Oil-rich aqueous composition and its use in an oxidative colouring
or bleaching method
The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic
composition comprising one or more fatty substances, one or more
oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a number of oxyethylenes less
than or equal to 10 and one or more alkylpolyglucoside-type
surfactants.
The present invention relates to the fields of the dyeing or
bleaching of keratin fibres and more particularly to the fields of hair
dyeing or bleaching.
It is known practice to obtain "permanent" colourations with
dyeing compositions containing oxidative dye precursors, which are
generally known as oxidation bases, such as ortho- or paraphenylenediamines,
ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic
compounds. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured
compounds that, in combination with oxidizing products, can give rise
to coloured compounds by an oxidative condensation method.
It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation
bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or colouration
modifiers, the latter being chosen especially from aromatic metadiamines,
meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic
compounds such as indole compounds. The variety of the molecules
used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colours
to be obtained.
This oxidative dyeing method therefore consists in applying, to
the keratin fibres, bases or a mixture of bases and couplers with
hydrogen peroxide (H20 2 or aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution), as
oxidizing agent, in leaving to diffuse, and in then rinsing the fibres.
The resulting colours must meet a certain number of
requirements, particularly these colours must be strong and resistant
to external agents, in particular to light, bad weather, washing
operations, perspiration and rubbing actions. Moreover, the dyes must
also make it possible to cover white hairs satisfactorily, and to be
extremely unselective, i.e. to produce the smallest possible differences
in colour along a single keratin fibre, which can indeed have a
sensitivity effect (i.e. damage) that differs between its tip and its root.
There is a constant need to improve the colorimetric properties
of hair colouring compositions, in particular as regards colour
intensity delivered by oxidative dyes.
Moreover, it is also known to lighten keratin fibres with
oxidizing compositions generally containing hydrogen peroxide,
optionally combined with peroxygenated salts such as persulfates.
There is also a constant need to improve the properties of hair
colouring compositions, in particular as regards the intensity or speed
of bleaching by the oxidizing agents, particularly to reduce the risks
of hair degradation.
For a few years, hair colouring/bleaching compositions that are
rich in fatty substances have been developed. Such compositions are
for example described in patent application FR 2940083 . These
compositions that may reduce hair degradation are not always
satisfactory in terms of dyeing properties.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to an aqueous
cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) one or more fatty substances in a content ranging from
40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
(ii) one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a
number of oxyethylenes less than or equal to 10, and
(iii) one or more alkylpolyglucoside-type surfactants.
The cosmetic composition in accordance with the present
invention improves the efficacy of oxidative colouring and bleaching
methods for keratin fibres.
More specifically, the cosmetic composition according to the
invention improves the efficacy of oxidative dyes on keratin fibres
when it is used during an oxidation colouring method, which leads to
more intense colours.
Moreover, oxidative colouring methods using the cosmetic
composition according to the invention may also lead to chromatic
and/or sparingly selective colours, i.e. colours that are homogeneous
all along the fibre.
More specifically, the cosmetic composition according to the
invention improves the lightening of keratin fibres when it is used
during a bleaching method with or without oxidative dyes.
The present invention also relates to a method for bleaching
keratin fibres, particularly human keratin fibres such as hair,
comprising the application to said fibres of a cosmetic composition as
defined hereinbefore in the presence of one or more chemical
oxidizing agents and optionally one or more alkaline agents, for long
enough to deliver the desired lightening effect.
The present invention also relates to a method for colouring
keratin fibres, particularly human keratin fibres such as hair,
comprising the application to said fibres of a cosmetic composition as
defined hereinbefore and one or more oxidative dyes, and optionally
one or more alkaline agents, in the presence of one or more oxidizing
agents, for long enough to develop the desired colour.
According to a first variant, the method for colouring keratin
fibres, particularly human keratin fibres such as hair, uses a cosmetic
composition (A) as defined hereinbefore, a dyeing composition (B)
comprising one or more oxidative dyes and optionally one or more
alkaline agents, and an oxidizing composition (C) comprising one or
more chemical oxidizing agents.
A second variant of this method for colouring keratin fibres,
particularly hair, uses a cosmetic composition (A) as defined
hereinbefore and comprising one or more oxidative dyes and
optionally one or more alkaline agents, and an oxidizing composition
(C) comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
The invention also relates to using an aqueous cosmetic
composition as defined hereinbefore comprising one or more oxidative
dyes to improve the colour intensity of the keratin fibres, particularly
human keratin fibres such as hair.
The invention also relates to using an aqueous cosmetic
composition as defined hereinbefore comprising one or more oxidizing
agents to improve the lightening of the keratin fibres, particularly
human keratin fibres such as hair.
Lastly, the present invention relates to a multi-compartment
device using a first compartment containing the aqueous cosmetic
composition as defined hereinbefore, a second compartment containing
a cosmetic composition comprising one or more oxidative dyes, and a
third compartment containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents,
one or more alkaline agents being preferably present in the first and/or
second compartment.
Chemical oxidizing agent means an oxidizing agent other than
air.
It also relates to a multi-compartment device using a first
compartment containing the aqueous cosmetic composition as defined
hereinbefore, and optionally one or more oxidative dyes, and a second
compartment containing one or more chemical oxidizing agents, one or
more alkaline agents being preferably present in the first
compartment.
Other features, aspects, subjects and benefits of the present
invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description
and the examples that follow.
Fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in
water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure
(760 mmHg), i.e. solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even
more preferentially 0 .1%. They present in their structure at least one
chain of at least two siloxane groups or a hydrocarbon-based chain
containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances
are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature
and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene,
liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
According to a specific embodiment, the fatty substance is
other than a fatty acid.
The fatty substances are in particular chosen from C -C i lower
alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin,
non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol
esters, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
For the purposes of the invention, the fatty alcohols and esters
more particularly contain one or more linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups containing 6 to 30 carbon
atoms, optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl
groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds
may comprise from one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carboncarbon
double bonds.
As regards the C -C i lower alkanes, they are linear or
branched, or optionally cyclic. By way of example, the alkanes may be
chosen from hexane, undecane, dodecane and tridecane, isoparaffins
such as isohexadecane and isodecane.
As non-silicone oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic
origin that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples
that may be mentioned include:
- hydrocarbon oils of animal or plant origin, such as
perhydrosqualene;
- triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as
liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon
atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or
alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil,
marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid
triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearinerie
Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by
the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon
atoms, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile
liquid paraffins, and their derivatives, petrolatum, liquid petrolatum,
polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®;
- fluoro oils, for instance perfluoromethylcyclopentane and
perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI
and Flutec® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro1,2-
dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as
dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names
PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl
sold under the name Foralkyl® by the company Atochem;
nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane;
perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-
(trifluoromethyl)perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052®
by the company 3M.
The non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols that may be used in the
aqueous cosmetic composition are saturated or unsaturated, linear or
branched and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly
from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; mention may be made of cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol),
octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-
undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
The fatty acids that may be used in the aqueous cosmetic
composition may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic
acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 9 to
30 carbon atoms. They are more specifically chosen from myristic
acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid,
linolenic acid and isostearic acid.
The esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, which are
advantageously different than the triglycerides mentioned above are
esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C2 aliphatic
mono- or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
Ci-C2 6 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the
esters more particularly being greater than or equal to 10 .
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of
dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate;
cetyl lactate; C12 -C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate;
linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl
octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl
isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;
isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate;
methylacetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-
ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl
stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl
palmitates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl
myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or
stearyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate;
dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
Still within the context of this alternative form, use may also
be made of esters of C 4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22
alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-,
tetra- or pentahydroxy C2-C26 alcohols.
Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate;
diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate;
dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl
undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl
monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl
tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl
tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol
dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate;
glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate;
trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol
diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene
glycol distearates.
Among the esters mentioned above, use is preferably made of
ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates, such as isopropyl,
butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate,
isobutyl stearate, dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate,
isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
The composition can also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters
and diesters of C - C 30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled
that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based
compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without
aldehyde or ketone functions, and that comprise at least 4 carbon
atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Mention may be made, as suitable sugars, for example, of
sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose,
fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose and their derivatives, in
particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example
methylglucose.
The esters of sugars and of fatty acids can be chosen in
particular from the group consisting of the esters or mixtures of esters
of sugars described above and of saturated or unsaturated and linear or
branched C - C 30 and preferably C 12- C 22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds may comprise from one to three
conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this alternative form can also be
chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their
mixtures.
These esters can, for example, be oleates, laurates, palmitates,
myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,
caprates, arachidonates or their mixtures, such as, in particular,
oleate/palmitate, oleate/stearate or palmitate/stearate mixed esters.
More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in
particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleate/palmitate,
-linoleate, -linolenate or -oleate/stearate of sucrose, glucose or
methylglucose.
Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold
under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose
dioleate.
Mention may also be made, by way of examples of esters or
mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty acid, of:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90,
F70 and SL40 by Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose
palmitate/stearates formed of 73% monoester and 27% di- and triester,
of 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, of 52% monoester
and 4 8% di-, tri- and tetraester, of 45% monoester and 55% di-, triand
tetraester, and of 39% monoester and 61% > di-, tri- and tetraester,
and sucrose monolaurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for
example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate
formed of 20% monoester and 80%> diester, triester and polyester;
- the sucrose monopalmitate/stearate-dipalmitate/stearate sold
by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft ® PSE.
The non-silicone wax(es) that may be used in the aqueous
cosmetic composition (A) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax,
candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerites, plant
waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the
absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant
blossom sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for
instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes
or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention
are especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company
Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or
polyolefin waxes in general.
The silicones that can be used in the aqueous cosmetic
composition of the present invention are volatile or non-volatile and
cyclic, linear or branched silicones, which are unmodified or modified
by organic groups, having a viscosity from 5 10 6 to 2.5 m /s at 25°C
and preferably from l xlO5 to 1 m /s.
The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention
can be provided in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in
particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified
polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from
poly(oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter
Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" ( 1968), Academic
Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly
chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C,
and more particularly still from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and
preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. They are, for example,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, sold in particular under the name
Volatile Silicone ® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by
Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, sold under the name Volatile
Silicone ® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione ® 70045 V5 by Rhodia,
and their mixtures.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone ®
FZ 3109, sold by Union Carbide, having the formula:
I— D" - D" D" - D' -
with D - Si - O — with D' : - Si - O -
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic
polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon,
such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- l , l '-bis(2,2,2 ',2' ,3,3 ' -
hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9
silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 10 6
m /s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular
under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones
coming within this category are also described in the paper published
in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd &
Byers, "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics" .
Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, of
polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, of polyorganosiloxanes modified
by the above organic functional groups, and of their mixtures.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity
of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to Standard ASTM 445
Appendix C.
Mention may be made, among these polydialkylsiloxanes,
without implied limitation, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione ® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil
oils sold by Rhodia, such as, for example, the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil ® series sold by Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200
having a viscosity of 60 000 mm /s;
- the Viscasil ® oils from General Electric and certain oils of
the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes having
dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol
(CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.
Mention may also be made, in this category of
polydialkylsiloxanes, of the products sold under the names Abil Wax®
9800 and 980 1 by Goldschmidt, which are polydi(Ci-
C2o)alkylsiloxanes.
The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the
invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably
polydimethylsiloxanes having high number-average molecular weights
of between 200,000 and 1,000,000, used alone or as a mixture in a
solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones,
polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS)
oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane,
dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.
Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with
the invention are mixtures, such as:
the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane
hydroxylated at the chain end, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a
cyclic polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA),
such as the product Q2 140 1 sold by Dow Corning;
- the mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and of a cyclic
silicone, such as the product SF 12 14 Silicone Fluid from General
Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone,
having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in
the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
- the mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and
more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product
SF 1236 from General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of
a gum SE 30 defined above having a viscosity of 20 m /s and of an oil
SF 96 with a viscosity of 5 10 6 m2/s. This product preferably
comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance
with the invention are cross-linked siloxane systems including the
following units:
R2Si0 2 /2 , RsSiOi/2 , RSi0 3/2 and Si0 4 2
in which R denotes an alkyl having from 1 to 16 carbon atoms.
Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those
in which R denotes a lower Ci-C4 alkyl group, more particularly
methyl.
Mention may be made, among these resins, of the product sold
under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names
Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by General Electric, which are
silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the resins of the
trimethylsiloxysilicate type, sold in particular under the names X22-
49 14, X2 1-5034 and X2 1-5037 by Shin-Etsu.
The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance
with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising, in
their structure, one or more organic functional groups attached via a
hydrocarbon group.
In addition to the silicones described above, the
organomodified silicones can be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular
polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized by
the abovementioned organic functional groups.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen in particular from linear
and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from l xlO5
to 5 l 0 2 m2/s at 25°C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 64 1 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from
Rhodia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow
Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product
PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the
products PN1 000 and PH1 000;
- some of the oils in the SF series from General Electric, such
as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265 .
Mention may be made, among the organomodified silicones, of
polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally
comprising C -C2 4 alkyl groups, such as the products named
dimethicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the name DC 1248
or the oils Silwet ® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 by Union Carbide,
and the (Ci 2)alkyl methicone copolyol sold by Dow Corning under the
name Q2 5200;
- substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the
products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by
Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow
Corning 929 or 939 by Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups
are in particular C1- C 4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428,
2434 and 2440 by Goldschmidt.
The fatty substances do not comprise any C 2- C 3 oxyalkylene
units.
More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from
compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature and
atmospheric pressure.
Preferably, the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at
the temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
Preferably, the fatty substance(s) of the composition according
to the invention are non-silicone.
The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C -C i lower
alkanes, non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty
alcohol esters, non-silicone oils of mineral, plant or synthetic origin,
including in particular linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than
16 carbon atoms.
According to one embodiment, the fatty substance(s) are
chosen from liquid petrolatum, 2-octyldodecanol, perhydrosqualene,
polydecenes, and liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols,
or their mixtures.
Specifically, the fatty substance preferably present in the
cosmetic composition is liquid petrolatum, octyl-2-dodecanol and
perhydrosqualene.
According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substance
present in the cosmetic composition is liquid petrolatum.
The aqueous cosmetic composition according to the invention
comprises from 40 to 80% by weight of fatty substance, and in
particular from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
further comprises one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a
number of oxyethylenes less than 10 .
For the purposes of the present invention, oxyethylenated fatty
alcohol means any oxyethylenated alcohol having a hydrocarbon chain
containing at least 6 carbon atoms.
According to the invention, oxyethylenated fatty alcohol means
any fatty alcohol having the following structure:
ROin
which:
R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical
containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly from 8 to 30,
preferably below 16, more preferably from 10 to 15 and Z denotes an
oxyethylenated radical having the following formula (I):
—CH—CH-O— I
m denotes the number of ethylene oxide groups below 10,
preferably ranging from 2 to 10 .
Particularly preferred liquid oxyethylenated fatty alcohols
according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated, linear fatty
alcohols, containing from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 12
carbon atoms, and from 2 to 8 ethylene oxide groups, particularly two
ethylene oxide groups.
Mention may be in particular made of the following
commercially available products as oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol-type
compounds:
Mergital LM2 (Cognis) [lauryl alcohol 2 EO];
Empilan KA 2.5/90FL (Albright & Wilson) and Mergital
BL309 (Cognis) [decyl alcohol 3 EO];
Empilan KA 5/90FL (Albright & Wilson) and Mergital BL589
(Cognis) [decyl alcohol 5 EO];
Emulgin 05 (Cognis) [oleocetyl alcohol 5 EO].
Preferably, the oxyethylenated fatty alcohol present in the
cosmetic composition according to the invention is lauryl alcohol
comprising two ethylene oxide groups.
The oxyethylenated fatty alcohol(s) having a number of
ethylene oxides below 10 may be present in the cosmetic composition
according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by
weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention
further comprises one or more alkylpolyglucoside-type surfactants.
The alkylpolyglucoside-type surfactants present in the
cosmetic composition according to the present invention are more
specifically represented by the following general formula (II):
in which Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl and/or
alkenyl radical comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an
alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl group
comprises from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 denotes an alkylene
radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, L designates a reducing
sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, a designates a value
ranging from 0 to 10, and b designates a value ranging from 1 to 15.
Preferred alkylpolyglucosides according to the present
invention are compounds having formula (II) in which Ri designates
more specifically a linear or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical
containing from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, a designates a value ranging
from 0 to 3 and even more specifically equal to zero, L designates
glucose, fructose or galactose. The degree of polymerization (S) of the
saccharide, i.e. the value of b in the formula (II), may range from 1 to
15. According to the invention, reducing sugars containing 80%>, or
more of sugars whose degree of polymerization (S) takes a value
ranging from 1 to 4 are preferred.
Compounds having formula (II) are in particular represented by
the products sold by Henkel as APG, such as products APG 300, APG
350, APG 500, APG 550, APG 625, APG base 10- 12; products sold by
Seppic as Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or
Oramix NS 10); those sold by B.A.S.F. as Lutensol GD 70; sold by
Henkel as Plantaren 1200, Plantaren 1300, Plantaren 2000, and
Plantacare 2000, Plantacare 8 18, Plantacare 1200.
The alkylpolyglucoside-type surfactants may be present in the
cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by
weight and preferably in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition may optionally also contain one or
more oxidative dyes. In this case, the cosmetic composition according
to the invention corresponds to a dyeing composition for keratin
fibres.
Specifically, the oxidative dyes are chosen from one or more
oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more couplers.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from paraphenylenediamines,
bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols,
ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and their addition salts.
Mention may be made, among para-phenylenediamines, by way
of example, of para-phenylenediamine, para-toluylenediamine, 2-
chloro-para-phenylene diamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-paraphenylenediamine,
2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,Ndimethyl-
para-phenylene diamine, ,-diethyl-para-phenylene diamine,
,-dipropyl-para-phenylene diamine, 4-amino -N,N- diethyl- 3-
methylaniline, N,N-bis ( -hydroxy ethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 4-
N,N-bis (P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis ( -
hydroxy ethyl) amino -2-chloro aniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-paraphenylenediamine,
2- fluoro -para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine,
N-(P-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-
hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, -dimet hy1-3 -methyl-par aphenylenediamine,
N-ethyl-N -(P-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine,
N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(4'-aminophenyl) -para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-paraphenylenediamine,
2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2--
acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-
para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-paraphenylenediamine,
2-P-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene, 3-
hydroxy- 1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an
acid.
Preference is particularly given, among the abovementioned
para-phenylenediamines, to para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine,
2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2--
hydroxyethyl-para-phenylene diamine, 2-P-hydroxyethyloxy-paraphenylene
diamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethylpara-
phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,Nbis
( -hydroxy ethyl) -para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro -paraphenylenediamine,
2-P-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine
and their addition salts with an acid.
Mention may be made, among bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, by
way o f example, o f N,N'-bis (P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-
aminophenyl)- l ,3-diaminopropanol, N,N'-bis (P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-
bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylene diamine, N,N'-bis(4-
aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis ( -hydroxy ethyl) -N,N '-
bis(4- amino phenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-
methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-
bis(4'-amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, l ,8-bis(2,5-
diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and their addition salts.
Mention may be made, among para-aminophenols, by way of
example, of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-
fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino-3-
(hydroxymethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-
(hydroxymethyl)phenol, 4-amino-2-(methoxymethyl)phenol, 4-amino -
2-(aminomethyl)phenol, 4-amino -2- [(-
hydroxyethyl)aminomethyl]phenol, 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and their
addition salts with an acid.
Mention may be made, among ortho-aminophenols, by way o f
example, of 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-
methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and their addition salts.
Mention may be made, among heterocyclic bases, by way of
example, of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole
derivatives.
Mention may be made, among pyridine derivatives, of the
compounds described, for example, in Patents GB 1 026 978 and
GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-
methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine and their
addition salts.
Other pyridine oxidation bases of use in the present invention
are the 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or their
addition salts described, for example, in Patent Application FR 2 80 1
308. Mention may be made, by way of example, of pyrazolo[ 1,5-
a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-(acetylamino)pyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-
(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-
aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-
methoxypyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-
a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol,
2-(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-
a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridine, 3,4-
diaminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine,
7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ l ,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, pyrazolo[ l ,5-
a]pyridine-3, 5-diamine, 5-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazolo[ l ,5-a]pyrid-3-
ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-
hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-
hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-
aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridin-6-
ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[ 1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol and their addition salts.
Mention may be made, among pyrimidine derivatives, of the
compounds described, for example, in Patents DE 2359399, JP 88-
16957 1, JP 05-63 124 and EP 0 770 375 or Patent Application WO
96/1 5765 , such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-
triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-
dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their
addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric
equilibrium exists.
Mention may be made, among pyrazole derivatives, of the
compounds described in Patents DE 3843892 and DE 4 133957 and
Patent Applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and
DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-
(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1-(4 '-
chlorobenzyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-
diamino -3-methyl- 1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino - 1-methyl- 3-
phenylpyrazole, 4-amino- 1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-
4,5-diamino- 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino -3-(tert-butyl) - 1-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino - 1-(tert-butyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-
diamino- 1-(-hydro xyethy l)-3 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino - 1-ethy 1-3-
methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino - 1-ethy 1-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,
4,5-diamino - 1-ethy 1-3 -(hydroxymethyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino -3-
(hydroxymethyl)- 1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-(hydroxymethyl)- 1-
isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-
amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino - 1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-
triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino - 1-
methyl-4-(methylamino)pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4 -( -
hydroxyethyl)amino- 1-methylpyrazole and their addition salts. Use
may also be made o f 4,5-diamino- 1-(P-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.
Use will preferably be made of a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and
more preferably still o f 4,5-diamino- 1-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole
and/or one of its salts.
Mention may also be made, as pyrazole derivatives, of
diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those
described in Application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following
compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro- lH,5Hpyrazolo[
1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydrolH,
5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-
dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-amino-3-(pyrrolidinl
-yl)-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ l ,2-a]pyrazol- l -one, 4,5-diamino -
1,2-dimethyl- l ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2-diethyl- 1,2-
dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino- 1,2-di(2-hydroxy ethyl)- 1,2-
dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydrolH,
5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-
dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-
tetrahydro- lH,6H-pyridazino[ l ,2-a]pyrazol- l -one, 4-amino- l ,2-
diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin- l -yl)- l ,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino -5-(3 -
dimethylaminopyrrolidin- 1-yl)- 1,2-diethyl- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one
or 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro- lH,5H-pyrazolo[ 1,2-a]pyrazol-
1-one.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydrolH,
5H-pyrazolo[ l ,2-a]pyrazol- l -one and/or one of its salts.
Use will preferably be made, as heterocyclic bases, of 4,5-
diamino- 1-(P-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydrolH,
5H-pyrazolo[ l ,2-a]pyrazol- l -one and/or one of their salts.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may
optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from
those conventionally used in the dyeing o f keratin fibres.
Mention may in particular be made, among these couplers, of
meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols,
naphthalene couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts.
Mention may be made, for example, o f 1,3-dihydroxybenzene,
1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro - 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-
diamino- 1-(P-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino -4- (-
hydroxyethylamino)- 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1,3-
bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido- l -
dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, l -P-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-
methylenedioxybenzene, cc-naphthol, 2-methyl- 1-naphthol, 6-
hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-
3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-
dimethoxypyridine, l -N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-3,4-
methylenedioxybenzene, 2,6-bis (P-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-
hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, l -H-3-
methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-
dimethylpyrazolo[ 1,5-b]- l ,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[3,2-c]-
1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[ l ,5-a]benzimidazole, their
addition salts with an acid, and their mixtures.
In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and
couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in
particular from the addition salts with an acid, such as the
hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates,
lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
The oxidation base(s) each advantageously represent from
0.000 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5 % by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
The content of coupler(s), if it (they) is (are) present, each
advantageously represents from 0.000 1% to 10%> by weight, with
respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.005%
to 5%> by weight, with respect to the total weight of the aqueous
cosmetic composition.
When the composition according to the present invention
contains one or more alkaline agents, the alkaline agent may be
organic or inorganic or hybrid.
A first type of alkaline agents that can be used in the sense of
the present invention are organic amines with a pK at 25°C of less
than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less
than 6 . It should be noted that it is the pK corresponding to the
functional group of highest basicity.
According to a first variant of the invention, the organic amine
comprises a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and one or
more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups carrying one or more
hydroxyl radicals.
Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as
monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines, comprising
one to three identical or different C1- C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are in
particular suitable for implementing the invention.
Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, Ndimethylaminoethanolamine,
2-amino-2-methyl- 1-propanol,
triisopropanolamine, 2-amino -2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol, 3-amino -1,2-
propanediol, 3-dimethylamino- 1,2-propanediol and
tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.
Also suitable are the organic amines having the following
formula:
R X / R Z
N-W-N
in which W is a Ci-C alkylene residue optionally substituted
with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt,
which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a Ci-
C alkyl, Ci-C hydroxyalkyl or Ci-C aminoalkyl radical.
Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1,3-
diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
According to another variant of the invention, the organic
amine is chosen from amino acids.
More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of
natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and
comprise at least one acid functional group chosen more particularly
from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric
acid functional groups. The amino acids can be in the neutral or ionic
form.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids
comprising an additional amine functional group optionally included
in a ring or in a ureido functional group.
As amino acids that can be used in the present invention,
mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid,
alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine,
glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,
N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan,
tyrosine and valine.
According to one preferred variant of the invention, the
organic amine is chosen from basic amino acids. The amino acids that
are particularly preferred are glycerine, tyrosine, arginine, lysine and
histidine, and their mixtures.
According to another variant of the invention, the organic
amine is chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides
histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention
may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole,
tetrazole and benzimidazole.
According to another variant of the invention, the organic
amine is chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides
that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made
especially of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
According to another variant of the invention, the organic
amine is chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As
amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides
arginine that has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention
may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine,
1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, Namidinoalanine,
3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid
and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane- 1-sulfonic acid.
Preferably, the organic amine is an alkanolamine. More
preferentially, the organic amine is chosen from 2-amino-2-methyl- 1-
propanol, monoethanolamine, or their mixtures. More preferentially
still, the organic amine is monoethanolamine.
A second type of alkaline agents that can be used in the sense
of the present invention comprises the organic or inorganic (in this
case this would be hybrid alkaline agents) salts of organic amines as
described hereinbefore.
Preferably, the organic salts are chosen from organic acid salts
such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates, propionates,
fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.
Preferably, the inorganic salts are chosen from hydrohalides
(for example hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogen carbonates,
sulfates, hydrogen phosphates and phosphates.
A third type of alkaline agents that can be used in the sense of
the present invention are inorganic bases. By way of example, mention
may be made of ammonia, carbonates such as sodium carbonate,
potassium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potash,
silicates and metasilicates such as sodium metasilicate, potassium
metasilicate, preferably carbonates and more preferably an ammonium
carbonate.
Preferably, alkaline agents that can be used in the cosmetic
composition according to the invention may be chosen from organic
amines and their salts, organic bases and ammonium salts.
Specifically, the alkaline agent is monoethanolamine.
When the alkaline agents are present in the cosmetic
composition in accordance with the present invention, these agents are
present in a content ranging from 0.0 1 to 30% by weight, preferably
from 0 .1 to 20% by weight compared to the weight of said
composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention
comprises one or more alkaline agents.
The composition according to the invention preferably
comprises water or a mixture of water and one or more common
organic solvents.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention
comprises water in a content ranging from 5% to 30% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The composition may comprise organic solvents. Mention may
more particularly be made, among suitable organic solvents, of nonaromatic
alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or
glycols or glycol ethers, such as, for example, ethylene glycol
monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol or its
ethers, such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether,
butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and also diethylene glycol alkyl
ethers, such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or
monobutyl ether, or alternatively polyols, such as glycerol.
Polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, and mixtures of all
these compounds, can also be used as solvent.
The common organic solvents described above, if they are
present, usually represent from 0 .1% to 15% by weight and more
preferentially from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present
invention comprises one or more thickening agents.
The thickening agents can be chosen from inorganic thickening
agents and organic thickening agents.
The organic thickening agent(s) may be chosen from cellulosebased
thickeners, for example, hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, guar gum and its
derivatives, for example the hydroxypropyl guar sold by the company
Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105 , gums of microbial origin,
such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such
as cross-linked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid
homopolymers, for example Carbomer, non-ionic, anionic, cationic or
amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the
names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90
by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company
Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T21 0 and T2 12 by the company Akzo.
According to one embodiment, the inorganic thickening agents
are chosen from organophilic clays, fumed silicas or their mixtures.
The organophilic clay can be chosen from montmorillonite,
bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite and their mixtures. The clay
is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen
from quaternary ammoniums, tertiary amines, amine acetates,
imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates, amine
oxides and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, as organophilic clays, of quaternium- 18
bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38
and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United Catalyst and
Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by Southern Clay;
stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone
27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst and Claytone AF and
Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium- 18/benzalkonium
bentonites, such as those sold under the names Claytone HT and
Claytone PS by Southern Clay; quaternium- 18 hectorites, such as
those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel EC05,
Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone Gel IPP, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel
SS7 1, Bentone Gel VS8 and Bentone Gel VS38 by Rheox, and Simagel
M and Simagel SI 345 by Biophil.
The fumed silicas can be obtained by high-temperature
pyrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame,
producing a finely divided silica. This method makes it possible in
particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas that exhibit a large number of
silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold, for
example, under the names Aerosil 130®, Aerosil 200®, Aerosil 255®,
Aerosil 300® and Aerosil 380® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil HS-5®,
Cab-O-Sil EH-5®, Cab-O-Sil LM- 130®, Cab-O-Sil MS-55® and Cab-
O-Sil M-5® by Cabot.
It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by
chemical reaction for the purpose of reducing the number of silanol
groups. It is possible in particular to replace silanol groups with
hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups can be:
- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by
treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas
thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th
Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references
Aerosil R812® by Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by Cabot.
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are
obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated
are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th
Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references
Aerosi 1 R972® and Aerosi 1 R974® by the company Degussa, and Cab-
O-Sil TS-6 10® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.
The fumed silica preferably exhibits a particle size that can be
nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5
to 200 nm.
Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an
organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified fumed silica.
The composition according to the invention may further
comprise diverse conventional adjuvants well known in the state of the
art such as anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic
polymers or their mixtures; antioxidants; penetration agents;
sequestering agents; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents;
ceramides; preservatives; opacifiers, surfactants other than
alkylpolyglucosides and oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a
number of ethylene oxides less than or equal to 10 .
A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional
additives and their amounts such that they do not harm the properties
of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives are generally present in the composition
according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
When the composition contains water, the pH of the cosmetic
composition is comprised between 2 and 12, preferably between 5 and
10.5 and particularly between 7.5 and 10.5 . The pH is adapted by
using acidifying or alkaline agents.
Mention may be made, among the acidifying agents, by way of
example, of inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid,
orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as acetic
acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
Regarding the alkaline agent, if it is present, it may be chosen
from the alkaline agents described hereinbefore.
In accordance with that stated hereinbefore, the aqueous
cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also be
used in a method for bleaching keratin fibres. According to this
variant, the composition does not contain any oxidative dyes. In
accordance with that stated hereinbefore, the aqueous cosmetic
composition according to the present invention may also be used in a
method for oxidatively colouring keratin fibres.
According to a first embodiment, the present invention relates
to a method for dyeing keratin fibres, particularly human keratin
fibres such as hair, comprising the application to said fibres of a
cosmetic composition as defined hereinbefore, one or more oxidative
dyes, and preferably one or more alkaline agents, in the presence of an
oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing
agents, for long enough to develop the desired colour.
According to this method, the oxidative dye(s) may be applied
before or after the composition of the invention. A composition
resulting from mixing these compounds can also be applied to hair.
The oxidizing composition may be added to the composition of
the invention directly on the keratin fibres before or after applying the
composition of the present invention. Preferably, the oxidizing
composition is added to the composition of the invention at the time of
use.
According to another embodiment, the present invention relates
to method for dyeing keratin fibres, particularly human keratin fibres
such as hair, comprising applying to said fibres:
- a cosmetic composition (A) as defined previously optionally
comprising one or more alkaline agents,
- a dyeing composition (B) comprising one or more oxidative
dyes and optionally one or more alkaline agents,
- an oxidizing composition (C) comprising one or more
chemical oxidizing agents.
Preferably, the dyeing composition (B) is an aqueous
composition.
More preferably still, the water concentration may range from
10% to 90% by weight, better still from 20% to 80% of the total
weight of the composition.
The pH of the dyeing composition (B), if it is aqueous, is
between 2 and 12 and preferably between 8 and 11. The pH is adapted
by using acidifying or alkaline agents such as those indicated
previously.
Preferably, the dyeing composition (B) comprises one or more
alkaline agents, preferably one or more organic amines, in particular
alkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.
According to a first variant of this second embodiment,
compositions (A), (B) and (C), more specifically composition (A) then
(B) then (C) or (B) then (A) then (C), are applied to wet or dry keratin
fibres, successively and without intermediate rinsing.
In accordance with a second variant of this second
embodiment, the composition resulting from mixing prior to
application of compositions (A) and (B) then oxidizing composition
(C) are applied to keratin fibres, successively and without intermediate
rinsing.
According to a third variant of this embodiment, a composition
obtained by extemporaneous mixing, before application, of
compositions (A), (B) and (C) is applied to the wet or dry keratin
fibres. This variant is preferred. According to this variant, the final
composition resulting from the mixture of (A), (B) and (C) contains at
least 20% by weight of fatty substance. In this variant, the weight
ratios Rl of the amounts of compositions (A)+(B)/(C) and R2 of the
amounts of compositions (A)/(B) vary from 0 .1 to 10 and preferably
from 0.3 to 3.
Preferably, compositions (A), (B) and (C) are mixed before
use.
Both for colouring and lightening, the mixtures obtained are
then applied to the keratin fibres with a leave-on time of about 3 to 50
minutes, preferably about 5 to 35 minutes; the keratin fibres are
rinsed, washed with shampoo, rinsed again then dried.
More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent(s) are chosen
from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal
bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance alkali
metal or alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates and
percarbonates, and also peracids and their precursors. One or more
redox enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron
oxidoreductases (such as uricase), optionally in the presence of their
respective donor or cofactor, may also be used as oxidizing agent.
Preferably, the oxidizing agent or agents are chosen from hydrogen
peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide or alkali metal bromates or
ferricyanides.
This chemical oxidizing agent is advantageously formed from
hydrogen peroxide especially in aqueous solution (aqueous hydrogen
peroxide solution), whose concentration may range more particularly
from 0 .1% to 50% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 20%
by weight and better still from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the
weight of the oxidizing composition.
With the goal of lightening and depending on the desired
degree of lightening, the hydrogen peroxide can be combined with one
or more peroxygenated salts.
The oxidizing composition is in various forms, for instance a
solution, an emulsion or a gel.
Compositions (B) and (C) may optionally comprise one or more
conventional solvents and additives, such as those indicated
previously.
In addition, independently of the embodiment used, the mixture
present on the fibres (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixing
of the compositions, or from the successive application of these
compositions) is left in place for a time, generally from about 1 minute
to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 35 minutes.
The temperature during the method is conventionally between
room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably
between room temperature and 60°C.
After the treatment, the human keratin fibres are optionally
rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed
with water, before being dried or left to dry.
The present invention also relates to a first multi-compartment
device using a first compartment containing the aqueous cosmetic
composition (A) as defined hereinbefore, a second compartment
containing a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more
chemical oxidizing agents, and one or more oxidative dyes, and
optionally one or more alkaline agents being used in the aqueous
cosmetic composition according to the invention (A), or in a distinct
dyeing composition (B) contained in a third compartment.
Specifically, the device comprises a first compartment
containing the aqueous cosmetic composition (A) as defined
hereinbefore, a second compartment containing the dyeing
composition (B) comprising one or more oxidative dyes, and
optionally one or more alkaline agents, and a third compartment
containing an oxidizing composition (C).
The present invention also relates to a second mult i
compartment device using a first compartment containing the aqueous
cosmetic composition (A) as defined hereinbefore and optionally
comprising one or more alkaline agents, a second compartment
containing a cosmetic composition (C) comprising one or more
chemical oxidizing agents.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention
without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Example 1
The following compositions are prepared (quantities expressed
s)
Cosmetic composition B:
100 g
1-Methyl-2,5-diaminobenzene 2.53
1,3-Dihydroxybenzene (resorcinol) 2.2
6-Hydroxybenzomorpholine 0 .11
1-Hydroxy- 3-amino -benzene 0.4
1--Hydroxyet hyloxy- 2,4- diamino benzene dihydrochloride 0.066
Monoethanolamine 15.1
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.5
Powdered sodium metabisulfite 0.7
Ascorbic acid 0.25
Diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid 1
Propylene glycol 6.2
Ethanol 8.25
Hexylene glycol 3
Dipropylene glycol 3
Demineralized water qsp 100%
Composition (CI)
At the time of use, first the following are mixed:
- 9 grams of the aqueous composition (Al),
- 1 gram of composition (B)
- 10 grams of the oxidizing aqueous composition (CI).
The mixture obtained, whose pH is about 10 (+ 0 . 1), is then
applied to tresses of virgin Caucasian hair with 90% natural white
hairs (NW), the "mixture/tress" bath ratio is 10/1 (g/g) respectively,
the leave-on time is 30 minutes at 27°C.
After this leave-on time, the tresses are washed with iNOA
POST shampoo, rinsed then dried in a hood dryer at 60°C.
The colour of the tresses was evaluated in the CIE L* a * b *
system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter, In
this system L* a * b*, the three parameters designate the colour
intensity (L*), a * indicates the green/red colour axis and b * the
blue/yellow colour axis respectively.
The variation in colour between the tresses of white hair
comprising 90% natural white hairs (90 NW) untreated (control) and
after treatment or dyeing are defined by (*) according to the
following equation:
AE* =-/( *- *)2+(a* - a *)2+(b*-b *)2
In this equation, L*, a * and b * represent the values measured
on tresses of hair after dyeing and L0*, a0* and bo* represent the
values measured on tresses of non-coloured virgin hair. The greater
the value of *, the better the colour coverage.
Results
The results are collated in the following table:
A powerful colour is obtained and observed on the tress of hair
when composition (Al) is used.
Example 2
The following compositions are prepared (quantities expressed
grams):
Composition (C2) :
Liquid petrolatum 20
Fatty alcohols 2.28
non-ionic surfactants 1.42
Glycerol 0.5
Hydrogen peroxide 6
Hydrogen peroxide stabilizers 0 . 12
Demineralized water qsp 100
At the time of use, the following are mixed:
- 10 grams of the aqueous composition (A2),
- 4 grams of composition (B)
- 15 grams of the oxidizing aqueous composition (C2).
The mixture obtained, whose pH is about 9.8 (+ 0 . 1), is then
applied to a tress of virgin Caucasian hair with 90% natural white
hairs (NW). The "mixture/tress" bath ratio is from 10/1 (g/g)
respectively, the leave-on time is 30 minutes at 27°C.
After this leave-on time, the tress is washed with iNOA POST
shampoo, rinsed then dried in a hood dryer at 60°C.
Results
The results are collated in the following table:
Using composition (A2) according to the invention in an
oxidative colouring method, a powerful colour is obtained on the hair
tress.
CLAIMS
1. Aqueous cosmetic composition comprising:
(i) one or more fatty substances in a content ranging from
40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
(ii) one or more oxyethylenated fatty alcohols having a
number of oxyethylenes less than or equal to 10, and
(iii) one or more alkylpolyglucoside-type non-ionic
surfactants.
2 . Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in
that the fatty substance(s) are chosen from compounds that are liquid
or pasty at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
3. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2,
characterized in that the fatty substance(s) are chosen from C -Ci
lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic
origin, non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty
alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and silicones.
4 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the fatty substance(s) are chosen from
liquid petrolatum, 2-octyldodecanol, perhydrosqualene, polydecenes,
liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, or their mixtures.
5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols have the
following structure:
ROin
which:
R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical
containing from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, particularly from 8 to 30,
preferably below 16, more preferably from 10 to 15 and Z denotes an
oxyethylenated radical having the following formula (I):
—CH—CH—O
(I)
m denotes the number of ethylene oxide groups below 10,
preferably ranging from 2 to 10 .
6 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the oxyethylenated fatty alcohols are
saturated or unsaturated, linear fatty alcohols, containing from 10 to
20 carbon atoms, in particular 12 carbon atoms, and from 2 to 8
ethylene oxide groups, particularly two ethylene oxide groups.
7 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucoside-type non-ionic
surfactants are represented by the following general formula (II):
( )
in which Ri designates a linear or branched alkyl and/or
alkenyl radical comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, an
alkylphenyl radical in which the linear or branched alkyl group
comprises from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 denotes an alkylene
radical comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, L designates a reducing
sugar containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, a designates a value
ranging from 0 to 10, and b designates a value ranging from 1 to 15.
8. Cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in
that the alkylpolyglucoside-type non-ionic surfactants are compounds
having formula (II) in which Ri designates more specifically a linear
or branched alkyl and/or alkenyl radical containing from 9 to 14
carbon atoms, a designates a value ranging from 0 to 3 and even more
particularly equal to zero, L designates glucose, fructose or galactose
and the degree of polymerization (S) of the saccharide, i.e. the value
of b in the formula (II), may range from 1 to 15.
9 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it comprises water in a content ranging
from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
10 . Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more
alkaline agents, preferably chosen from organic amines and ammonium
salts, better still from alkanolamines and ammonium carbonate.
11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the
preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more
oxidative dyes, preferably chosen from one or more oxidation bases,
optionally combined with one or more couplers.
12. Method for bleaching keratin fibres, particularly human
keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the application to said fibres of
a cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to
10, in the presence of a composition comprising one or more chemical
oxidizing agents, for long enough to develop the desired colour.
13. Method for colouring keratin fibres, particularly human
keratin fibres such as hair, comprising the application to said fibres of
a cosmetic composition as defined according to Claim 11, in the
presence of a composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing
agents, for long enough to develop the desired colour.
14. Multi-compartment device using a first compartment
containing the aqueous cosmetic composition as defined according to
any one of Claims 1 to 8, a second compartment containing a cosmetic
composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, and one or more
oxidative dyes, and optionally one or more alkaline agents being used
in said aqueous cosmetic composition, or in a distinct composition
contained in a third compartment.
15. Second multi-compartment device using a first compartment
containing the aqueous cosmetic composition (A) as defined
hereinbefore and optionally comprising one or more alkaline agents, a
second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (C)
comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
16 . Methods and devices according to any one of Claims 12 to
15, characterized in that the chemical oxidizing agent is hydrogen
peroxide.