F O R M 2
THE PATENTS ACT, 1970 (39 of 1970)
COMPLETESPECIFICATION
(See section 10 and rule 13)
1. TITLE OF THE INVENTION
PROCESS OF JEWELLERY SETTING
2. APPLICANT(S)
(a)NAME
(b)NATIONALITY
(c)ADDRESS ZEST CORPORATION
INDIAN Company
602, SHREE KRUPA PRASAD CHSL,
BEHIND SONY MONY SHOWROOM,
S.V. ROAD, VILE PARLE (WEST),
MUMBAI-400056, MAHARASHTRA
3. PREAMBLE TO THE DESCRIPTION
PROVISIONAL
The following specification describes invention COMPLETE(V)
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed
4. DESCRIPTION (Description shall start from next page)
5. CLAIMS (not applicable for provisional specification. Claims should start with the preamble - “I/We claim” on separate page)
6. DATE AND SIGNATURE ( to be given on the last page of specification)
7. ABSTRACT OF THE INVENTION (to be given along with complete specification on the separate page)
Note:
*Repeat boxes in case of more than one entry
*To be signed by the applicant(s)or the authorized registered patent agent
*Name of the applicant should be given in full, family name in the beginning
*Complete address of the applicant should be given stating with postal index no. / code, state and country
*Strike out the column which is/are not applicable
This Form is Digitally Sign ed.
FIELD OF INVENTION
The present invention relates to a process for setting precious gems. More particularly, the present invention relates to a process for setting gems, especially precious peargems such as diamonds, into a unique setting to make it visibly look big solitaire pears.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
There are many kinds of setting techniques prevalent in the industry for decades. The basic idea of all kinds of settings is to hold the precious gems like diamonds with minimum metal so as to expose the gem or the diamond to maximum light, thereby making it visibly more attractive. The intent is to give the jewelry a bold and bigger look by creating an illusion of a single large diamond at a fraction of the cost of a solitaire diamond.
One such setting is the pressure setting wherein the centre round shaped gem is held in place by the surrounding 6 (six) gems in a circular pattern, and overlapping it. The centre gem is secured in place with the pressure applied from these gems. There is limitation in the look achieved which entirely depends on the sizes of the diamonds used. The bigger the size of the diamonds used, the higher is the perceived price. The maximum number of diamonds used in such kinds of settings is 13 (thirteen). The above technique is limited to a two layered setting pattern if the centre gem is considered as the first layer.
A similar alternate setting places the centre gem below 4 (four) equally sized round shaped gems in a square formation. The centre gem sits on the rim of the metal below. The centre gem does not depend upon the upper gems for being secured. The limitations are again similar to the first instance of setting.
Numerous gem mountings or settings are known to the art as are numerous prior inventions for setting such gems or gem. U.S. Pat. No. 4,566,294 entitled METHOD FOR THE MOUNTING OF GEMS AND RESULTING PRODUCT, patented Jan. 28, 1986, discloses a mounting and method utilizing a groove having an inwardly tapered conical lower portion wherein the taper of the groove is smaller than the taper of the boundaries of the gems set in the groove. This is contrary to certain embodiments of the present invention comprising an inwardly tapered groove, conical in transverse cross-section, or conical cavities wherein the taper of the groove or cavities is substantially the same as the taper of the boundaries of the gems set in the groove or cavities. Another patent disclosing a mounting for gems is U.S. Pat. No. 5,099,660 entitled MOUNTING FOR GEM GEMS, patented Mar. 31, 1992. This patent discloses a setting wherein alternating relatively large and relatively small gems are set with the relatively large gems being set higher than the relatively small gems. The gems alternate one relatively large gem and two relatively small gems with portions of the relatively small gems being overlapped by the adjacent relatively large gems. This overlapping of gems, unlike the present invention, undesirably causes a loss in viewing of portions of the relatively small gems and a loss in brilliance from the overlapped smaller gems.
Still further, there exists a need in the art for a jeweler to be able to satisfy the foregoing needs and to do so with a jewelry mounting or setting, and method of manufacture, which permits such needs to be satisfied utilizing machine setting of the gems with a minimum of hand or manual setting.
Stone setting is a highly-skilled art. In fine jewellery, precious and non-precious stones are often set in prongs formed in the jewellery. Skilled workers are required to perform such setting operations, and sometimes such stones can be damaged. Since labour is an expensive element in the manufacture of jewellery, various approaches have been employed to simplify the assembly of jewellery, especially fine jewellery employing precious and non-precious stones.
In the conventional prior practice, each stone is mounted in its own housing or prong setting. If two or more stones are to be connected, then mountings are linked in an article of jewellery.
Other objects, advantages and features of this invention will become more apparent from the following description. The above techniques are limited to a two layered setting pattern if the centre gem(s) are (is) considered as the first layer. The look achieved by the above patents entirely depends on the sizes of the diamonds used. The bigger the size of the diamonds used, the higher is the perceived price.
The need is to improve upon the setting techniques wherein smaller sized gems (but more in number) can be used to give a much bigger illusion at a much lesser price, thereby adding infinite number of layers.
OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
It is the object of the present invention to improve upon the prior techniques and provide a process for setting precious gems in a way as to give a much bigger solitaire diamond effect and make it visibly more attractive.
Jewellery embodying the present invention and satisfying the foregoing needs includes a body of jewellery material, a single large gem and a second plurality of relatively small gems, and a gem mounting on the body of jewellery material with mounting the gems serially, placing a larger gem as a central gem and first layer of gem, the centergem having a boundary, a girdle and a crown; the plurality of relatively small gems are mounted at the said boundary, overlapped such that the center gem is placed at a higher level than the relatively small gems.
A method embodying the present invention and satisfying the foregoing needs in the art includes the steps of providing a body of jewellery material, providing a single large gem and a second plurality of relatively small gems, mounting the gems on the body of jewellery material serially, placing a larger gem as a central gem and first layer of gem, the center gem having a boundary, a girdle and a crown; the plurality of relatively small gems are mounted at the said boundary, overlapped such that the center gem is placed at a higher level than the relatively small gems.
An object of this invention is to provide an improved method of assembling coloured, precious and semi-precious stones preferably diamondsin a base metal including platinum, gold and silver jewellery.
Another object of this invention is to simplify the assembly procedure so as to utilize workers of lower skill.
Yet another object of this invention is to provide such an apparatus and method which reduces the cost of assembly of gold and silver jewellery.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention is an improved setting for pear-shaped gems utilizing the aesthetic and inherently protective (shielding) properties associated with the modified mounting in order to look like a bigger solitaire. The invention, self-centering setting provides for the gem to be permanently set with minimum risk to the gem during the actual setting process with a major aesthetic advantage.
In the present art of inside gem setting, gems are mounted and set from the top down. As for pear shaped gems, the process typically involves making a central cavity approximately 2/3 the diameter of the gem and then making a plurality of small cavity near the boundary of the central cavity such that the gem boundaries get overlapped and the depth of the smaller cavity is more than that of the central cavity.
The assembly of the gems involve placing each of the respective layers of gems adjacent and marginally below the central gem such that the boundary walls of each of the layer forms the base of the cavity of the next layer; gems in each of the layers are held only from one side by said side wall; the gems of following layer marginally overlap the crown of the gems at the previous layer to hide the metal wall holding said girdle of the gems; and such that the gems in adjacent layers touch each other.
While several types of settings exist, none securely fixes a gem within a setting while maximizing the visible area of external reflection with the adjunct concentric bezel face thus enhancing the results of internal refraction too. Also, none is as easy to install as the present invention.
In accordance with these and other objects which will become apparent hereinafter, the instant invention will now be described with particular reference to the accompanying drawings.
DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
A preferred embodiment of the present invention will now be described with
reference to the figures accompanying the specification wherein:
FIG. 1(a) shows the front, side and perspective view of the mounting before setting in their respective slots.
FIG. 1(b)shows the front, side and perspective view of the mounting after setting in their respective slots in accordance with the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
Referring to the figures, the gems are set in a multi layered pattern in and partially rotational manner starting from a central rising point to lower sides. Each figure described above shows the process in a decremented setting format. Gems in adjacent layers (above and below) are overlapped and touching each other.
The centregem, as a first layer of gem, is placed in a central cavity formed by the base metal with a floor. This centregem is having a boundary, a girdle and a crown, such that the boundary is placed inside the above stated cavity, the girdle inserted in incisions in the side walls of the base metal from the side. Thereafter each of the respective layers of gems are placed adjacent and marginally below each other, each gem having a boundary, girdle and crown such that the boundary of each of the respective gems is placed in its respective cavity, and the girdle of each gem is inserted in the incisions in the side walls; such that the side walls of each of the layer forms the base of the cavity of the next layer; and gems in each of the said layers are held only from one side by said side wall. The gems of each of the following layer marginally overlap the crown of the gems at the previous layer to hide the metal wall holding the girdle of the gems. Further, the gems in adjacent layers also touch each other.
The jewellery setting has a metal floor base with a central cavity as shown in Fig 1. A mounting with the centre gem placed in a cavity which has surrounding metal walls where the diamonds are incised and secured is set. A preferred embodiment of the invention has been described using gems set up to multiple layers where the centre gem is counted as the first layer. The gem is set and held firmly in the side walls of the base metal. These walls also act as the base of the metal cavities formed adjacent and below the centre gem in a step pattern in a semi rotational manner. A 2nd layer of gems are placed into the adjacent cavities. The centre gem is slightly overlapped by the second layer gems which are set below it into these metal cavities.
The 2nd layer gems are set and held firm in the side walls surrounding them which are not visible from the top after setting is done. Additional layers can be added as per the desire of the customers using the above method. The second layer thereby is set into a series of prongs placed in a semi rotational manner. All gems are set in the wall of the collets holding diamonds below the level of central gem. The various forms and shapes made using this technique are hexagonal round, square, marquee, pear, oval, cushion and heart. All other kinds of shapes and forms, geometric and non-geometric, are covered in the scope of this technique.
Faceting on holding metal cut on CNC machine so all facet cut symmetrical and angle of the groove maintain properly.
The setting using the above technique is very compact, leaving no visible negative space between the gems. The sizes of each gem vary as per spaces available geometrically. Further, the placement of the gems is synchronous with the height, thickness, width and diameter of the metal collets. If the gems are seen from the top view, as depicted in FIG. 1 (b), no metal is visible between the gems—only the metal prongs in the boundary surrounding the last layer are visible. Without any visible metal, it appears as a single large gem. The gems of the upper layers excluding the centre gem are held very finely from one side which is again hidden from view. The other side of the gem is only supported by the metal collets lying below it giving it an appearance of floating in the air. The intention is to elaborate the look with plurality of layers of diamonds merging into each other seamlessly.
The difference of the setting disclosed in the present invention that gems in the adjacent layers disclosed in the present setting touch each other when they are overlapping. The gems are set in the side walls. The overlapping of diamonds is done to hide the walls from visibility.
Although the invention has been described in terms of particular embodiments and applications, one of ordinary skill in the art, in light of this teaching can generate additional embodiments and modifications without departing from the spirit of or exceeding the scope of the claimed invention. It should be emphasized that the above-described embodiments of the present invention, particularly any “preferred” embodiments, are merely possible examples of the invention of implementations, merely set forth for a clear understanding of the principles of the invention. Accordingly, it is to be understood that the drawings and descriptions herein are proffered by way of example to facilitate comprehension of the invention and should not be construed to limit the scope thereof.
WE CLAIM:
1.A method of setting gems preferably pear shaped gem in a mounting
comprising:
making a central cavity over a base metal approximately 2/3 the diameter of
the gem;
making a plurality of small cavities near the boundary of the central cavity
such that the gem boundaries get overlapped and the depth of the smaller
cavity is more than that of the central cavity;
placing a center gem as a first layer of gem, said center gem having a
boundary, a girdle and a crown, such that the boundary is placed inside said
cavity; said girdle is inserted in incisions in the side walls of said base metal
from the side;
placing a second layer of gems adjacent and marginally below the level of
central gem, each gem having a boundary, girdle and crown such that the
boundary of each of the respective gems is placed in its respective cavity;
girdle of each gem is inserted in the incisions in the side walls, such that side
walls of each of the layer form the base of the cavity of the next layer; and the
said gems in adjacent layers touch each other;
faceting on holding metal cut on CNC machine so all facet cut symmetrical
and angle of the groove maintain properly.
2.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein adjacent to the second
layer more layers of gems are placed adjacent and marginally below previous
layer, each gem having a boundary, girdle and crown such that the boundary
of each of the respective gems is placed in its respective cavity, and the girdle
of each gem is inserted in the incisions in the side walls; such that the side
walls of each of the layer forms the base of the cavity of the next layer; and
gems in each of the said layers are held only from one side by said side wall.
The gems of each of the following layer marginally overlap the crown of thegems at the previous layer to hide the metal wall holding the girdle of the gems and the gems in adjacent layers also touch each other.
3.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein no metal is visible between the gems and only the metal prongs in the boundary surrounding the last layer are visible.
4.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the gems of the upper layers excluding the center gem are held very finely from one side which is again hidden from view and the other side of the gem is only supported by the metal collets lying below it giving it an appearance of floating in the air.
5.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the gems of each of the plurality of layers marginally overlap the crown of the gems at the previous layer and the following layer.
6.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the plurality of layers of diamonds merges into each other seamlessly.
7.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the base metal includes platinum, gold and silver.
8.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the appearance of the plurality of assembled gems is as a single large gem without any visible metal.
9.The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the size of each gem vary as per spaces available geometrically and the placement of the gems is synchronous with the height, thickness, width and diameter of the metal collets.
10. The method of setting as claimed in claim 1, wherein the gems include precious stores and preferably diamonds.