Rosy-look cosmetic composition
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for
caring for the skin, which is capable of giving it a uniform pink complexion while at the
same time hiding skin imperfections, in the absence of dyestuffs.
A composition according to the invention is especially intended to be applied
to the skin, in particular facial skin.
It is common for people with dyschromia, for instance pigmentation marks,
couperosis or shadows on the skin, especially on the face, to wish to eliminate these skin
defects.
In order to obtain immediate covering, "interference" pigments have already
been used, i.e. pigments that are capable of affording a coloured effect that differs
according to the angle of observation. Unfortunately, these interference pigments are
generally used under conditions such that the corresponding cosmetic composition affords
a coloured effect and/or covering effect that is too imperfect, producing an unnatural
metallic aspect and also an excessively coloured reflection effect, which mask the natural
appearance of the skin. Such compositions are especially described in documents WO
01/51017 and US 5 690 916.
Consequently, there is a need for a cosmetic composition that can reduce the
visibility of skin defects to homogenize the aesthetic appearance of the skin while at the
same time preserving the natural complexion of the skin in terms of colour and/or gloss.
Furthermore, besides looking for an immediate covering effect, consumers are
also looking to obtain a radiant complexion and a healthy countenance, which may be
achieved via a slight increase in the red component of the skin colour, which is reflected
by a "rosy look".
To these ends, it is known practice to use covering dye products and also
interference pigments or dyes. However, as indicated previously, the use of such
compounds affords an imperfect coloured effect and also an unnatural metallic aspect that
have the major drawback of masking the natural appearance of the skin.
There is thus a need for cosmetic compositions that can afford homogenizing
coverage of skin dyschromia defects, giving the skin a radiant complexion and a healthy
countenance, while at the same time conserving its natural appearance, and doing so in the
absence of dyestuffs.
Contrary to all expectation, the inventors have discovered a means for giving
cosmetic compositions an ability to satisfy all of these objectives in the absence of
dyestuffs.
Thus, according to one of its first aspects, a subject of the invention is a
cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, from 0.1% to
4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one white pigment
and from 0 .1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least
one white nacre, the said composition being free of additional dyestuffs.
Such a composition is especially intended to give skin onto which it is applied
a uniform rosy complexion while at the same time hiding skin imperfections, giving the
skin a natural appearance.
The inventors have observed, unexpectedly, that the particular combination of
a white pigment with a white nacre makes it possible, in the absence of any dyestuff, to
improve the appearance of the skin, in particular by attenuating skin imperfections, marks
and acne scars, and restoring radiance to the skin, in particular dull, ashen or dark skin.
Furthermore, despite their properties indicated above, the compositions
according to the invention allow the skin to conserve a natural appearance, due especially
to the absence of dyestuffs.
The present invention also has the advantage in that all of these properties are
obtained immediately after applying the composition to the skin.
A subject of the present invention is thus also a process for giving skin, and
especially facial skin, a uniform rosy complexion while at the same time hiding skin
imperfections, and giving the skin a natural appearance, which consists in applying at least
one coat of a composition in accordance with the invention to the targeted skin surface, in
particular of facial skin.
White pigments
A composition according to the invention comprises at least one white
pigment.
For the purposes of the present invention, such pigments are not interference
pigments.
The particular pigment(s) used in a composition according to the invention
denote a mineral or organic particle, which is insoluble in an aqueous solution, the said
particle being white, coated or uncoated, spherical or non-spherical, and porous or nonporous.
Thus, a pigment according to the invention may be chosen from titanium
dioxide, zinc oxide, mica, guanine, sericite, talc, kaolin, corn starch esterified with
octenylsuccinic anhydride, and an aluminium salt (such as the product sold under the
name Dry Flo Plus from National Starch (INCI name: Aluminium Starch
Octenylsuccinate).
A white pigment preferentially used according to the invention is titanium
dioxide, which may especially be in rutile or anatase form and may be coated or uncoated,
on condition, however, that it conserves the properties for which it is used in the present
patent application.
The pigments according to the invention may thus be formed from a substrate,
chosen especially from the list of pigments mentioned above, preferably titanium dioxide,
which is covered with one or more coating layers of a compound chosen from
polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), alumina, silica, trimethylolpropane, or even a combination
of these compounds.
Pigments in accordance with the invention advantageously have a refractive
index of greater than or equal to 1.6, preferably greater than or equal to 1.8, preferentially
ranging from 1.6 to 2.5.
A pigment in accordance with the invention may have a volumetric size of less
than 30 mih and preferably less than 15 mih.
Preferentially, a pigment in accordance with the invention may have a
volumetric size of between 500 nm and 30 mih and especially between 1 mih and 15 mih.
In particular, the said pigments are advantageously in the form of a white
powder.
As white pigments that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be
made of the pigment sold under the name Hombitan FF Pharma by the company
Sachtleben, which consists of titanium dioxide, and the product sold under the reference
SA-TAO-77891 by Miyoshi Kasei, which consists of a titanium dioxide (Ti0 2) coated
with polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). Mention may also be made of Ti0 2 surface-treated
with alumina/silica/trimethylolpropane, sold under the reference Tipaque PF671 from
Ishihara Sangyo.
The white pigment is present in a composition of the invention in a content of
between 0.1% and 4% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
Colorimetric definition of a white pigment according to the invention
The colorimetric measurements of the luminance (L*) and saturation (c*) of a
pigment in the CIE Lab 1976 colorimetric space may be performed using a CR400®
colorimetric chromameter from Minolta.
To do this, the pigment is first dispersed in the following cosmetic support:
weight %relative to the total weight of
Compounds
the composition
Sodium hydroxide 0.1
Tetrasodium salt of
0.2
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid
Preservative 0.75
Benzyl alcohol 0.5
Liquid petroleum jelly 0.5
Capric/caprylic acid triglycerides (70/30 C8-
Cio triglycerides - Dub MCT 7030 from 3.5
Stearineries Dubois)
Cetyl alcohol 0.5
Fragrance 0.3
Carboxyvinyl polymer (Carbopol 980
0.2
Polymer from Lubrizol)
Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid
partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia
0.4
and highly crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS®
from Clariant)
Polydimethylsiloxane 10 cSt 4
Mixture of a,w-dihydroxylated
polydimethylsiloxane/polydimethylsiloxane
1
5 cSt (Dow Corning 1503 Fluid from Dow
Corning)
Glycerol 7
Stearic acid 1.5
Mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100
1.5
stearate (Arlacel® 165 FL from Uniqema)
Monopotassium monocetyl phosphate 0.3
Water qs 100
and in a percentage that can give the said medium opacity (for example 5% by weight of
pigments relative to the total weight of the composition obtained)
and the pigment dispersion is then introduced into a jar with a volume of 15 ml (aperture
diameter: 1.9 cm; depth: 1.8 cm). The surface of the said cosmetic medium introduced is
smoothed off by levelling with a glass slide. The colorimeter cell is then placed in contact
with this surface and the colorimetric parameters are determined.
The CR400® colorimetric chromameter is calibrated with, on the one hand, a
white reference (white calibration tile of the Spectralon type) on values of lightness L* =
100 and saturation c* = 0, and, on the other hand, a light trap.
According to one preferred mode, the white pigments according to the
invention will especially have values of L* greater than or equal to 95 and of c* less than
or equal to 3, according to the protocol described previously.
White nacres
Besides a white pigment as indicated previously, a cosmetic composition in
accordance with the invention also comprises at least one white nacre.
The term "nacre" denotes particles in the form of a plurality of fine platelets
with a high refractive index, which each partially reflect and transmit the incident light,
these particles also being known as "interference pigments".
The term "white nacre" thus means an interference pigment with a white tint.
These white interference pigments are different from interference pigments
with a coloured tint, especially such as the Timiron Silk Blue mica/titanium dioxide/tin
oxide nacres with a blue tint.
The nacres according to the invention may be chosen from composite particles
based on a monolayer or multilayer, natural or synthetic mica substrate, preferably a
synthetic substrate (fluorophlogopite), totally or partially coated with one or more layers
of metal oxide, chosen especially from titanium dioxide and tin oxide, or both.
White nacres according to the invention are advantageously characterized by a
volumetric size of between 1 m and 50 m and preferably between 1 m and 20 m .
The nacres Sunshine Fine White C80-C3100 sold by the company Sun or the
nacres sold by the company Eckart under the name Syncrystal Silver are most particularly
suitable for use in the invention.
Bismuth oxychloride may also be used as white nacre in accordance with the
invention.
A nacre in accordance with the invention may thus be chosen from
fluorophlogopite-based coated particles, preferably coated with titanium dioxide or with
tin oxide, or with these two oxides, preferentially with titanium dioxide and tin oxide, and
bismuth oxychloride.
According to a preferred embodiment, a nacre in accordance with the
invention may thus be chosen from fluorophlogopite-based coated particles, preferably
coated with titanium dioxide, preferentially coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide.
The white nacre is present in a composition of the invention in a content of
between 0.1% and 4% by weight and preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight relative
to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention
comprises as white pigment at least titanium dioxide, which is coated or uncoated, and at
least one white nacre as defined previously.
According to one embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention
comprises as white pigment at least titanium dioxide, which is coated or uncoated, and
fluorophlogopite coated with titanium dioxide.
According to one embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention
comprises titanium dioxide coated with PDMS and fluorophlogopite coated with titanium
dioxide.
According to one embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention
comprises titanium dioxide coated with PDMS and fluorophlogopite coated with titanium
dioxide and tin oxide.
According to a preferred embodiment, a composition in accordance with the
invention comprises titanium dioxide coated with PDMS, fluorophlogopite coated with
titanium dioxide and fluorophlogopite coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide.
Colorimetric definition of a white nacre according to the invention
The colorimetric measurements of the luminance (L*) and the saturation (c*)
of a nacre in the CIE Lab 1976 colorimetric space are measured according to a protocol
identical to that presented previously for these same measurements with regard to the
pigments.
Composition according to the invention
A composition of the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a
medium that is particularly suitable for applying a product of the invention to keratin
materials, especially the skin and more particularly facial skin.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of
the support onto which the product is to be applied, and also to the aspect in which the
composition is to be conditioned.
As indicated previously, an essential characteristic of the compositions
according to the invention is that they are free of additional dyestuffs, other than the
pigments and white nacres as described previously.
The term "free of dyestuffs" means that a composition according to the
invention may comprise dyestuffs in a very small amount, namely less than 0.1% by
weight, or even less than 0.01% by weight, preferably less than 0.001% by weight and
even better still less than 0.0005% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
In other words, the presence of this small amount of dyestuffs may possibly
colour the compositions according to the invention in their bulk, but does not colour the
deposit that remains after application of the composition to the skin.
For the purposes of the invention, a dyestuff is a material that is not white, i.e.,
as indicated previously, that has any value of L* and of c* in the CIE 1976 colorimetric
space, with the exclusion of values of L* greater than or equal to 95 and simultaneously of
c* less than or equal to 3 .
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the
invention is free of additional pulverulent materials. These additional pulverulent
materials are particles other than the pigments and white nacres present in the composition
as described previously.
According to one variant of the invention, a composition according to the
invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, and in particular water, which may form
the continuous phase of the composition under consideration.
This aqueous phase may consist totally or partly of water, and preferentially
consists essentially of water.
A composition according to the invention may thus comprise a water content
of between 1% and 90% by weight of water, preferably greater than 50% by weight of
water, or even greater than 60% by weight of water and preferentially greater than 70% by
weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition according to the
invention has a water content of between 50% and 90% by weight of water, preferably
between 60% and 90% by weight of water and preferentially between 70% and 80% by
weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may also
consist of a mixture of water and of a water-miscible organic solvent, for instance lower
monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol or isopropanol, glycols
containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol,
1,3-butylene glycol or dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes, and
preferably a glycol containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably glycerol.
A composition according to the invention may also contain a fatty phase,
preferably a fatty phase dispersed in the continuous aqueous phase presented above, so as
to form an emulsion of oil-in-water or water-in-oil type, preferably an oil-in-water
emulsion.
An emulsion according to the invention may also be in the form of a multiple
emulsion, namely of water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type.
The fatty phase of a composition of the invention may especially comprise at
least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature and/or a fatty substance that is
solid at room temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances and gums, and mixtures
thereof.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "room temperature" means a
temperature equal to 25°C.
The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may especially
comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil or a mixture
thereof.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil that is
capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure.
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a
vapour pressure of less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa).
These volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone
oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly
containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or
phosphorus atoms.
Volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils
containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-Ci6 alkanes, for
instance C8-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance
isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane,
for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®, branched C8-Ci6
esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbonbased
oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell
Solt® by the company Shell, may also be used.
Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance
volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (8 c
10 6 m /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile
silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
The volatile oil may be present in a composition according to the invention in
a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, especially from 1% to 65% by weight and
in particular from 2% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides consisting of
fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from
C4 to C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated;
these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn
oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil,
palm oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil,
pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose
oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil
and musk rose oil; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as
those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ®
810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel,
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms,
- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as
petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane,
and mixtures thereof, preferably petroleum jelly,
- synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which Ri represents a
linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2
represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40
carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl
octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 -C15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate,
diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate,
alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene
glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;
polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched
and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for
instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol
or 2-undecylpentadecanol, and
- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and
mixtures thereof.
The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to
the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain,
the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates.
The non-volatile oils may be present in a composition according to the
invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 90% by weight, especially from 0.1% to
85% by weight and in particular from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
A composition according to the invention may also contain emulsifying and
co-emulsifying surfactants present especially in a proportion ranging from 0.1% to 30%
by weight and especially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
These surfactants may be chosen from anionic and nonionic surfactants.
Reference may be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume
22, pp. 333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the properties and
functions (emulsifying) of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this reference, for the
anionic and nonionic surfactants.
Care will especially have to be taken to ensure that the presence of these active
agents does not lead to coloration of the composition, and more particularly coloration of
the coat formed after applying the composition to the skin, especially facial skin.
Preferably, a composition according to the invention is in the form of an
emulsion, preferentially an oil-in-water emulsion.
The composition may also be a foundation to be applied to the face or the neck,
a concealer product or a skincare cream.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however,
being limiting in nature. Unless otherwise mentioned, the amounts indicated are expressed
as mass percentages.
Examples
1. Compositions according to the invention
Examples 1 to 5 : Cosmetic compositions according to the invention for facial
care in the form of oil-in-water emulsions
Fl F2 F3 F4 F5
Example 4 Example 5
Example 1 Example 2 Example 3
Ingredients (comparative (comparative
(invention) (invention) (invention)
) )
Sodium hydroxide 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 0.1%
Tetrasodium salt of
ethylenediaminetetra- 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2%
acetic acid
White pigment
Titanium dioxide
(Hombitan FF 1%
Pharma from
Sachtleben)
Disodium salt of
0.0002% 0.0002% 0.0002% 0.0002% 0.0002%
Ponceau SX (Red 7)
Quinoline yellow 0.00025% 0.00025% 0.00025% 0.00025% 0.00025%
White pigment
PDMS-coated
titanium dioxide (SA- 0.7% 0.7% 0.7% 0.7%
TAO-77891 from
Miyoshi Kasei)
Preservative 0.75% 0.75% 0.75% 0.75% 0.75%
Benzyl alcohol 0.5% 1% 1% 0.5% 0.5%
Liquid petroleum
0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5%
jelly
Capric/caprylic acid 3.5% 3.5% 3.5% 3.5% 3.5%
triglycerides (70/30
C -Cio triglycerides -
Dub MCT 7030 from
Stearineries Dubois)
Cetyl alcohol 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5% 0.5%
Red nacre
Titanium dioxidemica-
tin oxide
1%
(58/41/1)
(Timiron Silk Rouge
from Merck)
White nacre
Fluorophlogopite
coated with titanium
dioxide 0.7% 1%
(Sunshine Fine White
(C80-3 100) from
Sun)
White nacre
Fluorophlogopite
coated with titanium
0.3% 1% 0.3%
dioxide and tin oxide
(Syncrystal Silver
from Eckart)
Fragrance 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3%
Carboxyvinyl polymer
(Carbopol 980
0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2%
Polymer from
Lubrizol)
Polyacrylamidomethyl
propanesulfonic acid 0.4% 0.4% 0.4% 0.4% 0.4%
partially neutralized
with aqueous
ammonia and highly
crosslinked
(Hostacerin AMPS®
from Clariant)
Polydimethylsiloxane
4% 4% 4% 4% 4%
l OcSt
a,w-Dihydroxylated
polydimethylsiloxane
/polydimethyl
siloxane mixture 5
1% 1% 1% 1% 1%
cSt;
Dow Corning 1503
Fluid from Dow
Corning
Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
Glycerol 7% 7% 7% 7% 7%
Stearic acid 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% 1.5%
Mixture of glyceryl
stearate and PEG- 100
stearate (Arlacel® 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% 1.5% 1.5%
165 FL from
Uniqema)
Monopotassium
0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3% 0.3%
monocetyl phosphate
Vitamin B3 3% 3% 3% 3% 3%
"qs" means "quantity su !cient for"
The presence of the disodium salt of Ponceau SX (Red 7) and of quinoline
yellow in small amounts colours the bulk of the composition slightly but does not leave a
visible colour on the skin after application of the composition.
2. Demonstration of the "rosy look" of the compositions according to the
invention
The compositions of Examples 1 to 5 were tested on the cheeks of 19 women
under the age of 60, having a phototype 2 or 3, in order to evaluate their efficacy on the
homogeneity of the skin complexion by Chromasphere.
These women, freed of makeup, wait in an air-conditioned waiting room
(22°C ± 2°C) for the 15 minutes preceding the start of the test.
These measurements are taken using Hitachi HV-F22F cameras and the
processing software Chromalys pro 1.6.2 in multiscale mode.
The parameters measured, before and after application of these compositions
to an amount of 2 mg of composition per cm2, i.e. 300 mg of composition per half-face,
are the luminance (L*), the green-red level (a*), the blue-yellow level (b*), the hue angle
(h), the saturation (c*) and the colour difference (DE 94).
For each woman, an image at a definition of 410 410 pixels of one of her
cheeks is taken using a Chromasphere, which makes it possible to measure the colour of
the face at TObefore application of the composition.
The 300 mg of composition are then weighed out in a watch glass and are
applied with the naked fingers to the cheek, or half-face, on which the measurement at TO
was taken. To after a drying time of 15 minutes, an image of the treated cheek is acquired
using the Chromasphere, which makes it possible to measure the colour of the skin just
after application of the product.
The differences in luminance, in chroma and in hue angle relative to the naked
skin at TO are then calculated and are given in the table below:
Examples Formulations D I_* Ac* Ah
1 (invention) Fl 2.07% -9.68% -3.80%
2 (invention) F2 2.22% -13.14% -5.07%
3 (invention) F3 1.38% -11.22% -3.49%
4
F4 0.97% -6.26% -2.61%
(comparative)
5
F5 0.88% -8.26% -5.03%
(comparative)
A decrease in the hue angle is interpreted as an increase in the rosy component
of the skin. Specifically, when represented in the planes a* and b*, the hue variations
obtained are reflected by a shift towards red in the CIE 1976 colorimetric space.
Thus, for formulations Fl to F3 not containing any red nacre, Ah decreases
more substantially than the Ah of formulation F4.
For example, in the context of the tests performed with the composition of
Example 1 (Formulation Fl), the following averages were measured:
With regard to Formulation 1, it is very clearly seen that the formulation falls
within the range of pink colours.
In conclusion, a significant and immediate effect was observed on the
homogeneity of the complexion and the covering of skin defects with the compositions of
formulations Fl, F2 and F3 in accordance with the invention.
This effect is significantly greater than that obtained with the composition of
formulation F4 not comprising white nacre in accordance with the invention.
Furthermore, the composition of formulation F5 comprising a red nacre gave a
very weak variation in the luminance of the skin (low AL of 0.88%), while at the same
time obviously affording it a red-pink colour, represented by the variation of the hue angle
Ah, which is quite similar to that imparted especially by the composition according to the
invention of formulation F2.
Moreover, the composition of Example 1 was evaluated by a panel of 130
women from 20 to 40 years old, who applied daily the care product to the face for one
week and evaluated the appearance of the skin imparted by the application of the product.
70% of these women observed a natural lightening effect (homogeneity of the
complexion) on the skin, without a white appearance.
25% of the women observed an insufficient lightening effect, which was not
white enough.
5% of the women observed an unnatural effect, since the appearance was too
white.
A large majority of the panel thus evaluated the performance of the care
product as imparting a homogeneity effect on the complexion with a conserved natural
appearance of the skin.
WO 2013/170478 PCT/CN2012/075714
CLAIMS
1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium,
from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one
white pigment and from 0.1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition, of at least one white nacre, the said composition being free of additional
dyestuffs.
2 . Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the said white
pigment has a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6, preferably greater than or
equal to 1.8, preferentially ranging from 1.6 to 2.5.
3 . Composition according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the said white pigment has a volumetric size of less than 30 m , preferably less than
15 m , preferentially between 500 nm and 30 mih and more preferentially between 1 mih
and 15 mih.
4 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the said white pigment is chosen from coated or uncoated titanium dioxide, especially
in rutile or anatase form.
5 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the said white pigment is present in the composition in a content between 0.5% and
3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the said white nacre is chosen from fluorophlogopite-based coated particles,
preferably coated with titanium dioxide or with tin oxide, or with these two oxides,
preferentially with titanium dioxide and tin oxide, and bismuth oxychloride.
WO 2013/170478 PCT/CN2012/075714
7 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the said white nacre has a volumetric size of between 1 mih and 50 mih and
preferentially between 1 mih and 20 mih.
8 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that the said white nacre is present in a content of between 0.5% and 3% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
9 . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that it is free of additional pulverulent materials.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in
that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
11. Process for giving skin a uniform rosy complexion while at the same time
hiding skin imperfections, and giving the skin a natural appearance, which consists in
applying at least one coat of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 10 to the
targeted skin surface.
12. Process according to Claim 11, characterized in that the said skin is facial
skin.