The present invention relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a composition (A), comprising henna plant powder, and an aqueous composition (B), comprising one or more anionic direct dye(s), are successively applied on said keratin fibres.
Throughout the years, people have sought to modify the colour of their skin, their eyelashes or their hair. Several techniques have been developed to achieve the desired colour.
A first method for dyeing human keratin fibres implies dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
The shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers. The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
A second well-known method consists in applying to keratin fibres direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for the said fibres, in leaving them on for a time, and then in rinsing them off. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fibres and penetrate relatively little into the fibres, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.
The direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methane, azomethine, xanthenes, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes. The chemical species may be non-ionic, anionic (acidic dyes) or cationic (basic dyes). Direct dyes may also be natural dyes.

The colorations resulting therefrom are generally chromatic colorations but are, however, only temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fibre and their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fibre are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor fastness with respect to washing or perspiration
Despite these drawbacks, there is an increasing demand for methods that use safe natural products containing natural dyes.
One of the most well known natural dyes is that derived from the henna plant. Henna continues to be used in feminine beauty enhancement for colouring the hair, the nails or the skin, especially for temporary skin tattoos, or for dyeing leather, silk and wool, etc. It is also used traditionally for various important events, celebrations and beliefs.
This dye affords an orange-red coloration on grey hair, and a "warm" i.e. coppery to red colour on chestnut-brown hair. The dyeing process using henna is difficult to perform. A kind of "paste" (often referred to as a "poultice") is first made from ground or powdered henna leaves, which is then diluted at the time of use with warm water, and the said paste is then applied to the keratin fibres.
However, this process using the said paste has drawbacks. During the preparation and application of the composition to keratin fibres, it is not always possible to obtain satisfactory impregnation due to the poor consistency of the composition obtained from the coarsely ground powder. Furthermore, it is very difficult to hope to reproduce the shades exactly, since the lawsone content very often varies from one batch to another and between different ground materials. In addition, the orange colour delivered by henna is not really appreciated by the consumers.
Thus, there is a real need to provide henna natural dyeing methods that deliver more intense or powerful colourations, which are easy and quick to implement.
In particular, the colorations thus obtained should be darker than the original orange tons mediated by henna. The Applicant has

now discovered that these aims and others could be achieved by a process implying anionic direct dyes as post-treatment of a composition comprising henna plant powder.
The present invention therefore relates to a process for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein the following compositions are successively applied on said keratin fibres: a composition (A) comprising henna plant powder, and an aqueous composition (B) comprising one or more anionic direct dye(s).
The process according to the present invention, comprising the application of henna followed by the anionic dye composition, leads to more intense coloration.
In addition, the presence of the acidic post-treatment induces a darker shift to the original orange coloration mediated by henna alone. The colouration thus obtained is shifted to darker tons and natural brown, which are preferred by the consumers.
Moreover, the time devoted to dyeing using henna plant powder according to the process of the invention is shorter and the process is easier, without the need to keep a composition such as a poultice on the head for a long time (for several hours or even overnight) or to leave the composition (for example the poultice) to stand before application for a long time (several hours or several days).
Furthermore, the process of the present invention provides resistant colorations that are uniform between the end and the root of the same fibre and from one fibre to another.
Another object of the present invention concerns the use of one or more anionic direct dye(s) for dyeing keratin fibres previously dyed with henna plant powder.
In other words, the anionic direct dye(s) is (are) used on keratin fibres that have been previously dyed with henna plant powder.
The present invention also relates to the use of one or more anionic direct dye(s) for improving the intensity of the colour of keratin fibres previously dyed with henna plant powder.

Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In which that follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "of between" and "ranging from...to...".
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Composition (A)
The composition (A) according to the present invention comprises henna plant powder.
The henna used in the invention is preferably red henna {Lawsonia inermis, alba).
Red henna consists of leaves of shrubs of the genus Lawsonia from the family of Lythraceae, which is based on the principle of dyeing with the active agent lawsone: 2-hydroxy-l,4-naphthoquinone. Lawsone [83-72-7] (CI Natural Orange 6 ; CI 75420), also known as isojuglone, may be found in henna shrubs (Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis) ("Dyes, Natural", Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, "Henna" Encyclopedia Britannica).
It is understood that the henna plant powder used in the present invention is different from an extract. Specifically, an extract is a product of maceration in solvents, generally organic solvents, whereas the powder according to the invention is a pure natural product originating from henna plants, reduced by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles.
The composition (A) of the present invention comprises henna in powder form, preferably as fine particles, relative to the total weight of said composition (A).
The henna powder may be screened to obtain particles with upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the screen particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).

According to one particular mode of the invention, the size of the henna powder particles is fine. According to the invention, a particle size of less than or equal to 500 um is more particularly intended. Preferentially, the powder consists of fine particles with sizes inclusively between 50 and 300 um and more particularly between 10 and 200 um.
It is understood that the said henna particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder.
The amount of henna plant powder is preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 70% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition (A).
Composition (B)
The term "aqueous composition", according to the present invention, refers to a composition comprising at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, an aqueous composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water, more preferably more than 20% by weight of water, and better still more than 50% by weight of water, relative to the total weight or the composition. The composition may contain from 5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% by weight and better still from 20 to 80% by weight of water.
Anionic direct dyes
The aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic direct dye(s).
The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. The term "anionic direct dyes" is understood to mean any direct dye comprising, in its structure, at least one CO2R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or from an amine or an ammonium ion. The anionic dyes

can be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthra-quinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
Mention may be made, as acid dyes according to the invention, of the dyes of following formulae (I), (I*), (II), (II'), (III), (IIP), (IV), (IV), (V), (VI), (VII) and (VIII):
a) Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (I) or (I1)

R9 R10

(I)

R.

R.

R9 R10

c x w , c

(I')
wherein,
■ R7, R-8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'10, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio; hydroxyl, mercapto; nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group and X, X' and X", which are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

(0)2S(0")-M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
(0)CO-M+, with M+ as defined above;
R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
R'"-S(0)2-X'-, with R'" representing an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group and X' as defined above; (di)(alkyl)amino;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")- M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group;
cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl,
Ar-N=N-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (0)2S(0")- M+ or phenylamino groups;
or then two adjacent groups R7 with Rs or Rs with R9 or R9 with
Rio together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R's or R's
with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with
A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from
i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")- M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto;
vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-
C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted
aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X" and Ar as defined above;
■ W represents a sigma a bond, an oxygen or sulphur atom or a
divalent radical i) -NR-, with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -
C(Ra)(Rb)-, with Ra and Rb, which are identical or different,
representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or then Ra and Rb form,
together with the carbon atom which carries them, a spiro cycloalkyl;
preferably, W represents a sulphur atom or Ra and Rb together form a
cyclohexyl;

it being understood that the formulae (I) and (I1) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical (0)CO~-M+ on one of the A, A', B, B' or C rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (I), of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow.
And mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (I1), of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38.
b) Pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (II) and (IF)


R2o R'20 R«
R16vR'l6 /R17

x21
07^
Ra Rb

(IF)
wherein,
■ Rn, R12 and R13, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl or -(0)2S(0") M+ group, with M+ as defined above;
■ R14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(0)0" M+ group, with M+ as defined above;
■ R15 represents a hydrogen atom;
■ Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i6 is absent, or then R15 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
■ R17 and Ri8, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
(0)2S(0> M+, with M+ as defined above;
Ar-0-S(0)2-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
■ R19 and R20 together form either a double bond or an optionally substituted benzo group D';
■ R'i6, R'19 and R'20, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;
■ R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
■ Ra and Rb, which are identical or different, are as defined above; preferably, Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;
■ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;

■ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group;
and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group; it being understood that the formulae (II) and (II1) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0" M+ on either of the D or E rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (II), of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (II1), of: Acid Yellow 17.
c) Anthraquinone dyes of formulae (III) and (III')

wherein,
■ R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from: -alkyl;

-hydroxyl, mercapto;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
-optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0")- M+, with M+ as defined above;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0")- M+, with M+ as defined above;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; -(0)2S(0> M+, with M+ as defined above;
■ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR28R29 group with R28 and
R29, which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or
a group chosen from:
-alkyl;
-polyhydroxyalkyl, such as hydroxyethyl;
- aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i)
alkyl, such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0")- M+, with
M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-
X"-, with R°, X, X' and X" as defined above; preferably, R°
represents an alkyl group;
-cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl;
■ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'28R'29 with R'28
and R'29, which are identical or different, representing the same atoms
or groups as R28 and R29 as defined above;
it being understood that the formulae (III) and (III1) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0" M+; preferably sodium sulphonate.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (III), of: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT violet N° 2.
And mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (III*), of: Acid Black 48.

13
d) Nitro dyes of formulae (IV) and (IV')


ON
(R30)p
J
N
Rc

M' SO3-
N
RRd 31

(IV)

5

30 q
(R )

^g

W ALK SO3- M'

u

NO

(IV’)

10
15
20

wherein,
a
▪ R30, R31 and R32, which are identical or different, represent
hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- polyhaloalkyl;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X'"-, with R°, X, X' and X" as defined above;
- (O)2S(O-)- M+, with M+ as defined above;
- (O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
- heterocycloalkyl, such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino;
particularly, R30, R31 and R32 represent a hydrogen atom;

14
▪ Rc and Rd, which are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
▪ W is as defined above; W particularly represents an –NH–
group;
5 ▪ ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched, C1-C6 alkylene
group; particularly, ALK represents a –CH2-CH2- group;
▪ n has the value 1 or 2;
▪ p represents an integer of between 1 and 5 inclusive;
▪ q represents an integer of between 1 and 4 inclusive;
10 ▪ u has the value 0 or 1;
▪ when n has a value 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group,
particularly a nitro group;
▪ when n has a value 2, J represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or
a divalent radical –S(O)m– with m representing an integer 1 or 2;
15 preferably, J represents an –SO2– radical;
▪ M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
"-' ^ , which is present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above;
20 it being understood that the formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least
one sulphonate radical (O)2S(O-)- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O- M+; preferably sodium sulphonate.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (IV), of: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; mention may be made, as example of
25 dyes of formula (IV), of: Acid Yellow 1, sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-
naphthol-7-sulphonic acid, 2-piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, 2-(4'-N,N-(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)anilineethanesulphonic acid or 4-(p-hydroxyethylamino)-3-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, EXT D&C yellow 7.
30

15
e) Triarylmethane dyes of formula (V)

R

34
R

33
R

T^K
42

R
44
R
43

35
R
36
R

(V)

5 wherein,
▪ R33, R34, R35 and R36, which are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted
aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl group
and benzyl group optionally substituted by an (O) mS(O-)- M+ group,
10 with M+ and m as defined above;
▪ R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which are identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio; 15 - (di)(alkyl)amino;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, with R° representing
a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group and X, X' and X", which
20 are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or
NR, with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (O)2S(O-)- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
25 - or then two adjacent groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43
with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' optionally

16

5
10
15

substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso;
iii) (O)2S(O-)- M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino;
vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M+,
R°, X, X' and X" as defined above; particularly, R37 to R40 represent a hydrogen atom and R41 to R44, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (O) 2S(O-)- M+ group; and, when R43 with R44 together form a benzo group, it is preferably substituted by a (O)2S(O-)- group;
it being understood that at least one of the G, H, I or I' rings comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) 2S(O-)- or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferably sulphonate.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (V), of: Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9, Acid Violet 49, Acid green 3 ; Acid green 5 ; Acid Green 50.
f) Dyes derived from xanthene of formula (VI)

L

R 45 R 47

48
-
+

46
R

R
49
R
50

51
R

Q
'R
Q'- M
R
52

(VI)

20 wherein,
▪ R45, R46, R47 and R48, which are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
▪ R49, R50, R51 and R52, which are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
25 - alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;

17
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- (O)2S(O-)- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
5 - (O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
particularly, R45 R46, R47 and R48 represent a hydrogen or halogen
atom;
▪ G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with Re as
defined above; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
10 ▪ L represents an alkoxide O- M+; a thioalcoholate S- M+ or an NRf
group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+
as defined above; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;
▪ L' represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an ammonium group:
N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which are identical or different, representing
15 a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group; L'
particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group
optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or (O) mS(O-)- M+ groups,
with m and M+ as defined above;
▪ Q and Q', which are identical or different, represent an oxygen or
20 sulphur atom; particularly, Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
▪ M+ is as defined above.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (VI), of:
Acid Yellow 73, Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87, Acid Red
92, Acid Red 95, Acid Violet 9.
25
g) Dyes derived from indole of formula (VII)

R
R
58

54
R
55
R

R 53 G RiN
R
56
Rh G

60
R
57
R

59

(VII)

18
wherein,
▪ R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, which are identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
- alkyl;
5 - alkoxy, alkylthio;
- hydroxyl, mercapto;
- nitro, nitroso;
- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group and X, X' and X", which
10 are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or
NR, with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
- (O)2S(O-)- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
- (O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
15 ▪ G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with Re as
defined above; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
▪ R i and Rh, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen
atom or an alkyl group; it being understood that the formula (VII) comprises at least one
20 sulphonate radical (O)2S(O-)- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(O)O-
M+; preferably sodium sulphonate.
Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (VII), of: Acid Blue 74.
25 h) Dyes derived from quinoline of formula (VIII)
61N^-^/-^

R
62
HO
(VIII) wherein,

19
▪ R61 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
▪ R62, R63 and R64, which are identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or an (O)2S(O-)- M+ group, with M+ representing a
hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
5 ▪ or then R61 with R62 or R61 with R64 together form a benzo group
optionally substituted by one or more (O)2S(O-)- M+ groups, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
it being understood that the formula (VIII) comprises at least one
sulphonate radical (O)2S(O-)- M+, preferably sodium sulphonate.
10 Mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (VIII),
of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
i) The mesomeric or tautomeric forms of the structures (I) to (VIII);
j) and mixtures thereof.
15
More particularly, the dyes of formulae (I) to (VI) of use in the invention are chosen from:
(C.I. 45380) Acid Red 87 (VI)
(C.I. 10316) Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulphonic acid (IV')
(C.I. 10383) Acid Orange 3 (IV)
(C.I. 13015) Acid Yellow 9 / Food Yellow 2 (I)
(C.I. 14780) / Direct Red 45 / Food Red 13 (I)
(C.I. 13711) Acid Black 52 (I)
(C.I. 13065) Acid Yellow 36 (I)
(C.I. 14700) Sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2-(5'-sulphonato-2',4'-xylylazo)-naphthalene-4-sulphonic acid / Food Red 1 (I)
(C.I. 14720) Acid Red 14 / Food Red 3 / Mordant Blue 79 (I)
(C.I. 14805) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-[(2-methoxy-5-nitrophenyl)diaza]-6-(phenylamino)naphthalene-2-sulphonic acid / Acid Brown 4 (I)
(C.I. 15510) Acid Orange 7 / Pigment Orange 17 / Solvent Orange 49 (I)

20

(C.I. 15985) Food Yellow 3 / Pigment Yellow 104 (I)
(C.I. 16185) Acid Red 27 / Food Red 9 (I)
(C.I. 16230) Acid Orange 10 / Food Orange 4 (I)
(C.I. 16250) Acid Red 44 (I)
(C.I. 17200) Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12 (I)
(C.I. 15685) Acid Red 184 (I)
(C.I. 19125) Acid Violet 3 (I)
(C.I. 18055) Sodium salt of 1-hydroxy-2-(4'-(acetamido)phenylazo)-8-acetamidonaphthalene-3,6-disulphonic acid / Acid Violet 7 / Food Red 11 (I)
(C.I. 18130) Acid Red 135 (I)
(C.I. 19130) Acid Yellow 27 (II)
(C.I. 19140) Acid Yellow 23 / Food Yellow 4 (II)
(C.I. 20170) 4'-(sulphonato-2'',4''-dimethyl)bis(2,6-phenylazo)-1,3-dihydroxybenzene / Acid Orange 24 (I)
(C.I. 20470) Sodium salt of 1-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxynaphthalene-3,6-disulphonic acid / Acid Black 1 (I)
(C.I. 23266) (4-((4-Methylphenyl)sulphonyloxy)phenylazo)-2,2'-dimethyl-4-((2-hydroxy-5,8-disulphonato)naphthylazo)biphenyl / Acid Red 111 (I')
(C.I. 27755) Food Black 2 (I)
(C.I. 25440) 1-(4'-sulphonatophenylazo)-4-((2"-hydroxy-3"-acetylamino-6",8"-disulphonato)naphthylazo)-6-sulphonatonaphthalene (tetrasodium salt) / Food Black 1 (I)
(C.I. 42090) Acid Blue 9 (V)
(C.I. 60730) Acid Violet 43 (III)
(C.I. 61570) Acid Green 25 (III)
(C.I. 62045) Sodium salt of 1-amino-4-cyclohexylamino-9,10-anthraquinone-2-sulphonic acid / Acid Blue 62 (III)
(C.I. 62105) Acid Blue 78 (III)

21

(C.I. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)azo)-1-naphthalenesulphonic acid / Acid Red 4 (I)
2-Piperidino-5-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid (IV')
2-(4'-N,N-(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)anilineethanesulphonic acid (IV')
4-(p-Hydroxyethylamino)-3-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid (IV)
(C.I. 42640) Acid Violet 49 (V)
(C.I. 42080) Acid Blue 7 (V)
(C.I. 58005) Sodium salt of 1,2-dihydroxy-3-sulphoanthraquinone / Mordant Red 3 (III)
(C.I. 62055) Sodium salt of 1-amino-9,10-dihydro-9,10-dioxo-4-(phenylamino)-2-anthracenesulphonic acid / Acid Blue 25 (III)
(C.I. 14710) Sodium salt of 4-hydroxy-3-((2-methoxyphenyl)azo)-1-naphthalenesulphonic acid / Acid Red 4 (I)
The majority of these dyes are described in particular in the
Colour Index, published by The Society of Dyers and Colourists, P.O.
Box 244, Perkin House, 82 Grattan Road, Bradford, Yorkshire, BD1
5 2JB, England.
Use may also be made of compounds corresponding to the mesomeric or tautomeric forms of the structures (I) to (VIII).
The anionic dyes which are more particularly preferred are the
dyes denoted in the Colour Index under the code C.I. 60730
10 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-1-
anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulphonic acid), C.I. 15510
(monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulphonic
acid), C.I. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-
2,7-naphthalenedisulphonic acid), C.I. 20470 (disodium salt of 1-
15 amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-naphthalene
disulphonic acid), C.I. 19140 (disodium salt of tartrazine), mesomeric or tautomeric forms thereof and mixtures thereof.

22
The amount of anionic direct dye(s), present in the composition (B), ranges preferably from 0.001% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
5
Additional dyes
The aqueous composition (B) according to the present
invention may further comprise, in addition to the anionic direct dyes,
one or more additional synthetic or natural direct dyes chosen from
10 cationic, amphoteric or non ionic direct dyes.
Examples of suitable additional direct dyes that may be
mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as
cyanins, hemicyanins and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes;
nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes;
15 phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
Preferably the additional direct dyes are cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (IXa) and (IX’a), the azo cationic dyes (Xa) and (X’a) and the diazo cationic dyes (XIa) below:

Het+-C(Ra)=N- Het+-N(Ra)-N=C(Rb)- Het+-N=N-Ar, An-
N(Rb)-Ar, An- Ar, An- (IX’a) (Xa)
(IXa)
Ar+-N=N-Ar’’, An- and Het+-N=N-Ar’-
(X’a) N=N-Ar, An-(XIa)
in which formulae (IXa), (IX’a), (Xa), (X’a) and (XIa):
• Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably
bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium
25 or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially with one or more
(C1-C8) alkyl groups such as methyl;

23
• Ar+ representing an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl,
bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium,
particularly tri(C1-C8)alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium;
• Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is
5 optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more electron -
donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (C 1-C8)alkyl, ii)
optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkoxy, iii) (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino
optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv)
aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino, v) optionally substituted N-(C1-C8)alkyl-N-
10 aryl(C1-C8)alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine
group;
• Ar’ is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene
group such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene,
which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more
15 groups (C1-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl or (C1-C8)alkoxy;
• Ar’’ is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as
phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially
with one or more groups (C1-C8)alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C1-
C8)(alkyl)amino, (C1-C8)alkoxy or phenyl;
20 • Ra and Rb, which may be identical or different, represent a
hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C8)alkyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group;
or alternatively the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+
and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar and/or Ra with Rb form, together
25 with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl;
particularly, Ra and Rb represent a hydrogen atom or a group (C1-C4)alkyl, which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
• An- represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or
halide.
30 In particular, mention may be made of the azo and hydrazono
cationic dyes bearing an endocyclic cationic charge of formulae (IXa), (IX’a) and (Xa) as defined previously. More particularly those of formulae (IXa), (IX’a) and (Xa) derived from the dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

24
Preferentially, the cationic part is derived from the following derivatives:

R4
R—N V—C=N—N—d /)
\ / H \j/
R2 , An- R1
rN + /=v R2 \\ y~ N=N—^ ^— N z N ^^ R
R1 , An-
(IXa-1) (Xa-1)
5 formulae (IXa-1) and (Xa-1) with:
- R1 representing a (C1-C4) alkyl group such as methyl;
- R2 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen
atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, such as methyl; and
- R4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as
10 optionally substituted (C1-C8)alkyl, optionally substituted (C1-
C8)alkoxy, or (di)(C1-C8)(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the
alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R4 is a hydrogen
atom,
- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;
15 - An- represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or halide.
Particularly, the dye of formulae (IXa-1) and (Xa-1) is chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or derivatives thereof.
Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to
20 the invention, mention may be made of juglone, alizarin, purpurin,
carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde,
indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Extracts
or decoctions containing these natural dyes may also be used.
25 Nonionic surfactants
The aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more nonionic surfactant(s).
Nonionic surfactants, suitable for the present invention, are particularly chosen from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated,

25
monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be
5 mentioned include:
• oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;
• saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols;
• saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8-
10 C30 amides;
• esters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C 8-C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
• saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

• condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter 15 alia, alone or as mixtures.
• oxyethylenated and/nior oxypropylenated silicones,
• alkyl(poly)glucosides.
The surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide
and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2
20 and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic
surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention,
the nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyalkylenated nonionic
surfactants, in particular oxyethylenated C 8-C30 alcohols comprising
25 from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, and alkylpolyglucosides.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.
In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8-C40
30 alcohols correspond to formula (XII) below:
R29O-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]m-H (XII) wherein,

26
R29 represents a linear or branched C8-C40, and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical; and
m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30, and preferably from 1 to
10.
5 As examples of compounds of formula (XII) that are suitable
within the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl -4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl -4 Oleyl
10 Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
15 The alcohol of formula (XII) may represent a mixture of
alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is
20 more particularly preferred to use the C 8-C10 alcohol containing 1 mol
of glycerol, the C10-C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant used in the process of the
invention in the composition is a monooxyalkylenated or
25 polyoxyalkylenated, particularly monooxyethylenated or
polyoxyethylenated, or monooxypropylenated or polyoxypropylenated, nonionic surfactant, or a combination thereof, more particularly monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated.
The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) ma y be
30 represented by formula (XIII) below:
R1O-(R2O)t (G)v (XIII)
wherein,

27
R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched al kyl
group comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl
group in which the linear or branched alkyl group comprises from 8 to
24 carbon atoms,
5 R2 represents an alkylene group comprising from about 2 to 4 carbon
atoms,
G represents a saccharide unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to 4, and v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
10 Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s)
correspond to formula (XIII) wherein,
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,
15 t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal to 0, and
R2 and v are as defined previously.
The degree of polymerization of the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) as represented, for example, by the index v in formula (XIII) ranges on average from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to
20 4. This degree of polymerization more particularly ranges from 1 to 2
and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.
The glycoside bonds between the saccharide units are of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
Compounds of formula (XIII) that may be used in the present
25 invention are especially represented by the products sold by the
company Cognis under the names Plantaren® (600 CS/U, 1200 and 2000) or Plantacare® (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG 110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix® NS 10), the
30 products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70,
or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
It is also possible, for example, to use the 1,4- (C8-C16)alkylpolyglucoside as an aqueous solution at 53% by weight

28
relative to the total weight of the solution, sold by Cognis under the reference Plantacare® 818 UP.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the
aqueous composition (B) according to the invention is (are) saturated
5 or unsaturated and linear or branched oxyalkylenated C 8-C30 alcohols
and mixtures thereof.
When the nonionic surfactant(s) is (are) present in the aqueous
composition (B), its (their) total amount preferably ranges from 0.1 to
20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10 by weight and more preferably
10 from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous
composition (B).
Additional surfactant
The aqueous composition (B) according to the present
15 invention may further comprise, in addition to the non ionic
surfactants described above, one or more additional surfactants chosen from cationic, zwitterionic or anionic surfactants, and in particular form anionic surfactants.
The term "anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant
20 comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These
anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C(O)OH, – C(O)O-, -SO3H, -S(O)2O-, -OS(O)2OH, -OS(O)2O-, -P(O)OH2, -P(O)2O-, -P(O)O2-, -P(OH)2, =P(O)OH, -P(OH)O-, =P(O)O-, =POH and =PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali
25 metal, an alkaline-earth metal or an ammonium.
By way of examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the dye composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates,
30 alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates,
paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyl taurates, salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic

29
acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of
alkyl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids,
salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-
salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all
5 these compounds comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and the aryl
group denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-
10 polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C 6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-
citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl
polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, it/they may be
chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
15 and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in
particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the
magnesium salts.
By way of examples of amino alcohol salts, mention may in
particular be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and
20 triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or
triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-
amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and
tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular
25 sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
Use is preferably made, among the additional anionic
surfactants mentioned, of (C 6-C24)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C24)alkyl ether
sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, in particular in
the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline -earth
30 metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

30
Organic acids
The aqueous composition (B) according to the present
invention may further comprise one or more organic or mineral
acid(s).
5 For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic or
mineral acid" means an organic or mineral acid and/or the associated
bases thereof with a pKa of less than or equal to 7, prefer ably less
than or equal to 6, especially ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from
2 to 5.
10 In a first variant, the acid(s) used in the aqueous composition
(B) according to the invention is (are) chosen from organic acids, especially carboxylic and/or sulfonic acids.
More preferentially, the organic acid(s) is (are) chosen from
saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, in particular propanoic acid,
15 butanoic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic
acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the acid(s) used in the aqueous composition (B) is (are) chosen from hydroxy acids, and more preferably citric acid.
In a second variant, the acid(s) used in the aqueous
20 composition (B) according to the invention is (are) chosen from
mineral acids and in particular from hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid,
nitric acid and phosphoric acid, in particular from hydrochloric acid
and phosphoric acid.
When the acid(s) is (are) present in the aqueous composition
25 (B), its (their) total amount usually ranges from 0.05% to 10% by
weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
Fatty substances
30 Non-silicone fatty substances
The composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substance(s).

31
The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is
insoluble in water at ordinary ambient temperature (25°C) and at
atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a solubility in water of less
than 5%, preferably than 1% and even more preferentially than 0.1%.
5 The non-silicone fatty substances generally have in their structure a
hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In
addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents
under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance
chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or
10 decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
The non-silicone fatty substance(s) of the invention is (are), moreover, nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.
The term "non-silicone fatty substance" means a fatty substance of which the structure does not comprise any silicon atoms.
15 The fatty substance(s) may be liquid or non-liquid at ambient
temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of
20 1 s-1.
The liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) used in the present invention is (are) in particular chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol, non-salified fatty acids, alkoxysilanes having a fatty chain, and mixtures thereof.
25 The term “liquid hydrocarbon” means a hydrocarbon composed
solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 × 105 Pa).
More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
30 - linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6-C16 alkanes.
Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,

32
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or
synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid
paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum
jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product
5 sold under the brand name Parleam® by the company NOF
Corporation, and squalane.
Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) is (are) chosen from
liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane,
tridecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
10 In one preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon(s) is (are)
chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane, and a mixture of undecane and of tridecane.
The term “liquid fatty alcohol” means a nonglycerolated and
nonoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard
15 temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013
× 105 Pa).
Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or
20 unsaturated.
The saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
More particularly, the saturated liquid fatty alcohols of the
25 invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-
hexyldecanol.
Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.
The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure
at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double
30 bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2
or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.

33
More particularly, the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
5 The term “liquid fatty esters” means an ester derived from a
fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol that is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 × 105 Pa).
The esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or
10 unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or
polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1-C26
aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number o f carbon
atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of from
15 among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention
are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols,
mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl
myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl
20 stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and
isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1-
C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or
tricarboxylic acids and of C 4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy
25 or pentahydroxy nonsugar alcohols may also be used.
Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate;
diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di(n-propyl) adipate; dioctyl
adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;
octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
30 pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate;
propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl
erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl tr ilactate;
glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate;

34
propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl,
isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
5 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl
or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol
dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl
laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl
octanoate.
10 The composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) may
also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone
15 functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars
can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include saccharose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof,
20 especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance
methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
25 unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
30 These esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates,
laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.

35
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and
in particular of mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates,
oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates of sucrose,
glucose or methylglucose.
5 An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
Among the sugar esters, it is also possible to use
pentaerythrityl esters, preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,
10 pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and caprylic and capric acid hexaesters
as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.
Finally, natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol may also be used.
Among these, mention may be made of plant oils.
15 As oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be
used in the present invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:
- triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid
fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for
20 instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for
example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil,
sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara
groundnut oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil,
rose oil, kiwi seed oil, seabuckthorn pulp oil, bilberry oil, poppy oil,
25 orange seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vernonia oil ,
marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil,
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the
company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol®
810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea
30 butter oil.
Preferably, use will be made, as liquid esters according to the invention, of triglycerides of plant origin, in particular oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and

36
mixtures thereof, and esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, in particular 1,3-propanediol dicaprylate.
In order to be considered as a fatty substance, the fatty acid
must not be in generally soluble soap form, i.e. it must not be salified
5 with a base.
The liquid fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
Preferably, R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group and
10 better still a C12–C24 alkyl or C12–C24 alkenyl group. R may be
substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
The liquid fatty acid may in particular be chosen from oleic
acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.
15 The alkoxysilanes involved are those which have a fatty chain
preferentially comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.
Even more preferentially, the alkoxysilanes can be chosen from hexadecyltriethoxysilane and octadecyltriethoxysilane.
Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from
20 linear or branched C 6-C16 alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters,
in particular oils of plant origin and esters of C 4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols.
The fatty substance(s) used in the composition (A) and/or the
aqueous composition (B) according to the invention may also be fatty
25 substances which are non-liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at
atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013×105 Pa).
The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a
compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature
of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s1.
30 More particularly, the non-liquid fatty substances are chosen
from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non -silicone waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
The non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are chosen more particularly from saturated or

37
unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol). More
particularly, cetylstearyl alcohol will be used.
5 As regards the non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty
alcohols, mention may be made in particular of solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl
10 octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl
palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
The non-silicone wax(es) are chosen in particular from
15 carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite,
plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal wax es, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
20 Solid amides that may be mentioned include ceramides. The
ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules that may correspond to general formula (XIV) below:
25
R3CHOH CH CH2OR2
NH

CO
R1

(XIV)

wherein,
- R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl
30 radical, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this radical possibly being

38
substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl)n, (galactosyl)m or
5 sulfogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4
and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
- R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based radical which is saturated or
unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this radical to
be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl radicals;
10 it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or
glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 α-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C 16-C30 α-hydroxy acid.
The ceramides which are preferred in the context of the present
15 invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol., Vol.
123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.
The ceramide(s) that is (are) more particularly preferred
according to the invention is (are) the compound(s) for which R 1
20 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16-C22 fatty
acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear
C15 radical.
Such compounds are, for example:
- N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, 25 - N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine,
- N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine,
- N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine,
- N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine,
or mixtures of these compounds.
30 Even more preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which
R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical; and R 3
denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

39
Other waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used
according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as those
sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes of
polyethylene or of polyolefin in general.
5 The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and
in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
10 Preferentially, the fatty substance(s) used in the composition
(A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) according to the invention is (are) chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes and linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as
15 liquid parafins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid
petroleum jelly; fatty acid esters, in particular oils of plant origin and esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1-C22 alcohols, these esters being more preferentially chosen from triglycerides of plant origin and liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures
20 thereof.
More preferentially, the non-silicone fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from petroleum jelly, coconut oil, cetylstearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
When the non-silicone fatty substance(s) is (are) present in the
25 composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) of the present
invention, its (their) total amount ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and/or to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
30 According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A)
comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substance(s) as described above, preferably liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and more preferentially chosen from petroleum jelly, coconut oil, cetylstearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. The amount of non-

40
silicone fatty-substances present in the composition (A) is
advantageously greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more
preferentially greater than or equal to 7% by weight, and better still
greater than or equal to 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of
5 the composition (A).
Silicones
The composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B),
according to the present invention may further comprise one or more
silicone fatty substance(s).
10 According to an embodiment, the aqueous composition (B)
according to the present invention comprises one or more silicone fatty
substance(s).
Preferably, the silicone fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs),
15 and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional
group chosen from amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter
Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
20 When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly
chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C,
and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and
preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,
25 octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name
Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by
Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile
Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia,
and mixtures thereof.
30 Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone®
FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

41

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic
polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the
5 mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-
hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2
10 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5×
10-6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in
particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.
Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article
published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32,
15 Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from
20 polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity
of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM Standard 445
Appendix C.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a
25 nonlimiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
30 such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;

42
- the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of
the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing
dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name Dimethiconol
5 (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be
made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801
by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(C1-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.
The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance
10 with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising
in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in
particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes
15 functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear
and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1×10 -5 to
5×10-2 m²/s at 25°C.
20 Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from
Rhodia;
25 - the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow
Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product
PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the
30 products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF
1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Mention may also be made, among the organomodified silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:

43
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the
products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the
company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and
Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The
5 substituted amine groups are, in particular, C 1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxy groups such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax® 2428,
2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
Preferably, the silicone fatty substance(s) that may be used in
10 the compositions according to the invention is (are) chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
When the silicone fatty substance(s) is (are) present in the
composition (A) and/or (B), its (their) total amount preferably ranges
from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by
15 weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and/or to
the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
Organic solvents
The composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B)
20 according to the present invention may further comprise one or more
organic solvent(s).
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include
linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol;
glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol,
25 propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl
ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether; and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably the organic solvents are chosen from sorbitol,
30 When they are present, the amount of organic solvents usually
ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and/or to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).

44
Additives
The composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B)
according to the present invention may further comprise one or more
additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
5 As additives that may be used in accordance with the invention,
mention may be made of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or
mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents
for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth,
sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers,
10 solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners,
especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, fragrances and preserving agents.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to
select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the
15 advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition
according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely
affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The above additives may generally be present in an amount, for
each of them, of between 0.001% and 20% by weight relative to the
20 total weight of the composition (A) and/or to the total weight of the
aqueous composition (B).
An object of the present invention is thus a process for dyeing
keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein a
25 composition (A), as described above, and an aqueous composition (B),
as described previously are successively applied on said keratin fibres.
In other words, the composition (A) is applied on said keratin fibres, before the application of the aqueous composition (B).
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (A) is
30 diluted with water before its application on the keratin fibres. The
water is preferably warm water.
More preferably, the composition (A) is diluted in water according to a weight ratio ranging from 1:1 to 1:5.

45
The composition (A) may be applied on wet or on dry keratin fibres.
After an optional leave-on-time, the composition (A) may be
rinsed off with water prior to the application of the aqueous
5 composition (B).
Following the application of the aqueous composition (B), the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
The leave-on-time of the composition (A) on the keratin fibres
10 may range from 5 to 120 minutes, preferably from 10 to 90 minutes,
and more preferably from 15 to 60 minutes.
The leave-on-time of the aqueous composition (B) on the
keratin fibres may range from few seconds to 60 minutes, preferably
from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, and more preferably from 10 seconds to
15 15 minutes.
Another object of the present invention concerns the use of one or more anionic direct dyes for dyeing keratin fibres previously dyed with henna plant powder.
The present invention also relates to the use of one or more
20 anionic direct dyes for improving the intensity of the colour of keratin
fibres previously dyed with henna plant powder.
In the present invention, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
25 The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention
without, however, being limiting in nature.
The colour of the locks can be evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.
In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote,
30 respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*)
and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*). The higher the value of L*, the
lighter the colour. The higher the value of a*, the redder the colour
and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the colour.

46
EXAMPLES

5

In the examples that follow and unless otherwise indicated, all the amounts are given as mass percentages of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

10

1. Compositions
The following compositions (A) and (B) can be prepared according to the following ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percent by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Composition (A)
Coconut oil 10
Sorbitol 1
Lawsonia inermis leaf powder 88.4
Fragrance 0.6

15

Aqueous composition (B)
Cetylstearyl alcohol (C 16/C18 – 50/50) 9
Petroleum jelly 1.5
Cetylstearyl alcohol (20 OE) 3
Propylene glycol 1.5
Benzyl alcohol 2.5
Citric acid 0.2
Disodium salt of acid fuchsine(Red 33) 0.017
Disodium salt of tartrazine (Yellow 5) 0.028
Sodium salt of orange 2 (Orange 4) 0.083
Sodium salt of alizurol purple (EXT Violet 2) 0.025
Acid black 1 0.097
Polydimethylsiloxane (350 cSt) 2
Water Qs 100

2. Procedure
Process 1: invention
At the time of use, the composition (A) can be diluted with warm water (45°C) in a ratio of 1:2.5 and mixed for 15 minutes. The henna-paste thus obtained can be applied on 1 gram of hair swatch for one hour and then rinsed with water.
5 grams of the composition (B) can be applied on the hair swatch for 5 minutes and rinsed off with water.
Process 2: comparative
5 grams of the composition (B) can be applied on 1 gram of hair swatch for 5 minutes, and then rinsed off with water.
Composition (A), diluted and mixed in warm water during 15 minutes, can then be applied on the hair swatch. After a leave-on-time of one hour, the henna-mixture can be rinsed off with water.
The use of the claimed process, consisting in the successively application of a henna-paste and an anionic direct dye composition, is expected to result in a significant darker and more intense colouration than a process according to the prior art, wherein both compositions are reversed.

WE CLAIM

Process for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human
keratin fibres, wherein the following compositions are successively
applied on said keratin fibres:
a composition (A) comprising henna plant powder, and an aqueous composition (B) comprising one or more anionic direct dye(s).
2. Process according to Claim 1, wherein the amount of henna plant powder is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, and more preferably greater than or equal to 70% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition (A).
3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the anionic direct dyes are chosen from:
a) Diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (I) or (!')

(I)


R9 R10

(I')

wherein,
■ R7, R8, R9, Rio, R'7, R'8, R'9 and R'10, which are identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
alkyl;
alkoxy, alkylthio;
hydroxyl, mercapto;
nitro, nitroso;
R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, with R° representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group and X, X' and X", which are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or NR with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
(0)2S(0")- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
(O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
R"-S(0)2-, with R" representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group;
R'"-S(0)2-X'-, with R'" representing an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group and X' as defined above;
(di)(alkyl)amino;
aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")- M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above;
optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferably a benzothiazolyl group;
cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl,
Ar-N=N-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group;
or then two adjacent groups R7 with Rs or Rs with R9 or R9 with Rio together form a fused benzo group A'; and R'7 with R's or R's with R'9 or R'9 with R'10 together form a fused benzo group B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0)2S(0")- M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto;

vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X" and Ar as defined above; ■ W represents a sigma a bond, an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical i) -NR-, with R as defined above, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)-, with Ra and Rb, which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or then Ra and Rb form, together with the carbon atom which carries them, a spiro cycloalkyl; it being understood that the formulae (I) and (I1) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical (0)CO~-M+ on one of the A, A', B, B' or C rings; preferably sodium sulphonate;
b) Pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (II) and (IF)

R20 R'20 R19
R16\F'l6 /R17
(II)

'21
<^^3
Ra Rb

wherein,

(IF)

■ Rn, R12 and R13, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl or -(0)2S(0") M+ group, with M+ as defined above;
■ R14 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(0)0" M+ group, with M+ as defined above;
■ R15 represents a hydrogen atom;
■ Ri6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i6 is absent, or then R15 with Ri6 together form a double bond;
■ R17 and Ri8, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
(0)2S(0> M+, with M+ as defined above;
Ar-0-S(0)2-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group;
■ R19 and R20 together form either a double bond or an optionally substituted benzo group D';
■ R'i6, R'19 and R'20, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group;
■ R21 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group;
■ Ra and Rb, which are identical or different, are as defined above;
■ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group;
■ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group;
and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group;
it being understood that the formulae (II) and (II1) comprise at least
one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical
-C(0)0" M+ on either of the D or E rings; preferably sodium
sulphonate;

c) Anthraquinone dyes of formulae (III) and (III')



R23 R24
R23' R24

z O R

22

(III)
(IIP)

wherein,
■ R22, R23, R24, R25, R26 and R27, which are identical or different,
represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
-alkyl;
-hydroxyl, mercapto;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
-optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio;
- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0)2S(0")- M+, with M+ as defined above;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino; -(0)2S(0> M+, with M+ as defined above;
■ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR28R29 group with R28 and
R29, which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or
a group chosen from:

-alkyl;
-polyhydroxyalkyl, such as hydroxyethyl;
- aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i)
alkyl, such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (0)2S(0")- M+, with
M+ as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-
X"-, with R°, X, X' and X" as defined above;
-cycloalkyl; in particular cyclohexyl; ■ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'28R'29 with R'28 and R'29, which are identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined above;
it being understood that the formulae (III) and (III1) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0" M+; preferably sodium sulphonate;
d)Nitro dyes of formulae (IV) and (IV)
M' SO3- 0 M

30'p
(Ran)

(IV)

. '*^£
(R30) —

NO,

W—ALK— S03" M'

(IV)

wherein,
■ R30, R31 and R32, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from: -alkyl;

-alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups,
alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
-hydroxyl, mercapto;
-nitro, nitroso;
-polyhaloalkyl;
-R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X"'-, with R°, X, X' and
X" as defined above;
-(0)2S(0> M+, with M+ as defined above;
-(O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
- (di)(alkyl)amino;
- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;
-heterocycloalkyl, such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino;
■ Rc and Rd, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
■ W is as defined above; W particularly represents an -NH-group;
■ ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched, C1-C6 alkylene group; particularly, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
■ n has the value 1 or 2;
■ p represents an integer of between 1 and 5 inclusive;
■ q represents an integer of between 1 and 4 inclusive;
■ u has the value 0 or 1;
■ when n has a value 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group, particularly a nitro group;
■ when n has a value 2, J represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical -S(0)m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2;
■ M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ ~'' , which is present or absent, represents a benzo group
optionally substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above; it being understood that the formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0" M+; preferably sodium sulphonate;

e) Triarylmethane dyes of formula (V)


X
M2
R„ R

43

(V)

wherein,
■ R33, R34, R35 and R36, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl;
■ R37, R38, R39, R40, R41, R42, R43 and R44, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
-alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
- (di)(alkyl)amino; -hydroxyl, mercapto; -nitro, nitroso;
-R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, with R° representing
a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group and X, X' and X", which
are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or
NR, with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
-(0)2S(0")- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic
counterion;
-(O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
-or then two adjacent groups R41 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43
with R44 together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I' optionally
substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso;
iii) (0)2S(0")- M+; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino;

vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M+,
R°, X, X' and X" as defined above; it being understood that at least one of the G, H, I or I' rings comprises at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0"; preferably sulphonate;
f) Dyes derived from xanthene of formula (VI)

wherein,
■ R45, R46, R47 and R48, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
■ R49, R50, R51 and R52, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
-alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
-hydroxyl, mercapto;
-nitro, nitroso;
-(0)2S(0")- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic
counterion;
-(O)CO-- M+, with M+ as defined above;
■ G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined above;
■ L represents an alkoxide O" M+; a thioalcoholate S" M+ or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined above;

■ L' represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group;
■ Q and Q', which are identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulphur atom;
■ M+ is as defined above;
g)Dyes derived from indole of formula (VII)

(VII)
wherein,
■ R53, R54, R55, R56, R57, R58, R59 and R60, which are identical or
different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
-alkyl;
- alkoxy, alkylthio;
-hydroxyl, mercapto;
-nitro, nitroso;
-R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-X"-, with R° representing
a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or aryl group and X, X' and X", which
are identical or different, representing an oxygen or sulphur atom or
NR, with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;
-(0)2S(0~)- M+, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic
counterion;
-(O)CCr- M+, with M+ as defined above;
■ G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined above;
■ Ri and Rh, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

it being understood that the formula (VII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+ or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0" M+; preferably sodium sulphonate;
h)Dyes derived from quinoline of formula (VIII)

(VIII)
wherein,
■ R.61 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;
■ R.62, R-63 and R.64, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an (0)2S(0")- M+ group, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
■ or then R.61 with R.62 or R.61 with R.64 together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (0)2S(0")- M+ groups, with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
it being understood that the formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (0)2S(0")- M+, preferably sodium sulphonate;
i) the mesomeric or tautomeric forms of the structures (I) to (VIII);
j) and mixtures thereof.
4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims,
wherein the anionic direct dyes are chosen from monosodium salt of 2-
[(9,10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9,10-dioxo-l-anthracenyl)amino]-5-
methylbenzenesulphonic acid, monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-l-
naphthyl)azo]benzenesulphonic acid, disodium salt of 5-amino-4-
hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-2,7-naphthalenedisulphonic acid, disodium salt
of l-amino-2-(4'-nitrophenylazo)-7-phenylazo-8-hydroxy-3,6-

naphthalene disulphonic acid), disodium salt of tartrazine, mesomeric or tautomeric forms thereof and mixtures thereof.
5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of anionic direct dyes ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous composition (B) further comprises one or more nonionic surfactant(s).
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous composition (B) further comprises one or more organic or mineral acid(s).
8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) further comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substance(s).
9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition (A) further comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substance(s), preferably liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

10. Process according to the preceding claim, wherein the amount of non-silicone fatty substances is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
11. Process according to any one of the claims 8 to 10, wherein the fatty substances are chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C6-Ci6 alkanes and linear or branched

hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid parafins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly; fatty acid esters, in particular oils of plant origin and esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, these esters being more preferentially chosen from triglycerides of plant origin and liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims,
wherein the composition (A) is rinsed off prior to the application of
the aqueous composition (B).
13. Use of one or more anionic direct dye(s) for dyeing keratin fibres previously dyed with henna plant powder.
14. Use of one or more anionic direct dye(s) for improving the intensity of the colour of keratin fibres previously dyed with henna plant powder.