Multi -phase anhydrous composition comprising at least one oil, at
least one polyol and non ionic surfactants, and cosmetic process
thereof
The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for
treating keratin materials, such as keratin fibres, in particular human
keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising at least one oily phase (A),
at least one anhydrous non-oily phase (B), at least one non ionic
10 surfactant (i) having an HLB higher than 9 and at least one non ionic
surfactant (ii) having an HLB less than or equal to 9 in a specific
ratio, wherein said phases (A) and (B) are visually distinct from each
other.
The invention also concerns a process for treating keratin
15 materials, such as keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres
such as the hair, and a use for hair care employing the said anhydrous
composition.
Many people are unsatisfied with the way their hair looks, and
have difficulty in styling it. Hair is generally damaged and embrittled
20 by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad
weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as
brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or
relaxing. Hence, hair is damaged by these various factors and may
over time become dry, coarse or dull, and less manageable.
25 Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to
resort to hair care products using compositions that condition the hair
appropriately, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in
terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural
feel and good disentangling properties.
30 These hair care compositions may be, for example.
conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be
2
in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less
thick.
Consumers seek more and more hair care compositions that arc
not only able to confer good cosmetic properties to the hair but also
5 have an overall pleasant aspect.
Unfortunately most of the available hair care compositions
often fail to have an aesthetically pleasing appearance because of their
texture which can be white and creamy. In other words, there is a need
to develop hair care compositions having an attractive aspect in order
10 to stimulate visually potential consumers.
Furthermore, oils arc commonly used as conditioning agents in
hair care cosmetic compositions in order to provide conditioning
effects for hair, in particular to provide softness and brightness to dry
or sensitive hair. These compositions can be used before or after the
r
15 application of shampoos. In tropical countries such as India, these
compositions arc preferably used before the application of shampoos
in order to nourish the hair.
For example, the patent application WO 2013/092293 describes
the use of a unique blend of vegetable oil and mineral oil along with
20 silicones in order to provide smooth and manageable hair feci, without
conferring a sensation of stickiness on hair and hand.
In the same manner, the document US 6989148 describes the
use of a water immiscible solvent with one or more surfactants, which
on dilution form a micro- or macro-emulsion in situ to deliver agents
25 otherwise reactive when in prolonged contact with water. These agents
are capable of conditioning the hair.
Furthermore, the patent US 4438095 discloses a non-detergent.
non-foaming cosmetic composition for conditioning the hair consisting
essentially of two separate liquid phases, one of which being aqueous
30 and in which at least one cationic polymer is dissolved.
However, these cosmetic compositions are often difficult to be
rinsed off with water which implies that it may be difficult to remove
such compositions from the hair.
3
Moreover, these cosmetic compositions still give unsatisfied
cosmetic properties to the hair, namely in terms of smoothness,
lightness, stickiness and manageability.
Hence since such cosmetic compositions can be difficult to be
5 removed from the hair they often leave a sticky feeling to the hair.
Therefore, there is a real need to develop compositions, for
example cosmetic compositions for treating keratin fibres, in
particular human keratin fibres such as the hair that do not have the
combination of drawbacks described above, i.e. which can be easily
10 rinsed off and can improve the cosmetic properties of said fibers,
namely by affording them smoothness, lightness and manageability,
while having an attractive aspect in order to stimulate visually
potential consumers.
The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that it is possible
15 to formulate anhydrous compositions having at least two visually
distinctive phases, wherein one of the phases is an oily phase
containing at least one oil and the other distinct phase is an anhydrous
non-oily phase containing at least one polyol, and two different non
ionic surfactants in a specific ratio as described below that are capable
20 to lead to the desired properties.
In particular, it has been found that such anhydrous
compositions are easily rinsed off, namely with water, which means
that they can be easily removed from hair, especially before the
application of shampoos.
25 Furthermore, such anhydrous compositions can contain both
hydrophobic and hydrophilic active agents which could be helpful for
conditioning the hair. Thus the anhydrous compositions can constitute
a good medium for water soluble active agents.
The anhydrous compositions of the present invention also
30 improve the cosmetic properties conferred to the hair, namely by
affording it smoothness, softness, lightness and more manageability
while at the same time leaving it less sticky. In particular, such
compositions leave improved sensory benefits both on hair and hand.
4
In- other words, the anhydrous compositions arc able to provide
improved conditioning to the hair and self-cmulsification when diluted
with water.
The anhydrous compositions according to the invention may
5 have multiple liquid phases, preferably two liquid phases. Kach liquid
phase can provide any independent visual effect. Thus, the multi liquid
phases confer unique appearances to the anhydrous compositions of
the present invention. In other words, the anhydrous compositions
have an overall attractive aspect to the consumers.
10 On the other hand, the multiple liquid phases can disappear
when mixing them by, for example, shaking the anhydrous composition
of the invention to form a uniform phase. Thus for example, if the
refractive indexes of the multiple liquid phases are similar to each
other, it is possible for the uniform phase to be transparent. The
15 uniform phase can separate into the multiple liquid phases again by
leaving it, without any shear force, in a certain period of time such as
from few minutes to several hours.
The present invention relates especially to an anhydrous
composition comprising:
20 - at least one oil phase (A) comprising at least one oil,
at least one anhydrous non-oil phase (B) comprising at least
one polyol,
at least one non ionic surfactant (i) having an HLB higher
than 9
25 - at least one non ionic surfactant (ii) having an IILB less
than or equal to 9 in a quantity of at least 0.2% by weight
relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition;
wherein the non ionic surfactant (i) and the non ionic
surfactant (ii) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from
30 5.5 to 12.5, and
wherein said phases (A) and (B) are visually distinctive from
each other.
5
5
10
15
20
25
30
The terms "visually distinctive phases" according to the
present invention mean that theses phases may be distinguished from
each other to the naked eye by a human being, contrary to phases
forming emulsions or dispersions of homogeneous particles. More
particularly, none of the phases is in the form of globules.
Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises two phases
(A) and (B) that are visually distinctive from each other.
As previously mentioned, the anhydrous composition of the
present invention is optically clear.
According to the present invention, the terms "optically clear'*
means than turbidity is less than 300 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity
Units), which is the unit of measure for the turbidity or ha/e of a
liquid. More preferably, the optically clear anhydrous compositions of
the invention have a turbidity ranging from 0,05 to 100 NTU, better
from 1 to 80 NTU.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous
composition" means a composition containing only a small amount of
water, preferably no water (0%). Thus the amount of water may be 2%
by weight or less, preferably 1.5% by weight or less, more preferably
1% by weight or less relative to the total weight of the said
composition. It is particularly preferable that the anhydrous
composition according to the present invention contains no water.
The present invention also relates to a process for cosmetically
treating keratin materials, such as keratin fibres, in particular human
keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to the said
materials of the anhydrous composition according to the invention.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of
the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description
and the example that follows.
In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the
limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in
the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to ...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present
description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
35
6
Oily phase (A)
The anhydrous composition comprises at least one oil phase
(A) including at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used in
5 combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different
type of oils may be used.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oil" refers
to a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at
atmospheric pressure (760 mmllg, i.e. 1.013x 105 Pa).
10 The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound thai is
insoluble in water at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric
pressure (760 mmllg, i.e. 1.013x 105 Pa), i.e. with a weight solubility
of less than 5%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferentially
less than 0.1%. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon
15 chain containing at least six carbon atoms or at least one sequence of
at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances arc
generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and
pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid
petroleum j e l ly or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane.
20 Preferably, the oil phase (A) of the anhydrous composition of
the present invention is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) under
atmospheric pressure (760 mmllg, i.e. 1.013* 105 Pa).
Preferably, the oil used in the present invention docs not
contain a poly alky lenated or polygycerolated group or a sali ficd
25 carboxylic group.
The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of
animal or plant origin, synthetic glycerides, esters of fatty alcohols
and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils and synthetic
glycerides, fatty alcohols, non salified fatty acids, silicone oils and
30 aliphatic hydrocarbons. These fatty materials may be volatile or non
volatile.
Preferably, the oil is selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons.
plant oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids
other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glycerides, or mixtures
7
thereof. More preferably the oil is selected from the group consisting
of aliphatic hydrocarbons, in particular mineral oils.
As examples of aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may be made
of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oils
5 (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes,
and the like; hydro genated polyisobutenc, isoeicosan, polydecencs,
hydro genated polyisobutenes such as Pari cam, and dcccnc/butenc
copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of other aliphatic hydrocarbons, mention may also
10 be made of linear or branched, or possibly cyclic Ce-Cu, lower
alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hcxanc, undecane,
do de cane, tridecanc and isoparaffins such as isohcxadccanc and
isodecane.
As example of synthetic glycerides, mention may be made of,
15 for instance, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold
by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names
Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel.
t
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, tor
example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane.
20 methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogcnpolysiloxanc, and the like;
cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamcthylcyclotctrasiloxane.
decamcthylcyclopentasiloxanc, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxanc, and
the like; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for
25 example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, sunflower oil,
apricot oil, soybean oil, arara oil, hazelnut oil, corn oil, mink oil,
olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflowcr oil, jojoba
oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oilpeanut
oil, and mixtures thereof.
30 As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for
example, squalene, perhydrosqualene and squalane.
As examples of the esters of fatty alcohols and/or of fatty
acids, which are advantageously different from the animal or plant oils
as well as the synthetic alvcerides mentioned above, mention may be
8
made especially of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and of saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or
polyalcohols, the total earbon number of the esters being greater than
5 or equal to 1 0.
Among the monoestcrs, mention may be made of dihydroabictyl
behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl bchenate; cctyl lactate; C12-
Ci5 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linolcyl lactate;
oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octy]
10 octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostcaratc; isocetyl
laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodccyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl
isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinolcatc; myristyl
stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhcxyl isononate; octyl palmitaic;
octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl crucatc; olcyl crucate;
15 ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldccyl
palmitate, alkyl myri states such as isopropyl, butyl, cctyl,
2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myri state, hexyl stearate, butyl
stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl
laurate.
20 Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22
dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters o\'
mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or
pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
The following may especially be mentioned: diethyl sebacale,
25 diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipatc; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl
ad i pate; di isostearyl adipatc; dioctyl male ate; glyceryl undccylcnate:
octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinolcate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrap el argon ate;
pentaerythrityl tctraisos tear ate; pentaerythrityl tctraoctanoate;
30 propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicapratc; tridecyl
crucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; tri olcyl citrate;
propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distcarates.
9
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl,
isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitatc, 2-cthylhexyl paltnitatc,
2-octyldecyl palmitatc, alkyl myristatcs such as isopropyl, butyl, cctyl
or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stcarate, butyl stearatc, isobutyl
5 stearatc; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hcxyldccyl laurate, isononyl
isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
The oil phase may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters
and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled
that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydro carbon-based
10 compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without
aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon
atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include
15 sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fructose, maltose,
mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof,
especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instan.ee
methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from
20 the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars
described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or
non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
25 The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from
mono-, di-, tri-, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates,
laurates, palmitates, myri states, behenates, coco at es, s tear ate s,
linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof
30 such as, especially, oleo-palmitate, oleo-stcarate and palmito-stcarate
mixed esters.
It is more particularly preferred to use monoesters and diesters
and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates,
10
stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linolcatcs, 1 i no le nates and
oleostearates.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerehol, which .is a
5 methylglucose dioleate.
F^xamples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty
acid that may also be mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names I7160, F140, I7110, F90.
F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose
10 palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% dicster and
tricstcr, from 6 1% monoester and 39% diestcr, triestcr and tctracster,
from 52%) monoester and 48% diester, tricstcr and tctracster, from 45%
monoester and 55% dicster, triestcr and tctracster, from 39%
monoester and 61%> diester, tricstcr and tctracster, and sucrose
15 monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar listers, for
example referenced B3 70 and corresponding to sucrose be hen ate
r •
formed from 20% monoester and 80% di- tricstcr-polyester;
- the sucrose mono-dipalmito-stearate sold by the company
20 Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft® PSH.
The oil phase may include be at least one fatty acid. Two or
more fatty acids may be used. The fatty acids should be in acidic form
(i.e., unsalified, to avoid soaps) and may be saturated or unsaturated
and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to 30
25 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or
more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they arc unsaturated,
these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated
carbon-carbon double bonds. They arc more particularly
chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, bchenic acid,
30 oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolcnic acid and isostcaric acid. Preferably
the fatty material is not a fatty acid.
The oil phase may include at least one fatty alcohol, and two or
more fatty alcohols may be used.
11
The term "fatty alcohol" here means any saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohol, which is
optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups
(in particular 1 to 4). If they arc unsaturated, these compounds may
5 comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon
double bonds. Preferably fatty alcohols are unsaturated and/or
branched.
Among the C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 fatty alcohols, for
example, are used. Mention may be made among these of, isostcaryl
10 alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol,
palm i to ley 1 alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures
thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stcaryl alcohol or a
mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol,
can be used as a solid fatty material. In one embodiment, isostcaryl
15 alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.
Preferably, the oils used in phase (A) arc chosen from aliphatic
hydrocarbons, plant oils, silicone oils and esters of fatty alcohols
and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils, and their mixtures.
More preferably, the oils used in phase (A) arc chosen from
20 aliphatic hydrocarbons, plant oils and their mixture.
According to a preferred embodiment, the oily phase (A)
comprises at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon based oil and at least one
plant oil.
According to this embodiment, the oily phase (A) may further
25 comprise at least one fatty ester such as C2-C4 alkyl myristates, in
particular isopropyl myristate and at least one silicone oil.
The amount of the oil phase (A) may range from 10 to 90 % by
weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, and more preferably
from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
30 composition.
The amount of oil(s) in the composition may range from 30 to
85% by weight, preferably 40 to 80% by weight, and more preferably
from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
12
The amount of oil(s) in the oil phase (A) may range from 50 to
100% by weight, preferably 60 to 95% by weight, and more preferably
from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil phase.
In a preferred embodiment, the oily phase (A) comprises at
5 least one aliphatic hydrocarbon based oil in an amount ranging from
40% to 70% by weight and at least one plant oil in an amount ranging
from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase
(A) and optionally at least one oil chosen from the silicone oils and
the fatty esters in an amount less than 8% by weight relative to the
10 weight of the oily phase (A).
The oil phase may include at least one colorant, but it is
preferable that the oil phase be transparent or translucent.
The oil phase may include at least one lipophilic compound
such as oil-soluble organic or inorganic compounds (e.g., some types
15 of amino acids). The amount of the lipophilic compound is 50% by
weight or less relative to the total weight of the oil phase.
Anhydrous non-oil phase (B)
20 As previously mentioned, the anhydrous composition of the
present invention also comprises at least one anhydrous non-oil phase
(B) containing at least one polyol.
Preferably, the anhydrous non-oil phase (B) is liquid at
ambient temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmllg,
25 i.e. 1.013* 105 Pa).
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "anhydrous
non-oil phase (B)" refer to a phase having a water content of less than
2% by weight, preferably less than 1.5% by weight and even more
preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the weight of said phase,
30 most preferably containing no water (0%).
Furthermore, the terms "anhydrous non-oil phase (B)v also
refer to a phase having an oil content of less than 2% by weight,
preferably less than 1.5% by weight and even more preferably less
%
13
than 1% by weight relative to the weight of the said phase, most
preferably containing no oil (0%).
For the purposes of the present invention, the polyol used in
phase (B) is preferably liquid at 25°C and 1 atm.; the polyol according
5 to the invention is different from the hereafter non ionic surfactants.
Preferably, the polyols used in the phase (B) have the
corresponding formula (I):
R'2 R'3
R < i—c [A] m c — R'4
OH OH
10 (I)
in which R ' j , R'2, R'3 and R'4 denote, independently oi" each
other, a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a Ci-C6 mono- or
polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
A denotes a linear or branched alkylenc radical containing
15 from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen
atoms,
m denotes 0 or 1.
A first group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of
formula V for which m = 0, such as glycerin, 1,2,3-propanctriol,
20 pinacol (2,3-dimethyl-2,3-butanediol), 1,2,3-butanetriol, 2.3-
butanediol and sorbitol.
A second group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of
formula V for which m = 1 and R' 1, R'2, R'3 and R'4 denote,
independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical.
25 Among these polyols, polyethylene glycols, for instance the product
known as PEG-8 or PEG-400 in the CTFA publication (International
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 7th edition), arc particularly
preferred.
14
A third group of preferred polyols consists of the polyols of
formula V for which m = 1 and R'i, R'2, R'3 and R'4 denote,
independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl radical,
and whose molecular weight is less than 200. Among these polyols, 3-
5 methyl-1,3,5-pentanctriol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,5-pentancdiol, 2-
mcthy 1-1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentancdiol,
neopentyl glycol (2,2-dimethy]-1,3-propanediol), isoprenc glycol (3-
methyl-l,3-butanediol) and hexylene glycol (2-methyl-2,4-
pentancdiol) are preferably used, and even more preferably hexylene
10 glycol, neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-l ,5-pentanediol.
Preferably, the polyols used in the phase (B) are chosen from
glycerin, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols having from 2 to
9 ethylene oxide units (OE) such as PEG-8.
In a preferred embodiment, the polyols used in the phase (B)
15 corresponds to formula (V) wherein m = 1.
More preferably, the polyols used in the anhydrous non-oil
phase (B) are chosen from polyethylene glycols and even more
preferably contain PEG-8.
The polyols may be present in the anhydrous composition in an
20 amount preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, better still
from 15% to 35% by weight and even more preferably from 20% to
30% by weight relative to the weight of,the composition.
The polyols may be present in the non oil phase in an amount
preferably ranging from 60% to 100% by weight, better still from 70%
25 to 95% by weight and even more preferably from 75% to 90% by
weight relative to the weight of the non oil phase.
The amount of the anhydrous non-oil phase (B) may range from
10 to 90% by weight, preferably from 20 to 80% by weight, and more
preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of
30 the composition.
15
Non ionic surfactant (i) having an IILB higher than 9
As previously mentioned, the anhydrous composition of the
present invention also comprises at least one non ionic surfactant (i)
5 having an IILB higher than 9.
The terms "IILB higher than 9" mean a non ionic surfactant (i)
having at 25°C an IILB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value under
Griffin higher than 9.
The IILB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soe. Cosm.
10 Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pp. 249-256.
The non ionic surfactants (i) having an IILB higher than 9 arc
preferentially chosen from non ionic oxycthylenated surfactants having
a number of ethylene oxide higher than 5.
In particular, the non ionic surfactant (i) having an IILB higher
15 than 9 is selected from polyethoxylated fatty monoalcohols in Cs-Cio
or polyethoxylated fatty esters in C8-C30, the number of ethylene oxidebeing
higher than 5, preferably from 5 to 30, preferably from 6 to 25.
Most preferably, the non ionic surfactant (i) is selected from
polyethoxylated fatty esters in C8-C30, the number of ethylene oxide
20 being higher than 5, preferably from 5-30, most preferably 6-25
Preferably, the non ionic surfactant (i) may be chosen from
oxycthylenated lauryl alcohol containing 12 moles of ethylene oxide
(IILB = 14.5), oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol containing 30 moles of
ethylene oxide (IILB = 16.6), oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol containing
25 10 moles of ethylene oxide (IILB =•- 12.4), polyethylene glycol-7 (PKG-
7) glyceryl cocoate (IILB = 11.0) and polyethylene glycol-6 caprylic
capric triglyceride (HLB = 13.2).
The non ionic surfactant (i) may be present in phasc(s) (A)
and/or (B) of the anhydrous composition of the present invention and
30 preferably is present in the anhydrous non-oil phase (B) of the
anhydrous composition.
The non ionic surfactant (i) is preferably present in an amount
ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 15% by
16
weight, even better from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of
the anhydrous composition.
Non ionic surfactant (ii) having an HLB less than or equal to 9
5
The anhydrous composition of the invention further comprises
at least one non ionic surfactant (ii) having an HLB less than or equal
to 9.
The terms "MLB less than or equal to 9" mean a non ionic
10 surfactant (ii) having at 25°C an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance)
under Griffin less than or equal to 9.
The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc, Cosrn.
Chem. 1954 (volume 5). pp. 249-256.
The non ionic surfactants (ii) having an HLB less than or equal
15 to 9 are preferentially chosen from non ionic oxyethylenatcd
surfactants having a number of ethylene oxide lower than 5.
In particular, the non ionic surfactant having an HLB less than
or equal to 9 is selected from polyethoxylated fatty monoalcohols in
C8-C3o or polyethoxylated fatty esters in C8-C30, the number of
20 ethylene oxide being lower than or equal to 5, preferably from 1 to 5.
Most preferably, the non ionic surfactant having an 11LB less
than or equal to 9 (ii) is selected from polyethoxylated fatty
monoalcohols in C8-C3o, the number of ethylene oxide being lower
than or equal to 5, preferably from 1 to 5.
25 Preferably, the non ionic surfactants (ii) may be chosen from
oxyethylenatcd decyl alcohol containing 3.5 mole of ethylene oxide
(HLB ^ 8.5), oxyethylenatcd isostearyl alcohol containing 2 moles oi'
ethylene oxide (HLB = 6.5), oxyethylenatcd lauryl alcohol containing
3 moles of ethylene oxide (HLB = 8.0), oxyethylenatcd C50 primary
30 alcohol containing 4 moles of ethylene oxide (HLB = 4).
The non ionic surfactant having an HLB less than or equal to 9
may be present in phase(s) (A) and/or (B) and is preferably present in
the anhydrous non oil phase (B).
17
The non ionic surfactant having an IILB less than or equal to 9
is present in the composition in an amount of at least 0.2% by weight,
preferably in an amount ranging from 0.2 to 1.5% by weight, better
0.25 to 1.3% by weight and even better 0.25 to 1.2% by weight relative
5 to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
According to the present invention, the non ionic surfactant(s)
(i) and the non ionic surfactant(s) (ii) arc present in the composition in
a weight ratio (i):(ii) of from 5,5 to 12,5, better from 6 to 12, even
better from 6 to 10. In a preferred embodiment, the anhydrous
10 composition of the present invention comprises:
- at least one oil phase (A) comprising at least one oil chosen
from aliphatic hydrocarbons, plant oils, silicone oils and esters of
fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids other than animal or plant oils, and
their mixtures, more preferably at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon and
15 at least one plant oil,
- at least one anhydrous non-oil phase (B) comprising at least
one polyol chosen from polyethylene glycol having 2 to 9 OK,
- at least one non ionic surfactant (i) having an IILB higher
than 9,
20 - at least one ionic surfactant (ii) having an IILB less than or
equal to 9 in an amount of at least 0.2% by weight relative to the total
weight of the anhydrous composition.
According to this embodiment, the non ionic surfactant (i) and
the non ionic surfactant (ii) are present in the composition in a weight
25 ratio of from 5.5 to 12.5.
According this embodiment, the non ionic surfactant (i) is
preferably chosen from polycthoxylatcd fatty esters in C8-C30. the
number of ethylene oxide being higher than 5, preferably from 5 to 30,
most preferably 6 to 25 and non ionic surfactant (ii) is preferably
30 chosen from polycthoxylatcd fatty monoalcohols in CS-C30, the number
of ethylene oxide being lower than or equal to 5, preferably from 1 to
5.
18
According to this embodiment, the ratio between phase (A) and
phase (B) is preferably ranging from 10:90 to 90:10, more preferably
from 25:75 to 75:25.
According to the present invention, the oil phase (A) and the
5 anhydrous non oil phase (B) can be directly in contact to each other.
Typically, the above two phases may be packaged in a single
container.
It is preferable that the oil phase (A) and the anhydrous non oil
phase (B) in the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the
10 present invention can be spontaneously separated from each other.
Preferably, the at least two phases (A) and (B) arc visually distinct
after coming in a state of rest. More preferably, the two phases can be
separated. This phase separation can visually stimulate the users of
the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present
15 invention. The phase separation of the anhydrous cosmetic
composition according to the present invention can be caused by
leaving it without any shear force for a certain period of time such as
10 minutes to 24 hours.
It is preferable that the anhydrous cosmetic composition
20 according to the present invention can form a homogeneous phase
when being mixed by, for example, shaking the composition by hand
or diluted with water. It is preferable that the homogeneous phase be
in the lamellar form, and viscous such that it does not drip off.
The viscosity of the anhydrous cosmetic composition according
25 to the present invention is not particularly limited. The viscosity can
be measured at 25°C with viscosimcters or rheomcters preferably with
cone-plane geometry. Preferably, the viscosity of the anhydrous
cosmetic composition according to the present invention can range, for
example, from 1 to 2000 Pa.s, and preferably from 1 to 1000 Pa.s at
30 25°C and Is"1.
The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present
invention may also comprise an effective amount of cosmetic additives
such as anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, thickeners,
sequestering agents, UV screening agents, preserving agents, vitamins
19
• 1
or provitamins, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, humcctants,
waxes, fillers, colouring materials, antioxydants, proteins, and so on.
If any of the oil phase (A) and the anhydrous non oil phase (B)
is colored, the anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the
5 present invention may be more visually attractive for users.
The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present
invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential or optional
components by using a conventional mixing means such as a mixer and
a homogenizer.
10 The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present
invention can be used as cosmetics for hair, such as hair rinse-off or
leave on products (e.g., shampoos and conditioners).
The anhydrous cosmetic composition may also comprise one or
more additives chosen from amino acids, proteins, vitamins, non oil
15 soluble plant extracts, glycerol, fragrances, dyes and alkaline agents.
+
Cosmetic process and use
The anhydrous composition according to the present invention
20 can be used in a cosmetic process for keratin substance comprising the
step of applying the anhydrous composition according to the present
invention to keratin materials, such as keratin fibres, in particular
human keratin fibres such as the hair.
The keratin fibres can be in a dry state or in a wet state before
25 application of the cosmetic composition according to the present
invention. The application of the composition according to the
invention to the keratin fibres may or may not be followed by rinsing
the keratin substance. Before rinsing, the anhydrous composition
according to the present invention can be left in contact with the
30 keratin substance, for example, from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.
It is preferable that the cosmetic process for keratin materials
according to the present invention comprise the step of mixing the oil
phase (A) and the anhydrous non-oil phase (B) of the anhydrous
20
cosmetic composition, for example by hand, before the step of
applying the anhydrous composition to the keratin materials.
By mixing the anhydrous composition according to the present
invention, a homogeneous phase is formed. Since the homogeneous
5 phase includes oil(s), polyol(s) and nonionic surfactant(s) equally, the
cosmetic effects provided by these ingredients can be provided
uniformly to the keratin substance, which will result in good balance
of cosmetic effects.
F
4.
Since the homogeneous phase is not in the form of an emulsion,
10 the oil and the polyol can directly contact the keratin fibres, and
therefore, the anhydrous composition according to the present
invention can provide superior conditioning effects. The composition
is capable of forming a layer on keratin fibres which can inhibit the
evaporation of water from the keratin fibres, while it can solubilizc
15 hydrophobic or hydrophilic substances).
The invention also relates to the use of the anhydrous
composition according to the invention for the conditioning of keratin
fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, preferably
used before the application of a shampoo.
21
EXAMPLES
Example 1:
I. Tested compositions
The following compositions are prepared with the ingredients
listed in the table below. The quantities are expressed in grams (g) of
active matter (MA).
Phase A
Phase B
Optical
clarity
Distinct
phases
Mineral oil
(liquid
paraffin)
Rapeseed
oil
Cetyl
Dimethicone
Isopropyl
Myristate
PEG-8
PEG 7
glyceryl
cocoate
Laureth-3
i
96.37
3.3
0.33
No
No
2 3
62.2
15
7.1
15.7
96.04
3.3
0.66
No
No
95.7
3.3
1
No
No
4
93.1
6.6
0.33
No
Yes
22
Phase A
Phase B
Optical
clarity
Distinct
phases
Mineral oil
(liquid
paraffin)
Rapeseed
oil
Cetyl
Dimethicone
Isopropyl
Myristate
PEG-8
PEG
glyceryl
cocoate
7
Laureth-3
5
92.74
6.6
0.66
Yes
Yes
6
92.4
6.6
1
Yes
Yes
7
62.2
15
7.1
15.7
89.77
9.9
0.33
No
No
8
89.44
9.9
0.66
No
No
9
89.1
J Jl .IB. I ^ X H H "B
9.9
1
L 1 1 B ••BBBLBBB1 B- . -X BBBTB BBBTBI "1 - •
Yes
Yes
5 The optical clarity and distinctive phases described above
result from a visual observation of the obtained compositions.
^
23
Example 2:
I. Tested compositions
5 The following compositions are prepared with the ingredients
listed in the table below. The quantities are expressed in grams (g) of
active matter.
Phase A
Phase B
i
Ratio
Optical
Clarity
Distinct
Phase
Mineral Oil
Rapeseed
oil
Cetyl
dimethicone
isopropyl
myristate
PEG 7
glyceryl
cocoate
Laureth-3
1
PE(
6.6
6.6
YES
very
clear
sharp
interface
2
j-8
9.9
9.9
YES
very
clear
sharp
interface
3 4
62.2
15
7.1 L
15.7
Propylene
glycol
6.6 9.9
1
6.6
lower
clarity
blurred
interface
9.9
lower
clarity
blurred
interface
5 6
Glycerine
6.6 9.9
9.9
lower
clarity
blurred
interface
10
15
24
Example 3
5
The following compositions are prepared with the ingredients
listed in the table below. The quantities are expressed in weight
percentage of active matter.
• — -* IP -' • • rn 1 . - ' J . F" • "-H-"-" F-" -—J — r^ • •—• h - r - - • * " - . • '* •• . 1 • • . F F -W . —"-™ . - h • * * • • • r-fcrF • ' * • # • r--- • * •"•• " • il 1
Polyethylene glycol (8 OE)
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Laureth-3
BRASSICA
CAMPESTRIS (RAPESEED)
SEED OIL
Salicylic acid
Cetyl dimethiconc
(viscosity 15-25 est - MW : 900)
Phenyl trimcthicone (viscosity 20 est
- MW : 372)
Yellow 10 (CI : 47005)
Isopropyl myristate
preservative, fragrance
Mineral oil
Composition
( % )
26.5
3
0.3
10
0.1
3
2
1 Qs
11
Qs
Qsp 100 %
25
Polyethylene glycol (8 OE)
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Laureth-3
BRASSICA
CAMPESTRIS (RAPESEED)
SEED OIL
Cetyl dimethicone
(viscosity 15-25 csT - MW : 900)
Phenyl trimethicone
(viscosity 20 csT - MW : 372)
Isopropyl myristate
Yellow 6 (CI : 15985)
Alpha-tocopherol acetate
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-
5-sulfonic-acid
Preservative, fragrance
Mineral oil
Composition B
( % )
26.13
3
0.3
10
3
2
11
0.02
0.1
0.05
Qs
Qsp 100%
*
26
Polyethylene glycol (8 OE)
PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate
Laureth-3
BRASSICA
CAMPESTRIS (RAPESEED)
SEED OIL
Cetyl dimethicone
(viscosity 15-25 csT - MW : 900)
Yellow 6 (CI : 15985)
Alpha-tocopherol acetate
2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-
5-sulfonic-acid
preservative, fragrance
Mineral oil
Composition C
( % )
26.13
3
0.3
4
21
5
0.02
0.1
0.05
Qs
Qsp 100%
The compositions are in the form of bi-phase conditioning oil
that could be used as a hair conditioner.
5 The obtained compositions are optically clear and have two
phases that are visually distinctive from each other.
As previously mentioned, the anhydrous composition of the
present invention is optically clear.
27
CLAIMS
5
1. Anhydrous composition comprising:
at least one oil phase (A) comprising at least one oil,
at least one anhydrous non-oil phase (B) comprising at least
one polyol,
at least one non ionic surfactant (i) having an IILB higher
than 9
10
15
20
25
at least one non ionic surfactant (ii) having an IILB less
than or equal to 9 in a quantity of at least 0.2% by weight
relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition;
wherein the non ionic surfactant (i) and the non ionic
surfactant (ii) are present in the composition in a weight ratio of from
5.5 to 12.5, and
wherein said phases (A) and (B) are visually distinctive from
each other.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the
oil used in the oil phase (A) is selected from aliphatic hydrocarbons,
plant oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and/or fatty acids
other than animal or plant oils and synthetic glyccridcs, or mixtures
thereof.
3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in
that the oil phase (A) comprises at least one aliphatic hydrocarbon and
at least one plant oil.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the anhydrous non-oil phase (B) comprises at
least a polyol having the following structure:
R 2
R', C [A] m
OH
R 3
c
OH
R'
28
in which R'i, R'?, R'3 and R\ denote, independently of each
other, a hydrogen atom, a Cj-Cf, alkyl radical or a Ci-Cf, mono- or
polyhydroxyalkyl radical,
A denotes a linear or branched alkylenc radical containing
5 from 1 to 1 8 carbon atoms, this radical comprising from 0 to 9 oxygen
atoms,
m denotes 0 or 1.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the polyols arc chosen from polyethylene glycol
10 such as PEG-8.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the non ionic surfactant (i) having an IILB higher
than 9 is chosen from non ionic oxycthylcnatcd surfactant having a
number of ethylene oxide higher than 5.
15 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the non ionic surfactant (i) is chosen from
oxyethylcnated lauryl alcohol containing 12 moles of ethylene oxide
(IILB = 14.5), oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol containing 30 moles of
ethylene oxide (IILB = 16.6), oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol containing
20 10 moles of ethylene oxide (IILB ••= 12.4), polyethylene glycol-7 (PLG-
7) glyceryl cocoatc (IILB = 11.0) and polyethylene glycol-6 caprylic
capric triglyceride (IILB = 13.2).
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the non ionic surfactant (ii) having an IILB less
25 than or equal to 9 is chosen from non ionic oxycthylenatcd surfactant
having a number of ethylene oxide lower than or equal to 5.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the non ionic surfactant (ii) is chosen from
oxyethylenated decyl alcohol containing 3.5 mole of ethylene oxide
30 (IILB = 8.5), oxyethylenated isostearyl alcohol containing 2 moles of
ethylene oxide (IILB = 6.5), oxyethylenated lauryl alcohol containing
3 moles of ethylene oxide (HLB = 8.0), oxyethylcnated C50 primary
alcohol containing 4 moles of ethylene oxide (IILB r 4).
10
29
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims,
characterized in that the weight ratio between the non ionic surfactant
(i) and the non ionic surfactant (ii) is ranging from 6 to 12, even better
from 6 to 10.
5 11. Cosmetic process for treating keratin fibers, in particular
human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising a step of applying to the
said fibers a composition as defined in any of the claims 1 to 10.