyhydric alcohols which are monosaccharides such as
30 glucose, galactose, methyl glucose, and the like, with an alkoxylated alcohol. Examples
include polymeric alkylene glycols reacted with glyceryl fatty acid esters such as PEG
glyceryl oleates, PEG glyceryl stearate; or PEG polyhydroxyalkanotes such as PEG
dipolyhydroxystearate wherein the number of repeating ethylene glycol units ranges from
3 to 1000. Also suitable are ethoxylated propoxylated derivatives of C6-30 saturated or
3 5 unsaturated fatty acids, for example, Di-PPG-2 myreth-10 adipate, Di-PPG-2 Ceteth-4
adipate, Di-PPG Myristyl Ether Adipate.
Other nonionic surfactants that may be used are formed by the reaction of a
carboxylic acid with an alkyTene oxide or with polymeric ether or monomeric,
homopolymeric, or block copolymeric ethers; or alkoxylated sorbitan and alkoxylated
sorbitan derivatives. For example, alkoxylation, in particular ethoxylation of sorbitan
5 provides polyalkoxylated sorbitan derivatives. Esterification of polyalkoxylated sorbitan
provides sorbitan esters such as the polysorbates. For example, the polyalkyoxylated
sorbitan can be esterified with C6-30, preferably C12-22 fatty acids. Examples of such
ingredients include Polysorbates 20-85, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan
palmitate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan stearate, and so on.
10
4. Structuring Agents: It may also be desirable to include one or more structuring
agents in the composition. Structuring agents will increase the viscosity of, hence
structure, the composition. Structuring agents may be lipophilic or hydrophilic, and
form part of the aqueous or non-aqueous phase of the composition. If present, the
15 structuring agent may range from about 0.1 to 60%, preferably from about 0.5 to
50%, more preferably from about 1 to 45% of the composition. Desirable
structuring agents include silicone elastomers, silicone gums or waxes, natural or
synthetic waxes, polyamides, silicone polyamides and the like.
A. Silicone Elastomers: Examples of suitable silicone elastomers for use in the
20 compositions of the invention may be in the powder form, or dispersed or
solubilized in solvents such as volatile or non- volatile silicones, or silicone
compatible vehicles such as paraffinic hydrocarbons or esters. Examples of
silicone elastomer powders include vinyl dimethiconelmethicone silesquioxane
crosspolymers like Shin-Etsu's KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104,
25 KSP-105, hybrid silicone powders that contain a fluoroalkyl group like Shin-Etsu's
KSP-200 which is a fluoro-silicone elastomer, and hybrid silicone powders that
contain a phenyl group such as Shin-Etsu's KSP-300, which is a phenyl
substituted silicone elastomer; and Dow Coming's DC 9506. Examples of silicone
elastomer powders dispersed in a silicone compatible vehicle include
3 0 dimethiconelvinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by a variety of suppliers
including Dow Corning Corporation under the tradenames 9040 or 9041, 9045, GE
Silicones under the tradename SFE 839, or Shin-Etsu Silicones under the
tradenames KSG-15, 16, 18. KSG- 15 has the CTFA name
cyclopentasiloxaneldimethiconelvinyl dimethicone crosspolymer. KSG-18 has the I
CI name phenyl trimethiconeldimethiconelphenyl vinyl dimethicone crossoplymer.
Silicone elastomers may also be purchased from Grant Industries under the
Gransil trademark. Also suitable are silicone elastomers having long chain alkyl
substitutions such as lauryl dimethiconelvinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied
by Shin Etsu under the tradenames KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43,
and KSG-44.
B. Silicone Gels: The silicone gels may also be purchased from commercial suppliers
such as Grant Industries. Examples of such gels include cyclomethicone (and)
polysilicone-11 (Gransil GCM5), cyclotetrasiloxane(D4) (and) petrolatum (and)
polysilicone-11 (Grangil PS-4), cyclopentasiloxane(D5) (and) petrolatum (and)
polysilicone-I I (Gransil PS-5), cyclopentasiloxane(D5) (and) dimethicone (and)
polysilicone-I 1 (Gransil DMCM-5), cyclotetrasiloxane(D4) (and) dimethicone (and)
polysilicone-I I (Gransil DMCM4), polysilicone-I I (and) isododecane (Gransil
IDS), and cyclomethicone (and) polysilicone-I 1 (and) petrolatum (and)
phytosphingosine (Gransil SPH). Examples of such gels available from General
Electric include cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethiconelvinyl dimethicone
crossploymer (SFE839).
C. Polyamides or silicone Polyamides: Also suitable as oil phase structuring agents
are various types of polymeric compounds such as polyamides or silicone
polyamides. The term silicone polyamide means a polymer comprised of silicone
monomers and monomers containing amide.
20 Examples of polyamide and silicone polyamide are sold by Arizona Chemical under
the tradenames Sylvaclear A200V or A2614V, both having the CTFA name
ethylenediaminelhydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymerlbisdi-CKi8 alkyl amide;
Sylvaclear AF 1900V; Sylvaclear C75V having the CTFA name bis-stearyl
ethylenediaminelneopentyl glycollstearyl hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer;
25 Sylvaclear PA 1200V having the CTFA name Polyamide-3; Sylvaclear PE400V;
Sylvaclear WF 1500V; or Uniclear, such as Uniclear 100VG having the lNCl name
ethylenediaminelstearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer; or ethylenediaminelstearyl dimer
ditallate copolymer
D. Natural or Synthetic Organic waxes: Also suitable as structuring agents may be
3 0 one or more natural or synthetic waxes such as animal, vegetable, or mineral
waxes. Examples of such waxes are polyethylene or synthetic wax, ozokerite wax,
microcrystalline wax, ceresin, or various vegetable waxes such as bayberry,
candelilla, ozokerite, acacia, beeswax, ceresin, cetyl esters, flower wax, citrus
wax, carnauba wax, jojoba wax, japan wax, rice bran, lanolin wax, mink, montan,
bayberry, ouricury, ozokerite, palm kernel wax, paraffin, avocado wax, apple wax,
shellac wax, clary wax, spent grain wax, grape wax, and polyalkylene glycol
derivatives thereof such as PEG6-20 beeswax, or PEG- 12 camauba wax; or fatty
acids or fatty alcohols, including esters thereof, such as hydroxystearic acids (for
example 12-hydroxy stearic acid), tristearin, tribehenin, oleic acid, stearic acid, and
SO on.
E. Mineral Clays: One type of structuring agent that may be used comprises natural
or synthetic mineral clay such as hectorite, bentonite, and quatemized derivatives
thereof, which are obtained by reacting the minerals with a quaternary ammonium
compound, such as stearalkonium bentonite, hectorites, quatemized hectorites
such as Quatemium- 18 hectorite, carbonates such as propylene carbonate,
bentones, and the like.
F. Silica and Silicates: Another type of structuring agent that may be used is silica,
silicates, or silica silylate, and alkali metal or alkaline earth metal derivatives
thereof. These silica and silicates are generally found in the particulate form and
include silica, silica silylate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and the like.
G. Natural Thickening Agents: The natural structuring agents examples but not limited
to, such as cellulose derivatives (methyl celluloses, methyl ethyl celluloses), plant
derived hydrocolloids (alginates, propylene glycol alginate, carrageenates, pectins,
etc), starch derivatives, polysaccharides, for example xanthan gum.
H. Acrylate copolymers and carbomers: Synthetic structuring agents like salts of
polyacrylic acids and polyvinyl alcohols can also be used to provide structure to
the compoistion. E.g Various grades of Carbomer available under trade name
Carbomer from Lubrizol also Alkyl acrylate crosspolymers like Carbopol ultrez 21
available from Lubrizol have lNCl name Acrylatesl C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate
crosspolymer.
5. Sunscreens: It may also be desirable to include one or more sunscreens in the
compositions of the invention. Such sunscreens include chemical UVA or UVB
sunscreens or physical sunscreens in the particulate form.
A. UVA Chemical Sunscreens: If desired, the composition may comprise one or
more UVA sunscreens. The term "UVA sunscreen" means a chemical compound
that blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of about 320 to 400 nm.
Examples of suitable UVA sunscreen compounds of this general formula include
4- methyldibenzoylmethane ; 2-methyldibenzoylmethane ; 4-
isopropyldibenzoylmethane; 4-tert- butyldibenzoylmethane;
2,4dimethyldibenzoylmethane;2,5dimethyldibenzoylmethane;4,4'diisopropylbenzo
ylmethane; 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; 4,4'-
diisopropylbenzoylmethane;2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydiknzoymethane;2-
methyl-5-tert-butyl-4' methoxydibenzoylmethane, and so on. Particularly preferred
is 4-tert-butyl-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane, also referred to as Avobenzone.
Avobenzone is commercial available from Givaudan-Roure under the trademark
Parsol 1789, and Merck & Co. under the tradename Eusolex 9020.
Other types of UVA sunscreens include dicamphor sulfonic acid derivatives, such as
ecamsule, a sunscreen sold under the trade name Mexoryl.
B. UVB Chemical Sunscreens The term "UVB sunscreen" means a compound that
blocks UV radiation in the wavelength range of from about 290 to 320 nm. A
variety of UVB chemical sunscreens exist One particular example of an alphacyano-
beta,betadiphenyl acrylic acid ester is Octocrylene, t. Octocrylene may be
purchased from BASF under the tradename Uvinul N-539.
Other suitable sunscreens include benzylidene camphor, particularly preferred is 4-
methylbenzylidene camphor, which is a lipid soluble UVB sunscreen compound sold the
15 tradename Eusolex 6300 by Merck.
Also suitable are cinnamate derivatives, The preferred compound is ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate, also referred to as Octoxinate or octyl methoxycinnamate. The
compound may be purchased from Givaudan Corporation under the tradename Parsol
MCX, or BASF under the tradename Uvinul MC 80.
20 Also suitable as UVB screening agents are various benzophenone derivatives
Particularly preferred is benzophenone derivative Benzophenone 3 (also referred to as
Oxybenzone), Benzophenone 4 (also referred to as Sulisobenzone), Benzophenone 5
(Sulisobenzone Sodium), and the like. Most preferred is Benzophenone 3. Also suitable
are certain menthyl salicylate
25 Particularly preferred is the compound having the name homomenthyl salicylate
(also known as Homosalate) or menthyl anthranilate. Homosalate is available
commercially from Merck under the tradename Eusolex HMS and menthyl anthranilate is
commercially available from Haarmann & Reimer under the tradename Heliopan. Various
amino benzoic acid derivatives are suitable UVB absorbers Salicylate derivatives are also
30 acceptable UVB absorbers, Particular preferred are octyl salicylate.
If desired, the compositions of the invention may be formulated to have a certain
SPF (sun protective factor).
6. Film Formers: It may be desired to incorporate one or more film formers into the
compositions of the invention. Film formers will generally enhance the film formed
by the cosmetic applied to the skin and, in some cases, promote water resistance
or transfer resistance. If present, such film formers may range from about 0.1 to
50%, preferably from about 0.5 to 40%, more preferably from about 1 to 35% by
weight of the total composition.
Suitable film formers may be oil or water soluble. Particularly preferred water soluble
film former is polyvinyl pryilidone available from ISP under trade name PVP K30.
Oil soluble film formers used herein encompass cross linked silicone resins
generally referred to as MT or MQ resins. Examples of such resins include the MQ resin
trimethylsiloxysilicate or an MT resin called polymethylsilsesquioxane.
Trimethylsiloxysilicate may be purchased from momentive performance chemicals under
trade name SR1000, Polymethylsilsesquioxane may be purchased from Wacker-Chemie
under the tradename MK resin PVP based oil soluble flim formers like PVP Heaxdecene
copolymer available under trade name ANTARON V216 from ISP or PVP Ecosiene
copolymer available under trade name ANTARON V220F can also be used.
7. Preservatives: Non-limiting examples of preservatives include phenoxyethanol,
methyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, isopropyl paraben, isobutyl paraben,
dieizolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolindyl urea, benzalkonium chloride,
benzethonium chloride, phenol, and mixtures thereof.
8. Acidtfying and alkalizing agents: Non-limiting examples of acidtfying agents
include acetic acid, citric acid, glacial acetic acid, malic acid, and proprionic acid. Nonlimiting
examples of alkalizing agent include potassium carbonate, potassium hydroxide,
sodium borate, sodium carbonate, and sodium hydroxide.
9. Buffering agents: Non-limiting examples of buffering agents include sodium
citrate, calcium acetate, potassium phosphate; citric acid.
10. Chelating agents: Non-limiting examples of chelating agents included,
ethylenediamine tetracetic acid (EDTA) and its salts (e.g., tetrasodium EDTA).
11. Coloring additives: Coloring additives are used to add color to the composition. It
can be inoragnic or organic dyes and lakes which may or may not be surface treated. Non
limiting Non-limiting examples of such coloring additives include titanium dioxide, yellow
iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, and caramel, carmine, carbon black, D & C
Red 7 Lake, FD & C Yellow 5 Lake, FD &C Yellow dye, FD & C Blue 1 dye.
12. Dermatologically active agents: It includes agents for caring a keratinic material,
in particular the skin and more specifically agents for treating inflammation, acne,
psoriasis, cutaneous aging, itching, skin color disorders, such as freckles or vitiligo and
skin irritation. Non-limiting examples of such dermatologically active agents include
panthenol, phenol, yeast, retinoids such as retinol and retinoic acid, resorcinol, salicylic
acid, benzoyl peroxide, methyl salicylate, camphor, menthol etc. and vitamins such as
tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid and retinoids such as retinol, retinoic acid,
retinal, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate, a-hydroxy acid, a P-hydroxy acid, or polyhydroxy
acid such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and sunless tanning agents such as 1,3--
dihydroxyacetone and 1,3,4-trihydroxy-2-butanone (erythulose).
13. Whitening active ingredients: Non-limiting examples of skin whitening or
brightening agents include, but not limited to, skin tone changing pigments, reflective
particulate material, soft focus agents and mixtures thereof. The skin tone changing
pigments includes but not limited to. Talc, mica, silica, titanium oxide, zinc oxide and
titanium oxide coated mica, borosilicates; hydrophobically modified zinc oxides;
hydrophobically modified titanium di-oxides, composites of titanium-zinc oxides with
particle size ranging from 0.01 micron to 100 micron.
14. Others skin care agents or cosmetically active ingredients, such as: Antioxidants,
cleansing agents, free radical scavengers, moisturizers, skin tone altering
agents, anti-acne agents, anti-aging agents, anti wrinkle-agents, anti flammatory agents,
skin texture treatment agents, anti-perspirant agents, asthetics, anti-bacterial agents,
nourishing agents, sebum and moisture absorbers and the combinations thereof can be
also used to achieve particular skin care benefit.
Example of anti-oxidants and or anti-inflammatory and/or cooling actives and/or
sweat absorption actives to be used in the invention include, but not limited to, Vitamin C,
Vitamin E, Derivatives of Vitamin C and Vitamin Dl Lycopene, Carotene, Lecithin, Rice
bran lipids, Rice bran oils, menthol; yoghurt, silicated menthols, menthyl lactates; almond
oil; peanut oil; sunflower oil; horse gram powder; olive oil; fumated or non-fumated silica,
hydrophobically modified silica, hydrophylically silica and mixtures/composites thereof.
More particularly said cosmetically active or dermatologically active ingredients
comprise "cosmetic productsn which are such as defined in EC Regulation N01223/2009 of
the European Parliament and of the Council, dated November 30~2,0 09, in relation with
cosmetic products.
According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to at least two cosmetic
compositions to be applied on a single solid substrate, said compositions being in the form
of emulsions.
According to the invention the first cosmetic composition is selected from the group
consisting of OMI emulsions and the second cosmetic composition is selected from the
group consisting of W10 emulsions. The polarity difference between OMI (Oil-in-water)
and WIO (water-in-oil) emulsion restricts the interaction of these compositions especially
when they are applied in close spatial proximity or in contact to each other onto the
surface of a single solid support suitable for application onto the skin and delivering one or
more cosmetically or demagogically active ingredients contained in said cosmetic
compositions.
According to a particular embodiment, the polar cosmetic composition is an oil-inwater
emulsion comprising or consisting of, in weight percent with respect to the total
5 composition weight:
a) From 50 to 99% wlw; more specifically from 60 to 95% and even more specifically
from 70 to 95% of one or more aqueous phases,
b) From 1 to 5% of one or more oil in water emulsifiers with HLB ranging from 8-16,
c) Optionally from 0.5 to 2% of one or more emulsifiers with HLB ranging from 3-7;
d) From 0.001 to 5% of one or more cosmetically active andlor dermatologically
active ingredients, more preferably soluble in an aqueous phase;
e) From 0.1 to 5% wlw, more specifically 0.1 to 4%; even more specifically from 0.1 %
to 2% of one or more rheology modulating thickening polymers,
9 From 1 to 30%, more specifically from 5 to 10% and even more specifically from 2
to 5 % of one or more oils or oil blends of mineral andlor vegetable andlor
synthetic origin.
According to a particular embodiment, the non-polar cosmetic composition is a water
in oil emulsion comprising or consisting of, in weight percent with respect to the total
20 composition weight:
- from about 20 to 70% of one or more aqueous phases,
- from about 1 to 10% of one or more oil in water emulsifiers with HLB ranging from
3-7,
- optionally from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more oil in water emulsifiers with HLB
d
\ 25 ranging from 8-1 3,
- from about 0.001 to 20% of one or more cosmetically or dermatologically active
ingredients, more preferably soluble in a non-aqueous phase;
- from about 0.1 to 20% of one or more rheology modulating thickening polymers,
I - from about 0.1 to 80% of one or more oils or oil blend of mineral andlor vegetable
30 andlor synthetic origin.
Preferably said aqueous phase in itself is a blend of water and humectants such as
polyhydric alcohols, classically described as entities with linear or branch chain
hydrophobic moieties with multiple substitution of OH groups. Examples of the same are
given but not limited to propylene glycol, butylenes glycol, glycerine, etc.
3 5 Preferably water is in the range 50-99 % of the total composition weight, more
preferably in the range 60-85% and even more specifically in the range 70-75%.
More particularly said oil in water emulsifier with HLB ranging from 8-13 is selected
from the group consisting of waxes, powders, liquids, gums, resins soluble or dispersible
in aqueous phase with or without the influence of temperature. The structural classification
of the same ascribed as linear andlor branch chain hydrophic backbone ranging from C8-
C22 or blend thereof with functional groups for example such as as stearates and/or
seteareths andlor ceteosteareths andlor palmitates andlor glycerides and/or linear
siloxanes andlor branched siloxanes.
More particularly said rheology modulating thickening polymers is containing linear
andlor branched chain cellulosic andlor hydroxyl ethyl cellulosic andlor acrylic groups that
imparts a characteristic rheology to the formulation ascribed above with a break point in
rotational rheology curve at 60-150 s-' and a G1-G" crossover in oscillation rheology at
150-200 s-' (measured with Anton-Paar MR501 rheometer) compositionally. This
measurement is performed using Anton-Paar spindle 2 rheology and oscillation standard
measurement protocol, temperature 25°C (water bathlpeltier).
More particularly said oil or oil blend is a polar, semi-polar or non-polar containing
saturated andlor unsaturated hydrophobic backbone compound or any mixture thereof.
Water soluble (or soluble in aqueous phase) cosmetically active or dermatologically
active ingredients comprise in general water soluble anti-ageing and/or skin remuneration
andlor protein andlor hydrolysate thereof and/or skin moisturizing active ingredients
andlor soothing active ingredients and/or whitening active ingredients.
Oily soluble (or soluble in non-aqueous phase) cosmetically active or
derrnatologically active ingredients comprise in general organic compounds containing
one or more aromatic rings or natural extracts containing same, such as for example
resveratrol, dihydromyricetin, taxifolin (dihydroquercetin), polyphenol, arctiin, quercetin,
catechin oxyresvenox, Coenzyme Q10, licochalcones A, green tea extract or soy extract.
The present invention also relates to a method for limiting interactions between at
least two cosmetic compositions to be delivered onto the same surface of a solid support,
said method comprising selecting a first composition having a polarity different from a
second composition, said first and second composition having preferably essentially the
same viscosity.
In one embodiment, said first cosmetic composition is a polar formulation and said
second cosmetic composition is a non-polar formulation.
The invention also relates to a kit-of-parts comprising (i) single kit comprising at least
a first cosmetic composition and a second cosmetic composition, wherein said first
cosmetic composition is a polar formulation and wherein said second cosmetic
composition is a non-polar formulation, preferably as defined according to the invention,
and (ii) a multi-functional surface solid support (1) comprising at least one functional
surface defining n+l functional areas (10, 20, 30), wherein n is an integer equal or greater
than 1, wherein at least a first functional area (1 0 or 20) and a second functional area (30)
present a front line in common (40 or 50).
5 More particularly, said first functional area (10 or 20) is designed to support said at
least one first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) and deliver a first cosmetic care to a first
targeted zone of a keratinic material in need of said first cosmetic care; and wherein said
second functional area (30) is designed to support said at least one second cosmetic
composition (31) and deliver a second cosmetic care to a first targeted zone of a keratinic
10 material in need of said second cosmetic care.
In one embodiment, said kit-of-parts is packaged in the form of a single article (or
packaging) comprising said multi-functional surface solid support and said cosmetic
compositions, optionally wherein said multi-functional surface solid support and one or
more cosmetic compositions are separated by one or more physical separations.
15 In one embodiment, said kit-of-parts is packaged in the form of multiple individual
articles (or packaging), each article of said kit-of-parts comprising one or more of said
multi-functional surface solid support and said cosmetic compositions. Said multiple
individual articles may be bought simultaneously or sequentially, notably for collecting all
elements of said kit-of-parts (at least said multi-functional surface solid support and said
20 cosmetic compositions). Simultaneous buying of multiple individual articles notably
includes buying said multiple individual articles in a single buying act. Sequentially buying
of multiple individual articles notably includes buying said multiple individual articles in two
or more buying acts.
The invention also relates to a multi-functional surface solid support (1) comprising
25 at least one functional surface defining n+l functional areas (10, 20, 30), wherein n is an
integer equal or greater than 1, wherein at least a first functional area (10 or 20) and a
second functional area (30) present a front line in common (40 or 50), wherein said solid
support (1) comprises at least one first cosmetic composition (11 or 21) on said first
functional area (10 or 20) and at least one second cosmetic composition (31) on said
30 second functional area (30), wherein said first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) is a polar
formulation and wherein said second cosmetic composition (31) is non-polar formulation.
The invention also relates to a method for preparing a multi-functional surface solid
support (I), said method comprising:
(i) providing a solid support (1) comprising at least one functional surface defining
35 n+l functional areas (10, 20, 30), wherein n is an integer equal or greater than 1, wherein
at least a first functional area (10 or 20) and a second functional area (30) present a
common front line (40 or SO),
(ii) applying at least one first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) on said first functional
area (10 or 20) and applying at least one second composition (31) on said second
functional area (30), wherein said first cosmetic composition (11 or 21) is a polar
formulation and wherein said second cosmetic composition (31) is non-polar formulation,
and
(iii) collecting a multi-functional surface solid support (1) comprising at least one first
cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) on said first functional area (10 or 20) and at least one
second composition (31) on said second functional area (30).
In one embodiment, said n+l functional areas (10, 20, 30) cover partially or
essentially completely said multi-functional surface.
According to a specific embodiment n is 1.
According to a specific embodiment n is 2.
According to a specific embodiment n is 3.
According to a specific embodiment n is 4.
According to a specific embodiment n is not greater than 5.
Any way to support onto said solid support (which also means in this sense "to
include into") said cosmetic composition is appropriate. For example cosmetic
compositions are embedded into or deposited (including spreading) onto said solid
support. One specific embodiment relates to cosmetic compositions embedded into said
solid support. This term should be interpreted broadly without any particular limitation on
the way the composition is supported ontolbylin the support.
In one embodiment, said solid support may comprise n+l distinct cosmetic
compositions. When n is greater than or equal to 2, said support may comprise either
distinct or same or some distinct and some same cosmetic compositions. For example,
one embodiment is a solid support comprising 3 functional areas and 2 distinct
compositions. Another embodiment is a solid support comprising 3 functional areas and 3
distinct compositions. In the former case, adjacent functional areas do not comprise the
same composition. In other words, a functional area comprising a polar cosmetic
composition is adjacent to one or more areas each comprising a non-polar cosmetic ,
composition.
Preferably, functional areas are designed so that functional areas comprising the
same polarity type compositions do not have a common front line.
The present invention also relates a method of cosmetic care comprising applying
said multi-functional surface solid support according to the invention onto at least one
keratinic material of a subject.
In one embodiment, said cosmetic care is a cosmetic multi-care provided to at
least two targeted zones of at least one keratinic material of said subject, wherein said
first cosmetic composition provides a first cosmetic care to a first targeted zone of said
subject's keratinic material in need of said first cosmetic care and said second
composition provides a second cosmetic care to a second targeted zone of said subject's
keratinic material in need of said second cosmetic care.
According to one specific embodiment, a multi-functional surface solid support is
an applicator body as defined in Indian patent application filed on July 25, 2013 under
number 2215lDEU2013. Applicator bodies are for example selected among face masks,
wipes and pads. For instance, a face mask is an applicator body which is cut in to the
shape face with slits for eyes, nose and mouth and is impregnated with a cosmetic
product depending on targeted functionality.
The functionality of such a solid support mainly depends on the activities of the
active ingredients. Moisturisation, whitening and anti-aging are the most common
functionalities for such a solid support, especially face mask.
The most common format of applicator bodies distribution is folded and
impregnated substrate, packed in a single use sachet. In some cases, applicator bodies
are distributed in the format of a roll pack. Such a roll pack comprises a substrate roll with
a plurality of applicator bodies of a predetermined shape, for example a plurality of face
masks. A cosmetic product can be applied on such an applicator body after its detaching
from the roll pack.
The body surface of the user is advantageously the skin of the user, in particular
the skin located on a member of the user such as an arm or a leg, or preferably, the skin
on the face of the user. The shape of the applicator body is defined by its outer contour
which depends on its targeted functionality and targeted zones.
In a particular embodiment, the body applicator 1 is a face mask illustrated in
figure 1. In this case, an outer contour 5 of the mask defines an oval shape. Alternatively,
it defines a polygonal shape. For such a face mask, the surface area of the oval shape is
comprised between 0.25 cm2 and 500 cm2, preferably between 200 cm2 and 450 cm2.
Advantageously, the body applicator 1 comprises inner cavities. For the mask
shown in figure 1, such inner cavities comprises two through openings 22 intended to be
placed facing the eyes of the user, and another through opening 24 intended to be placed
facing the mouth of the user.
The mask also comprises a slit 26 delimiting a flapper intended to be pushed away
by the nose of the user, to delimit a nose insertion through opening.
In a variant, the oval shape of the face mask is completed with shapes facing the
neck andlor ear hangings of the user.
In another variant, the applicator body 1 is formed into a patch or a garment having a
volume, for example a sock, glove or sleeve.
The amount of the cosmetic compositions 11, 21, 31 to be applied is comprised
between 200% and 800 %, more preferably between 400% and 600%, of the applicator
body 1 weight.
Advantageously, the solid support is water insoluble. By 'water insolublen, it is meant
that the solid support does not dissolve or readily break apart upon immersion in water.
Advantageously, the solid support comprises at least a fibrous layer. It comprises for
example woven fibers, knitted fibers, non-woven fibers orland a polymeric mesh.
Advantageously, the solid support comprises fibrous layer non-woven fibers. In a
preferred embodiment, the solid support is made of a non-woven material.
By "non-wovenn, it is meant, in the sense of this invention, a solid support including
fibers in which the individual fibers or filaments are arranged in a disordered manner in a
sheet-like structure and which are neither woven nor knit. The fibers of the nonwoven
body are generally linked to one another, under the effect of a mechanical action (for
example, by needle-punching, air jet, water jet, etc.), or under the effect of a thermal
action, or by adding a binder. Such a non-woven material is, for example, defined by
standard IS0 9092, as a web or a sheet of fibers oriented directionally or at random,
bound by friction andlor cohesion andlor adhesion, excluding paper or products obtained
by weaving, knitting, tufting or stitching incorporating threads or bonding filaments. A nonwoven
material differs from a paper by the length of the fibers used. In paper, the fibers
are shorter. However, there are nonwoven materials based on cellulose fbers that are
produced by wet process and have short fibers as in paper. The difference between a
nonwoven material and a paper is generally the absence of a hydrogen bond between the
fibers in a nonwoven material. The fibers can be natural fibers, synthetic fibers or mixtures
thereof. Non limiting examples of synthetic fibers are Polyester, Polyolefin (Polypropylene,
Polyethylene), Polyamide (Nylon 6, Nylon 66), Viscose, Acrylic fibers, Modacrylic fibers,
Poly vinylidene chloride and Spandex. Example of natural fiber includes cellulosic fibers
(such as wood pulp, cotton, hemp, jute, and flax fibers), silk, and keratin (such as wool
and camel hair fibers). The solid support typically has a denslty of 30 glm2 to 400 gIm2,
preferably 40 glm2 to 80 glm2.
Each cosmetic product 11, 21, 31 is intended to be applied in a functional area (10,
20, 30) of the applicator body 1.
According to a particular embodiment, the applicator body 1, or more generally said
solid support, is a triple action face mask of shape similar to the shape of the mask shown
in figure 1. In this case, the cosmetic product 11 is for example an anti-oxidant compound
and the corresponding targeted zone is the upper forehead of the user's face.
The cosmetic product 31 is for example an anti-ageing compound and the
corresponding targeted zone is the eye region of the user's face.
The cosmetic product 21 is for example a protein hydrolysate compound and the
corresponding targeted zone is the lower region of the user's face.
According to a specific embodiment, at least one or any cosmetic compositions
cover essentially the whole surface of the functional areas of the solid support.
The invention limits interactions of cosmetic compositions which do not overlap each
other when the solid support is manipulated, notably for purpose of performing a cosmetic
care.
In the figure
Figures 1 and 2 relate to a single tri-active face mask comprising on its surface three
cosmetic compositions.
Examples:
Example 1 - Triactive face mask
Three cosmetic compositions were applied onto a single tri-active face mask (1).
The compositions were applied parallel to each other, as described below by reference to
figure 1. In the upper (10) and lower (20) regions; o h emulsions (transparentltranslucent
in nature) that could contain water soluble actives needed for skin
moisturisationlsoothinghhitening were incorporated.
The middle portion (30) of the mask (1) contains a wlo emulsion which contains an
oil soluble active, for example but not limited to vitamin E. To make it user perceivable all
the regions had a different color, which without application of the present invention shows
a smudging within the different regions, notably when manipulated for purpose of
performing the cosmetic care by application of the tri-active mask onto a user face.
2
Cosmetic
composition: 1
(ON emulsion
shown in red
colour)
Cosmetic
composition: 2
(WlO emulsion
shown in white
colour)
PHASE
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-B
P-B
P-B
P-C
P-C
P-C
P-D
-
PHASE
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-B
P-B
P-C
P-C
P-C
P-D
P-D
INGREDIENTS
WATER
DlSODlUM EDTA
GLYCERIN
METHYLPARABEN
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
PANTHENOL
SODIUM HYALURONATE
NlACl NAMIDE
AMMONIUM OLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE
DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL
PONCEAU 4R
GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) CETEARETH-12
(and) CETEARETH-20 (and) CETEARYL ALCOHOL
CETEARETH-20
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE
FRAGRANCE
Total
INGREDIENTS
WATER
DlSODlUM EDTA
GLYCERIN
PHENOXY ETAHNOL
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
PANTHENOL
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (AND) DIMETHICONOL
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE
CYCLOPENTASILOXANE (AND) PEGIPPG 1811 8
DIMETHICONE
C30-45 ALKYL METHICONE (AND) C30-45 OLEFIN
ETHYLMETHOXY CINNAMATE
TOCOPHEROL ACETATE
FRAGRANCE
Total
QUANTITY (%)
74.17
0.05
5.00
0.30
6.00
0.25
0.25
3.00
0.15
4.00
0.05
1.50
0.44
4.04
0.10
100.00
QUANTITY (%)
35.00
0.05
5.00
0.30
6.00
0.50
10.00
25.55
12.00
3.00
2.00
0.50
0.10
100.00
QUANTITY (%)
74.43
0.05
5.00
0.30
6.00
0.25
0.25
3.00
0.50
4.00
0.04
0.10
1.50
0.44
4.04
0.10
1 00.00
INGREDIENTS
. - >
WATER
DlSODlUM EDTA
GLYCERIN
METHYLPARABEN
BUNLENE GLYCOL
PANTHENOL
SODIUM HYALURONATE
NlAClNAMlDE
AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL
TAURATE
DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL
FD & C BLUE 1
FD & C YELLOW N0.5
GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) CETEARETH-
12 (and) CETEARETH-20 (and) CETEARYL
ALCOHOL
CETEARETH-20
ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE
FRAGRANCE
Total
Cosmetic
composition:3
(OM emulsion
shown in green
colour)
PHASE
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-A
P-B
P-B
P-B
P-B
P-C
P-C
P-C
P-D
The different phases P-A, P-B, P-C and D are formulated according to the skilled
- -.- - - - ---- - - -..k . -- .---- -
*&on knowfedge.
Compositions 1 and 3 are polar (ONV) and composition 2 is non-polar (WIO).
Figure: 1 shows an example of impregnated mask (1) where substrate is cellulosic
nonwoven, which was impregnated by 3 different formulations (Red-whitegreen) in three
parallel functional areas (10, 20, 30). In Figure 2, (1) mask is hanged in vertical position
for 15 minutes and is indicative of no dripping or overlap of three formulations within the
10 mask, which is surprising. Accordingly, the present invention enables to overcome the
problems set forth above.
The sensorial experience or profile does not get compromised.
Composition no
1
2
3
composition viscosity
measured using PRO
RHEO R 180 viscometer at
25 C with M2 spindle
1 10&5 Pas
160 i 5 Pas
110k5 Pa.s

CLAIMS
1 1.- A single kit comprising at least a first cosmetic composition and a second
I cosmetic composition, wherein said first cosmetic composition is a polar formulation and
1 5 wherein said second cosmetic composition is a non-polar formulation.
2.- The kit of claim 1, wherein said polar formulation is selected from the group
consisting of aqueous gels, aqueous dispersions, emulsions with water as continuous
phase in the emulsion.
10
3.- The kit of claim 1, wherein said non-polar formulation is selected from the group
consisting of anhydrous silicone formulation, non-silicone based gels or emulsion with oil
as continuous phase in the emulsion.
4.- The kit of claim 1, wherein said first cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water
emulsion and wherein said second cosmetic composition is a water-in-oil emulsion.
5.- A kit-of-parts comprising (i) single kit comprising at least a first cosmetic
composition and a second cosmetic composition, wherein said first cosmetic composition
20 is a polar formulation and wherein said second cosmetic composition is a non-polar
formulation, preferably as defined in any one of claims 2 to 4, and (ii) a multi-functional
surface solid support (1) comprising at least one functional surface defining n+l functional
areas (10, 20, 30), wherein n is an integer equal or greater than I, wherein at least a first
functional area (10 or 20) and a second functional area (30) present a front line in
25 common (40 or 50),
6.- The kit of claim 5, wherein said first functional area (10 or 20) is designed to
support said at least one first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) and deliver a first cosmetic
v care to a first targeted zone of a keratinic material in need of said first cosmetic care; and
30 wherein said second functional area (30) is designed to support said at least one second
cosmetic composition (31) to deliver a second cosmetic care to a second targeted zone of
a keratinic material in need of said second cosmetic care.
7.- A method for limiting interactions between at least two cosmetic compositions to
3 5 be delivered onto the same surface of a solid support, said method comprising selecting a
first composition having a polarity different from a second composition.
2 3 DEC 2013
8.- The method of claim 7, wherein said first cosmetic composition is a polar
formulation and wherein said second cosmetic composition is a non-polar formulation.
5 9.- A multi-functional surface solid support (1) comprising at least one functional
surface defining n+l functional areas (10, 20, 30), wherein n is an integer equal or greater
than 1, wherein at least a first functional area (1 0 or 20) and a second functional area (30)
present a front line in common (40 or 50), wherein said solid support (1) comprises at
least one first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) on said first functional area (10 or 20) and
10 at least one second cosmetic composition (31) on said second functional area (30),
wherein said first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) is a polar formulation and wherein said
second cosmetic composition (31) is non-polar formulation.
10.- A method for preparing a multi-functional surface solid support (I), said method
15 comprising:
(i) providing a solid support (1) comprising at least one functional surface defining
n+l functional areas (10, 20, 30), wherein n is an integer equal or greater than I, wherein
at least a first functional area (10 or 20) and a second functional area (30) present a
common front line (40 or 50),
20 (ii) applying at least one first cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) on said first functional
area (10 or 20) and applying at least one second composition (31) on said second
functional area (30), wherein said first cosmetic composition (11 or 21) is a polar
formulation and wherein said second cosmetic composition (31) is non-polar formulation,
and
25 (iii) collecting a multi-functional surface solid support (1) comprising at least one first
cosmetic composition (1 1 or 21) on said first functional area (10 or 20) and at least one
second composition (31) on said second functional area (30).
11 .- The method of claim 10, wherein said n+l functional areas (1 0, 20, 30) cover
3 0 partially or essentially completely said multi-functional surface.
12.- A method of cosmetic care comprising applying said multi-functional surface
solid support according to claim 9 onto at least one keratinic material of a subject.
3 5 13.- The method of claim 12, wherein said cosmetic care is a cosmetic multi-care
provided to at least two targeted zones of at least one keratinic material of said subject,
wherein said first cosmetic composition provides a first cosmetic care to a first targeted
zone of said subject's keratinic material in need of said first cosmetic care and said
second composition provides a second cosmetic care to a second targeted zone of said
subject's keratinic material in need of said second cosmetic care.
5
Dated this 23/12/2013
WP (NE SRNASTAVA)
OF REMFRY & SAGAR
ATTORNEY FOR THE APPLICANT[S]