FORM 2
THE PATENT ACT 1970
(39 OF 1970)
&
The Patents Rules, 2003
COMPLETE SPECIFICATION
(See section 10 and rule 13)
1. TITLE OF THE INVENTION:
Process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving
2. APPLICANT:
(a) NAME : SHAH SHAILESH KANTILAL
(b) NATIONALITY : INDIAN
(c) ADDRESS : B 303 Dream World Residency,
RCC Canal Road, Vesu,
Surat-300110 Gujarat, India
3. PREAMBLE TO THE DESCRIPTION
COMPLETE
The following specification particularly describes the invention and the manner in which it is to be performed

TITLE OF THE INVENTION:
Process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving
FIELD OF THE INVENTION:
The present invention relates to the field of manufacturing of designer Kasab and chemical cutwork fabric using special kind of thread which includes kasab and thread and weaving on Rapier machines and a different kind of weft insertion process.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION:
Since the stone age, man has sought various methods to protect himself which include covering himself with leaves to protect himself from heat, cold and rain. Gradually with the development of mankind, they started covering their body with leather and then wool. Cloth was made much later to cover the human body. Initially clothes were made by hand but with further development, the textile industry developed which involves weaving of cloth on looms.
A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres often referred to as thread or yarn. Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, or other material to produce long strands. Textiles are formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together.
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, they are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, covering for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, they are used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, handkerchiefs, cleaning rags,

transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes, in addition to strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles. Children can learn using textiles to make collages, sew, quilt, and toys.
Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, nonwovens, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods like garments etc. Today fabric is available in a number of varieties which include contemporary natural fabrics like cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton as well as synthetic fabrics like nylon, polyester etc.
Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads called the warp with a set of crossing threads called the weft. This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanised. The process of weaving and the types of looms have also developed with the developing world.
US Patent 6725886 describes a process for presenting weft yarns on a rapier weaving machine which have (1). (2) to two (or more) rapiers provided above one another of a weaving machine, comprising two yarn carriers (14), which are movable between a receiving position, in which each yarn carrier (14) is able to receive a respective weft yarn (1), (2) to carry along this yarn, and a presenting position in which each yarn carrier (14) is able to present a weft yarn (1), (2) carried along to a respective rapier in order to insert this yarn into a shed. The presenting arms (3), (4) are rotatable above one another in respective intersecting planes of movement. Preferably, the upper presenting arm (3) is rotatable in a horizontal plane of movement, while the lower presenting arm (4) is rotatable in a plane of movement that is inclined downwards in the direction of the presenting position. With a similar presenting device the weft yarns can be taken

up very close to the fell of the fabric and cut through, waste selvedges becoming unnecessary and weft yarns can be saved. This device functions well at high weaving machine speeds. US Patent 6315007 discusses high speed three-dimensional weaving method and machine for high speed formation of a three-dimensional woven fiber structure having at least two warp yarn systems having approximately zero crimp and at least three filling yarns having approximately zero crimp, wherein the warp and filling yarns are non-interlacing with each other, and are secured as an integral fabric via at least one vertical or Z yarn system and the warp yarn systems provided to be positioned via harness frames. The 3-D woven fabric of the present invention is fabricated on a 3-D weaving machine having rapier filling insertion that provides filling yarn insertions in unique shed openings in series to produce a complete filling insertion cycle for every movement of Z-direction yarn harnesses.
US Patent 5542269discloses a three-bar warp knitted fabric whose technical back has both a satin-like surface and a walewise ribbed effect is produced on a three-bar warp knitting machine by knitting ground yarns on the machine's middle bar to provide structural and dimensional integrity to the fabric, knitting satin-effect yarns on the machine's top bar in extended underlaps to produce a satin-like technical back of the fabric, and inlaying elastic yarns from the machine's bottom bar in a two-in, one-out alternating pattern to create the appearance of walewise ribs in the satin-like technical back surface.
US Patent 4854135 describes an antique satin weft inserted warp knit drapery fabric wherein a dry cleanable self-lined unfinished lustrous antique satin fabric having good hand, good crease resistance, and a woven look is provided. The fabric is a weft inserted warp knit (wiwk) fabric which has a multiple substrate, a single substrate with foam backing, or a single substrate with an additional sewn lining. The weft yarn is on the face of the substrate, and is a lustrous yam such

as rayon (as when producing non-washable draperies), or acrylic, bright polyester or acetate (as when producing washable draperies). The weft has a density equivalent to between about 36-52 single picks per inch, and at least part of the weft may comprise a novelty yarn. The warp yarn is stitching yarn, in a tricot stitch configuration. The warp yarn is a low-shrinkage filament yarn that is not fully oriented, and has a denier of between about 20-60, and an elongation of at least 15 percent. Non-woven inexpensive polyester substrate may be utilized; if a single layer is utilized it has a maximum weight of 2.0 ounces per square yard, and if a multiple substrate is utilized each layer has a maximum weight of between about 0.5-1.0 ounces per square yard. US Patent Application 20080052884 describes a method of forming a fabric which includes the step of providing a plurality of yarn and batching the yarn on an A-frame so that the fabric is formed with a width greater than 102 inches and with a twill weave with a satin face. Also included is the step of passing the fabric across a plurality of rolls that have a rough surface and that apply compression to the fabric. The steps of applying fabric to a tenter frame and heating of the fabric is also included. The present invention also provides for a fabric in certain exemplary embodiments.
EP 1876273 discusses Rapier, method of manufacturing same, device for inserting weft yarns comprising such a rapier and loom equipped with such a device in which the weft-insertion lance for weaving loom, comprises a flexible part, a claw (111) for fixing the weft yarn, and immobilization units (115, 116) for exerting a pinching effort of each strap in a corresponding housing. The claw is fixed on an end (1121) of the flexible part. The end comprises a longitudinal slit (1122) in which a reinforcement is immobilized. The reinforcement has the reception housing of strap for mounting the claw. The immobilization unit comprises a screw adapted to cooperate with a thread mounted on a related nut on the end of the flexible part, and a

stud. The weft-insertion lance for weaving loom, comprises a flexible part, a claw (111) for fixing the weft yarn, and immobilization units (115, 116) for exerting a pinching effort of each strap in a corresponding housing. The claw is fixed on an end (1121) of the flexible part. The end comprises a longitudinal slit (1122) in which a reinforcement is immobilized. The reinforcement has the reception housing of strap for mounting the claw. The immobilization unit comprises a screw adapted to cooperate with a thread mounted on a related nut on the end of the flexible part, and a stud. The nut is immobilized on the end of the flexible part in rotation with an axis of thread. The nut transports against an external surface of the reinforcement, against the strap in place of the housing and on a portion of the end of the flexible part in support against the reinforcement, when the screw is tight in the thread. The thread is produced in a portion of the end of the flexible part. Independent claims are included for: (1) an insertion device; (2) a loom; and (3) a process for manufacturing a loom.
JP10018178 discloses the production of silver thread and production of gold thread in which the requirement is to industrially obtain an endless silver thread through a simple treatment process by providing the surface of a synthetic fiber monofilament with silver coating film by chemical plating, and to obtain a gold thread by providing the surface of the above silver thread with a gold coating film using a golden dye. For this the surface of a synthetic fiber monofilament 50m to 1mm in diameter is provided with silver coating film by chemical plating of metallic silver to obtain the objective silver thread with high-degree metallic silver gloss. Next, the surface of the silver coating film on the silver thread is provided with golden coating film using a coating material formulated with a golden dye, thus obtaining the other objective gold thread with brilliant color tone unique to golden color.

JP 11279940 relates to opal processing of polyester-based textile fabric with clear pattern of burnt-out printed portions using a burnt-out solution with a molar concentration lower than those of conventional alkali components, by printing a polyester-based textile fabric with a burnt-out solution containing tetramethylammomum hydroxide followed by heat treatment of the textile fabric and then washing it with water. This opal processed product is obtained by the following procedure: a polyester-based textile fabric is printed with a burnt-out solution containing, as the alkali component, tetramethylammonium hydroxide as great as about 2.5 times higher in polyester-based decomposition rate than sodium hydroxide at equal alkali molar concentration, and the resulting textile fabric is subsequently moist or dry heat treated to effect decomposition of part or the whole of the polyester-based fibers as the above-printed portions and the decomposed part is then removed by washing with water.
CN102953202 relates to an imitated silk burnt-out fabric formed by interweaving synthetic polyester fibers. The imitated silk burnt-out fabric comprises a burnt-out fabric body (1), warps and wefts are interwoven to form the burnt-out fabric body (1) and are the synthetic polyester fibers, and embroidered layers (2) are locally arranged on the surface of the burnt-out fabric body (1). Patterns are vivid after the burnt-out fabric is embroidered, and the elegant and poised appearance of the imitated silk burnt-out fabric is highlighted. Besides, the polyester fibers are high in resilience, good in post-processing performance and quite suitable to be used as materials for imitated silk fibers, and the fabric formed by interweaving the synthetic polyester fibers feels similar to a silk fabric in the aspect of texture. In addition, the imitated silk burnt-out fabric is light, thin, soft and breathable, is good in natural drape effect and skin-friendly impression, and has the advantages of coolness, breathability and high moisture absorption.

CN202116773 provides multifunctional single-covered metallic yarn, which comprises a nylon yarn and a metallic yarn piece. The nylon yarn is wound on the metallic yarn piece, and knots are arranged on the metallic yarn piece. The multifunctional single-covered metallic yarn in the structure is reasonable in design, thin and soft, the knots on the metallic yarn piece at intervals highlight the metallic yarn, and the multifunctional single-covered metallic yarn is attractive, unique, fine in decorative effect and the like.
As seen in the prior art, a wide range of fabrics produced by different methods are available today. Recently, brasso fabric has become very popular and is much in demand. In this fabric the layers are burned to form the design which leads to the creation of dramatic effects and colours that are not possible with simple dye methods. So brasso fabric is also known as burnt-out or burned-out fabric. This brasso fabric is often seen in beautiful Indian Sarees as well as traditional bridal gowns. Velvet brasso is commonly available while chiffon brasso fabric with various designs and multiple colours are available at special stores only. Soft, lightweight versions of Brasso are also used to make lounge wear and lingerie.
Various technologies are available to manufacture brasso fabric which mainly involves weaving two different kinds of fibers like cotton, polyester, nylon and polypropylene. Woven burnt out fabric is widely available in the market where threads are burnt through warp way. In case of woven burnt out fabric, the common weave adopted is satin/sateen and hence the yarn has long floats. When the burnt ends of the yarn at design edges become free for short lengths, they raise on the surface of the fabric or fold back. Due to this the design loses sharp edges or the appeal of it is subdued and for the same reason dusting problem is more in usage of woven burnt out fabric.

The conventional method of making Brasso fabric by using weaving technology has limitations such as,
• Burnt-out effect has less contrast and hence design produced gets subdued.
• Due to the presence of free ends for short lengths of effect yam at edges, caused due to the kind of weave adopted (satin/sateen) the edges of the design are not sharp.
• Dusting during handling, due to the fall of free fibers.
• Look of the designs not meeting the expectation of the designers and customers alike was a matter of great concern of the manufacturers.
Therefore, an improved process to overcome the above mentioned limitations involved in the manufacture of woven burnt out fabric is the need of the day.
OBJECT OF THE INVENTION:
The main object of the invention is to provide for a process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving.
Another object of the invention is to provide for a process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving on Rapier machine with double beam attachment and weft insertion.
Still another object of the invention is to provide for a process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric comprising kasab and cotton / polyester / viscose.
Yet another object of the invention is to provide for a process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric which can be made with variable denier of kasab and jari film.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION:
The present invention is a process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving on Rapier machine with double beam and weft insertion. The material used for the fabric is selected from twisted yarn and kasab wherein twisteti yarn is polyester mixed with cotton while kasab is jari mixed with polyester yarn. In this process the yarn which is polyester, cotton and/or kasab is subjected to warping, weaving, scouring, bleaching, neutralizing, polyester dyeing, cotton dyeing, heat setting, printing, drying, curing, looping, ageing, crushing, washing and drying to finally form the burnt-out i.e. brasso fabric. The brasso fabric manufactured by the above process undergoes value addition process depending upon the need of the design.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS:
Fig. 1 displays the flow chart depicting the steps involved in the process.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION:
The nature of the invention and the manner in which it is performed is clearly described in the specification. The invention has various components and they are clearly described in the detailed description.
Brasso fabric is a unique type of fabric in which the layers are burnt to form the design creating dramatic effects and colours. This fabric is often seen in beautiful Indian sarees. The chiffon brasso fabrics have a flattering drape that is well suited to sarees. The vibrant colors and special effects of this fabric also compliment traditional sarees' styles. Apart from sarees, the brasso fabric is also commonly used in other ladies garments like bridal gowns, dress materials

as well as the softer and lightweight versions of brasso are also used to make lounge wear and lingerie.
The present invention describes a process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric comprising polyester, polyester cotton covering and kasab yarns prepared by a process of rapier weaving with Double Beam and Weft Insertion. The cutwork fabric produced by this process is very clear and attractive and the chemical cutwork area makes it attractive to the customer. The fabric thus produced is of higher quality in terms of design and material.
The present invention uses a process of weaving on rapier machine with double beam and weft insertion to produce the base fabric which is used for creating the cutwork fabric. The process of the present invention can be performed on Rapier weaving machines, waterjet machines as well as conventional looms. The material used to make the fabric may be selected from twisted yarn and Kasab. The twisted yarn is made of polyester mixed with cotton while Kasab is mixed with jari and polyester yarn. In the present invention the ratio of polyester to cotton is preferably 65:35. The weight of the fabric is approximately 91 grams/meter which is ' woven by double beam. The number of ends/inch is kept at 84. However, the same may vary as per the requirement. The machine runs at a speed of 180 rpm to achieve the desired cutwork fabric.
The process of the present invention involves a number of steps which have been displayed in the flow-chart described in Fig. 1. These steps include warping of the yarn which is polyester, cotton and/or kasab followed by weaving followed by chemical processing which includes scouring, bleaching, neutralizing, polyester dyeing, cotton dyeing, heat setting, printing, drying, curing, looping, ageing, crushing, washing and drying to finally form the burnt-out i.e. brasso fabric. Each of these steps are elaborated below:

1. Yarn: The development of the warp yarn (kasab) is different from the traditionally
available kasab yarn which has 75 denier bright yarn with 0 Twist per meter (TPM). The
yarn of this invention has warp kasab yarn having 40 denier bright polyester yarn with
2450 Twist per meter (TPM).The golden jari film has a thickness of 12 Micron and is cut
in the size of 0.303 mm. The prepared yarn and jari thread is passed through the Hollow
Spindle covering machines and gets twisted with a spindle speed of 6500 RPM. After this
the Kasab rolls are heated at a temperature of 70° for 1 hour for smooth weaving. This
Kasab is ready for use and is rolled out on the cone with the resultant denier of 105. The
kasab on cone is totally knotless.
In the second yarn (weft) which is the mono cotton covering yarn, the cotton yarn is twisted with the mono and / or colour yarn. 20 denier of polyester mono or colour yarn are taken with 40's count of cotton yarn and the doubling process is done.
2. Warping: It is a process where yarns are wound in parallel, as per the required number and length, on to double flanged beams or on to flangeless beams depending on the requirement of the warping process. The number of yarns depends on several factors of the rapier weaving machine including the width of the fabric.
3. Weaving: The principle of weaving is interlacement of warp and weft. It is for Rapier weaving machines only. In the weaving process two warp beams are used. One beam carries the Kasab yarn while the other beam carries the polyester yarn. In this process the sequence of the warp sheet is in the order of one polyester and other Kasab yarn in a repeated manner. Other part is weft insertion for which one polyester and other mono and / or colour cotton is used as covering yarn in sequence. The density of warp is 84 ends per inch and weft is 100 picks per inch. The width of the fabric is 48 inches reed.

4. Chemical Processing: Chemical processing is the process in which burnt-out effect is created. However the fabric has to pass through several processes for creating this effect.
a. Scouring and Bleaching: It is done on a jet dyeing machine or jiger machine or
winch machine at 90°C for 60 minutes. The chemicals used are, desizing chemical
- 0.5 g/1. stain remover - 0.5 g/1, Optical whitening agent - 0.01 g/1, non ionic
detergent - 0.25 g/1.
b. Neutralizing: The fabric is then neutralized to remove the effect of the chemicals
present in the fabric by treating with 98% acetic acid - 0.5g/l at 90°C for 30 min.
c. Polyester Dyeing: The fabric is dyed to the required shade in a jet dyeing
machine or jiger machine or winch machine. The disperse dye is taken in quantity
as per the shade and is dyed in the presence of 98% acetic acid - 1.0 g/1 and
leveling agent - 0.25 g/1. The fabric is dyed for 45 min at a temperature of 90°C
for lighter shade, for darker shade in polyester padding method is to be applied.
d. Cotton Dyeing: Cotton fiber is dyed in a jiger machine. The dye bath contains
Procian dye as per the shade of the colour along with common salt - 3 g/1 and
soda ash - 1.0 g/1. The fabric is treated for 60 min at 60°C.
e. Heat Setting: The fabric is heat set on a stenter at 150°C at a speed of 40mt/min.
f. Printing: Printing is the process where the cotton fiber is burnt to create the
special effect. There are various types of printing that depend on the type of fiber
used and also on the type of effects to be created. In the present case cut out by
aluminium sulphate is done for cotton fiber printing (sodium bisulphate can also
be used like acid liberating agent).

g. Drying: The fabric is dried by steam so that the printed paste gets dried and does
not spread outside the printed area, h. Curing - This is the process where fabric is exposed to steam for longer time by
running the fabric at 20m/min speed on a stenter. This helps in fixing the printed
material on the fabric. i. Looping - A process for fixation of color discharge done at printing.
j. Ageing: It is a steaming process in which the printed material is seasoned on the
surface of the fabric.
k. Crushing: It is the process where the fabric is crushed thoroughly to liberate the
burnt-out cotton fibers from the grip of other yarn, polyester yarn so that during
washing the fibers are removed easily.
1. Washing: The burnt-out cotton fibers are removed from the surface of the fabric
and from the grips of warp & weft coverings. The cotton fiber remains at places
where chemicals are not printed and at printed places the cotton fibers are washed
out.
All the steps of the process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric
by weaving have been described in the above description. The basic fabric required for burnt-out
(brasso) is manufactured by using the rapier weaving machines. The present invention involves
the use of Rapier weaving machine in which the warp yarn used is of polyester and kasab. Apart
from this other yarns like nylon, polypropylene, modal, silk, etc. can also be used to achieve the
effect of the present invention. In the weft yarn, doubling of polyester is done with cotton yarn
which can be replaced by other yarns like nylon, propylene, modal, silk etc. to achieve the effect
of the present invention. The yarn used in the present invention can also be reversed i.e. kasab

can be used in weft instead of warp to get the desired look. It can be made as plain, dobby, jacquard or knitting as per the designer's requirement. The reed used is of 84 count. However it can be replaced by any other reed. During weaving, two warp beams are used in parallel among which one is polyester and other is kasab yarn. These yarns may wary in colour which can be picked from gold, silver or any other colour. Although during weaving, the weft mentioned is of 100 picks/inch, this number can vary as per the requirement. Similarly, although the preferred ratio of polyester to cotton is 65:35, this ratio can vary depending upon the kind of fabric required. In this process the speed of the rapier machine is kept at 180 rpm. The polyester yarn used is of 30 denier - 1000 TPM which may be textured polyester or of any other type of any denier as per the designer's requirement. The cotton yarn preferably used is of 40's which can be also of any other count or any yarn which can be dissolved in different chemicals.
This way the present invention produces the special effect product which is known as the burnt-out fabric or the brasso fabric (Indian name) which is manufactured through rapier weaving machines. This fabric can be manufactured in a variety of colours of different shades, different designs and effects. This brasso fabric made according to the process of the present invention may be exposed to value addition process to improve the looks and quality of the fabric. The value addition process depends upon the need of the design. This process includes printing with various colors, gold or silver effect printing, embroidering, kasab, jari, cationic dyeable yarns or combination of various yarns and any other special effects which are added to basic ground fabric.
The brasso fabric manufactured by the process of the present invention has many advantages compared to the conventionally made woven brasso fabric.

• The process of the present invention gives excellent burn-out effect which has a clean chemical cutwork area with better contrast. This process gives scope for better designs on fabrics as the fabric can produce thin lines, sharp edges, excellent curves or circles and other such delicate designs. This is because the cotton covered polyester strongly and minutely holds the effect of the yarn at unburnt-out areas.
• The process of the present invention gives an excellent fabric for any kind of value addition. The places in the fabric where both the yarns are present are used for value additions like color printing, embroidery, jari work, metalized prints, kasab, etc. For such value addition work the fabric should be more stable and the effect yarn should be held more strongly up to the edges of designs. Hence kasab cutwork brasso suits much better for value additions.
• The kasab cutwork structure of the present invention has better rupture resistance than woven fabrics and hence more suitable for various applications. In the present invention warp kasab is used which helps in making different designer clothes and brasso fabric.
• In the brasso fabric made by the present invention, dust problem during handling is totally eliminated while it is a major problem with regular brasso. Especially during process like embroidering the dust problem is very severe and no worker likes to work on such fabrics. Since viscose is the most commonly used effect yarn its dust carries cellulose and its continuous inhalation is hazardous which is eliminated in the fabric produced by the present invention.
• The fabric made from the present invention is more crispy and has better drape or graceful fall, a property that counts in a lot at applications like sarees, curtains, etc.

• Adding more aesthetic values is easier in kasab cutwork brasso by using various kinds of yarns and chemical process at burnt-out areas as also at effect yarn areas. The structures like twill, ribs, satin at non burnout areas add more design effect to fabric. Such effects are not possible in woven brasso fabrics.
• The present invention is highlighting use of kasab yarn in various ways of brasso fabric & it can give designer effect in plain fabrics as well by removing chemical cutwork process.
Thus the present invention is highly advantageous and eliminates the limitations observed in the woven brasso fabric like those of dusting, lesser contrast, blunt edges of designs and designs not appealing to masses.
Although the preferred embodiment as well as the method and use have been specifically described in the description, it should be understood that variations in the preferred embodiment could be achieved by a person skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention. The invention has been described with reference to specific embodiment which is merely illustrative and not intended to limit the scope of the invention as defined in the claims.

I claim,
1. A process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving wherein the weaving is done on Rapier machine with double beam and weft insertion to produce the base fabric which is used for creating the cutwork fabric wherein the material used to make the fabric may be selected from twisted yarn and Kasab in which the twisted yarn is made of polyester mixed with cotton, viscose or cationic while Kasab is made with jari and polyester yarn.
2. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 1 wherein waterjet machines as well as conventional looms can also be used to manufacture the fabric.
3. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 1 wherein the ratio of polyester to cotton is preferably 65:35 which can be varied as per the fabric requirement and the weight of the fabric is about 91 grams/meter which is woven by double beam in which the number of ends/inch is kept at 84 which can be varied as per the requirement.
4. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 3 wherein the machine runs at a speed of 180 rpm to achieve the desired cutwork fabric.
5. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 1 wherein the manufacturing of the fabric includes warping of the yarn which is polyester, cotton and kasab followed by weaving followed by chemical processing which includes scouring, bleaching, neutralizing, polyester dyeing, cotton

dyeing, heat setting, printing, drying, curing, looping, ageing, crushing, washing and drying to finally form the burnt-out brasso fabric.
6. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 5 wherein the yarn is warp kasab yarn having preferably 40 denier, whose denier can be varied as per the requirement, bright or any other luster, polyester yarn with 2450 Twist per meter, while the Golden, Silver, Rainbow or any other colour in jari film has a thickness of 12 Micron and is cut in the size of 0.303 mm wherein the thickness, size and Twists per meter can be changed according to designers' requirement.
7. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 6 wherein the prepared yarn and jari thread is passed through the Hollow Spindle covering machines and gets twisted with a spindle speed of 6500 RPM after which the Kasab rolls are heated at a temperature of 70° for 1 hour for smooth weaving, making the Kasab ready for use which is rolled out on the cone with the resultant denier of 105, which can be varied as per the requirement, wherein the kasab on cone is totally knotless.
8. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 5 wherein the kasab is subject to warping process in which the yarns are wound in parallel, as per the required number and length, on to double flanged beams or on to flangeless beams depending on the requirement of the warping process wherein the number of yarns depends on several factors of the rapier weaving machine including the width of the fabric.
9. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 5 wherein in the weaving process one beam carries the kasab yarn while

the other beam carries the polyester yarn or any other yarn in which the sequence of the warp sheet is in the order of one polyester and other Kasab yarn in a repeated manner while the other part is weft insertion for which one polyester yarn or any other yarn and other mono and or colour cotton yarn or any other yarn is used as covering yarn in sequence producing a warp of density 84 ends per inch and weft 100 picks per inch while the width of the fabric is 48 inches reed, all of which can be varied as per the requirement of the fabric.
10. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 9 wherein the polyester yarn used is of 30 denier - 1000 Twists per meter which may be textured polyester or of any other type while the cotton yarn, or any other yarn, preferably used is of 40's which can be also of any other count or any yarn which can be dissolved in different chemicals.
11. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 10 wherein the yarn used in the process can also be reversed such that kasab can be used in weft instead of warp to get the desired look.
12. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 5 wherein the chemical processing needed to create the burnt-out effect involves the following steps:
(i) scouring and bleaching of the fabric which is done on a jet dyeing machine or jiger machine or winch machine at 90°C for 60 minutes in which the chemicals used are, desizing chemical - 0.5 g/1. stain remover - 0.5 g/1. Optical whitening agent - 0.01 g/1, non ionic detergent - 0.25 g/1;

(ii) neutralizing of the fabric to remove the effect of the chemicals present in the
fabric by treating with 98% acetic acid - 0.5g/l at 110°C for 30 min; (iii) polyester dyeing of the fabric to the required shade in a jet dyeing machine
wherein the disperse dye is taken in quantity as per the shade and is dyed in the
presence of 98% acetic acid - 1.0 g/1 and leveling agent - 0.25 g/1 for 45 min at a
temperature of 115 C; (iv) cotton dyeing in a jigger machine in which the dye bath contains Procian dye as
per the shade of the colour along with common salt - 3 g/1 and soda ash - 1.0 g/1
wherein the fabric is treated for 60 min at 60 C; (v) heat setting of the fabric again on a stenter at 175°C at a speed of 40m/min; (vi) printing, wherein cut out by aluminium sulphate or sodium bisulphate is done for
cotton fiber printing; (vii) drying by dry heat steam so that the printed paste gets dried and does not spread
outside the printed area; (viii) curing of the fabric wherein the fabric is exposed to steam for longer time by
running the fabric at 20m/min speed on a stenter which helps in fixing the printed
material on the fabric; (ix) looping of the fabric for fixation of color discharge done at printing; (x) ageing of the fabric which is a steaming process in which the printed material is
seasoned on the surface of the fabric; (xi) crushing of the fabric wherein the fabric is crushed thoroughly to liberate the
burnt-out viscose fibers from the grip of other yarn, polyester yarn so that during
washing the fibers are removed easily; and

(xii) washing of the fabric wherein the burnt-out cotton fibers are removed from the surface of the fabric and from the grips of warp & weft coverings and the cotton fiber remains at places where chemicals are not printed and are washed out at printed places.
13. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 12 wherein the burnt-out fabric manufactured may be exposed to value addition process to improve the looks and quality of the fabric which depends upon the need of the design.
14. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 13 wherein the value addition process includes printing with various colours, gold or silver effect printing, embroidering, kasab, jari, cationic dyeable yarns or combination of various yarns and any other special effects which are added to basic burnt-out fabric.
15. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving as claimed in claim 14 wherein the final product can be changed by changing the yarn, twist, denier, colour of kasab, proportion of combination of different yarns, weave which may be plain, dobby, jacquard or knitting to achieve designers' expectations.
16. The process of manufacturing designer kasab and chemical cutwork fabric by weaving substantially herein described with reference to the foregoing description and flow-chart.