FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for skin care also suitable as a base for diverse skin care formulations/applications which in being free of fatty acid and soap yet advantageously provides for vanishing cream like sensorial properties that also possesses skin friendly pH. More particularly, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil preferably having melting point of at least of about 45°C, at least one solid inorganic particulate, at least one emulsifier and may optionally include fatty alcohol, skin care benefiting agents and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

There is an increasing demand nowadays for skin compatible cosmetic preparations with skin friendly pH sensorial properties equivalent to vanishing cream. The traditionally used vanishing cream contains high levels of stearic acid and alkaline metal soap as an emulsifier which is important to impart physical stability to the composition wherein the vanishing cream base is mostly preferred base by consumer living in hot, high humid climatic conditions. However the presence of soap increases the pH value of the composition which makes it alkaline. Such a composition is stable only under alkaline condition. On incorporation of acidic skin benefit agents to such compositions, the anionic soap gets neutralized to release stearic acid resulting in drop in pH, which consequently results in the physical instability of the composition.

In addition to the above the surfaces of human skin normally have pH in the range of 4.5-6.5. Upon contact with an alkaline substance, the skin secretes acidic substances to restore the normal pH value. This process results in disturbance to the skin physiology and causes secretions such as sebum, sweat etc which results in causing discomfort.

Accordingly, it is desired that cosmetics such as creams, lotions etc. when applied to the skin are conditioned to possess weakly acidic or neutral pH while maintaining the characteristics of the traditional vanishing cream.

US 4 800 076 (1989, Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Inc) discloses a skin care composition in the form of creams and lotions containing low amount fatty acids and
significantly higher amounts of talc, with a specific ratio of non-volatile ingredients to talc from about 0.4:1 to 3.2:1 but does not reveal the achievement of sensorial properties equivalent to vanishing cream.

KR20090116755 A (UNILEVER) discloses vanishing creams containing relatively lower amounts of fatty acid made by including particulate matter selected from talc, starch or its derivatives, along with a relatively higher amount of fatty acid soap. Drawback of this composition is the presence of higher amount of soap, which increases the pH value of the composition and makes skin alkaline leading to discomfort.

US Patent 7361364 (Chandar et.al) reveals a vanishing cream composition which is free
of fatty acids and soap in comprising fatty alcohol, emulsifier, inorganic agent, polymer and water wherein said inorganic agent comprises smectite clay. The composition thus disclosed does not teach attainment of similar vanishing properties as attained by stearic acid and hence does not teach an alternative to a stearic acid based composition.

US patent Application No 2003/0026819 Ai (Rios et. al) discloses a dermatological composition containing 5-60% clay, natural/synthetic gum, surfactant, a hydrophobic and/or hydrophilic solvent without any hint at the cosmetic sensory aspects of the said composition that is only directed to a therapeutic delivery vehicle.

As evident from the above that even though some prior art disclosures are based on non-fatty acid/non-soap based cream composition, the same remained unable to provide for useful alternatives to fatty acid and soap free compositions which even in the absence of fatty acid and soap imparts vanishing cream like sensorial properties to said compositions.

Thus there is a longfelt need in the art to provide for cosmetic compositions suitable as a base for diverse skin care formulations/ applications which in comprising selective ingredients and being free of fatty acid and soap would still provide for both vanishing cream like sensorial properties equivalent to that provided by fatty acid and soap, and a skin friendly pH below 6.5. The provision of such a cosmetic composition would then serve as an useful alternative to fatty acid and soap containing compositions, which in the desired absence of fatty acids and soaps would allow incorporation of the acidic skin benefiting agents and yet retain its stability, which in not being alkaline would not allow the skin to secrete acidic substances thereby causing discomfort, and would also be advantageously efficacious as suitable base composition with said characteristics for incorporation in diverse skin care formulations/applications.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

It is thus a primary object of the present invention to provide for a cosmetic composition that would be a useful alternative to fatty acid and soap based compositions and yet possess equivalent vanishing cream like sensorial properties to thus overcome the prior art disadvantages of fatty acid and soap based vanishing cream like cosmetic compositions.

It is another object of the present invention to provide for such cosmetic compositions that would be useful as a base to find end use and application in variety of skin care formulations thereby imparting a skin friendly pH.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide for such said compositions which in the desired absence of fatty acids and soaps and having a skin friendly pH would allow incorporation of the acidic skin benefiting agents and yet retain the stability of such compositions.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide for said cosmetic composition which in not being alkaline in the absence of fatty acid and soap would thus prevent the skin to secrete acidic substances causing discomfort for maintenance of the pH balance of the skin.

It is still an object of the present invention to provide for such compositions having skin friendly pH with desired consistency in the presence of suitable ingredients with vanishing cream like sensorial properties that is free from fatty acid and soap.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Thus according to the basic aspect of the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition for skin care free from fatty acid and soap comprising

(a) at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil having melting point of at least about 45°C;

(b) at least one emulsifier;

(c) at least one Solid inorganic particulates;

in combination with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents adapted for equivalent vanishing cream like sensorial properties even in being free of fatty acid and soap and having a skin friendly pH..

Preferably said cosmetic composition for skin care may optionally comprise one or more fatty alcohol.

Importantly, it is thus the selective finding of the present invention that only when a selective mix of ingredients comprising hydrogenated vegetable oil emulsified with suitable emulsifier(s) is present in combination with solid inorganic particulates, only then a cosmetic composition could be achieved wherein the ingredients synergizes to provide for vanishing cream like sensorial properties that too even in the complete absence of fatty acid and soap. This is surprising and special since none of the actives of hydrogenated vegetable oil, emulsifier and solid inorganic particulates are known to have any inherent characteristics of vanishing cream like sensorial properties which when provided only in combination achieve such special and surprising beneficial attributes.

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is suitable for topical application to skin and favours its end use and application in various skin care formulations for topical application adapted for delivering skin benefiting properties such as but not limited to, anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, anti-acne, wound healing, sebum reduction, skin nutritional, vitamins and minerals, photo protection, moisturisation and the like. The composition of the preset invention thus suitable as a base for variety of skin formulations is highly suitable for hot and high humid climatic conditions.

According to another preferred aspect of the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition for skin care comprising:

a) hydrogenated vegetable oil of melting point at least about 45°C in the range of 1 to about 25% by wt. of the composition;

b) emulsifier at least 0.1-10% by weight of the composition;

c) Solid inorganic particulates at least 0.1-20% by weight of the composition;

optionally, including fatty alcohol in the range of at least 0.1-5% by weight of the composition and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin benefiting agents.

According to another preferred aspect of the present invention there is provided said cosmetic composition for skin care wherein said hydrogenated vegetable oil is preferably selected from hydrogenated soy and /or castor oil and more preferably is selected from hydrogenated soy oil present in the range of at least 1% to about 25% by wt. of the composition, preferably 4-20.0% and more preferably 8-18 % by weight of the said composition.

According to yet another preferred aspect of the present invention there is provided said cosmetic composition for skin care wherein said emulsifier is preferably selected form a group of anionic and non-ionic emulsifiers and the combinations thereof and is present in the range of at least 0.1-10% by wt. of the composition preferably 0.5-5% and more preferably 1.0-3.5% by wt. of the composition.

According to another preferred aspect of the present invention there is provided said cosmetic composition for skin care wherein said Solid inorganic particulates is selected from swelling and/or non swelling inorganic particulates such as talc, kaolin, and is present preferably in amounts of at least 0.1 % to about 25% by wt of the composition, preferably 1-16%, more preferably 4-12%, by weight of the composition.

Preferably, in said cosmetic composition for skin care said fatty alcohol(s) are selected from the group of C12-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably C14-C20 fatty alcohol, most preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and is present preferably in amounts of at least 0.05 to about 10%, preferably 0.25-7%, more preferably 0.5-3%, by weight of the composition.

More preferably, in said cosmetic composition for skin care said skin benefiting ingredient optionally comprises at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha and/ or beta hydroxy acid or any other desirable acidic skin benefiting agents including salicylic acid present in free or encapsulated form.

According to another preferred aspect of the present invention there is provided said cosmetic wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 3 to 6.5 and more preferably is in the range of 4 to 5.7.

Preferably, in said cosmetic composition the skin benefiting agent includes skin lightening ingredients, moisturizing ingredients, anti-aging ingredients, sunscreens, anti acne ingredients, sebum regulating ingredients and other such ingredients as needed and combinations thereof.

According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a process for the preparation of said cosmetic composition for skin care comprising the steps of

(I) providing a separate mix of oil soluble ingredients including emollients, hydrogenated vegetable oil, sunscreens, preservatives, antioxidants, fatty alcohol, emulsifiers and any other oil soluble/ dispersible ingredients and heating the mixture to 70 °C to 80°C preferably up to 75 °C;

(II) providing separate mix of water soluble/ dispersible ingredients along with the Solid inorganic particulates and heating the mixture to 70°C to 80°C preferably up to 75°C;

(III) preparing the emulsion at 70°C to 80°C preferably at about 75 °C by adding the mix of step (I) into the mix of step (II) followed by thorough mixing followed by homogenization;

(IV) cooling the mix obtained from step (III) above to below 50 °C and optionally, adding other skin benefiting agents including vitamins, herbal extracts, perfume.

Advantageously, a skin care formulation for variety of end use and application is provided involving said cosmetic composition as a selective base material free of fatty acids and soap adapted to impart a skin friendly pH of below 6.5 and vanishing cream like sensorial properties even in being free of fatty acid and soap, to said formulation.

More advantageously, said skin care formulation is selected from anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, anti-acne, wound healing, sebum reduction, skin nutritional including vitamins and minerals, skin photo protection, skin moisturisation suitable for topical application to skin and adapted for delivering skin benefiting properties even under hot and high humid climatic conditions.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention there is provided a process for the preparation of said cosmetic composition suitable for skin care comprising the steps of:

(I) Mixing separately oil soluble ingredients like emulsifiers, hydrogenated vegetable oil, fatty alcohol, emollients, sunscreens, preservatives, antioxidants and waxes by heating the mixture to a temperature in the range of 70 °C to 85°C and more preferably 80°C.

(II) Mixing separately water soluble/dispersible ingredients like moisturiser, chelating agents, Solid inorganic particulate , water soluble/ dispersible emulsifiers, stabilizer and thickeners by heating mixture to a temperature in the range of 70°C to 80 °C and more preferably 75° C.

(III) adding the mixture obtained in step (I) into the mixture obtained in Step (II) with high speed mixing followed by homogenization at a temperature in the range of 70°C to 75°C

(IV) cooling the resulting product to a temperature in the range of about 55°C and if desired 50°C

(V) adding vitamins, herbal extracts other optional skin benefiting agents and perfume to the resulting composition, to obtain therefrom

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As discussed hereinbefore the present invention provides for a cosmetic composition for skin care also suitable as a base for diverse skin care formulations/applications which in being free of fatty acid and soap yet advantageously provides for vanishing cream like sensorial properties that is also having skin friendly pH. More particularly, said cosmetic composition comprises at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil preferably having melting point of at least of about 45°C, at least one solid inorganic particulate, at least one emulsifier and may optionally include fatty alcohol, skin care benefiting agents and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

Advantageously, said cosmetic composition of the present invention is suitable for topical application to skin and favours its end use and application in various skin care formulations for topical application adapted for delivering skin benefiting properties such as but not limited to, anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, anti-acne, wound healing, sebum reduction, anti perspirant, underarm creams,skin nutritional including vitamins and minerals, photo protection, moisturisation and the like. The composition of the present invention is therefore suitable as a base for variety of skin formulations is also highly suitable for hot and high humid climatic conditions.

For the purpose of better appreciation of the invention reference is made to various terms as detailed hereunder:

As used herein, the term "cosmetic composition" is intended to describe compositions for topical application to skin, including leave-on and wash-off products wherein the delivery system comprises but not limited to creams, ointments, lotions, sticks, sprays, packs, wraps, woven or nonwoven wipes, films or patches as a vehicle for topical application of the said cosmetic composition.

Except where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of materials or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use are to be understood as modified by the word "about". All amounts are by weight of the compositions, unless otherwise specified.

The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, under arm, hands, legs and scalp.

Preferred cosmetic compositions are those suitable for the application to skin, which optionally, but preferably, include a skin benefiting agent.

The compounds listed blow are those of standard use in the art. The examples provided do not limited the types of compounds to be used in the invention, but are merely illustrative. Other compounds of standard use and non standard use in the art may also be used.

Fatty alcohols

Fatty alcohol are aliphatic alcohols consisting of a chain of 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Fatty alcohols usually have even number of carbon atoms and a single alcohol group (-OH) attached to the terminal carbon. Some are unsaturated and some are branched.

Preferably fatty alcohols are selected from a carbon chain length C14-C20. It is preferred that fatty alcohol is a straight chain and saturated fatty alcohol. They are solid at a temperature of at least 45°C.

Most preferred is one or a combination of fatty alcohols selected from stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or cetostearyl alcohol.

The total concentration of the fatty alcohol is in the range from 0.05 to 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition and preferably from 0.25 to 7%. Most preferably from 0.50 to 3% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

Hydrogenated Vegetable oil

Hydrogenated vegetable oil, is a hard, brittle, vegetable wax. It is produced by the hydrogenation (chemical combination with hydrogen) of vegetable oil in the presence of a catalyst. It is odorless and insoluble in water.

Suitable hydrogenated vegetable oils are generally selected from those with having higher melting point such as 35°C to 80°C. It is preferred that at least 50% by weight of the vegetable oil is hydrogenated. It is mostly preferred that the vegetable oil is fully hydrogenated.. It is also particularly preferred that hydrogenated vegetable oils are solid at a temperature of at least 45°C.

Most preferred is one or more a combination of hydrogenated vegetable oil selected from hydrogenated soy oil and/or hydrogenated caster oil/ hydrogenated rice bran oil.

The total concentration of the hydrogenated vegetable oil is in the range from 1.0 to 25 % by weight of the cosmetic composition and preferably from 4% to 20%, most preferably from 8%to 18% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

Solid Inorganic particulates

Suitable solid inorganic particulates are generally selected from with swelling and/or non swelling inorganic particulates those with or without organically modifications.

Non swelling symmetric inorganic particulates include, but are not limited to, Talc, Kaolin etc., Fine powder Talc is a white, odourless inorganic mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate with the chemical formula H2Mg3(Si03)4 or Mg3Si4O10(OH)2. Kaolin is a clay mineral, fine powder is of white to yellowish white, with the chemical composition AI2Si205(OH)4. It is a layered silicate mineral, with one tetrahedral sheet linked through oxygen atoms to one octahedral sheet of alumina octahedra. It is also known as china clay.

Swelling inorganic particulates include, but not limited to, Montmorillonite clays, Montmorillonite clays inculde, but not limited to, magnesium aluminum silicate, bentonite, hectorite, or surface reactive montmorillonite clays including, but not limited to, quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite.

Preferred is one or a combination of swelling and/or non swelling solid inorganic particulates.

Most preferred is one or a combination of non swelling solid inorganic particulates such as Talc, Kaolin etc.

The total concentration of the non swelling solid inorganic particulates is in the range from 0.10 to 25 % by weight of the cosmetic composition and preferably from 1% to 16%, most preferably from 4% to 12% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

Emulsifier

The emulsifier system employed in the composition comprises anionic and/or nonionic emulsifiers. Examples of the emulsifiers include the following, either alone or in combination:

Anionic emulsifier typically employed in the cosmetic composition of the present invention exclude soap (alkali/alkaline earth metal salt of fatty acid), but not limited to, Alkyl phosphate, alkyl sulfates, aralkyl sulfates, alkyl ethoxy ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates alkoyl sarcosinates, aspatate, glutamate, taurates and isethionates,

Nonionic emulsifier typically employed in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, but not limited to, glyceryl esters, ethylene glycol esters, propylene glycol esters and sucrose esters of fatty acids/fatty alcohol, polyethylene esters of fatty acids/alcohol, fatty acid glycerides and sorbitan esters.

Examples of emulsifiers includes: glyceryl caprate, glyceryl lanolate, glyceryl myristate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monohydroxy stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate, glycol stearate, glycol distearate, glycol dilaurate, diethylene glycol dilaurate, propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol distearate, palm glycerides, hydrogenated coco glycerides, sucrose distearate.,PEG-8 stearate, PEG-9 stearate, PEG-8 distearate, PEG-20 stearate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, EG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, PEG-40 sorbitan lanolate, PEG-6 sorbitan beeswax and PEG-20 sorbitan beeswax, Cetearyl glucoside & Cetearyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol/Myristyl glucoside, Cetearyl alcohol/Cocoglucoside, Arachidyl alcohol/Behenyl alcohol/Arachidyl glucoside, Sucrose polystearate, Sucrose dilaurate, Sucrose Hexaerucate, Sucrose hexaoleate/ hexapalmitate/ Hexastearate, Sucrose Hexa palmitate, Sucroselaurate, Sucrose Myristate, Sucrose Octaacetate, Sucrose Oleate, Sucrose palmitate, Sucrose Pentaerucate, Sucrose Polylaurate, Sucrose polylinoleate, SucrosepolypaImitate, Sucrose Ricinoleate, Sucrose Tetra isostearate, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Sucrose TriBehenate, Sucrose Tristearate , Isostearyl alcohol/Isostearyl glucoside and the like.

The total concentration of the emulsifier in the composition is in the range from 0.10 to 10 % by weight of the cosmetic composition and preferably from 0.25% to 5%,most preferably from 1% to 3.5% by weight of the cosmetic composition

Other Optional Skin Benefit Materials and Cosmetic Adjuncts

Suitable other skin benefit agents include anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, antiacne, wound healing, moisturizing, sebum reduction agents, vitamins, proteins and minerals, UV diffusing/protection agents. Examples of these include but not limited to kojic acid and esters, ferulic acid and ferulate derivatives, vanillic acid and esters, dioic acids (such as sebacic and azelaic acids) and esters, retinol, retinal, retinyl esters, hydroquinone, t-butyl hydroquinone, calcium alginate, hyaluronic acid, vitamin E acetate, K, Ca,ascorbic acid,vitamin C, mulberry extract, licorice extract, Hydrolysed Soy protein, Hydrolysed milk protein ,Allantoin, proteolytic enzymes,amino acids, anti perspirant, antimicrobial agents, colouring pigments and phenolic acid glycosidic polyhydroxybenzylate derivatives Acidic skin benefit agents are considered as known active ingredients for improving the skin structure, increase smoothness, firmness, moisture content and skin lightening which act by suppressing melanogenesis by inhibiting formation of tyrosinase.

The preferred acidic skin benefit agents are hydroxy acids, most preferably alpha and beta hydroxy acids .

Illustrative of alpha hydroxy acid group of materials are: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid); 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid); 2-methyl 2- hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid); 2-hydroxybutanoic acid; 2-hydroxypentanoic acid; 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid; 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid; 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid; 2- hydroxynonanoic acid; 2-hydroxydecanoic acid; 2- hydroxyundecanoic acid; 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid (alpha-hydroxylauric acid); 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid (alpha- hydroxymyristic acid); 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid (alpha- hydroxypalmitic acid); 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid (alpha- hydroxystearic acid); 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha- hydroxyarachidonic acid); 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid); 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyl lactic acid); 2-phenyl, 2-methyl, 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid); 2- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) 2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2-(4'-chlorophenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2- (3'- hydroxy-4'-methoxyphenyl) 2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 2- (4'- hydroxy-3'-methoxyphenyl) 2-hydroxyethanoic acid; 3'- (2-hydroxyphenyl) 2-hydroxypropanoic acid; 3- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) 2-hydroxypropanoic acid; and 2- (3', 4'-dihydroxyphenyl) 2- hydroxyethanoic acid.

Most preferred of this group of materials are glycolic acid, lactic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid or combinations thereof

Illustrative of the beta-hydroxy carboxylic acids is salicylic acid. The present composition comprise a mixture of both a beta-hydroxy carboxylic acid and an alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid.

Emollient materials in the form of mineral oils, silicone oils and synthetic esters may be incorporated into compositions of the present invention. Amounts of the emollients may range anywhere from about 0.1 to about 30%, preferably between about 0.5 and 20% by
weight.

Silicone oils may be divided into the volatile and non-volatile variety. The term "volatile" as used herein refers to those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient temperature. Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9, preferably from about 4 to about 5, silicon atoms.

Linear volatile silicone materials generally have viscosities less than about 5 centistokes at 25° C. while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes.

Nonvolatile silicone oils useful as an emollient material include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes with viscosities of from about 5 to about 100,000 centistokes at 25° C.

Suitable ester emollients include: (1) alkenyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as methyl myristate, methyl stearate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, or butyl oleate; (2) ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols; (3) polyhydric alcohol esters, such as ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono-and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono-and di- fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono-and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters; (4) wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, myristyl myristate, stearyl stearate; (5) sterols esters, such as cholesterol fatty acid esters.

The preferred ester emollients are isopropyl myristate,isopropyI palmitate,isostearyl palmitate, tridecyl salicylate,C12-15 octanoate and isopropyl stearate or any mixtures thereof.

The inventive compositions most preferably further include an ingredient selected from the group consisting of antioxidants, reducing agents, chelating agents, and mixtures thereof to improve the stability of the cosmetic cream. These ingredients provide an additional level of protection against oxidation of skin benefit agents in the cosmetic cream. Common examples of antioxidants, reducing agents and chelating agent for the present formulations can be found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary 4th Edition, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1991.

Preferable reducing agents are sodium sulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium thiosulfite or other thiols, such as thioglycerol, thiourea, thioglycolic acid, cysteine and the like. Preferable antioxidants are rac-6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetra-methylchromane-2-carboxylic acid (trolox), propyl gallate, n-propyl trihydroxybenzoate, t-butyl hydroquinone and butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate, hydroquinone, dibutyl hydroquinone and the like.

Suitable examples of chelating agents include, EDTA, citric acid, tartaric acid, organo-aminophosphonic acids and organo phosphonic acid components including certain of the commercially available DequestTM compounds, marketed by Monsanto. Preferred is EDTA-disodium.

Antioxidants are included in the inventive compositions in an amount of from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, most preferably from 0.2 to 4%. Reducing agents are included in the inventive compositions in an amount of from 0.01 to 10%, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, most preferably from 0.2 to 4%. Chelating agents are included in the inventive compositions in an amount of from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, most preferably from 0.05 to 0.3%.

Thickeners/viscosifiers in amounts of up to about 2% by weight of the composition may also be included. The exact amount thickeners vary depends desired consistency and thickness of the final composition. Suitable thickeners include xanthan gum, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl and alkyl celluloses (particularly hydroxypropyl cellulose), sclerotium gum and polyacrylamide dispersions in isoparaffin such as those sold by Seppic Inc. under the Sepigel@ 305 trademark.

Enzymes exfoliants in amounts of up to about 0.10% -10% by weight of the composition may also be included.

Enzyme exfoliants are known for their ability to gently break down the bonds holding dead cells onto skin, accelerating the skin's natural exfoliation process with less chance for irritation. They're able to digest keratin protein and the upper layer, or stratum corneum, of skin, which is made up of primarily dead keratin cells.

The most popular and commonly used exfoliating enzymes are naturally derived from pineapple, papaya, yam, mango, kiwi fruit, figs, pancreatin and pumpkin.

Pineapple contains the strongest of the three enzymes, bromelain.

Papaya contains the enzyme papain, and pumpkin is rich in the enzyme protease.
Colouring pigments in amounts of up to about 0.001% -5.0% by weight of the composition may also be included.

Examples of organic pigments suitable for the present invention are C.I. 15850, C.I. 15850:1, C.I. 15585:1, C.I. 15630, C.I. 15880:1, C.I. 73360, C.I. 12085, C.I. 15865:2, C.I. 12075, C.I. 21110, C.I. 21095, and C.I. 11680, C.I. 74160 and zirconium, barium or aluminum lakes of C.I. 45430, C.I. 45410, C.I. 45100, C.I. 17200, C.I. 45380, C.I. 45190, C.I. 14700, C.I. 15510, C.I. 19140, C.I. 15985, C.I. 45350, C.I. 47005, C.I. 42053andC.I.42090.

The surfaces of these organic pigments may be treated with, for example, resins. These organic pigments may be used alone or in any mixture thereof.

Examples of pearling pigments (or nacreaous pigments) are bismuth oxychloride, guanine and titanium composite materials containing, as a titanium component, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides or titanium oxynitride. The titanium composite materials may be mixed with colored pigments such as iron oxides, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, carbon black and carmine. These pearling pigments may be used alone or in any mixture thereof.

Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol-type may also be employed as cosmetically acceptable carriers in compositions of this invention. The amount of humectant may range anywhere from 0.5 to 30%, preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention preferably includes an effective amount of a sunscreen and/or sun-block agent to synergistically benefit the composition in providing for skin lightening effects to thereby enhance it. Organic and inorganic sunscreens/sun-blocks or combinations thereof may be suitably employed in the composition.

Ultraviolet light is a predominant cause of skin darkening. Thus, compositions comprising UVA and/or UVB sunscreen are desirable.

A wide variety of conventional sunscreen agents are suitable for use in combination with the skin lightening composition of the present invention. Suitable sunscreen agents include, p-aminobenzoic acid, its salts and its derivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid); anthranilates (i.e.,o-aminobenzoates; methyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); salicylates (amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and dipropyleneglycol esters); cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, a-phenyl cinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate); dihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone, methylaceto-umbelliferone); trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives (esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin and daphnin); hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); dibenzalacetone and benzalacetophenone; naphthol-sulfonates (sodium salts of 2- naphthol-3,6-disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids); di-hydroxy-naphthoic acid and its salts; o-and p- hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy, 7-methyl, 3-phenyl); diazoles (2-acetyl-3- bromoindazole, phenyl benzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); quinine salts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); quinoline derivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); hydroxy-or methoxy-substituted benzophenones; uric and vilouric acids; tannic acid and its derivatives (e. g., hexaethylether); (butyl carbotol) (6-propyl piperonyl) ether; hydroquinone; benzophenones (oxy-benzene, sulisobenzone, dioxybenzone, benzoresorcinol, 2, 2', 4, 4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2, 2'-dihydroxy-4, 4'- dimethylbenzophenone, octabenzone); 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane; butyl-methoxydibenzoylmethane; etocrylene; and 4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane.

Of these, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 4, 4'-t- butylmethoxydibenzoyl-methane, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2, 2-dihydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4- (bis (hydroxypropyl) ) aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2- cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl-p-aminobenzoate, 3,3, 5- trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p- dimethyl-aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p- dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2- (p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid and mixtures of these compounds, are preferred.

More preferred sunscreens useful in the compositions useful in the subject invention are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy- 4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof.

A safe and effective amount of sunscreen may be used in the compositions useful in the subject invention. The composition preferably comprises from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 10%, of one or more sunscreen agent (s).

Useful inorganic sunscreens or sun-blocks include, but are not limited to, zinc oxide iron oxide, silica, such as fumed silica, and titanium dioxide.

Ultrafine titanium dioxide in either of its two forms, namely water-dispersible titanium dioxide and oil- dispersible titanium dioxide is especially suitable for the invention.

Water-dispersible titanium dioxide is ultra-fine titanium dioxide, the particles of which are non-coated or which are coated with a material to impart a hydrophilic surface property to the particles. Examples of such materials include aluminium oxide and aluminium silicate.

Oil-dispersible titanium dioxide is ultrafine titanium dioxide, the particles of which exhibit a hydrophobic surface property, and which, for this purpose, can be coated with metal soaps such as aluminium stearate, aluminium laurate or zinc stearate, or with organosilicone compounds.

By topical application to the skin of a mixture of inorganic sunscreens or sunblock agents and/or organic sunscreens, synergistically enhanced protection of the skin against the harmful effects of both UV-A and UV-B rays is achievable.

The total amount of inorganic sunscreen or sun block that is preferably incorporated in the composition according to the invention is from 0.1 to 10% by weight of the composition

Suitable anti-irritancy agents include gluconolactone, borage seed oil, wild borage, dextran, alpha-bisabolol (extracted from chamomille), azulene (extracted from yarrow), resveratrol, petroselenic acid and combinations thereof. Each of these can be present at levels ranging from about 0.0001 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.001 to about 1%, optimally from about 0.01 to about 0.5% by weight of the composition.

Anti-microbial agents may also be useful in compositions of the present invention.

Typically the anti-microbial agents are selected from triclosan, tricarbanilide, tea tree oil, farnesol, farnesol acetate, hexachlorophene, C4-C20 quaternary ammonium salts such as benzalconium chloride and a variety of zinc or aluminum salts. Typically the zinc or aluminum salts are compounds such as zinc pyridinethione, zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc phenolsulphonate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate and aluminum chlorhydrate. Amounts of the anti-microbial ageht may range from about 0.1 to about 5%, preferably from about 0.2 to about 1%, optimally about 0.3% by weight of the composition.

Preservatives may also desirably be incorporated into the cosmetic compositions of this invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Suitable traditional preservatives include alkyl esters of para- hydroxybenzoic acid. Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include hydantoin derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability. Particularly preferred preservatives are disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, butyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea (commercially available as Germall 1157), sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol.

The preservatives should be selected having regard for the use of the composition and possible incompatibilities between the preservatives and other ingredients in the emulsion. Preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight of the composition.

Herbal extracts may also be included as components of the composition and are particularly effective for controlling the level of sebum/oil. Suitable extracts include dill, horseradish, oats, neem, beet, broccoli, tea, pumpkin, soybean, barley, walnut, flax, ginseng, poppy, avocado, pea, sesame, dandelion, wheat, nettle, cashew, pineapple, apple, asparagus, Brazil nut, chickpea, grapefruit, orange, cucumber, buckwheat, strawberry, ginko, tomato, blueberry, cowpea and grape extracts.

The composition of the invention may contain other skin whiteners, For example, it may contain one or more of ascorbic acid and its salts and esters, placenta extract, kojic acid and its salts and esters, glucosamine and its salts and esters, azelaic acid and its salts and esters, retinol and its salts and esters, pyridoxine and its salts and esters, tranexamic acid and its salts and esters, arbutin, photosensitive substances, sulfur, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, ginseng extract, licorice root extract, etc. The amount of the additional skin whitener to be in the composition may be from 0.1 to 10.0% by weight.

Other optional ingredients that include coloring agents, opacifiers and pigments (e.g titanium dioxide, silica) and perfumes. Amounts of these materials may range anywhere from 0.001% up to 20% by weight of the composition.

All the examples of ingredients mentioned above are only by way of examples, but is not limited to only those cited.

The details of the invention are given in the following Examples which are provided to illustrate the invention and therefore should not be construed to limit the scope of the invention.

EXAMPLES: Sensory Studies:

A formulation according to the invention (Example 1 below) along with identical formulations but without Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil and/or Solid inorganic particulate and emulsifiers (Comparative Examples 2, 3 and 4) were compared with a conventional vanishing cream base (Example 5 below) for vanishing cream like sensory characteristics.

Formulation (Example 2) was lotion in structure (liquidy/thin) when hydrogenated vegetable oil was not included. Formulation (Example 4) was unstable when emulsifiers were not included and so these two formulations (Examples 2 & example 4) could not be tested in the sensory studies.

The study was conducted using a 10 member expert panel of trained women who used a known amount of the test formulations as described in Table 1 and compared it to the conventional vanishing cream. The panelists were given coded samples in a randomized order. Panelists gave their comments on the sensory attributes of the formulations both during use and after use. Each panelist scored both formulation on a set of attributes (as indicated in Table 2) using a scale of 1 to 10. Each panelist was regularly validated using control formulations which were used to define the scales for each attribute, e.g. for greasiness the scale ranged from 1 (completely non-greasy like water) to 10 (very greasy/heavy like petroleum jelly).

Table 1

A higher score means a stronger affirmation of the sensory character described, i.e. a score of 2.1 on greasiness means less greasy end-feel. Hence a lower score on greasiness indicates non-oily look while a lower score on Shine indicates more Matte.

It can thus be clearly concluded from the data in Table 2 that the formulation in accordance with the present invention (Example 1) shows a surprisingly and unexpectedly special equivalent match on sensory properties with a high stearic acid vanishing cream (Example 5), while elimination of Hydrogenated vegetable oil or, Solid inorganic particulate does not provide the same sensory effect as a vanishing cream

Example 6: Formulation of vanishing cream form of Skin Lightening Cream Table 3:

The formulations presented in Table 3 are prepared in the following fashion. Phase A, oil phase is heated at 75° C. Phase B, water phase is heated to 75° C in a separate vessel from that of Phase A. Add phase A to Phase B with thorough mixing followed by homogenization for 15 minutes and cooling started. At 50 °C Phase C is added. At 45 °C phase D is added. The mixture is cooled until 40 °C and then packed.

Example 7: Formulation of vanishing cream form of Skin Lightening Cream Table 4:

The formulations presented in Table 4 are prepared in the following fashion. Phase A, oil phase is heated at 75° C. Phase B, water phase is heated to 75 °C in a separate vessel from that of Phase A. Add phase A to Phase B with thorough mixing followed by homogenisation for 15 minutes and cooling started. At 50 °C Phase C is added. At 45 °C phase D is added. The mixture is cooled until 40 °C and then packed.

Example 8: Formulation of vanishing cream form of SPF cream Table 5:

The formulations presented in Table 5 are prepared in the following fashion. Phase A, oil phase is heated at 75 °C. Phase B, water phase is heated to 75 °C in a separate vessel from that of Phase A. Add phase A to Phase B with thorough mixing followed by homogenisation for 15 minutes and cooling started. At 50 °C Phase C is added. At 45 °C phase D is added. The mixture is cooled until 40 °C and then packed.

Example 9: Anti Acne Cream: Table 6:

The above said composition of Table 6 is prepared in the following fashion.

Oil Phase A mixture is heated to 78 °C. Water Phase B mixture is heated to 75 °C in a separate vessel from that of Phase A. Add phase A mixture to phase B mixture with high speed mixing followed by homogenization for 15 minutes and start cooling. Cool the mixture to 50 °C and then add the Phase C mixture. Cool the mixture to 40 °C temperature and then add phase D mixture. Cool the mixture to room temperature and then pack.

A series of tests were conducted and established the stability of the preferred above stated composition containing anionic & non-ionic emulsifiers as stabilizing agents for low pH vanishing creams wherein the pH of products was found to be <6.

It is thus made possible by way of the present advancement to provide for a cosmetic composition also suitable as a base for diverse skin care formulations/applications which in being free of fatty acid and soap yet provides for vanishing cream like sensorial properties that is also skin friendly by having a favourable pH below 6.5.

Advantageously, said cosmetic composition of the present invention is suitable for topical application to skin even in hot and high humid climatic conditions to thereby favour its end use and application in various skin care formulations for topical application adapted for delivering skin benefiting properties such as but not limited to, anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, antiacne, wound healing, sebum reduction, skin nutritional including vitamins and minerals, photo protection, moisturisation and the like.

WE CLAIM:

1. A cosmetic composition for skin care free from fatty acid and soap comprising

(a) at least one hydrogenated vegetable oil having melting point of at least about 45°C;

(b) at least one emulsifier;

(c) at least one solid inorganic particulates;

in combination with a cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin care benefiting agents adapted for equivalent vanishing cream like sensorial properties even in being free of fatty acid and soap.

2. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in claim 1 optionally comprising one or more fatty alcohol.

3. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in claims 1 or 2 comprising:

a) hydrogenated vegetable oil of melting point at least about 45°C in the range of 1 to about 25% by wt. of the composition;

b) emulsifier at least 0.1-10% by weight of the composition;

c) Solid inorganic particulates at least 0.1-25% by weight of the composition;
optionally, including fatty alcohol in the range of at least 0.1-5% by weight of the composition and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle with or without other skin benefiting agents.

4. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein said hydrogenated vegetable oil is preferably selected from hydrogenated soy and rice bran /or castor oil and more preferably is selected from hydrogenated soy oil present in the range of at least 1% to about 25% by wt. of the composition, preferably 4-20.0% and more preferably 8-18 % by weight of the said composition.

5. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein said emulsifier is preferably selected form a group of anionic and non-ionic emulsifiers and the combinations thereof and is present in the range of at least 0.1-10% by wt. of the composition preferably 0.5-5% and more preferably 1.0-3.5% by wt. of the composition.

6. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein said solid inorganic particulates is selected from swelling and/or non swelling inorganic particulates such as talc, kaolin, and is present preferably in amounts of at least 0.1 % to about 25% by wt of the composition, preferably 1-16%, more preferably 4-12%, by weight of the composition.

7. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein said fatty alcohol(s) is selected from the group of C12-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably C14-C20 fatty alcohol, most preferably C16-C18 fatty alcohol such as cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, and is present preferably in amounts of at least 0.05 to about 10%, preferably 0.25-7%, more preferably 0.5-3%, by weight of the composition.

8. A cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein said skin benefiting ingredient optionally comprises at least one hydroxy acid selected from alpha and/ or beta hydroxy acid or any other desirable acidic skin benefiting agents including salicylic acid present in free or encapsulated form.

9. A cosmetic composition as claimed as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein the pH of the composition ranges from 3 to 8.0 and preferable from pH 4 to 7 and more preferably is in the range of pH 5.0- 6.0.

10. A cosmetic composition as claimed in anyone of the preceding claims wherein the skin benefiting agent includes skin lightening ingredients, moisturizing ingredients, anti-aging ingredients, sunscreens, anti acne ingredients, sebum regulating ingredients, enzymes exfoliants and other such ingredients as needed and combinations thereof.

11. A process for the preparation of the cosmetic composition for skin care as claimed in anyone of claims 1 to 10 comprising the steps of

(I) providing a separate mix of oil soluble ingredients including emollients, hydrogenated vegetable oil, sunscreens, preservatives, antioxidants, fatty alcohol, emulsifiers and any other oil soluble/ dispersible ingredients and heating the mixture to 70 °C to 80°C preferably up to 75 °C;

(II) providing separate mix of water soluble/ dispersible ingredients along with the Solid inorganic particulates and heating the mixture to 70°C to 80°C preferably up to 75°C;

(III) preparing the emulsion at 70°C to 80°C preferably at about 75 °C by adding the mix of step (I) into the mix of step (II) followed by thorough mixing followed by homogenization;

(IV) cooling the mix obtained from step (III) above to below 50 °C and optionally, adding other skin benefiting agents including vitamins, herbal extracts, perfume.

12. A skin care formulation for variety of end use and application involving the cosmetic composition as claimed in anyone of claims 1-10 as a selective base material free of fatty acids and soap with wide ranging skin friendly pH options and vanishing cream like sensorial properties even in being free of fatty acid and soap, to said formulation.

13. A skin care formulation as claimed in claim 12 selected from anti-aging, wrinkle-reducing, skin whitening, anti-acne, wound healing, sebum reduction, skin nutritional including vitamins and minerals, skin photo protection, skin moisturisation suitable for topical application to skin and adapted for delivering skin benefiting properties even under hot and high humid climatic conditions.