Photoprotective cream based on a fatty acid
The invention relates to a composition that is in cream form and that contains UV screening agents and soaps, and to the use of said composition, in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or of the face, eyelashes and/or lips/ and/or for haircare, more particularly for the photoprotection of the skin and hair.
It is known to introduce sunscreens (or UV screening agents) into cosmetic compositions intended especially for skincare, in order to obtain care compositions which at the same time have photoprotective properties, in order to provide the skin with protection against UV rays and in particular against the sun's rays/ this protection having to be provided even without intentional exposure to the sun. Many cosmetic compositions, and especially care compositions, are in the form of oil-in-water !0/W) emulsions. However, the lipophilic sunscreens, when they are in a large amount, give the 0/W emulsions a cosmetic feel which is judged by the users as greasy and tacky. Moreover, the introduction of these screening agents results in the composition giving the skin a shiny appearance, which it is generally desired to avoid. The expression "large amount" is understood co mean an amount greater than 10% of the total weight of the composition.
The solutions commonly used to improve the cosmetic qualities of such compositions consist in incorporating absorbent fillers such as starch, expanded powders or any other similar filler. However, these additions give complex compositions, having higher costs, which are in addition more difficult to stabilize and more difficult to control raicrobiologically.
There is therefore the need for a composition that is in the form of 0/W emulsions, especially having the
appearance of a cream, and which contains lipophilic sunscreens in a large amount/ which have good cosmetic properties.
The Applicant has surprisingly found that compositions based on soap, that is wO say based on a fatty acid salt, nake it possible to obtain compositions containing lipophilic screening agents that: have better cosmetic qualities than the emulsions of the prior art and in particular that give a non-greasy and non-tacky feel and a matt appearance to the skin even in the presence of a large amount of lipophilic screening agents.
Thus, one subject of the present invention is a' composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains (1) one or more lipophilic UV screening agents in an amount greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (2) one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, (3) at least one basic agent in a sufficient amount so that the composition has a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and so that at most 90% of the fatty acids are in free form.
As uhe composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The expression "physiologically acceptable medium" is understood to mean a medium compatible with the skin, lips, nails, scalp and/or hair.
Despite the presence of a large amount of lipophilic screening agents/ the composition according to the invention has good cosmetic properties, that is to say that it leaves neither a greasy effect ncr a tacky effect after application to the skin and that it is
pleasant to use.
The composition of the invention is in the form of a cream that is more or less fluid, that is to say a soft product as opposed tc a solid product such as a stick. Thus, this composition has a viscosity at 25°C that ranges from around 10 to 150 poise (1 to 15 Pa.s) and preferably from around 15 to 100 poise (1.5 to 10 Pa.s), this viscosity being measured with a Rheomat 130 machine at 25°C with suitable spindles.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is free from non-ionic hydrophilic eraulsifier that is to say one having an HLB greater than or equal to 9, and/or free' from hydrophilic amphoteric surfactant.
Lipophilic 'JV screening agents
The composition of the invention contains one or more lipophilic UV screening agents, which are. organic screening agents. The total amount of lipophilic screening agents is greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferably at least 11% by weight and better still at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The total amount of lipophilic screening agents may range, for example, from 11 to 20% by weight, preferably from 12 to 20% by weight and better still from 15 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The lipophilic UV screening agents may be screening agents that screen in the UVA or UVB range.
As lipophilic UV screening agents, mention may be made, for example, of those chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylraethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in documents
US-A-4 367 390, EP-A-863 145, EP-A-517 104, EP-A-570 838, EP-A-796 851, SP-A-775'698, EP-A-878 469, EP-A-933 376, EP-A-507 691, EP-A-507 692, EP-A-790 243, EP-A-944 624; benzophenone derivatives; p,j}-diphenyl-acryiate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalinalonate derivatives and especially those cited in document US-A-5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PAEA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives such as described in documents EP-A-0 832 642, EP-A-1 027 883, EP-A-1 300 137 and DE-A-10162844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described, in particular/ in document WO-93/Q4665; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene such as those described in document_ DE-A-19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in documents DE-A-19755649, EP-A-916 335, EP-A-1 133 980, EP-A-1 133 981 and EP-A-1 008 586; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of lipophilic screening agents, mention may more especially be made of those denoted above under their INCI names:
1) para-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives:
Ethyl PABA;
Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA;
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold, in particular, under the
name ESCALOL 50" by ISP.
2) Salicylic derivatives:
Homosalate sold under the name EUSOLEX HMS by Rona/
EM Industries;
Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name
NEO HELIOPAN OS by Haarmann and Reimer; and
TEA Salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by
Haarmann and Reimsr.
3) Dibenzoylmethane derivatives:
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold, in particular,
under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by Hoffmann Laroche;
and
Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane.
4} Cinnamic derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold, in particular, under
the trade name PARSOL MCX by Hoffmann Laroche;
Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate?
Isoamyl Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name
NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by Haarmann and Reimer;
Cinoxate; and
Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate.
5) 3,p-Diphenylacrylate derivatives:
Octocrylene sold, in particular, under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF; and
Etocrylene sold, in particular, under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF.
6) Benzophenor.e derivatives:
Ben20phencne~l sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by
BASF;
Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by
BASF;
Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name
UVINUL M40 by BASF;
Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name HELISORB 11 by
Norquay;
Benzophencne-9 sold under the trade name SPECTRA-SORB
UV-24 by American Cyanamid;
3enzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49
by BASF; and
n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,
7} Benzylidene camphor derivatives:
3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name
MEXORYL SC by Chimex; and
4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the nanns EUSOLEX 5300 by Merck.
8) Triazine derivatives:
Bis-Ethylhexyioxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by Ciba Geigy; Ethylhexyl Triazone sold, in particular, under the trade name UVINUL 1150 by BASF;
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade
name UVASORB HEB by Sigma 3V;
2,4, 6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amir.obenzalmalo.nate} -s-
triazine; and
2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate) -s-
triazine.
9) Benzotriazole derivatives:
Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name SILATRIZOLE by Rhodia Chimie.
10) Anthranilic derivatives:
Menthyl Anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Haarmann and Reimer.
11) Iruidazoline derivatives:
Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate.
12) Benzalmalonate derivatives:
Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate; and
Polycrganosiloxane having benzalmalonate functional
groups such as Polysilicone-15 sold under the trade
name PARSOL SIX by Hoffmann Laroche.
13) Aromatic butadiene derivatives:
4,4-diarylbutadiena:
1,1-dicarboxy(2',2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenyl-butadiene.
14) Benzoxazole derivatives:
2,4 -bi s[5-(1,1-dimethylpropyl)benzoxazole-2-yl-(4-phenyl)iminoJ-S-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-triazine sold under the name UVASORB K2A by Sigma 3V,
15) and mixtures of these screening agents.
The most particularly preferred lipophilic organic screening agents are chosen from the following compounds:
• Horr.osalate;
• Echylhexyl Salicylate;
• Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate;
» Octocrylene;
• Butyl Methoxydibenzoylraethane;
• Benzophenone-3;

• n^hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-
benzoate;
• 4~Methylbenzylidene camphor;
• 2,4,6-txis(dineopentyl 4'-aminoben2almalonate)-
s-triazine;
• 2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobeazalmalonate)-
s-triazine;
• Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine;
« Ethylhexyl Triazcne;
• Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazons;
• Dxornetrizole Trisiloxane;
• Polysilicone-15;
• Dineoperityl 4'-methoxyben2alnialonate;
» 1,1-dicarboxy(2',2'-dim8thylpropyl)-4,4-
diphenylbutadiane; » 2,4-bis[5-(1,i-diroethylprcpyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-
(4'phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-1,3,5-
triazine;
• and mixtures thereof.
The most especially preferred lipophilic organic
screening agents are chosen from:
Homosalate;
Ethylhexyl Salicylate; Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate; Octocrylene;
Butyl Metnoxydifcenzoylmsthane; Ethylhexyl Triazone; Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone; Drometrizole Trisiloxane; and mixtures thereof.
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, one or more organic UV screening agents active in the UYA and/or UVB range, which are insoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.
Among the insoluble organic UV screening agents, mention may be made of those described in documents US-A-5 237 071, US-A-5 166 355, GB-A-2 203 549, DE-A-197 26 184 and EP-A-893 119 and in particular the derivatives of raethylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) such as Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl T&tramethylbutylphenol sold in solid form under the trade name WIXXIM BB/100 by Fairraount Chemical or in rnicronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trade name TINOSORB M by Ciba Specialty Chemicals,
The compositions according to the invention may also comprise/ in addition, one or more complementary inorganic UV screening agents.
Among the complementary inorganic UV screening agents, mention may be made of coated or ur.coated metal oxide pigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 run, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) , such as for example pigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of iron oxide, cf zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide and mixtures thereof. Conventional coating agents are moreover alumina and/or aluminium stearate. Such coated or
uncoated metal oxide pigments are, in particular, described in documents EP-A-518 772 and EF-A-518 773.
The complementary (insoluble or inorganic) screening agents may be present in the compositions according to the invention, for example, in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Fatty acids
The composition according to the invention contains one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may, in particular, be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid and lauric acid, and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one fatty acid comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms (Cu-C30) and better from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, especially chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures thereof. In this preferred embodiment, the fatty acids comprising from 8 to 14 atoms (Ce-Cn) which may be present in addition to the C16~C3o fatty acids, are preferably prssent in an amount less than or equal to 21 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; this amount possibly ranging from 0 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 2%, and better still from 0.0001 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The total amount of fatty acid(s) is at least 10% by weight, and it may range, for example, from 10 to 50%, preferably from 11 to 40% by weight and better still from 12 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
One par- of the fatty acids is saponified (neutralized) by the basic agent, but one part must remain in free fatty acid form. The amount of free, that is to say unsaponified, fatty acid must be at least 40% by weight and at most 90% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acid. The amount of free fatty acid preferably ranges fron 40 to 90% by weight and better still from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty acid.
Basic agent
As basic agents, use may be made, for example, of alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide; alkaline-earth, metal hydroxides such as, for example, magnesium hydroxide; ammonium hydroxide; or else • organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. Use may also be made of a mixture of these basic agents.
The basic agent is preferably an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide (KCH).
The amount of basic agent(s) must be sufficient so that the composition has a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and preferably from 7 to 8, and so that a certain amount of fatty acid remains in free fatty acid form. This amount of basic agent may range, for example, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight and better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight cf the composition.
The basic agent is preferably present in the aqueous phase.
Fatty alcohol
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains at least one fatty alcohol chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty alcohols
comprising from 12 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred fatty alcohols are behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol,
The fatty alcohol or alcchols may be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight and preferably from 0,5 to 10% by weight and better still from 0,5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may range from 40 to 90% by weight and preferably from 50 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It contains at least water, which may form all of the aqueous phase or only one part. However, the amount of water is preferably at least 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may contain, besides water, one or more solvents that are miscible with water or at least partly miscible with water, such as polyols; C2 to C6 monoalcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol; and C3 to C( ketones that are liquid at ambient temperature. The expression ''ambient temperature" should be understood to mean a temperature of around 25*C, at standard atmospheric pressure ("760 mmHg) .
The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyi groups. As polyols, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glyccl, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, sorbitol, and sugars such as glucose.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the amount of water-miscible solvents is preferably
less than 10%. It may range, for example/ from 0.05 to 9.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 9% by weight and better still from 0,5 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oily phase
The oily phase may be present in an amount ranging from 10 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase is composed of fatty acicis, fatty alcohols, lipophilic screening agents and all the other lipophilic constituents and especially oils which may be present in the composition of the invention.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains at least one oil, The term voil" is understood to be a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25*C).
As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as
perhydrosqualene (or squalanej;
- synthetic esters and ethers, especially cf fatty
acids, such as the oils of formulae R1COGRJ and J^OR2 in
which R1 represents the residue of a fatty' acid
comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and Rz represents
a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain
containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for
example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl
myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl
stearate, 2-octyldodecyl arucate, isostearyl
isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl
lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl
hydroxystear^te, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl
citrate, heptanoates, cctanoates and decanoates of
fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol
dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol
esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
lipophilic derivatives of amino acids, ' such as Isoprcpyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate (INCI name} sold under the trade name ELDEW SL 205 by Ajinomoto;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or
synthetic origin, such as mineral oils (mixture of
hydrocarbon-based oils derived from oil; INCI name:
Mineral Oil), volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils,
and derivatives thereof, vaseline, polydecenes,
isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin
such as Parleam oil® sold by NOF Corporation (INCI
name: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene); and
- mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase of the composition contains at least one oil chosen from branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated isoparaffin such as Parleam oil®, and mixtures thereof,
The amount of oils may range, for example, from 0.1 to 10%, better still from 0.5 to 5% relative to the total v;eight of the composition.
Adjuvants
In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain customary adjuvants used in the cosmetic and/or dermatological fields, such as the active agents other than the screening agents mentioned above, preservatives, antioxidants and free-radical scavengers, complexing agents, fragrances, fillers, bactericides, odour absorbers, colouring materials (pigments and dyes) and also lipid vesicles. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field in question, and are, for example, from 0,01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, may be introduced into the oily phase, into the aqueous phase and/or into the lipid vesicles.
As fillers which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of talc; zinc oxides; titanium oxides such as titanium dioxide; micas of natural or synthetic origin; calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate; silica, in particular spherical silica, silice powder sold under the trade name CAB-0-SIL TS 530 by Cabot, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the trade name SB150 by Myoshi; kaolin; glass and ceramic beads sold by 3M under the trade name MACROLITE; metal soaps derived front an organic carboxylie acid having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; polyamide particles, and especially those sold under the trade name ORGASOL by Arkema; powders of unexpanded synthetic polymers, such as the powders of polyethylene, of polystyrene, of polyesters, of polyamides (for example nylon or poly-jJ-alanine), of acrylate copolymers (for example the microporous microspheres sold by Dow Corning under the trade name POLYTRAP), of polymethacrylic acids, of Teflon® (pclytetrafluoroethylene) such as the products sold under the trade name FLUON by Uniqema; expanded powders such as the hollow microspheres made of a thermoplastic material prepared by known processes, such as those described in documents US-A-3 615 972 and EP-A-Q 56 219, and especially, the microspheres' sold under the trade name EXPANCEL by Kemanord Plast or under the trade name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by Matsumoto; the powders of natural organic materials such as crosslinked or ur.crosslinked corn, wheat or rice starches, such as the powders of starch crossllnJced by octer.yl succinate anhydride, sold under the trade name DRY-FLO by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the trade name TOSPEARL by Toshiba Silicone; fibres; and mixtures thereof.
When they are present, these fillers may be in an
amount ranging, for example, from Q.OI to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight and better still from 0,5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As active agents that cgn be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of enzymes (for example, lactcperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase, cellulases); flavonoids; moisturizing agents such as protein hydrclysates; sodium hyaluronate; polyols such as glycerol, glycols such as polyethylene glycols, and sugar derivatives; anti-inflammatory agent$; procyanidolic oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol)/ vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 •panthenol], vitamin 33 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depignventing agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; ct-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; sunscreens; hydrocortisone; melatonin; algae, mushroom, plant, yeast and bacterial extracts; steroids; anti-bacterial agents such as 2,4,4'~tri-chloro~2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above and especially salicylic acid and its derivatives; matifying agents; tightening agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any active agents suitable for the final purpose of the composition.
The amount of active agents depends on the desiced purpose. The active agent or agents may be, for example, present in a concentration ranging from 0.001 to 10% and preferably from 0.01 to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may optionally contain one or more gelling polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers, polyacrylamidss or polysaccharides. But the addition of such a polymer is not necessary to have good stability. The amount of these polymers may range, for example, from 0.005 to 2% by weight and better still from 0,01 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. However, the composition may be free of gelling polymer.
Of course, a person skilled in the art will be sure to choose the optional compound or compounds to add to the composition according to the invention and their amounts so that the advantageous properties intrinsically linked to the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition.
The composition according to the invention may especially be in the form of a more or less fluid cream, and it may especially form a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It thus finds an application in a large number of treatments, especially cosmetic treatmsnts for the skin, in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or lips and/or for haircare, especially for protecting the skin against uv rays.
Thus, one subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin and/or lips and/or for haircare.
Another subject of the invention ia a method for cosmetic treatment of a keratinous substance, especially the skin, including the scalp, hair, and/or lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the keratinous substance.
The composition according to the invention may advantageously be prepared by using one particular method, a method consisting ir. heating the fatty acids and fatty alcohols (for example at a temperature of around 70°C to 9C°C), and in mixing therein the remainder of the oily phase, in pouring the oily phase intc the aqueous phase which has been brought to 80°C and does rot contain the basic agent, and in nixing, with vigorous stirring, that is to say at stirring speeds ranging from around 10CO to 10 000 rpm, for example using an emulsifier machine, for a sufficient time so that the emulsion forms, for example 5 to 10 minutes, in order to obtain a fine emulsion, then in adding the basic agent while slowly stirring so that saponification occurs, and in cooling before optionally adding the fillers or heat-sensitive active agents.
The examples below of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and non-limitingly. The amounts are given therein in % by weight, except where mentioned otherwise.
(Table Removed)
Procedure: Phase Al was heated to 80eC in a tank equipped with an emulsifier machine, and phase A2, also brought to 30°C, was added thereto, then the mixture was poured into phase B which had previously been mixed together and brought to SO'C, while stirring at a. high rate for 2 minutes. Next, phase C was introduced by mixing using blades for 10 minutes. The mixture was cooled to ambient temperature and homogenized to obtain a smooth and homogeneous cream.
A non-greasy and non-tacky film-forming composition was obtained that had a dry feel and. a matt appearance,
(Table Removed)
Starch powder
Procedure for the comparative example;
Phases Al and Bl were heated to 65*C, Then, phase 31
was poured into phase Al under high shear. The mixture
was stirred for a few minutes and then cooled to 40"C.
Next, phases Cl and C2 were introduced. The mixture was
cooled to ambient temperature and phase D was
introduced.
A film-forming composition was obtained that gives a greasy and shiny appearance to the skin.
The comparison between Example 1 of the invention and the comparative example shows that the composition according to the invention has better cosmetic properties than a conventional emulsion.
Furthermore, the solar protection factor (SPF) of the compositions was compared:
(Table Removed)
These results show that the example according to the invention i& less tacky and gives less shiny, therefore more matt, skin than the composition of the comparative example.
Furthermore, the SPF of the composition of the comparative example has a very high standard deviation, which means that the two compositions have an almost identical SPF.
The composition of the present invention shows unexpected or surprising properties.

We Claims:-
1. Composition for topical application, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising an oily phase dispersed In an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains (1) one or more lipophilic UV screening agents in an amount greater than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, (2) one or more fatty acids chosen from linear or branched saturated fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, where the total amount of said fatty acid(s) is at least 10% by weight, (3) at least one basic agent in a sufficient amount so that the composition has a pH ranging from 6 to 9 and so that at most 90% of the fatty acids are in free form,
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in
that the composition contains at least one fatty
acid comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms chosen
from palmitic acid, stearic acid, and mixtures
thereof,
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, charac
terized in that the amount of fatty acid(s) ranges
from 10 tc 50% and preferably from 11 to 40% by
weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the basic agent is
chosen from alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline-
earth metal hydroxides, aiwnonium hydroxide and
organic bases.
5. Composition according to any on© of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the amount of basic
agent (s) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight and
preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
S. Composition according'to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of free fatty acid(s) ranges from 40 to 9C% by weight and preferably from 50 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of fatty acid(s),
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the lipophilic
screening agent or agents are chosen from
anthranilates; dibenzoylmethane derivatives;
cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives;
camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives;
P,j3-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine
derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives;
benzalmalonate derivatives; benzinddazole
derivatives; imidazolines; bisbenzoazolyl
derivatives; p-arainobenzoic acid (PABA)
derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives; screening
polymers and screening silicones; dinners derived
from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadienes and
mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the lipophilic
screening agent or agents are chosen from
hcmosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl
methoxyc-nnamate, octocrylene, butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane, benzophenone-3, n-hexyl
2-(4-(diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoater
4-methylbenzylidene camphor, 2,4,6-tris-
(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalraalonatej-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris{diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-
triaziner bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl
butamido triazone, drometrizole trisiloxar.e, poly-
silicons 15, dineopentyl 4/-methoxybenzalmalonate,
1,1-dicarboxy (2' ,2'-dirtiethylpropyl)-4, 4-diphenyl-
butadiene, 2,4-bis(5-(1,1-dimethylpropyL)-benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)iminoj-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, and mixtures thereof.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the amount of
lipophilic screening agent (s) ranges from 11 to
20% by weight, preferably from 12 to 20% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition,
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it comprises, in
addition, one or more fatty alcohols.
11. Composition according to the preceding claim,
characterized in that the amount of fatty
alcohol (s) ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight and
preferably from 0,5 to 10% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase
ranges from 40 to 90% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the oily phase
contains at least one oil chosen from branched
hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it forms a cosmetic
or dermatological composition.
15. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according
to any one of Claims 1 to 13, for caring for,
protecting and/or making up the skin and/or lips
and/or for haircare.
16. Method for cosmetic treatment of a keratinous substance, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13 is applied to the iceratinous substance,
17. A composition, cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition and a method for cosmetic treatment substantially as herein described with reference to the forgoing examples and descriptions.