DESCRIPTION
POWDERY COSMETIC COMPOSITION
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition, a cosmetic process using the
same, and a manufacturing process of the same.
BACKGROUND ART
Long lastingness and good UV protecting effects are among the key functions of face make-up
products in Asia, especially in hot and humid weather such as Indonesia, Thailand, etc.
To date, various documents regarding compositions including perlite have been published.
WO2012/035512 discloses a solid cosmetic makeup and/or care composition in the form of a
powder comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:
- a fatty phase containing at least one silicone polyamide and a silicone resin, and
- at least one pulverulent phase containing at least perlite.
WO2013/041274 discloses a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a powder, which is
preferably compacted, comprising at least:
- a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition, comprising at least one perlite in the form of particles in an amount
of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- a liquid fatty phase,
in which the perlite particles and the liquid fatty phase are present in the composition in a
respective total content such that the weight ratio of the perlite particles to the liquid fatty phase
ranges from 2 to 25.
WO2012/0355 12 and WO2013/041274 disclose a solid cosmetic composition in the form of a
powder, and they disclose incorporating perlite into a solid cosmetic composition especially in a
powder form.
WO2009/007248 discloses pigments, comprising a plate-like substrate of perlite, and (a) a
dielectric material, especially a metal oxide, having a high index of refraction; and/or (a) a metal
layer, especially a thin semi-transparent metal layer; a process for their production and their use
in paints, ink-jet printing, for dyeing textiles, for pigmenting coatings, printing inks, plastics,
cosmetics, glazes for ceramics and glass.
WO2009/007248 discloses a pigment in which a metal oxide layer (e.g., Ti0 2) is coated on a
perlite base.
However, WO2012/035512 and WO2013/04 1274 are silent on using perlite with an inorganic
UV filter powder at the same time. Also, WO2009/007248 does not disclose a specific formula
for a powdery cosmetic composition.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a powdery cosmetic composition which can
produce long lasting cosmetic effects, as well as good UV filtering effects.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a powdery cosmetic
composition comprising a pulverulent phase, wherein the pulverulent phase comprises:
(i) perlite in an amount of from 5 wt% to 70 wt% in relation to the total weight of the
composition, and.
(ii) at least one inorganic UV filter powder having an average primary particle size of lower
than 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process including a step of applying the powdery
cosmetic composition according to the present invention to the skin, in particular the face.
The present invention also relates to a manufacturing process of a powdery cosmetic
composition comprising a step of (i) mixing perlite and an inorganic UV filter powder having an
average primary particle size of lower than 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more
preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm, to provide a pulverulent mixture, wherein an amount of the
perlite is from 5 wt% to 70 wt% in relation to the total weight of the composition.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that a combination of perlite and inorganic
UV filter powder can provide a cosmetic composition which can produce long lasting cosmetic
effects, as well as better UV filtering effects.
[Composition]
Thus, the present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition comprising a pulverulent
phase, wherein the pulverulent phase comprises:
(i) perlite in an amount of from 5 wt% to 70 wt% in relation to the total weight of the
composition, and.
(ii) at least one inorganic UV filter powder having an average primary particle size of lower
than 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention can provide long lasting
cosmetic effects. Therefore, the powdery cosmetic composition can provide the skin with an
attractive appearance for a long time. In addition, the powdery cosmetic composition according
to the present invention can provide better UV protecting effects. Therefore, the powdery
cosmetic composition exhibits a good performance in protecting the skin from UV stresses.
Furthermore, the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention does not
require a large amount of inorganic UV filter powder to achive sufficient UV protecting effects.
Therefore, the powdery cosmetic composition can contribute to cost reduction, because the
composition can be manufactured without any special industrial processes, for example special
mixing or milling processes, which are expensive and complicated and generally applied in the
case that a large amount of inorganic UV filter powder is included in the composition.
Hereinafter, the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be
explained in a more detailed manner.
(I) Pulverulent Phase
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a pulverulent
phase. The pulverulent phase comprises perlite and at least one one inorganic UV filter powder.
The pulverulent phase is a solid state at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure
(760 mmHg).
The powdery composition according to the present invention advantageously has a pulverulent
phase content of 40% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more, more preferably
from 60% to 98% by weight, and still more preferably from 70% to 95% by weight in relation to
the total weight of the powdery cosmetic composition.
• Perlite
Perlite is used for providing the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present
invention with long lasting cosmetic effects. Furthermore, together with the inorganic UV filter
powder, the perlite can produce synergy effects that enhance the UV protecting effects which are
produced by the inorganic UV filter powder in the composition.
The perlite is preferably present in a fine particle form in the composition. More preferably, the
perlite is present in the form of primary particles in the composition. The perlite in the primary
particle form is also present in a free particle form. The term "free particle form" here means
that the particle does not bind chemically or physically to other particles.
The average primary particle size of the perlite ranges from 0.5 mh to 50 mhi, preferably 1 mhi to
40 m h, and more preferably 3 m i to 30 mhi. The average primary particle size here means a
number-average size mean diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to
half of the population, referred to as D50. For example, such a number-average size mean
diameter of the perlite can be measured by a laser diffraction particle size distribution analyzer,
such as Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp.
The perlite is generally obtained from natural glass of volcanic origin, of light-grey or glossy
black colour, resulting from the rapid cooling of lava, and which is in the form of small particles
resembling pearls. When heated above 800°C, perlite has the particular feature of losing the
water it contains and of adopting a porous expanded form (representing from four to twenty
times its initial volume), enabling it to absorb large amounts of liquid, in particular oil and water.
In this form, perlite has a white colour and pore structure.
The perlite, which is of mineral origin, is directly extracted from the ground and then finely
ground to obtain a very fine white powder: perlite powder or perlite particles.
The perlite particles are thus particles of amorphous mineral materials, which are advantageously
expanded, derived from at least one volcanic rock.
These particles comprise at least two elements chosen from silicon, aluminium and magnesium.
More particularly, these mineral materials are obtained by thermal expansion of a volcanic or
"effusive" rock comprising from 1% to 10% by weight of water and preferably 1% to 5% by
weight of water and less than 10% by weight of crystalline rock relative to the total weight of the
rock composition and preferably followed by grinding. The temperature of the expansion
process may range from 700 to 1500°C and preferably from 800 to 1100°C. The expansion
process described in US Patent No. 5,002,698 may especially be used.
Volcanic or "effusive" rocks are generally produced by the rapid cooling of liquid magma in
contact with air or water (a quenching phenomenon which yields a hyaline rock). The volcanic
rocks that may be used according to the present invention are chosen from those defined
according to the Streckeisen classification (1974). Among these volcanic rocks, mention may
be made especially of trachytes, latites, andesites, basalts, rhyolites and dacites. Rhyolites and
dacites are particularly suitable for use, and even more particularly rhyolites.
The perlite particles that may be used according to the invention are preferably aluminosilicates
of volcanic origin. They may advantageously have the following composition:
70.0-75.0% by weight of silica Si0 2
12.0-15.0% by weight of oxide of aluminium oxide A 120 3
3.0-5.0% of sodium oxide Na20
3.0-5.0% of potassium oxide K20
0.5-2% of iron oxide Fe20 3
0.2-0 .7% of magnesium oxide MgO
0.5-1.5% of calcium oxide CaO
0.05-0.15% of titanium oxide Ti0 2
In the implementation of the present invention, the perlite undergoes a first milling step so as to
form perlite particles, and is dried and then calibrated. The product obtained, known as perlite
ore, is grey-coloured and has a size of about 100 m h. The perlite ore is then expanded
(1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches
850-900°C, the water trapped in the structure of the material evaporates and brings about the
expansion of the material relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles in
accordance with the invention may be obtained via the expansion process described in US Patent
No. 5,002,698.
Preferably, the perlite particles used are then milled in a second milling step in order to further
reduce the size of the perlite particles used; in this case, they are referred to as expanded milled
perlite (EMP), to form fine particles.
Preferably, the perlite has a platelet shape, and consequently is usually called a lamellar filler, as
opposed to a spherical filler which is of a globular shape.
The perlite advantageously has a coefficient of expansion of from 2 to 70.
Preferably, the perlite has an untamped density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m3 (standard
DIN 53468) and more preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m3.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the perlite has a silica content of
greater than or equal to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of the
material. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the perlite has a
spontaneous pH, measured at 25°C in a dispersion in water at 10% by weight, ranging from 6 to
8.
Preferably, the expanded perlite used in the present invention has a water-absorbing capacity,
measured at the wet point, ranging from 200% to 1500% and preferably from 250% to 800%.
The wet point corresponds to the amount of water that needs to be added to 1 g of particles in
order to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method is derived directly from that of the oil
uptake applied to solvents. The measurements are taken in the same manner by means of the
wet point and the flow point, which have, respectively, the following definitions:
Wet Point: weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product corresponding to the production of a
homogeneous paste during the addition of a solvent to a powder.
Flow Point: weight expressed in grams per 100 g of product at and above which the amount of
solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This is reflected by the
production of a more or less homogeneous mixture that flows over a glass plate.
The wet point and the flow point are measured according to the following protocol:
Protocol for measuring the water absorption
1) Equipment used
Glass plate (25 x 25 mm)
Spatula (wooden shaft and metal part, 15 x 2.7 mm)
Silk-bristled brush
Balance
2) Procedure
The glass plate is placed on the balance and 1 g of perlite is weighed out. A beaker containing a
solvent and a liquid sampling pipette is placed on the balance. The solvent is gradually added to
the powder while regularly mixing (every 3 to 4 drops) with the spatula.
The weight of solvent needed to obtain the wet point is noted. Further solvent is added and the
weight which makes it possible to reach the flow point is noted. The average over three tests is
determined.
The perlite used according to the invention is especially commercially available from the
company World Minerals under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040 or
OpTiMat™ 1430 OR or 2550 OR.
The perlite is present in a composition in accordance with the present invention in a content
ranging from 5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably
from 7% to 68% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably
from 10% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The perlite and the pulverulent phase may be present in the composition in a respective total
content such that the weight ratio of the perlite to the pulverulent phase ranges from 0.02 to 1,
preferably from 0.05 to 1, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 1.
• Inorganic UV Filter Powder
Inorganic UV filter powder is used for providing the powdery cosmetic composition according to
the present invention with UV protecting effects.
The inorganic UV filter powder is preferably present in a fine particle form in the composition.
More preferably, the inorganic UV filter powder is present in the form of primary particles in the
composition. The inorganic UV filter powder in the primary particle form is also present in a
free particle form. The term "free particle form" here means that the particle does not fuse
chemically or physically to other particles (e.g., not coat other particles).
The term "UV" here comprises the UVB region (260-320 nm in wavelength) and the UVA
region (320-400 nm in wavelength). Therefore, a UV filter means any material which has
filtering effects in the wavelength of UV, in particular the UVAand UVB regions.
The inorganic UV filter powder used for the present invention may be active in the UV-Aand/or
UV-B region, preferably in the UV-B region or in the UV-Aand UV-B region. The powdery
cosmetic composition according to the present invention can comprise a further additional UV
filter other than the inorganic UV filter powder. It is preferable that the active UV filtering
region of the inorganic UV filter powder and that of the additional UV filter are complementary
to each other, in order to provide comprehensive UV protection. For example, it is preferable
that the inorganic UV filter powder is active at least in the UV-B region and the additional UV
filter is active at least in the UV-Aregion. The inorganic UV filter powder may be hydrophilic
and/or lipophilic.
The inorganic UV filter powder may be in the form of a fine particle having an average primary
particle size of lower than 200 nm, preferably lower than 180 nm, and more preferably from 5
nm to 180 nm, and even more preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and still more preferably from 10
nm to 100 nm. The average primary particle size here means a number-average size mean
diameter which is given by the statistical particle size distribution to half of the population,
referred to as D50. For example, such a number-average size mean diameter of the inorganic
UV filter powder can be measured by SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) and/or TEM
(Transmission Electron Microscope). In these measurements with SEM and/or TEM, generally,
an equivalent circle diameter of each of measured particles is used as a diameter of each of the
particles, and at least 80 particles are measured for determining the number-average size mean
diameter. The equivalent circle diameter can be determined by image analysis using image
analysis software, such as "WinRoof" from Mitani Syoji.
The inorganic UV filter powder may be selected from metal oxides, such as titanium oxide
(amorphous or crystalline in the rutile and/or anatase form), zinc oxide, zirconium oxide or
cerium oxide, which are all well-known UV photoprotective agents. Preferably, the inorganic
UV filter powder is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and
cerium oxide.
The inorganic UV filter powder may or may not be coated. The inorganic UV filter powder
may have at least one coating. The coating may comprise at least one compound selected from
the group consisting of alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, silicones, silanes, fatty acids or
salts thereof (such as sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts), fatty alcohols, lecithin,
amino acids, polysaccharides, proteins, alkanolamines, waxes such as beeswax, (meth)acrylic
polymers, organic UV filters, and (per)fluoro compounds.
It is preferable for the coating to include at least one organic UV filter powder. As the organic
UV filter in the coating, a dibenzoylmethane derivative such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane
(Avobenzone) and
2,2'-Methylenebis[6-(2H-Benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l ,1,3,3 -Tetramethyl-Butyl)Phenol] (Methylene
Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol) marketed as "TINOSORB M" by BASF may be
preferable.
In a known manner, the silicones in the coating(s) may be organosilicon polymers or oligomers
comprising a linear or cyclic and branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight,
obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitable functional silanes and
essentially composed of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are connected to
one another via oxygen atoms (siloxane bond), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being
connected directly to the said silicon atoms via a carbon atom.
The term "silicones" also encompasses silanes necessary for their preparation, in particular
alkylsilanes.
The silicones used for the coating(s) can preferably be selected from the group consisting of
alkylsilanes, polydialkylsiloxanes and polyalkylhydrosiloxanes. More preferably, the silicones
are selected from the group consisting of octyltrimethylsilane, polydimethylsiloxanes and
polymethylhydrosiloxanes.
Of course, the inorganic UV filter powder made of metal oxides may have been treated with
other surfacing agents before treatment with silicones, in particular with cerium oxide, alumina,
silica, aluminum compounds, silicon compounds or their mixtures.
The coated inorganic UV filter powder may be prepared by subjecting the inorganic UV filter
powder to one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or
mechanical nature with any of the compounds as described above, as well as polyethylenes,
metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum alkoxides), metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate,
and those shown, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64.
The coated inorganic UV filter powder may be titanium oxides coated:
with silica, such as the product "Sunveil" from Ikeda;
with silica and with iron oxide, such as the product "Sunveil F" from Ikeda;
with silica and with alumina, such as the products "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SA" from
Tayca, "Tioveil" from Tioxide, and "Mirasun TiW 60" from Rhodia;
with alumina, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (B)", "Tipaque TTO-55 (A)" and
"MPT-141" (primary particle size: 95-125 nm) from Ishihara Sangyo, and "UVT 14/4" from
Kemira;
with alumina and with aluminum stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 T,
MT 100 TX, MT 100 Z or MT-0G from Tayca, the products "Solaveil CT-10W" and "Solaveil
CT 100" from Uniqema, and the product "Eusolex T-AVO"from Merck;
with alumina and with aluminum laurate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100
S" from Tayca;
with iron oxide and with iron stearate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 100 F"
from Tayca;
with zinc oxide and with zinc stearate, such as the product "BR351 " from Tayca;
with silica and with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products "Microtitanium
Dioxide MT 600 SAS", "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 500 SAS" and "Microtitanium Dioxide MT
100 SAS" from Tayca;
with silica, with alumina and with aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone, such as the
product "STT-30-DS" from Titan Kogyo;
with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product "UV-Titan X 195" from Kemira;
with alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products "Tipaque TTO-55 (S)" from
Ishihara Sangyo or "UV Titan M 262" from Kemira;
with triethanolamine, such as the product "STT-65-S" from Titan Kogyo;
with stearic acid, such as the product "Tipaque TTO-55 (C)" from Ishihara Sangyo;
with aluminum hydroxide and with stearic acid, such as the product "ST-455" and "ST-485SA15"
from Titan Kogyo;
with aluminum hydroxide and with silica, such as the product "ST-495M" from Titan Kogyo; or
with sodium hexametaphosphate, such as the product "Microtitanium Dioxide MT 150 W" from
Tayca.
Other titanium oxides treated with a silicone are preferably Ti0 2 treated with
octyltrimethylsilane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is from 25 and 40 nm,
such as that marketed under the trademark "T 805" by Degussa Silices, Ti0 treated with a
polydimethylsiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual particles is 2 1 nm, such as
that marketed under the trademark "70250 Cardre UF Ti0 2Si3" by Cardre, and anatase/rutile
Ti0 2 treated with a polydimethylhydrosiloxane and for which the mean size of the individual
particles is 25 nm, such as that marketed under the trademark "Microtitanium Dioxide USP
Grade Hydrophobic" by Color Techniques.
Preferably, the following coated Ti0 2 can be used as the coated inorganic UV filter powder:
Alumina (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "MPT-141" from Ishihara Sangyo, with a primary
particle size of from 95 to 125 nm;
Stearic acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "MT-100 TV" from
Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Ti0 2, such as the product
"SA-TTO-S4" from Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Silica (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "MT-100 WP" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle
diameter of 15 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "MT-Y02"
and "MT-Y-110 M3S" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 10 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "SA-TTO-S3" from
Miyoshi Kasei, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm;
Dimethicone (and) Alumina (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "UV TITANMl 70" from
Sachtleben, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm; and
Silica (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Alginic Acid (and) Ti0 2, such as the product "MT-100
AQ" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm.
In terms of UV filtering ability, Ti0 2 coated with at least one organic UV filter is more preferable.
For example, Avobenzone (and) Stearic Acid (and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Ti0 2, such as the
product "HXMT-100ZA" from Tayca, with a mean primary particle diameter of 15 nm, can be
used.
The uncoated titanium oxides are, for example, marketed by Tayca under the trademarks
"Microtitanium Dioxide MT500B" or "Microtitanium Dioxide MT600B", by Degussa under the
trademark "P 25", by Wacker under the trademark "Oxyde de titane transparent PW", by Miyoshi
Kasei under the trademark "UFTR", by Tomen under the trademark "ITS" and by Tioxide under
the trademark "Tioveil AQ".
The uncoated zinc oxides are, for example:
those marketed under the trademark "Z-cote" by Sunsmart;
those marketed under the trademark "Nanox" by Elementis; and
those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard WCD 2025" by Nanophase Technologies.
The coated zinc oxides are, for example:
those marketed under the trademark "Oxide Zinc CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with
polymethylhydrosiloxane);
those marketed under the trademark "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as
a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C 2-C15 alkyl benzoate);
those marketed under the trademark "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito
(dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane/cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30%
or 50% of zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane);
those marketed under the trademark "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with
phosphate of perfluoroalkyl and a copolymer based on perfluoroalkylethyl as a dispersion in
cyclopentasiloxane);
those marketed under the trademark "SPD-Zl" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted
acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);
those marketed under the trademark "Escalol Z100" by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in an
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate/PVP-hexadecene copolymer/methicone mixture); and
those marketed under the trademark "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with
silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); those marketed under the trademark "Nanox Gel TN" by
Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12 -C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid
polycondensate).
The uncoated cerium oxide is marketed, for example, under the trademark "Colloidal Cerium
Oxide" by Rhone-Poulenc.
Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, in particular of titanium dioxide and of
cerium dioxide, including a mixture of equal weights of titanium dioxide coated with silica and
of cerium dioxide coated with silica marketed by Ikeda under the trademark "Sunveil A", and
also a mixture of titanium dioxide and of zinc dioxide coated with alumina, with silica and with
silicone, such as the product "M 261 " marketed by Kemira, or coated with alumina, with silica
and with glycerol, such as the product "M 211" marketed by Kemira.
The UV filter powder can generally be present in the composition according to the present
invention in proportions ranging from 3% to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 30%
by weught, and more preferably 10% to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the
composition.
The UV protecting effects by the inorganic UV filter powder can be estimated by measuring the
UV-ray transmittance thereof. Generally, such UV-ray transmittance can be measured with a
UV/Vis spectrometer.
• Additional Filler(s)
The pulverulent phase according to the present invention may preferably comprise at least one
additional filler.
The term "fillers" should be understood as meaning colorless or white solid particles of any form,
which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the powdery cosmetic
composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they make it possible to impart the powdery
cosmetic powdery cosmetic composition with softness, mattness and uniformity of makeup.
The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be non-spherical
fillers, in particular lamellar fillers, or spherical fillers (globular fillers). The fillers may also
include fiber(s). The fillers according to the present invention may or may not be
surface-coated.
Non-spherical fillers
The "non-spherical" filler may be of any form other than spherical, for example, platelet-shaped,
and oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal,
and orthorhombic). Non-spherical fillers are preferably selected from non-spherical mineral
fillers. Among the non-spherical mineral fillers that may be used in the powdery cosmetic
compositions according to the present invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica,
magnesium aluminium silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate,
magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorphlogopite, sericite,
calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, lauroyl lysine, metal soap,
bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, and mixtures thereof.
According to the present invention, the non-spherical filler may have been surface-treated with a
surface treatment agent comprising at least one silicone oil.
The silicone oil may be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxane,
polyalkylaryldiloxanes such as polymethylphenylsiloxane, polydiarylsiloxanes such as
polydiphenylsiloxanes, polyalkylhydrogensiloxanes such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and
modified-polysiloxanes.
The modified-polysiloxanes may be chosen from the following formulae:
- (a1) modified pol siloxanes bearin polyethers, chosen from compounds of formula (III):
wherein
- R comprises -(CH 2)h-;
- R4 comprises -(CH 2)j- CH3;
- R is chosen from -OH, -COOH, -CH=CH2, -C(CH3)=CH and -(CH )j- CH3;
- R6 comprises -(CH 2) -CH ;
- g and h independently range from 1 to 15;
- j and k independently range from 0 to 15;
- e ranges from 1 to 50; and
- f ranges from 1 to 300;
- (a2) modified polysiloxanes bearing polyesters, chosen from compounds of formula (IV):
wherein
- R7, R8 and R9 are independently chosen from -(CH )q-;
- R10 is chosen from - OH,-COOH, -CH=CH2, -C(CH )=CH2 and -(CH 2)r- CH3;
- R11 comprises -(CH )S- CH3 ;
- n and q independently range from 1 to 15;
- r and s independently range from 0 to 5;
- e ranges from 1 to 50; and
- f ranges from 1 to 300;
(a3) modified polysiloxanes bearing epoxy radicals, chosen from compounds of formula (V):
wherein
- R12 comprises -(CH )V-;
- v ranges from 1 to 15;
- ranges from 1 to 50; and
- u ranges from 1 to 300;
and
- mixtures thereof.
Alternatively, the modified-polysiloxane may be chosen from compounds of formula (VI):
wherein
- Ri 3 and R are independently chosen from -OH, R OH and R COOH;
- R15 is chosen from -CH 3 and - C H5;
- R16 and R 7 comprise -(CH 2)y-;
- y ranges from 1 to 15;
- w ranges from 1 to 200; and
- x ranges from 0 to 100.
It is preferable that the silicone oil is a polydialkylsiloxane such as polydimethylsiloxane or a
mixture of polydialkylsiloxanes.
The surface treatment agent for the non-spherical filler may comprise at least one
dimethylpolysiloxane.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, the surface treatment of the
non-spherical filler may be chosen from the following treatments:
PEG-silicone treatments, for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
methicone treatments, for instance the SI surface treatment sold by LCW; and
dimethicone treatments, for instance the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment sold by LCW, or the SA
surface treatments sold by Miyoshi Kasei, and in particular the product SA-TA-13R sold by
MIYOSHI KASEI (INCI Name Talc and dimethicone).
In a preferred embodiment, a dimethicone-treated talc can be used as the non-spherical filler.
According to the present invention, the non-spherical filler may have been surface-treated with a
surface treatment agent comprising at least one amino acid and/or a derivative thereof.
The amino acid may preferably be selected from the group consisting of proline, hydroxyproline,
alanine, glycine, sarcosine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid.
The amino acids may be L-isomers or a mixture of L-isomers and D-isomers.
It is preferable that the non-spherical filler has been coated with:
(a) at least one selected from proline, hydroxyproline and derivatives thereof; and/or
(b) at least one selected from alanine, glycine, sarcosine and derivatives thereof; and/or
(c) at least one selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid and derivatives thereof.
The derivatives of the amino acids may be selected from salts of the amino acids, and N-acylated
amino acids and salts thereof.
It is preferable that two of the components (a) to (c) be used together, and it is more preferable
that all of the components (a) to (c) be used together. If two or more of the components (a) to
(c) are used, the type of the derivatives and/or salts may be the same or different.
The N-acyl group of the N-acylated amino acid may be a linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated acyl group with C8-C22 carbon atoms, preferably C12 -C1 carbon atoms. It is
preferable that the N-acyl group is a linear saturated acyl group, such as a palmitoyl group.
The salt of the amino acid or the N-acylated amino acid is not limited but may be in the form of a
metal salt with a metal element such as Na, K, Ba, Zn, Ca, Mg, Fe, Zr, Co, Al, Ti and the like; an
onium salt such as an ammonium salt; and a salt with an organic alkanolamine such as
monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol,
2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol, and triisopropanolamine. It is preferable that the salt is a
metal salt with Na, , Ca, Mg or Al.
It is more preferable that the non-spherical filler has been coated with a mixture (referred to as
"lipo-amino acid composition") of at least one fatty acid, such as a C12-C fatty acid, and/or a
salt of the fatty acid, and
(a) at least one selected from proline, hydroxyproline and derivatives thereof; and/or
(b) at least one selected from alanine, glycine, sarcosine and derivatives thereof; and/or
(c) at least one selected from aspartic acid, glutamic acid and derivatives thereof.
As the fatty acid, a linear, branched or cyclic fatty acid, preferably C12 -C1 , can be used. A
plurality of fatty acids may be used. As examples of the fatty acid, mention may be made of
lauric acid, myristic acid, isomyristic acid, palmitic acid, isopalmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic
acid, oleic acid, myristoleic acid, elaidic acid, linoleic acid, and linolenic acid. As examples of
the salt of the fatty acid, mention may be made of a metal salt with a metal element such as Na,
K, Ba, Zn, Ca, Mg, Fe, Zr, Co, Al, Ti or the like. Lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and
stearic acid as well as a metal salt thereof with Na, K, Ca, Al or Mg are preferable. Lauric acid,
myristic acid and palmitic acid are more preferable. Palmitic acid is most preferable.
In the lipo-amino acid composition, each of the fatty acid (or a salt thereof) and any of the
components (a) to (c) may represent 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more,
and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the lipo-amino acid
composition.
It is most preferable that the lipo-amino acid composition comprises all of the components (a) to
(c) as well as at least one fatty acid, such as a C12-C18 fatty acid, and/or a salt of the fatty acid.
For example, a mixture of palmitic acid, palmitoyl proline, palmitoyl sarcosinate, and palmitoyl
glutamate can be used as the lipo-amino acid composition. A mixture of palmitic acid,
palmitoyl proline, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, and magnesium palmitoyl glutamate is more
preferable.
In the lipo-amino acid composition comprising all of the components (a) to (c), each of the fatty
acid (or a salt thereof) and any of the components (a) to (c) may represent 0.5% by weight or
more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to
the total weight of the lipo-amino acid composition. It is possible that the lipo-amino acid
composition comprises 5-50% by weight of the component (a), 5-50% by weight of the
component (b), 5-25% by weight of the component (c) and 5-50% by weight of the fatty acid (or
a salt thereof), relative to the total weight of the lipo-amino acid composition.
The lipo-amino acid composition can be prepared by a known method. For example, it is
possible to prepare the lipo-amino acid composition in accordance with the methods described in
WO 98/0961 1, WO 99/04757, JP-A-2000-191426 and the like. The above lipo-amino acid
composition is also marketed in the name of Sepifeel One sold by Seppic in France.
The surface-treated non-spherical filler can be prepared by coating the filler with any of the
components (a) to (c), a mixture of two or more of the components (a) to (c), or the lipo-amino
acid composition described above.
The coating can be performed by a known method. For example, the non-spherical filler can be
added into a solution of any of the components (a) to (c), a mixture of two or more of the
components (a) to (c), or the lipo-amino acid composition described above; the filler is dispersed
in the solution; and the dispersion is filtered, washed and dried. The solvent of the solution
may be selected from water, aqueous solvents such as methanol and ethanol, and non-aqueous
solvents such as ethyl acetate, depending on the nature of the components (a) to (c) and the like.
The amount of the coating depends on the type of the filler, and can be 0.1 to 30% by weight,
preferably 1.0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the filler.
The filler may preferably be pre-coated with at least one oxide or hydroxide of a metal element
such as aluminum, calcium, magnesium, cerium, silicon, zirconium, titanium, zinc, iron, cobalt,
manganese, nickel, and tin. Aluminum hydroxide is more preferable. Further, the filler may
preferably be pre-coated with a silicone compound, a fatty acid, a metal soap, a fluorine-based
compound, a silane-coupling agent, and the like.
In one embodiment, the non-spherical filler coated with the lipo-amino acid composition
comprising at least one fatty acid, such as a C12-C1 fatty acid, and/or a salt of the fatty acid, and
the components (a) to (c) is/are commercially available.
For example, mica coated with palmitoyl proline, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium
palmitoyl glutamate or palmitic acid has been marketed by Miyoshi Kasei Inc. in Japan.
In another embodiment, non-spherical fillers which have been surface-treated as follows are
commercially available:
- a PEG-silicone treatment, for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a lauroyllysine treatment, for instance the LL surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a lauroyllysine dimethicone treatment, for instance the LL/SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a disodium stearoyl glutamate treatment, for instance the NAI surface treatment sold by
Miyoshi;
- a dimethicone/disodium stearoyl glutamate treatment, for instance the SA AI surface
treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a microcrystalline cellulose and carboxymethylcellulose treatment, for instance the AC surface
treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer treatment, for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine treatment, for instance the ASL treatment sold by Daito;
and
- a sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine/isopropyl titanium triisostearate treatment, for instance
the ASL treatment sold by Daito.
Spherical fillers
Among spherical fillers that may be used, mention may be made of spherical mineral fillers and
spherical organic fillers. By "spherical fillers," one must understand the fillers or particles
comprising at least one generally rounded portion, preferably defining at least a portion of a
sphere, possibly internally defining a concavity or depression.
(Spherical mineral fillers)
Among spherical mineral fillers that may be used, mention may be made of silica microspheres,
for example, of open porosity, such as hollow silica microspheres, including the products "Silica
Beads SP 700/HA(R)" and "Silica Beads SB 700(R)" from Maprecos, glass or ceramic
microcapsules, silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200 or Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33 and
Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; and composites of
silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.
(Spherical organic fillers)
Among spherical organic fillers that may be used, mention may be made of (meth)acrylic or
(meth)acrylate powders, for example, polymethylmethacrylate powders; polyacrylonitrile
powders; organopolysiloxane powders, polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem),
poly- -alanine powders and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®),
lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, for
example comprising an (alkyl)acrylate, such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps
derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from
12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc
laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin
microbeads (for example Tospearl® from Toshiba), polyurethane powders, in particular powders
of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising trimethylol
hexyl lactone, for instance the hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer
sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki,
carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 350® by the
company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name
MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of
carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the name of Micro Care 300® and
310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and
of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company
Micro Powders, and polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly
200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders.
The polymethylmethacrylate powder may be in the form of hollow or solid white spherical
particles generally with a number-average size of micrometer order, for example, ranging from 3
to 15 microns and, further, for example, ranging from 3 to 10 microns. As used herein, the
expression "number-average size" means the size given by the statistical particle size distribution
to half of the population, referred to as D50.
It is also possible to characterize the polymethylmethacrylate particles by their density, which
can vary, for example, as a function of the size of the spherical cavity of the particles.
For example, the density of the polymethylmethacrylate powder that may be used in the
embodiments disclosed herein may range, for example, from 0.3 to 1.5, further, for example,
from 0.5 to 1.5 and, even further, for example, from 1 to 1.5.
As non-limiting illustrations of the polymethylmethacrylate powder that is suitable for use in the
composition disclosed herein, mention may be made, for example, of the
polymethylmethacrylate particles sold by the company Matsumoto Yushi Co. under the name
"Micropearl M100", by the company LCW under the name "Covabead LH 85" and those sold by
the company Nihon Junyaku under the name "Jurymer MB1 ".
The polyacrylonitrile powder may be chosen from acrylonitrile homopolymer powders and
acrylonitrile copolymer powders, and, for example, expanded hollow particles of acrylonitrile
homopolymer or copolymer. For example, the powders may be made of any expanded
acrylonitrile homopolymer or copolymer that is non-toxic and a non-irritant to the skin.
It is possible to use, for example, a copolymer comprising: from 0% to 60% of units derived
from vinylidene chloride, from 20% to 90% of units derived from acrylonitrile and from 0% to
50% of units derived from an acrylic or styrene monomer, wherein the sum of the percentages
(by weight) is equal to 100. The acrylic monomer may, for example, be a methyl or ethyl
acrylate or methacrylate. The styrene monomer may, for example, be a-methylstyrene or
styrene.
In one embodiment, the powders used in the composition disclosed herein are chosen from
hollow particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile or of
vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate. These powders may be dry or
hydrated.
The powders may be obtained, for example, according to the processes disclosed in Patent and
Patent Application Nos. EP 56219, EP 348372, EP 486080, EP 320473, EP 112807 and U.S.
Patent No. 3,615,972.
The internal cavity of the powder particles in principle comprises at least one gas, which may be
chosen from air, nitrogen, and hydrocarbons, such as isobutane and isopentane.
The powder particles may be chosen, for example, from expanded terpolymer micro-spheres of
vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate, sold under the brand name Expancel by
the company Expancel under the references 551 DE 50 (particle size of 40 m h), 551 DE 20
(particle size of 30 m and mass per unit volume of 65 kg/m3), 551 DE 12 (particle size of 12
m h), 551 DE 80 (particle size of 80 m ) and 461 DE 50 (particle size of 50 mih) . It is also
possible to use microspheres formed from the same expanded terpolymer having a particle size
of 8 mh and a mass per unit volume of 70 kg/m3, referred to hereinbelow as EL 23, or having a
particle size of 34 mh and a mass per unit volume of 20 kg/m3, referred to hereinbelow as EL 43.
The polyurethane powder may be a powder of a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and
trimethylol hexyl lactone. Such a polyurethane powder is sold, for example, under the names
"Plastic Powder D-400" and "Plastic Powder D-800" by the company Toshiki. Other
polyurethane powders that may be used include the product sold under the name "Plastic Powder
CS-400" by the company Toshiki.
The polyamide powders useful in the invention may be those listed under the CTFAname of
"Nylon 12" or "Nylon 6". A mixture of particles and, for example, a mixture of Nylon-6 and
Nylon- 12 may be used.
The polyamide powder particles used in the invention include those sold under the names
"Orgasol" by the company Atochem. The process for obtaining these particles is, for example,
the process described in Patent Application Publication No. FR-A-2 619 385 or No.EP-A-303
530. These polyamide powder particles are moreover known according to their various
physicochemical properties under the name "polyamide 12" or "polyamide 6".
The polyamide powder particles useful in the present invention may also include those sold
under the name SP500 by the company TORAY.
The organopolysiloxane may be elastomeric or non-elastomeric. It is preferable to use
elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder or organopolysiloxane elastomer powder.
The elastomeric organopolysiloxane may, for example, be crosslinked and may be obtained
via a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrogen
linked to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated
group linked to silicon, preferably, in the presence of, for example, a platinum catalyst; or
via a dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane
comprising at least one hydroxyl end group and a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one
hydrogen linked to silicon, preferably, in the presence of, for example, an organotin compound;
or
via a crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least one
hydroxyl end group and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or
via thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, preferably, in the presence of, for example, an
organoperoxide catalyst; or
via crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet
rays or an electron beam.
In one embodiment, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder is crosslinked and is obtained
via a crosslinking addition reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane (B2) comprising at least two
hydrogens, each linked to a silicon, and of a diorganopolysiloxane (A2) comprising at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups linked to silicon, preferably, in the presence of, for example, a
platinum catalyst (C2), for instance as described in Patent Application Publication No.
EP-A-295886.
For example, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained via a reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane
comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane comprising
trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the
crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the
presence of the catalyst (C2).
Compound (A2) may, for example, be a diorganopolysiloxane comprising at least two lower
alkenyl groups (for example C2-C4); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl
and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position of the
organopolysiloxane molecule, but in one embodiment are located at the ends of the
organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched-chain,
linear-chain, cyclic or network structure; in one embodiment, the linear-chain structure may be
used. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.
For example, compound (A2) may have a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from methylvinylsiloxanes,
methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers comprising
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane
copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethyl-siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane
copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy end groups,
dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers comprising
trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxane comprising
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane
copolymers comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (B2) may, for example, be an organopolysiloxane comprising at least two hydrogens
linked to silicon in each molecule and is thus the crosslinking agent for the compound (A2).
In one embodiment, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (A2)
and the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon per molecule of compound (B2) is at least 4.
Compound (B2) may be of any molecular structure. In one embodiment, compound (B2) is of
linear-chain or branched-chain structure or cyclic structure.
Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, for example,
in order to have good miscibility with compound (A2).
In one embodiment, compound (B2) may be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio
between the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon in compound (B2) and the total
amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is within the range from
1:1 to 20:1.
Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes comprising trimethylsiloxy
end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers comprising trimethylsiloxy
end groups, and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.
Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and may, for example, be chosen from
chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane
complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on a support.
The catalyst (C2) may, for example, be added in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 1000 parts by
weight and, further, for example, from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per
1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
Other organic groups may be linked to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2)
described previously, for example, alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl;
substituted alkyl groups, such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-tri-fiuoropropyl; aryl
groups, such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups, such as phenylethyl; and
substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups, such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester
group or a mercapto group.
In some embodiments, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may, for example, be chosen
from non-emulsifying elastomers. As used herein, the term "non-emulsifying" means
organopolysiloxane elastomers not comprising a hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or
polyglycerolated units.
Spherical elastomeric organopolysiloxanes are, for example, described in Patent Application
Publication Nos. JP-A-S61-194009, EP-A-242 219, EP-A-295 886 and EP-A-765 656, the
contents of which are incorporated by reference.
Elastomer organopolysiloxane powders that may be used include those sold under the names
"Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning.
These powders have the INCI name: dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
The elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder may, for example, be chosen from elastomeric
organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, for example, with silsesquioxane resin,
as described, for example, in U.S. Patent No. 5,538,793, the content of which is incorporated by
reference. Such elastomeric powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101",
"KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104" and "KSP-105" by the company Shin-Etsu, and have the
INCI name: vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
Other elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical powders may be powders of
hybrid silicone functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, sold, for example, under the name
"KSP-200" by the company Shin-Etsu and powders of hybrid silicones functionalized with
phenyl groups, sold, for example, under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin-Etsu.
Fibers
Among fibers that may be used, mention may be made of fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral
or organic origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and
hollow or solid. They may have any shape and may especially have a circular or polygonal
(square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the specific application envisaged.
In particular, their ends are blunted and/or polished to prevent injury. The fibers have a length
ranging from 1 mhi to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and more preferably from 0.3
mm to 3 mm. Their cross section may include in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to
500 mh , preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 m and more preferably from 1 m to 50 m h.
As fibers that can be used in the powdery cosmetic compositions according to the present
invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibers or rigid
fibers such as polyimideamide fibers, for instance those sold under the names Kermel® and
Kermel Tech® by the company Rhodia or poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibers
sold especially under the name Kevlar® by the company DuPont de Nemours, and mixtures
thereof.
The additional filler(s) may be present in the composition in a content of greater than or equal to
5% by weight relative to the weight of composition, for example ranging from 1% to 80% by
weight, preferably from 3% to 75% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 70% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
• Coloring agent(s)
The pulverulent phase according to the present invention may comprise at least one coloring
agent.
The term "coloring agents" should be understood as encompassing pigments, nacres, and
reflective particles, and mixtures thereof. The coloring agent may be represented as dyestuff.
Pigments
The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic
particles of any shape, which are insoluble in a physiological medium, and which are intended to
color the composition. The pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, such as pigmentary
titanium dioxide rutile type, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and
also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet,
ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminium
powder and copper powder.
The organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
- cochineal carmine,
- organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes,
pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluorane dyes.
Among the organic pigments, mention may be made especially of the D&C certified pigments
known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5,
D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange
No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No.
22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33,
D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8,
D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red
No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, and FD&C Yellow No. 6.
The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned previously are
mentioned in the publication "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook",
1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and
Fragrance Association, the content of which is incorporated into the present patent application by
reference.
Nacres
The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or
may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively
synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica
coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with
chromium oxide, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be
mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal
oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs. The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red,
bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced into the composition, mention may be made of
the gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold
212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and
Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under
the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company
Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the
company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica)
and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)
(Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name
Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a
copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the
nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386)
(Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the
name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company
Engelhard under the name Sunstone GO12 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the
company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint
sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica),
the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433)
(Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the
name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company
Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.
As further examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate
substrate coated with titanium oxide.
Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are especially sold under the name
Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate flakes,
especially those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver IP
0.004X0.004 (silver flakes).
Reflective particles
The term "reflective particles" denotes particles whose size, structure, especially the thickness of
the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state,
allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity
sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the
support to be made up, points of overbrightness that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more
luminous points that contrast with their environment by appearing to sparkle.
The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloration effect
generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to
optimize this effect in terms of color yield. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink,
red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
These particles may have varied forms and may especially be in platelet or globular form, in
particular in spherical form.
The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in
the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness,
in particular of a reflective material.
When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for
example, of metal oxides, especially titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may comprise, for example, a
natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least
one layer of a reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallic material. The
substrate may be made of one or more organic and/or inorganic materials.
More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas,
silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures
thereof, this list not being limiting.
The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
Again as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of
metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.
Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name
Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate
coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF 550
and GF 2525 by this same company.
Use may also be made of particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminium,
iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or
titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as
titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide or silicon oxides,
and mixtures thereof.
Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder
coated with Si0 2 sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
The colouring agent(s) may preferably be present in the composition in a content of greater than
or equal to 1% by weight relative to the weight of composition, for example ranging from 0% to
30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 15%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(II) Liquid Phase
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one
liquid phase. This liquid phase may advantageously serve as binder for the said pulverulent
phase. The liquid phase preferably comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil
and/or silicone oil, more preferably at least one non-volatile silicone oil, and still more
preferably a combination of non-volatile silicone oils.
The term "liquid" refers to a composition that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and
atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibers at room
temperature and pressure. More precisely, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less
than 0.01 mg/cm /min.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention advantageously has a
content of liquid phase, and in particular of non-volatile oil(s), and more particularly of
non-volatile silicone oil(s), of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, more
preferably from 1.5% to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 2% to 8% by weight in
relation to the total weight of the powdery cosmetic composition.
Hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oil
A liquid phase may comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil. A composition
according to the present invention may comprise one or more non-volatile hydrocarbon-based
oils.
Non- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate,
phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate; triglycerides formed
from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging
from CI8 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated;
these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil,
pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter
oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil,
borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed
oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia
oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St-John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil,
walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grape
seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower
oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid
triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the
names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Rl represents at least one
linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a
hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms,
with the proviso that Rl + R2 is greater than or equal to 10; these esters may be chosen
especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol
esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters,
for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and
especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates,
for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl
4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate,
propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid
esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate,
octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate,
isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate
and diisostearyl malate;
- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl
tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;
- esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers;
- copolymers of diol dimer and of diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol
dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers, and esters thereof;
- copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof;
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated
carbon-based chain containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol,
isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
- C 2 -C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures
thereof;
- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl
carbonate;
- oils with a molar mass of between about 400 and about 10,000 g/mol, in particular about 650 to
about 10,000 g/mol, more particularly from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and even more
particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol; mention may be made especially of,
alone or as a mixture, (i) lipophilic polymers such as polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, for
example hydrogenated, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, vinylpyrrolidone
copolymers, such as the vinylpyrrolidone/l-hexadecene copolymer, and polyvinylpyrrolidone
(PVP) copolymers, such as the copolymers of a C2 -C3 0 alkene, such as C3-C22, and combinations
thereof; (ii) linear fatty acid esters containing a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for
instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; (iii) hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2
triisostearate; (iv) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate; (v) esters of fatty alcohols or of
branched C 24-C28 fatty acids, such as those described in US Patent No. 6,491,927 and
pentaerythritol esters, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate,
glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl 2-tridecyltetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,
poly(2-glyceryl) tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl 2-tetradecyltetradecanoate; and (vi) diol dimer
esters and polyesters, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid, and esters of diol dimer and
of diacid.
Non-volatile silicone oils
According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the liquid phase may comprise
at least one non-volatile silicone oil. The non-volatile silicone oil that may be used in the
present invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or
equal to 2 centistokes (cSt) (2 x 10 6m2/s) and less than 800,000 cSt, preferably between 3 and
600,000 cSt and preferably between 4 and 500,000 cSt. The viscosity of this silicone may be
measured according to standard ASTM D-445.
Among these silicone oils, two types of oil may be distinguished, according to whether or not
they contain phenyl.
Representative examples of these non-volatile linear silicone oils that may be mentioned include
polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyl dimethicones; vinyl methyl methicones; and also silicones
modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl,
thiol and/or amine groups.
Thus, non-phenyl non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include:
- PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone
chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,
- PDMSs comprising aliphatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine
groups,
- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with a fluorinated group, such as
polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes,
- polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or
amine groups,
- polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures
thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, the powdery cosmetic composition according to the
present invention contains at least one non-phenyl linear silicone oil. The non-phenyl linear
silicone oil may be chosen especially from the silicones of formula:
in which:
- Ri, R2, R5 and R are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- R3 and R are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a
vinyl radical, an amine radical or a hydroxyl radical,
- X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or an amine
radical,
- n and p are integers chosen so as to have a fluid compound.
As non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made
of those in which:
- the substituents to R and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity
is 500,000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name SE30 by the company General Electric,
the product sold under the name AK 500000 by the company Wacker, the product sold under the
name Mirasil DM 500,000 by the company Bluestar, and the product sold under the name Dow
Corning 200 Fluid 500,000 cSt by the company Dow Corning,
- the substituents R to R and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity
is 60,000 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 60000 CS by the
company Dow Corning, and the product sold under the name Wacker Belsil DM 60,000 by the
company Wacker,
- the substituents Ri to R and X represent a methyl group, and p and n are such that the viscosity
is 350 cSt, such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 CS by the
company Dow Corning,
- the substituents to R represent a methyl group, the group X represents a hydroxyl group,
and n and p are such that the viscosity is 700 cSt, such as the product sold under the name
Baysilone Fluid TO.7 by the company Momentive.
According to one preferred embodiment variant, a composition according to the invention
contains at least one phenyl silicone oil.
Representative examples of these non-volatile phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned
include:
- The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:
,
- The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:
R R
R Si- -Si- Si-
(II)
in which in formula (II) the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a
phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this
formula, the said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least
four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be
used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl
organopolysiloxanes .
- The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:
Ph Ph Ph
/ / /
S i 0 -Si 0 ——Si-
\ \ Ph Me Ph
in which in formula (III) Me represents methyl, and Ph represents phenyl. Such a phenyl silicone
is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning
555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: l,3,5-trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI
name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may
also be used.
- The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula:
in which in formula (IV) Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents
-CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph).
- The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below:
in which in formula (V) Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group -OSiMe3 and y is
0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000, such that compound (V) is a
non-volatile oil.
According to a first embodiment, y ranges between 1 and 1000. Use may be made, for example,
of trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, especially under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 sold by
the company Wacker.
According to a second embodiment, y is equal to 0. Use may be made, for example, of phenyl
trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic
Grade Fluid.
The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
(VI)
in which in formula (VI):
- Ri to R10, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
Ci-C3o hydrocarbon-based radicals,
- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso
that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1
and 900 and more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.
- The phenyl sil
(VII)
in which in formula (VII):
- to ¾ , independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched
C - ohydrocarbon-based radicals,
- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that
the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, R1 to , independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C!-C3o
and especially -C hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or
butyl radical.
to R may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
Preferably, m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1 may apply, in formula (VII).
- The phenyl silicone oils of:
(VIII)
in which in formula (VIII):
- R is a C -C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, preferably R is CH3,
- n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and
- m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.
In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R to R10 defined previously may each
represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially of C2-C20, in
particular C3-C and more particularly C4-C10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C14 and
especially C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl residues are as defined
previously.
Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and Ri to R10 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl,
isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or
phenethyl radical.
According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of
between 5 and 1500 mm /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt), and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and
1000 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
As phenyl silicone oils of formula (VIII), it is especially possible to use phenyl trimethicones
such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhone-Poulenc
(28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000 (1000 cSt),
Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses
represent the viscosities at 25°C.
- The phenyl silicone oils corresponding to the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
(IX)
in which in formula (IX):
- i, R2, R5 and R are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- R and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an
aryl radical,
- X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,
- n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than
200,000 g/mol, preferably less than 150,000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g/mol.
The phenyl silicones that are most particularly suitable for use in the invention are those
corresponding to formulae (II) and especially to formulae (III), (V) and (VIII) above.
More particularly, the phenyl silicones are chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl
dimethicones, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, phenyl-trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil according
to the invention ranges from 500 to 10,000 g/mol.
It should be noted that, among the silicone compounds according to the invention, phenyl
silicone oils prove to be particularly advantageous.
Volatile oi
The liquid phase may optionally comprise at least one volatile oil. The term "volatile oil"
means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than
one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile
oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation
rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
To measure this evaporation rate, 1 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a
crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3
m that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25°C, and hygrometry-regulated, at a
relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while
providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm)
placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the
blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the
crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular
intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2)
and per unit of time (minutes).
This volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil or fluoro oil. It is preferably a
hydrocarbon-based oil.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially
containing Si-0 groups. According to one embodiment, the composition comprises less than
10% by weight of non-volatile silicone oil(s), in relation to the total weight of the powdery
cosmetic composition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free of silicone oil.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example
in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon
atoms, and especially C -C1 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), for instance
isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkane containing from 7 to 17
carbon atoms, in particular from 9^to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13
carbon atoms. Mention may be made especially of n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane,
n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the liquid phase is free of volatile oil. Such an absence of volatile oil makes it
possible, where appropriate, to dispense with a perfectly leaktight conditioning assembly for the
composition.
The liquid phase preferably comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil, preferably at least
one phenylated silicone oil and at least one non-phenylated silicone oil.
Liquid UV Filter
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention can comprise a further
additional organic liquid UV filter other than the inorganic UV filter powder. If an organic
liquid UV filter(s) is/are used in the liquid phase as the additional UV filter(s), the organic liquid
UV filter(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic derivatives;
dibenzoylmethane derivatives; liquid cinnamic derivatives; salicylic derivatives; camphor
derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; b,b-diphenylacrylate derivatives; liquid triazine
derivatives; liquid benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; benzimidazole
derivatives; imidazoline derivatives; bis-benzoazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)
and derivatives thereof; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives; benzoxazole
derivatives; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene;
4,4-diarylbutadienes; octocrylene and derivatives thereof, guaiazulene and derivatives thereof,
rutin and derivatives thereof, flavonoids, biflavonoids, oryzanol and derivatives thereof, quinic
acid and derivatives thereof, phenols, retinol, cysteine, aromatic amino acids, peptides having an
aromatic amino acid residue, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may be made, as examples of the organic liquid UV filter(s), of those denoted below
under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof.
Anthranilic derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan
MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.
Dibenzoylmethane derivatives: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under
the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
Liquid cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the
trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy
methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E
1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA
methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate
dimethoxycinnamate.
Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), marketed under the trademark
"Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, marketed under the trademark
"Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol salicylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl
salicylate; dipropyleneglycol salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and
TEA salicylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.
Camphor derivatives, in particular, benzylidenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor,
manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor,
marketed under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid,
manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium
methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene
dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and
polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW"
by Chimex.
Benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the
trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed
under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3
(2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul
M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed
under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy
benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed
under the trademark "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, marketed under the trademark
"Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy
dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF;
benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate.
b,b-diphenylacrylate derivatives: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark
"Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul
N35" by BASF.
Liquid triazine derivatives: diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark
"Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine; and
the symmetrical triazine screening agents described in U.S. Patent No. 6,225,467, WO
2004/085412 (see Compounds 6 and 9) or the document "Symmetrical Triazine Derivatives",
IP.COM Journal, IP.COM INC, WEST HENRIETTA, NY,US (20 Sep. 2004), in particular
2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)-l,3,5-triazines (especially 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-l,3,5-triazine) and
2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine, which are taken up again in WO 06/035000, WO 06/034982,
WO 06/034991, WO 06/035007, WO 2006/034992 and WO 2006/034985.
Liquid benzotriazole derivatives, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives:
2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in
US Patent No. 5,240,975.
Benzalmalonate derivatives: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane
comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the
trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche.
Benzimidazole derivatives, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole
sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium
phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan AP" by
Haarmann and Reimer.
Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate.
Bis-benzoazolyl derivatives: The derivatives as described in Patent Application Publication No.
EP-669,323 and U.S. Patent No. 2,463,264.
Para-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives thereof: PABA(p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA,
Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in
particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA,
marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
Methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives: Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl
tetramethylbutylphenol, marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" by
Fairmount Chemical or in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark
"Tinosorb M" by Ciba Specialty Chemicals, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Patent Nos.
5,237,071 and 5,166,355, and Patent Application Publication GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and
EP-893,119.
Benzoxazole derivatives:
2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazi
ne, marketed under the trademark of Uvasorb K2Aby Sigma 3V.
Screening polymers and screening silicones: The silicones described in WO 93/04665.
Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE- 19855649.
4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives: 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
Octocrylene and derivatives thereof: Octocrylene.
Quaiazulene and derivatives thereof: Guaiazulene and sodium guaiazulene sulfonate.
Rutin and derivatives thereof: Rutin and glucosylrutin.
Flavonoids: Robustin (isoflavonoid), genistein (flavonoid), tectochrysin (flavonoid), and
hispidone (flavonoid).
Biflavonoids: Lanceolatin A, lanceolatin B, and hypnumbiflavonoid A.
Oryzanol and derivatives thereof: G-oryzanol.
Quinic acid and derivatives thereof: Quinic acid.
Phenols: Phenol.
Retinols: Retinol.
Cysteines: L-cysteine.
Peptides having an aromatic amino acid residue: Peptides having tryptophan, tyrosine
phenylalanine.
The preferred organic liquid UV filter(s) is selected from:
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl
salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4,
benzophenone-5, n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-methylbenzylidene
camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole
tetrasulfonate, ethylhexyl triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,
diethylhexyl butamido triazone, 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl-4-yl)-l,3,5-triazine,
2,4,6-tris(terphenyl)-l,3,5-triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol,
polysilicone- 15, dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate,
1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,
2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-tr^
ne, and their mixtures.
The preferred liquid UV filter(s) is selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl
methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA(p-aminobenzoic acid), ethylhexyl salicylate,
octocrylene, and homosalate.
The liquid UV filter may be used in the composition according to the present invention in
proportions such that the weight ratio of the inorganic UV filter powder to the liquid UV filter is
50:50 to 90:10, preferably 50:50 to 85:15, and more preferably 50:50 to 80:20.
Additives
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise other
additives usually used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, bactericides,
neutralizing agents, surfactants, waxes, sunscreens, vitamins, moisturizing agents, self-tanning
compounds or antiwrinkle active principles.
Examples of the antioxidants that may be used include BHT and tocopherol.
Examples of the preservatives that may be used include esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid, also
known as Parabens® (in particular methylparaben, ethylparaben or propylparaben),
phenoxyethanol, releasers of formaldehyde, such as, for example, imidazolidinyl urea or
diazolidinyl urea, chlorhexidine digluconate, sodium benzoate, caprylyl glycol, iodopropynyl
butylcarbamate, pentylene glycol, alkyltrimethylammonium bromide, such as
myristyltrimethylammonium bromide (CTFAname: myrtrimonium bromide),
dodecyltrimethylammonium bromide, hexadecyltrimethylammonium bromide and their mixtures,
such as the mixture marketed under the trademark Cetrimide® by FEF Chemicals. The
preservative can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging
from 0.001% to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular
ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight and especially ranging from 0.2% to 3% by weight.
Examples of the bactericides that may be used include a glyceryl mono(C3-C9)alkyl or
mono(C3-C9)alkenyl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in
E. Baer, H.O.L. Fischer-J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941. Among these glyceryl mono(C3-C )alkyl
or mono(C3-C9)alkenyl ethers, 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-l,2-propanediol,
3-[(heptyl)oxy]-1,2-propanediol, 3-[(octyl)oxy] -1,2-propanediol and
3-[(allyl)oxy]-l,2-propanediol are preferably used. A glyceryl mono(C3-C )alkyl ether that is
more particularly preferred according to the present invention is
3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-l,2-propanediol, sold by the company Schulke & Mayr GmbH under the
trade name Sensiva SC 50 (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin).
Examples of the surfactants that may be used include sucrose distearate, diglyceryl distearate,
tetraglyceryl tristearate, decaglyceryl decastearate, diglyceryl monostearate, hexaglyceryl
tristearate, decaglyceryl pentastearate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan tristearate, diethylene
glycol monostearate, the glyceryl ester of palmitic or stearic acid, polyoxyethylene 2EO
monosterate (comprising 2 oxyethylene units), glyceryl mono- and dibehenate, pentaerythrityl
tetrastearate, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate 4EO, polyoxyethylenated sorbitan
tristearate 20EO, polyoxyethylenated monostearate 8EO, hexaglyceryl monostearate,
polyoxyethylenated monostearate 10EO, polyoxyethylenated distearate 12EO,
polyoxyethylenated methylglucose distearate 20EO, and copolyol dimethicone such as cethyl
PEG17 dimethicone.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additive(s) added
to the composition such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the
cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention are not, or are not substantially,
adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[Preparation]
A manufacturing process of a powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention
comprises a step of (i) mixing the perlite and at least one inorganic UV filter powder having an
average primary particle size of lower than 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more
preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm, to provide a pulverulent mixture, wherein an amount of the
perlite is from 5 wt to 70 wt in relation to the total weight of the composition.
A manufacturing process according to the present invention may further comprise, after the step
(i), a step of (ii) adding a liquid to the pulverulent mixture to provide a bulk mixture, (iii)
pulverizing the bulk mixture, and optionally (iv) pressing the pulverized bulk mixture.
The step (iii) of pulverizing the bulk mixture is usually performed by well-known techniques in
the art, for example, by using a mill, such as a hammer mill.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be provided in the
form of a compact powder. If the above pressing step (iv) is not necessary, the powdery cosmetic
composition according to the present invention can be provided in the form of a loose powder.
The optional step of (iv) pressing the pulverized bulk mixture is performed by applying a
pressure ranging from 0.5 MPa to 10 MPa. In one embodiment of the present invention, the
pulverized bulk mixture may be pressed by applying a pressure ranging from 1 MPa to 5 MPa.
The powdery cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used as various
powdery cosmetic products, such as make-up products, in particular powdery foundations.
The manufacturing process according to the present invention does not require any special
industrial processes, for example special mixing or milling processes, which are expensive and
complicated. This is because the powdery cosmetic composition of the present invention can
achive good UV protecting effects without a use of a large amount of the inorganic UV filter
powder.
[Cosmetic process]
In another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process including the step of
applying to skin, preferably the face, the powdery cosmetic composition according to the present
invention. The cosmetic process preferably includes making up and/or caring for the skin,
preferably facial skin.
In the case that the composition is in the form of a compact powder, the powder can be picked up
with an applicator, such as a sponge, puff, or brush, by rubbing off the powder. Then the
powder is moved from the applicator to the skin by contacting the applicator on the skin.
The powdery cosmetic composition used in the cosmetic process according to the present
invention is preferably of the leave-in type. The term "leave-in" means a composition that is
not intended to be washed out or removed immediately after application.
The cosmetic process according to the present invention can provide long lasting cosmetic
effects, such as long lasting matte effects and/or color-keeping effects, as well as good UV
protecting effects. Therefore, for example, skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, pores
and wrinkles on the skin, in particular the face, can be masked for a long period of time. Thus,
the cosmetic process according to the present invention can produce good staying power on the
skin over time even under hot and/or humid conditions, for example, during summer.
Furthermore, the cosmetic process according to the present invention or the powdery cosmetic
composition according to the present invention can also provide good feeling upon use, texture,
spreadability, sebum resistance, sweat resistance and the like.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples.
However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Example 1 and Reference Examples 1 and 2
[Preparations]
The following powdery cosmetic compositions according to Example (Ex.) 1 and Reference
Examples (Ref.) 1 and 2, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in
Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all
based on " by weight" as active raw materials. Also, the value in parenthese of the inorganic
UV filter powder in Table 1 indicates a number-average size mean diameter (D50) measured
with Mastersizer 2000 by Malvern Corp. As the titanium dioxide, the product "MPT-141" from
Ishihara Sangyo was used.
The details of the components are shown below:
- Perlite: average particle size; IOmiti
- TalcA: average particle size; 25mh
- Talc B: average particle size; IOmhi
- Mica: average particle size; 25mih
Table 1
[UV Transmittance Evaluation]
The powdery cosmetic compositions (foundations) according to Example 1 and Reference
Examples 1 and 2 were compared in terms of UV transmittance. UV transmittance was
measured in accordance with following protocol:
(1) 5 wt% of the composition was dispersed in dimethicone (SHINETSU Silicone,
KF96-12,500 centi-stokes) to form a suspension,
(2) the obtained suspension was held between two square quartz glasses (GL Science,
catalogue# 6220-71031, 30mm*30mm*lmrnt), and the light path length was controlled to 50
microns by means of a lead spacer (GL Science, catalogue# 6220-20105, DC-You-Space, length:
0.05 mm), and then,
(3) transmittance was measured by means of a UV/Vis spectrophotometer (JASCO, UV-550)
attached to an integrating sphere (JASCO, ISV-469).
At least three differently assembled samples were measured to confirm reproducibility. The
results are shown in Table 2.
Table 2
Examples 2 and 3 and Reference Example 3
[Preparations]
The following powdery cosmetic compositions according to Examples (Ex.) 2 and 3, and
Reference Example (Ref.) 3, shown in Table 3, are prepared using the components shown in
Table 3 in accordance with the following protocol. The numerical values for the amounts of the
components shown in Table 3 are all based on " by weight" as active raw materials. Also, the
value in parenthese of the inorganic UV filter powder in Table 3 indicates a number-average size
mean diameter (D50) measured by SEM (Scanning Electron Microscope) and/or TEM
(Transmission Electron Microscope). The perlite used in these examples is the same as that
used in Example 1 above.
[Preparation Protocol]
(1) the entire amount of the powder components are mixed in a mixer to produce a
pulveruent mixture,
(2) the liquid components are put into the pulveruent mixture to produce a bulk mixture,
(3) the bulk mixture is pulverized with a hammer mill to form a pulverized bulk mixture,
and then
(4) the pulverized bulk mixture is pressed to form a powdery cosmetic composition
(foundation).
Pigmentary Titanium Dioxide Rutile Type 9 9 9
Iron Oxide 5 5 5
Pulverulent phase 92.4 92.4 92.4
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 4 4 4
Dimethicone 3 3 3
Ethylhexyl Glycerin 0.2 0.2 0.2
Caprylyl Glycol 0.4 0.4 0.4
Total 100 100 100
[Lastingness Evaluation]
The powdery cosmetic compositions (foundations) according to Examples 2 and 3, and
Reference Example 3 are compared in terms of long lasting cosmetic effects (long lasting, hiding
pores and lines, and coverage) for 5 days by panelists who applies l g of a sample to the face at
once a day in Indonesia. The lastingness is evaluated by visual observation to each of panelists.
[SPF Value Evaluation]
In vivo SPF value of the compositions according to Examples 2 and 3 is measured according to
ISO-24444 method with an SPF analyzer UV-2000S. The results of this test are shown in Table
4.
Table 4
The powdery cosmetic compositions according to Examples 2 and 3 can provide long lasting
cosmetic effects, as well as UV protecting effects.
CLAIMS
1. A powdery cosmetic composition comprising a pulverulent phase, wherein the pulverulent
phase comprises
(i) perlite in an amount of from 5 wt% to 70 wt% in relation to the total weight of the
composition, and
(ii) at least one inorganic UV filter powder having an average primary particle size of
lower than 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 100
nm.
2. The powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the particle size of perlite
is from 1 mhi to 50 mhi.
3. The powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the inorganic UV
filter powder is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and
cerium oxide.
4. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the
amount of the inorganic UV filter powder is from 3 wt% to 40 wt% in relation to the total
weight of the composition.
5. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the
composition is in the form of a compacted powder or a loose powder.
6. The powdery cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising
a liquid phase.
7. The powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the liquid phase comprises
a liquid UV filter.
8. The powdery cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the liquid UV filter is
selected from the group consisting of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl dimethyl
PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, and homosalate.
9 . A cosmetic process including a step of applying the powdery cosmetic composition
according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the skin, in particular the face.
10. A manufacturing process of a powdery cosmetic composition comprising a step of (i) mixing
perlite and an inorganic UV filter powder having an average primary particle size of lower
than 200 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 150 nm, and more preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm,
to provide a pulverulent mixture, wherein an amount of the perlite is from 5 wt% to 70 wt%
in relation to the total weight of the composition.
11. A manufacturing process according to claim 10, further comprising a step of (ii) adding a
liquid to the pulverulent mixture to provide a bulk mixture, (iii) pulverizing the bulk mixture,
and optionally (iv) pressing the pulverized bulk mixture, after the step (i).