FORM -2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 [39 of 1970)

NON-STICKY COSMETIC MOISTURIZER FOR SKIN AND HAIR
HINDUSTAN LEVER LIMITED, a company incorporated under the Indian Companies Act, 1913 and having its registered office at Hindustan Lever House, 165/166, Backbay Reclamation, Mumbai -400 020, Maharashtra, India
The following specification particularly describes the nature of the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed.

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-NON-STIGK^eegM&TIC MOISTURIZER- M
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin and hair which delivers a moisturizing effect, without a sticky sensation.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Humectants, such as glycerol and sorbitol, are known as excellent moisturizers for skin, scalp and hair. See for instance W09111171, W09219216, W09219275 and US5858340. The moisturizing capabilities of these ingredients are concentration dependent. Unfortunately, when incorporated into formulations at concentrations above 10%, they confer a sticky, tacky feeling. Due to this unpleasant consumer sensory experience formulations containing higher levels of humectants are, for the most part, not commercially acceptable. The need exists for commercially acceptable moisturizing compositions containing higher levels of humectants.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
A cosmetic non-sticky moisturizer for skin and hair comprising:
(a) at least about 10% by weight of the composition of a polyhydric alcohol humectant;
(b) about 0.01% to about 10% of a polymeric wetting agent which forms a uniform film in a Wetting Test;

(c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

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The polymeric wetting agent may be an amphipatic block copolymer a polymer containing a hydrophilic backbone modified with hydrophobobic groups, or mixtures thereof.
t DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Except in the operating and comparative examples, or where otherwise
explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or
conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be
\ understood as modified by the word "about." All an amount are by weight of the final
composition, unless otherwise specified.
The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck,chest back, arms, hands, legs and scalp.
Humectant
The humectant is included in the inventive compositions to deliver a moisturizing benefit to the skin. Suitable humectar its are polyhydric alcohols and include, but are not limited to glycerol (a.k.a., glycerine humectants other than glycerine which can be added herein include (sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxylated glucose and bexantriol). The humectant is included in the inventive compositions at a concentration of at least 10% Preferably the concentration of at least 10%, generall in the range frome 10% to 90%, preferably from 10% to 60%, most preferatoly to optamize the moisturizer benefits, from 10% to 35%. The most preferred humectants are glycerol and sorbitol due to their low cost and high efficacy.

Polymeric Wetting Agent

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A polymeric wetting agent is included in the inventive compositions to attain 'the spreading of the moisturizing agent and the inventive compositions. The polymeric wetting agent is selected for inclusion in the inventive compositions by testing the polymer in a Wetting Test.
Wetting Test
A. Sample:
Polymer at concentration of 0.25 weight % is dissolved in glycerol. Glycerol may be present either alone or with water. If used with water, then . glycerol-water solution is at 30% glycerol. These polymer solutions are
made at temperatures of about 20° to about 80°C and allowed to dissolve overnight.
B. Substrate: A suitable substrate is defined as a synthetic or natural surface with a critical wetting tension of 20 x 10"3 to 30 x 10~3 N/m. The critical wetting tension is measured according to procedure published in "Contact Angles and Wettability of Human Skin," by Hans Schott, in Journal of Pharmaceutical Science Vol. 60, No. 12, December 1971.
Examples of suitable substrates with measured critical wetting tensions are
Vitro-Skin (IMS Inc) 25 x 10-3 N/m
Transparency films (3M, Avery, Apollo) 20 x 10"3 N/m
Human arm skin 27 x 10-3 to 29x 10-3 N/m

A

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C. Measurement Procedure:
1. Apply 0.8 milliliter of sample on substrate at room temperature (20-25 °C)
2. Spread sample by rubbing in circular motion for 15 seconds over an area of 20 cm2
3. Five minutes after rubbing, spreading is judged visually following
these criteria
a. complete spreading/uniform film = the sample forms an even
coating over the rub-in area (20 cm2)
b. partial wetting = (1) large macroscopic (air) holes (> 1 millimeter
in diameter) develops in the film or (2) the film breaks into
numerous macroscopic drops. ( millimeter in diameter)
c. dewetting = the sample retracts back into a drop when rubbing
motion ceased
A glycerol wetting agent meets criterium (a) only. For example, Pemulen TR-2 meets (a), Pemulen TR-1 falls under (c), and Carbopol 981 is (b).

Suitable polymeric wetting agents generally fall within the following two
classes:
(b1) an amphipathic block copolymer;
(b2) a polymer containing a hydrophilic backbone modified with
hydrophobic groups.
The block copolymers can be either diblocks (AB architecture) or triblocks (ABA or BAB architectures). For illustration, the A block is hydrophilic, e.g. polyethylene oxide, polyacrylamide, polyacrylic acid, siloxane, guar, and biopolymers (gum arabic, protein, gelatin). The B block is hydrophobic, e.g. polypropylene oxide, polyisobutylene, and polystyrene.

For hydrophobically modified polymers, the main component or backbone is
hydrophilic. Along this backbone and/or at the terminal ends, hydrophobic groups
(e.g. alkanes (C12 to C30)} are grafted. These polymers are produced by BASF,
i ISP, Aqualon/Hercules, BF Goodrich etc. under the category of polymeric emulsifiers.
/
These molecules are predominantly hydrophilic and can be solubilized in a
polar solvent (water, glycerol). However, the polymers also contain sufficient
hydrophobic domains that allow the polymers to adsorb or "stick" on hydrophobic
IO surfaces. These two characteristics are keys to the formation of a uniform thin film
of the humectant on skin. Tables A and B contain examples of polymers that did or
did not, respectively, form a uniform film in a Wetting Test.
Table A
is Polymers that formed a uniform film in a Wetting Test

Source Polymer Trade Name Polymer Conc. (%wt) Glycerol Conc (%wt) I
BASF Pluronic F38 0.25 99.75
BASF Pluronic F68 0.25 99.75
BF Goodrich Pemulen TR2 0.25 99.75
BF Goodrich Pemulen TR2 0.25 30 |
Table B
Polymers that did not form a uniform film in a Wetting Test

Source Polymer Trade Name Polymer Conc (%wt) Glycerol Conc. (%wt) '
BASF Pluronic L101 0.25 99.75
BASF Pluronic L121 0.25 99.75
BF Goodrich Pemulen TR1 0.25 99.75
BF Goodrich Carbopol 981 0.25 99.75
Methylcellulose Benecel 0.25 99.75
Hydroxyethylcellulose Natrosol 0.25 99.75
Hydroxypropylcellulose Klucel 0.25 99.75
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The wetting agent is included in the inventive compositions in the concentration of from 0.01% to 10%, preferably to optimize ratios of wetting agent and glycerol content for uniform spreading and non-sticky feel, from 0.01% to 2%, most preferably in order to deliver non-sticky feel without being too viscous, from 0.1% to 5 2%. The most preferred wetting agent is Pemulen TR-2 and Pluronic F38, because they are cosmetically acceptable raw materials, sufficiently hydrophobic to stick to skin.

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Elastomer
An elastomer is a preferred optional ingredient for inclusion in the inventive compositions. Elastomers impart silkiness. These materials are blends of highly ccosslinked siloxane polymers and silicone oils. Supplier sources include GE Silicones (VVaterford, NY), Dow Corning (Midland, Ml), and Rhodia Silicones (Cranbury, NJ). Elastomers are preferably included in an amount of about 0.01% to about 30%, peferably about 1% to about 25%, most preferably about 5% to about 15%. Most preferably, to help disperse the elastomer uniformly in the formulations, the elastomer is included in combination with additional volatile silicone oils (cyclomethicones and dimethicones). In that case, the volatile silicone oil is included in an amount of about 0% to about 25%, preferably about 1% to about 5%.
Table C Examples of suitable elastomers
Trade Name Source CTFA Name Ingredients
Silicone Elastomer Dispersion SFE839 GE Silicones (Waterford, NY) cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspoiymer decamethyl cyclopenta siloxane, polydimethyl siloxane,
octamethyicyclotetra siloxane, and mixed cyclosiloxanes
Silicone Elastomer Blend 9040 Dow Corning {Midland, Ml) cyclomethicone and dimethicone crosspoiymer decamethyl cyclopenta siloxane, dimethyl methytalkenyl siloxane, and dimethyl cyclosiloxanes
Rhodorsil Fluids 47 Rhodia Silicones (Cranbury. NJ) polydimethylsiloxane polydimethylsiloxanes

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Crystalline Fatty Acid
The crystalline fatty acid is a preferred optional ingredient for skin feel, consistency, and occlusion. Preferably, the fatty acid contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, because such acids are cheap and the most aesthetically acceptable. The most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid. The term "acid" as employed herein does not exclude the presence of a salt of fatty acid depending on the pH of the final composition. For instance, sodium, potassium or ammonium salts may be present. The salt amount is included in the amount of fatty acid. The inventive compositions preferably contain at least 0.25% of fatty acid, most preferably from 0.25% to 18%.
Oil
An oil is preferably included in the inventive compositions for skin feel and
emolliency.
Suitable fluid oils include but are not limited to esters of fatty acids or alcohols and hydrocarbons, preferably monoesters of fatty acids or alcohols, as
long as they satisfy the solubility requirements described herein. Most preferably, fluid oil is selected from the group consisting of isostearyl palmitate, tridecyl salicylate, C12-15 octanoate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl myristate and isopropyi palmitate, or any mixtures thereof. Dicapryl ether such as with a trade name, Cetio OE, is also included as most preferable oil.

The oil is preferably included in an amount of from 0.1% to 30%, most preferably in an amount of from 1% to 15%.
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Neutralizing Agent

A neutralizing agent is preferably included in the inventive compositions to neutralize fatty acids, thereby building viscosity and stabilizing emulsion structure. Suitable neutralizing agents include but are not limited to triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, amino methyl propanol ethanolamine. The neutralizing agent is preferably included in an amount of about 0% to about 5%, most preferably in an amount of about 0.05% to about b 1%.
Further Optional Ingredients
^yaribus types of active ingredients may be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Actives are defined as skin or hair benefit agents other than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the physical characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general examples include sunscreens, skin lightening agents, tanning agents.

: o Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet
light. Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate. For example, octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively.
The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the emulsions can vary depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation.


Another preferred optional ingredient is selected from essential fatty acids (EFAs), i.e., those fatty acids which are essential for the plasma membrane formation of all cells, in keratinocytes EFA deficiency makes cells hyperproliferative. Supplementation of EFA corrects this. EFAs also enhance lipid biosynthesis of epidermis and provide lipids for the barrier formation of the epidermis. The essential fatty acids are preferably chosen from linoleic acid, Y-linolenic acid, homo- Y-linolenic acid, columbinic acid, eicosa-(n-6,9,13)-trienoic acid, arachidonic acid, Y-linolenic acid, timnodonic acid, hexaenoic acid and mixtures thereof.
10 Other optional ingredients may include coloring agents, opacifiers and
pigments (e.g. titanium dioxide, silica) and perfumes. Amounts of these materials may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.
Cosmetically Acceptable Vehicle
The composition according to the invention also comprises a cosmetically acceptable vehicle to act as a dilutant, dispersant or carrier for the active components in the composition, so as to facilitate their distribution when the composition is applied to the skin or hair.
Vehicles other than or in addition to water can include liquid or solid emollients, solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. An especially preferred nonaqueous carrier is a polydimethyl siloxane and/or a polydimethyl phenyl siloxane. Silicones of this invention may be those with viscosities ranging anywhere from about 2 10 to 10,000,000 centistokes at25°C. Especially desirable are mixtures of low and high viscosity silicones. These silicones are available from the General Electric Company under trademarks Vicasil, SE and SF and from the Dow Corning Company under the 200 and 550 Series. Amounts of silicone which can be utilized in the compositions of
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this invention range anywhere from 5 to 95%, preferably from 25 to 90% by weight of the composition.
Use of the Composition
i
The composition according to the invention is intended primarily as a product for topical application to human skin or hair, especially as an agent for conditioning and smoothening the skin, and preventing or reducing the appearance of wrinkled or aged skin or dry hair.

In use, a small quantity of the composition, for example from 1 to 5ml, is applied to exposed areas of the skin or hair, from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, it is then spread over and/or rubbed into the skin or hair using the hand or fingers or a suitable device.

Product Form and Packaging
The composition can be packaged in a suitable container to suit its viscosity and intended use by the consumer. For example, a composition can simply be stored in 2(1 a non-deformable bottle or squeeze container, such as a tube or a lidded jar.
The invention accordingly also provides a closed container containing a cosmetically acceptable composition as herein defined.
The following specific examples further illustrate the invention, but the
invention is not limited thereto.
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EXAMPLE 1
The formulations detailed below in Tables 1 and 2 were prepared using the : following procedures:
1. All preparation was performed at room temperature using overhead mixers (1000 rpm)
2. 2% aqueous solution of Pemulen TR2 and neutralizer was prepared and allowed time to hydrate polymer completely
3. oil phase containing elastomer, silicone oil, and any other oils was prepared
4. water and glycerol were mixed, then 2% Pemulen solution added
and mixed thoroughly.
5.oil phase was then added
Formulation Process with Fatty Acids (Stearic, Behewic):
..(a) Fatty acid was heated at 85 to 90°C and stirred at 1000 rpm
(b) Using another breaker, half the amount of water and half the
amount of glycerol were mixed at 90°C with fatty acid at 90°C
(c) Triethanolamine was added to adjust pH to 5.5
(d) Upon start of cooling, the remaining water, glycerol, Pemulen TR2 were mixed-in at room temperature and added to above mixture at
251 40°C
(e) IPM/Petrolatum were premixed and added to the main mixture
drop by drop
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Compositions 1A-1C in Table 1 contained a polymeric wetting agent and thus were within the scope of the invention. Compositions 2A-2C did not contain a polymeric wetting agent and thus were outside the scope of the invention.
Table 1

Ingredient and Concentration (%) 1A 1B 1C
Water 63.00 64.25 63.75
PemulenTR II 1.50 0.25 0.25
Glycerin 35.00 35.00 35.00
Glydant DMDM Hydantoin 0.50 0.50 1.00

wetting test uniform film uniform film uniform film
Table 2 - COMPARATIVE

Ingredient and %Concentration 2A 2B 2C
Water 69.25 64.25 0
Glycerin 30 35 99.75
Glydant DMDM Hydantoin 0.5 0.5 0
Carbopol 981 0.25 0.25 0.25

wetting test dewet dewet partial dewet
It can be seen from the comparison of the test results in Tables 1 and 2 that-
compositions within the scope of the invention delivered a uniform film to the substrate.
EXAMPLE 2
Further compositions within the scope of the invention were prepared, as detailed in Tables 3 and 4.

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Table 3

Ingredient and %Conc 3A 3B 3C 3D 3E
Water 49.25- 29.25 44.75 33.95 38.95 42.7
Preservative 0.5 0.5" 0.5 0.5 0.5
Glycerin 30 35" 35 35 35
Pemulen TR 2 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
TEA (neutralized 0.3 0.3 0.3
Silicone 9040 (Dow) 20-40
SFE839(GE) 15 25
Dow Corning 2-5513 AMS 5
Rhodorsil Fluid 47 V 600,000 1.25,
Silicone oil 245 0-20 5 5 20
Silicone oil Mirasil CM4 20
Table 4

Ingredient and %Conc 4A 4B 4C
Water 76.05 69.55 up to 80
Glydant DMDM Hydantoin 0.2 0.2 0.2
Glycerin 15 15 15-30
Pemulen TR 2 0.25 0.25 0.25
TEA 0.25
IPM 0.3
Petrolatum 0.075
Stearic acid 7 0.7 0.7
Sodium stearoyl lactylate 0.875
Sodium stearate 0.3 0.3
Transcutol 5 1 -5
Cholesterol 2 2
Lecithin or Sucrose stearate 1 0-1
SFE839(GE) 5 5-25
Silicone 245 1 1 -5




EXAMPLE 3
The effect of increased humectant concentration on the perception of stickiness was evaluated in a sensory panel.

Each panelist tried two products for each evaluation (one on each hand). The panelist scored stickiness based on a scale of 1 to 10 (1=not at all sticky; 5=moderately sticky; 10=extremely sticky) and also comparatively between the two products. A sample evaluation sheet is shown here. Comparison can only be made o for product pairs evaluated at the same time; we take the difference of the scores, and average over six panelists.
One milliliter of product was dispensed with a pipette on the back of the panelist's hand. The panelist then rubbed and spread out the product for 15 seconds, waited for one minute (as product film dried), then evaluated for stickiness.
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Table 5

Formulation 5A- COMPARATIVE 5B-COMPARATIVE
Ingredient and Concentration (%} A B
Water 79.01 49.51
Glycerin 5.5 35
Disodium EDTA 0.05 0.05
Veegum 0.2 0.2
Titanium dioxide 328 0.1 0.1
Urea USP 0.01 0.01
Carbopol 981 (2% solution) 3 3
Triethanolamine 1.4 1.4
Pristerene 4911 2.54 2.54
Cerasynt IP 1.5 1.5
Glycerol monostearate 0.7 0.7
Cetyl alcohol and other co-emulsifiers 1 1
Sunflower seed oil 2 2
Silicone and other oils 2.25 2.25
Glydant DMDM Hydantoin 0.1 0.1
Fragrance 0.25 0-25
D&C Yellow / 0.39 0.39
Neither formulation contained a polymer wetting agent and thus neither was
within the scope of the invention. Stickiness evaluation after product was applied and
dried; 8 out of 12 panelists judged composition 5A (35% glycerol) was stickier than
composition 5B (5% glycerol). A clinical dryness evaluation, however, showed
/o significant difference (better) in moisturization with increased glycerol concentration.
it can be seen from this Example that an increased concentration of glycerol leads directly to decreased dryness, yet also, unfortunately, increased stickiness.

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EXAMPLE 4
The following formulations within the scope of the invention were evaluated for stickiness.
Table 6

Formulation 6A 6B 6C
Ingredient and %Conc
Methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 i
Carbomer 981 0.10 0.10
Pluronic F38 0.25
Glycerin 3.00 15.00 15.00 :
Water 80.90 68.90 68.85
NaOH 10% 0.10 0.10
Emulgade PL 68/50 2.70 2.70 2.70
Cetearylalcohol 1.00 1.00 1.00
Cetiol OE 2.00 2.00 2.00
Cetioi V 2.00 2.00 2.00
CCT 4.00 4.00 4.00
Cetiol J-600 3.00 3.00 3.00
DC Fluid 200/100 cs 0.50 0.50 0.50
Propylparaben 0.10 0.10 0.10
Phenoxyethanol 0.40 0.40 0.40 j

Product Pairs Evaluation Score Difference between Product Pairs
6B vs. 6A 1.67
6A vs. 6C 0.17
6B vs. 6C 1.00
6A vs. 6A 0.33
Comparative stickiness evaluation of product pairs. In the first evaluation, the
15 panel compared prototypes with 15 and 3% glycerol; the high (positive) score difference
indicates that 15% glycerol is much stickier than the 3%. The second and third
evaluations compared the effect of the wetting polymer Pluronic versus the typical
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WE CLAIM :
1. A cosmetic non-sticky moisturizer for skin and hair comprising :
(a) at least 10% by weight of the composition of a polyhydric alcohol humectant;
(b) 0.01% to 10% of a polymeric wetting agent which forms a uniform film in a Wetting Test
(c) a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

2. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition optionally comprises an elastomer.
3. The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polymeric wetting agent is selected from the group consisting of :
(bl) an amphipathic block copolymer;
(b2) a polymer containing a hydrophilic backbone modified with hydrophobic
groups ; and
(b3) mixtures thereof.
4. The composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the composition optionally comprises a volatile silicone oil.
5. The composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the composition optionally comprises a crystalline fatty acid.
6. The composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the composition optionally comprises an oil.
7. The composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein the amount of the humectant in the composition is from 10% to 90%.
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