SOFT SOLID OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF
NONIONIC SURFACTANTS, A WATER-SOLUBLE POLYSACCHARIDE AND A
WAX COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ESTER
The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water
emulsion, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) a continuous aqueous phase and
B) an oily phase dispersed in the said aqueous phase and comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil;
C) at least one mixture consisting of:
i) at least one nonionic surfactant containing a saturated linear hydrocarbon-based
chain comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, the said surfactant being other than a
fatty alcohol, and
ii) at least one fatty alcohol chosen from:
- a pure fatty alcohol comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;
- a mixture consisting exclusively of fatty alcohols containing at least 16 carbon
atoms and comprising at least 50% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) containing at least
18 atoms; and
D) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than 45°C comprising one or
more C4o-C7o ester compounds and not comprising any C20-C39 ester compounds,
in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition and
E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide; the said composition having a
hardness measured at 32°C and at a humidity of 40% ranging from 20 kPa to 200
kPa and preferably ranging from 25 kPa to 150 kPa.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring
for human keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying to the
surface of the keratin material a composition as defined previously.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human
perspiration and/or perspiration-related body odour, which consists in applying to
the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined previously
comprising at least one deodorant active agent and/or one antiperspirant active
agent.
In the field of cosmetic skincare products, especially deodorant and antiperspirant
products, various galenical categories may be defined: aerosols, sticks, creams,
gels, soft solids, roll-ons.
In the field of deodorants and antiperspirants, "soft solid" compositions constitute a
new category of products that are appreciated by consumers for their efficacy and
their cosmetic qualities (ease of application, soft, dry feel). They are likened to
solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading over
the surface of the skin or, for example, by extrusion through a device with a
perforated wall (grille). "Soft solid" compositions, by virtue of their fondant texture,
may also find increased value as care products for human keratin materials such
as the skin or the lips, or as massage products, balms or pomades, or lipcare
sticks. They have been described in particular in patent application WO 201 2/084
522. On account of their anhydrous texture, these formulations may appear
greasy, present on the skin and lacking in freshness.
In contrast, roll-ons constitute a range of fresh, fluid products which may
occasionally be considered as being tacky and very slow to dry.
There is thus still a need to produce "soft solid" cosmetic skincare formulations,
especially deodourant and/or antiperspirant products that are stable on storage
(especially showing no creaming or leaching), combining ease of application, an
immediate dry, soft, non-wetting and non-tacky feel, and which are effective in the
desired application.
Patent EP 1 550 435 discloses deodourant and/or antiperspirant creams that are
stable on storage, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing a surfactant
consisting of a mixture of alkylpolyglucoside/fatty alcohol combined with a
polyurethane polyether, and which may be conditioned in a grille stick or in a tube.
These formulations do not have the desired soft solid texture.
Patent application WO 2004/1 12 739 describes thick antiperspirant creams having
viscosities ranging from 80 000 to 120 000 mPa.s (5 rpm). The compositions
contain a high level of co-surfactants (glyceryl stearate), which have a tendency to
produce a tacky effect after application. These formulations do not have the
desired soft solid texture.
Henkel patent EP 1 239 822 describes antiperspirant creams containing water,
water-insoluble particulate polysaccharides, at least one antiperspirant active
agent and at least one wax comprising an ester of a Ci6-6o alcohol and of a C8-C36
carboxylic acid. They are in the form of a thick cream with a viscosity of greater
than 50 000 mPa.s (Heliopath, 4 rpm, 2 1°C). These formulations do not have the
desired soft solid texture and the presence of high concentrations of particulate
starch may lead to white marks on the skin and clothing.
We know in the application EP2436369 oil-in-water emulsions based on a mixture
of waxes comprising a) at least one paraffin wax and/or at least one polyethylene
wax, b) at least one monocrystalline wax and c) at least one animal/plant wax
containing an ester of a C20-C32 fatty acid cide and a C28-C3 4 fatty alcohol in the
aim of obtaining creams having a ggod stability on storage, producing onto the
skin an elastic sensation and good resilience and stickyness. The Candelilla was
associated to the waxy components a) and b) do not allow, according to this
document, to obtain a sufficiently stable cream. This document does not suggest
to manufacture compositions having the expected soft-solid texture.
We know in the application DE1 9962878 oil-in-water emulsions with esters waxes
of C18-C60 fatty alcohol and C8-C36 monocarboxylic acid and watersoluble
polysaccharides. In particular, examples 29 and 30 are oil-in-water emulsions with
hydrocarbon oils, non-ionic surfactants having a linear and saturated hydrocarbon
chain comprising at least 16 carbon atoms (ceteareth-20, glycerylstearate), a C20-
C4o ester wax : Kesterwachs C2o-C4o Alkylstearate and a polysaccharide
(hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropylcellulose) and a mixture of fatty
alcohols stearylic alcohol/behenylic alcohol. Those emulsions do not permit to
form soft-solid compositions.
The Applicant has discovered that this objective may be achieved with novel
emulsions forming soft solid compositions, which are stable on storage,
simultaneously having good cosmetic properties: soft feel and immediate dry
sensation, non-wetting freshness, absence of tackiness and non-greasy feel, and
good efficacy in the desired application.
This discovery forms the basis of the invention.
The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water
emulsion, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) a continuous aqueous phase and
B) an oily phase dispersed in the said aqueous phase and comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil;
C) at least one mixture consisting of:
i) at least one nonionic surfactant containing a saturated linear hydrocarbon-based
chain comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, the said surfactant being other than a
fatty alcohol, and
ii) at least one fatty alcohol chosen from:
- a pure fatty alcohol comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;
- a mixture consisting exclusively of fatty alcohols containing at least 16 carbon
atoms and comprising at least 50% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) containing at least
18 atoms; and
D) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than 45°C comprising one or
more C4o-C7o ester compounds and not comprising any C20-C39 ester compounds,
in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition and
E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide; the said composition having a
hardness measured at 32°C and at a humidity of 40% ranging from 20 kPa to 200
kPa and preferably ranging from 25 kPa to 150 kPa.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring
for human keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying to the
surface of the keratin material a composition as defined previously.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating and/or caring
for human keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying to the
surface of the keratin material a composition as defined previously.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human
perspiration and/or perspiration-related body odour, which consists in applying to
the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined previously
comprising at least one deodourant active agent and/or one antiperspirant active
agent.
Other subjects of the invention will emerge later in the description.
The expression "cosmetically acceptable" means compatible with the skin and/or
its appendages or mucous membranes, having a pleasant colour, odour and feel
and not causing any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable
to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
The expression "human keratin materials" means the skin (body, face, area
around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips or mucous
membranes.
The term "antiperspirant" means any substance which has the effect of reducing
the flow of sweat and/or of reducing the sensation of moisture associated with
human sweat, and/or of masking human sweat.
The term "deodourant active agent" refers to any substance that is capable of
masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odour resulting
from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
The term "fatty alcohol" means any non-alkoxylated alcohol comprising a linear
saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain,
the said chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.
The term "hydrocarbon-based chain" means an organic group predominantly
consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
The term "pure fatty alcohol comprising more than 16 carbon atoms" means any
non-alkoxylated alcohol consisting of more than 95% by weight of the said alcohol;
the said alcohol comprising a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular consisting of
a saturated linear alkyl chain comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and a
hydroxyl function.
The term "mixture exclusively consisting of fatty alcohols comprising at least 16
carbon atoms" means any mixture comprising at least two non-alkoxylated
alcohols comprising a linear saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular
consisting of a linear or branched alkyl chain, the said chain comprising at least 16
carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function; the said fatty alcohol mixture containing
less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of C12-C15 fatty
alcohol relative to the total weight of the fatty alcohol mixture, or even being free of
C12-C 15 fatty alcohol.
The term "ester compound" means any organic molecule comprising a linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least
one ester function of formula -COOR in which R represents a hydrocarbon-based
radical, in particular a saturated linear alkyl radical.
The term "wax not comprising any C20-C39 ester compounds" means any wax
containing less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of C20-
C39 ester compounds relative to the weight of the wax, or even being free of C20-
C39 ester compounds.
MELTING POINT
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the
temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as
described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be
measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the
calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature
rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled
from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a
second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of
5°C/minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference
between the power absorbed by the empty crucible and the power absorbed by
the crucible containing the sample of surfactant or wax as a function of the
temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the temperature
value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation
in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
HARDNESS
The compositions according to the invention have a hardness measured at 32°C
and at a humidity of 40% ranging from 20 kPa to 200 kPa and preferably ranging
from 25 kPa to 150 kPa.
The hardness is defined as the maximum stress force Fmax measured by
texturometry during the penetration of a cylindrical probe into the sample of
formula, assessed under precise measurement conditions as follows.
The formulae are poured hot into jars 9 cm in diameter and 3 cm deep (i.e.:
"Favorit Soft" jars from RPC Bramlage GmbH). Cooling is carried out at room
temperature. The hardness of the formulae produced is measured after an interval
of 24 hours. The jars containing the samples are characterized by texturometry
using a texturometer such as the TA-XT2 machine sold by the company Rheo,
according to the following protocol:
At a temperature of 32°C and at a relative humidity of 40%, a cylindrical stainlesssteel
probe with a spindle 2 cm in diameter is brought into contact with the sample
at a speed of 1 mm/s. The measurement system detects the interface with the
sample, with a detection threshold equal to 0.005 newton. The probe sinks 1 mm
into the sample, at a rate of 0.1 mm/s. The measuring device records the change
in the force measured in compression over time, during the penetration phase.
The hardness of the sample corresponds to the mean of the maximum values of
the force detected during the penetration, over at least three measurements. After
a measurement, the relaxation time is 1 second, and the probe is withdrawn at a
speed of 1 mm/s.
The hardness of the composition is calculated via the following equation:
hardness = —
Cy Undersurface
MIXTURE OF SURFACTANTS AND OF FATTY ALCOHOL
Nonionic surfactants
The nonionic surfactants in accordance with the invention contain a saturated
linear hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, preferably
ranging from 16 to 26 and more preferentially from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
Among the nonionic surfactants, examples that may be mentioned include:
- alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises at least 16 carbon
atoms;
- alkoxylated (preferably ethoxylated) fatty alcohols comprising at least 16
carbon atoms;
- polyglyceryl fatty esters containing a chain comprising at least 16 carbon
atoms;
- mixtures thereof.
The alkylpolyglucosides generally correspond to the following structure:
R(0)(G)x
in which the radical R is a linear alkyl radical containing at least 16 carbon atoms,
preferably ranging from 16 to 26 and more preferentially from 16 to 22 carbon
atoms, G is a saccharide residue and x ranges from 1 to 5, preferably from 1.05 to
2.5 and more preferentially from 1.1 to 2 .
The saccharide residue may be chosen from glucose, dextrose, saccharose,
fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose,
dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose and starch. More
preferentially, the saccharide residue denotes glucose.
It should also be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide part of the
alkylpolyglycoside may be in a or b isomer form, in L or D form, and the
configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type.
It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkylpolysaccharides, which may differ
from each other in the nature of the borne alkyl unit and/or the nature of the
bearing polysaccharide chain.
Among the alkylpolyglucosides that may be used according to the invention,
mention may be made of arachidylpolyglucoside, such as that present in the
commercial product Montanov 202® from the company SEPPIC, and
cetearylglucoside, such as that in the commercial product Tegocare CG90® from
the company Evonik.
Among the ethoxylated fatty alcohols that may be used according to the invention,
mention may be made of Beheneth-1 0, such as the commercial product Eumulgin
BA 10 from Cognis.
Among the polyglyceryl fatty esters, mention may be made of polyglyceryl-6
behenate, such as the commercial product Pelemol 6G22® from Phoenix
Chemical or polyglyceryl-1 0 behenate/eicosadiate, such as the commercial
product Nomcort HK-P® from Nisshin Oillio.
Use will be made more particularly of alkylpolyglucosides and preferably C16-C1 8
alkylpolyglucosides such as cetearylglucoside, and C20-C22 alkylpolyglucosides
such as arachidylpolyglucoside, and more particularly arachidylpolyglucoside.
Fatty alcohols
The fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention are chosen from:
- a pure fatty alcohol comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;
- a mixture of fatty alcohols containing at least 16 carbon atoms and comprising at
least 50% by weight of fatty alcohol(s) containing at least 18 atoms.
Mixtures of fatty alcohols containing at least 18 atoms will be chosen more
particularly.
The pure fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing more than 16
carbon atoms preferably comprise from 18 to 26 carbon atoms and more
preferentially from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.
Among the pure fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing more
than 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made of:
- stearyl alcohol, such as the commercial product Kalcol 80-98® from Kao,
- arachidyl alcohol, such as the commercial products Hainol 20SS® from the
company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. Ltd and Nacol 20-95® from the company
Sasol Germany GMBH (Hamburg),
- behenyl alcohol, such as the commercial products Nacol 22-97® and Nacol 22-
98® from the company Sasol Germany GMBH (Hamburg),
- and mixtures thereof.
The mixtures of fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing more
than 16 carbon atoms preferably comprise from 16 to 26 carbon atoms and more
preferentially from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. They contain at least 50% fatty
alcohol(s) comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 50% to 100% and
more preferentially from 70% to 100% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty
alcohol mixture.
Among the mixtures of fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention containing at
least 16 carbon atoms and at least 50% by weight relative to the weight of the fatty
alcohol mixture, mention may be made of
- a cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) comprising at
least 50% by weight of stearyl alcohol relative to the weight of the fatty alcohol
mixture, such as the mixture comprising 70% by weight of C18 fatty alcohol(s) and
30% by weight of Ci6 fatty alcohol(s), such as the commercial product Nafol 16 18
S® (Sasol Germany GmbH Hamburg),
- mixtures based on at least one C22 fatty alcohol, at least one C20 fatty alcohol and
at least one C18 fatty alcohol,
- a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
Among the mixtures based on at least one C22 fatty alcohol, at least one C20 fatty
alcohol and at least one C18 fatty alcohol, mention may be made of:
- the mixture comprising 77% by weight of C22 fatty alcohol(s), 18% by weight of
C20 fatty alcohol(s) and 5% by weight of C18 fatty alcohol(s), such as the
commercial product Nafol 1822 C Alcohol® (Sasol Germany GmbH Hamburg) or
the commercial product Lanette 22® (Cognis Corporation Care Chemicals);
- the mixture comprising 80% by weight of C22 fatty alcohol(s), 10% by weight of
C20 fatty alcohol(s) and 10% by weight of C18 fatty alcohol(s), such as the
commercial product Behenyl Alcohol 80® (Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. Ltd);
- the mixture comprising 44% by weight of C22 fatty alcohol(s), 11% by weight of
C20 fatty alcohol(s) and 43% by weight of C18 fatty alcohol(s), such as the
commercial product Nafol 1822 Alcohol® (Sasol Germany GmbH Hamburg);
- the mixture comprising 6% by weight of C24 fatty alcohol(s), 30% by weight of C22
fatty alcohol(s), 58% by weight of C20 fatty alcohol(s) and 7% by weight of C18 fatty
alcohol(s), such as the commercial product Nafol 20-22 EN (Sasol Germany
GmbH Hamburg)
As mixture of nonionic surfactant and of fatty alcohol in accordance with the
invention, use will preferentially be made of one of the following mixtures:
- a cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) comprising at least
50% by weight of stearyl alcohol relative to the weight of the fatty alcohol
mixture, cetearylglucoside such as that of the product Tegocare CG90®
and behenyl alcohol,
- a cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) comprising at least
50% by weight of stearyl alcohol relative to the weight of the fatty alcohol
mixture, and cetearylglucoside such as that of the product Tegocare
CG90®,
- a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidylglucoside, such
as the commercial product Montanov 202® from the company SEPPIC.
Use will be made more particularly of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl
alcohol/arachidylglucoside, such as the commercial product Montanov 202® from
the company SEPPIC.
The fatty alcohol/nonionic surfactant mixture is preferably present in the emulsions
in accordance with the invention in active material concentrations ranging from 1%
to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 2% to 7% by weight relative to the
total weight of the emulsion.
The fatty alcohol/nonionic surfactant mixture preferably contains more than 50%
by weight of fatty alcohol(s) and more preferentially more than 70% by weight of
fatty alcohol(s) relative to the total weight of the said fatty alcohol/nonionic
surfactant mixture.
Waxes
The wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a
lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid
reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C,
preferably ranging from 45 to 95°C and more particularly ranging from 45 to 85°C.
The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are
chosen from waxes with a melting point of greater than 45°C comprising one or
more C4o-C7o ester compounds and not comprising any C20-C39 ester compounds.
The waxes according to the invention may also be used in the form of a mixture of
waxes.
The content of ester comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms and preferably ranges
from 20% to 100% by weight and preferably from 20% to 90% by weight relative to
the total weight of wax(es).
Use will be made more particularly of candelilla wax and/or beeswax.
The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content
preferably ranging from 2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
WATER-SOLUBLE POLYSACCHARIDES
The term "polysaccharide" means any polymer consisting of several saccharides
(or monosaccharides) having the general formula:
-[Cx(H2O)y)]n- (in which y is generally x - 1)
and linked together via O-oside bonds.
The water-soluble polysaccharides that may be used in the present invention are
especially chosen from starches, gellans, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, konjac,
agar, and celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose,
and mixtures thereof.
Starches are preferentially used.
The "term water-soluble" means partially or totally soluble in water to give a gelled
or thickened solution at a concentration of 1% active material in water, after
implementation with or without heating.
The starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly
macromolecules in the form of polymers formed from elemental units that are
anhydroglucose units. The number of these units and their assembly make it
possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched
polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their degree
of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches. The
amylose/amylopectin weight ratio may range from 30/70 (corn) to 16/84 (rice). The
molecular weight of the amylose is preferably up to 1 million by weight and that of
the amylopectin is preferably from 00 to 500 million by weight.
The starch molecules used in the present invention may be unmodified or
chemically or physically modified.
Their botanical origin may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the natural starches may be
chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, cassava starch, barley starch,
potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, palm starch and pea starch.
Among the unmodified starches, mention may be made of unmodified corn
starches (INCI name: Zea mays starch), for instance the products sold under the
trade name Farmal CS®, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650®
from the company Corn Products International.
Mention may also be made of unmodified rice starches (INCI name: Oryza sativa
(rice) starch), for instance the commercial product Remy DR I® sold by the
company Beneo-Remy.
According to a particular form of the invention, starches used are modified by
crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of
the starch molecules, which will thus bond together (for example with glyceryl
and/or phosphate groups).
Monostarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(OX)2), distarch phosphates (of the
type St-O-PO-(OX)-O-St) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type
St-O-PO-(O-St) 2) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking
with phosphorus compounds.
X especially denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkalineearth
metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts,
for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-
amino-1 ,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such
as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.
The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate,
sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
Use will preferentially be made of distarch phosphates or of compounds rich in
distarch phosphate, in particular the distarch phosphate hydroxypropyl ethers
having the INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, for instance the products
sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C or Farmal MS 689® from the
company Avebe Stadex; the products sold under the trade names Structure
BTC®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or Structure Zea® from National Starch
(corn distarch phosphate).
Preferentially, the starch will be chosen from unmodified corn starches, unmodified
rice starches and corn distarch phosphates, or mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, starch will be chosen from corn distarch phosphates.
According to the invention, the water-soluble polysaccharide(s) may preferably
represent from 0.5% to 6% by weight and more particularly from 1% to 4% by
weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
AQUEOUS PHASE
The term "aqueous phase" means a phase comprising water and generally any
molecule in dissolved form in water in the composition.
The aqueous phase of the said compositions comprises water and generally other
water-soluble or water-miscible solvents. The water-soluble or water-miscible
solvents comprise monoalcohols with a short chain, for example of Ci-C 4, such as
ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, for instance ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene
glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,
2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol
monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Propylene glycol, glycerol and 1,3-propanediol will
be used more particularly.
The concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 50% to 90% by
weight and preferably from 60% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
OILY PHASE
The compositions according to the invention contain at least one water-immiscible
organic liquid phase, known as an oily phase. This phase generally comprises one
or more hydrophobic compounds that make said phase water-immiscible. The said
phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20-
25°C).
Preferentially, the water-immiscible organic-liquid organic phase in accordance
with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based oil and optionally at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone
oil.
The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C)
and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 105 Pa). The oil may be volatile or no n
volatile.
For the purpose of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil that is capable
of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at
room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are
volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and which have a nonzero
vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in
particular from 0.1 3 Pa to 40 000 Pa ( 10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from
1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3
Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre
at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that
especially has a vapour pressure of less than 10 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
The oils in accordance with the invention are preferably chosen from any
cosmetically acceptable oil, especially mineral, animal, plant or synthetic oils,
especially hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing carbon and
hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester,
ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of from 0.5 to
100 000 mPa.s and preferably from 50 to 50 000 mPa.s and more preferably from
100 to 30 OOO mPa.s.
The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising in its structure carbon atoms and at
least one silicon atom.
As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made of:
- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing
from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin
(also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-
pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold
under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters and isohexyl
neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Use may also be made of other volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold
under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell; and volatile linear alkanes, such
as those described in patent application DE 10 2008 0 12 457 from Cognis.
Among the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, use will preferably be made of alkanes
such as isohexadecane and isododecane.
As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the
invention, mention may be made of:
- hydrocarbon-based plant oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 24
carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or else wheatgerm
oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil,
poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose
oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower
oil, musk rose oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grape seed oil,
sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, castor oil, avocado oil,
caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or
those sold under the names Miglyol 8 10, 8 12 and 8 18 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil
or shea butter oil;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether;
- synthetic esters, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formula
R1COOR2 in which R represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue
containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based
chain, which is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with R
+ R2 > 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate,
isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate,
diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl
stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate;
alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance
propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate,
octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl
citrate, and fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, for
instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate o diethylene
glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl
tetraisostearate;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid
paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes,
hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane,
- fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature and which comprise a
branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 2 to 26 carbon
atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol,
2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;
- higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
- carbonates;
- acetates;
- citrates.
Among the volatile silicones, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic
silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity £ 8 centistokes (8 10 6 m2/s) and
especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As
volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made
especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane,
decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of the volatile linear alkyltrisiloxane oils of general
formula (I):
in which R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, of which
one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
As examples of non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear or cyclic
non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising
alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain,
these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl
siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-
phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates, and mixtures thereof. Use will be made more
particularly of a linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS).
Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based
oil and optionally at least one non-volatile silicone oil.
The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil will preferably be chosen from
triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, fatty acid esters such as
isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate or isostearyl isostearate, ethers such
as dicaprylyl ether, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly isopropyl palmitate
and isononyl isononanoate, such as the commercial product Dub IPP® sold by the
company Stearineries Dubois.
The hydrocarbon-based oil(s) will preferably be present in the composition in
concentrations ranging from 5% to 30% by weight and more preferentially ranging
from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The concentration of the oily phase preferably ranges from 10% to 30% relative to
the total weight of the composition.
According to a particular form of the invention, the composition may also contain at
least one nonionic associative polymer and/or a diester of polyethylene glycol and
of a fatty acid.
ASSOCIATIVE NONIONIC POLYMER
According to a particularly preferred form, the compositions also comprise at least
one nonionic associative polymer.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymers" means
hydrophilic polymers that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly
associating with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more
particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic region and at least one hydrophobic
region.
The term "hydrophobic group" is understood to mean a radical or polymer
comprising a saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched hydrocarbon-based
chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical, it
comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 0 to 30 carbon atoms, in
particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30
carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a
monofunctional compound.
By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol,
such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a
polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as Steareth-1 00. It may also denote a
hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:
- celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, for instance
hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain,
such as alkyl groups, especially of C8-C22, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as
Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon,
- celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether groups, such as the
product Amercell Polymer HM-1 500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether)
sold by the company Amerchol,
- guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups comprising at least one
fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,
- inulins modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl
carbamate inulins and in particular the lauryl carbamate inulin sold by the
company Orafti under the name Inutec SP1 ,
- diesters of polyethylene glycol and of a fatty acid, such as polyethylene glycol
( 150 OE) distearate, for instance PEG-1 50 distearate sold under the trade name
Emcol L 32-45® by Witco,
- associative polyurethanes.
Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain
both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature (polyurethanes may also
be referred to as polyurethane polyethers), and hydrophobic blocks that may be
aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.
In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic
chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the
hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of
the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to
be provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at
one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock or multiblock form.
The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example:
triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the
ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These polymers may
also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes
are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain
comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative
polyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence
arises the name.
According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of
polyurethane type is used as gelling agent.
As examples of nonionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in
the invention, it is also possible to use Rheolate® FX 1100 (Steareth-1 00/PEG
136/HDI (hexamethyl diisocyanate) copolymer), Rheolate® 205® containing a
urea function, sold by the company Elementis, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and
also Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol RM 2020®.
Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T21 0® containing a C 12-C14
alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T21 2® containing a C 16-1 8 alkyl chain (PPG-
14 Palmeth-60 Hexyl Dicarbamate) from Akzo.
The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a
urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.
Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in
water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be
mentioned are Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by the
company Elementis. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW
1206J sold by the company Rohm & Haas.
The associative polyurethanes that may be used according to the invention are in
particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen -
Colloid Polym. Sci., 271 , 380-389 (1993).
Even more particularly, according to the invention, use may also be made of a
polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three
compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to
180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one
diisocyanate.
Such polyurethane polyethers are sold especially by the company Rohm & Haas
under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®. Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of
polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol
and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a
matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %) ; Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of
polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol
and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a
mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].
Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in
water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be
mentioned include Rheolate FX1 0 10®, Rheolate FX1 035® and Rheolate1 070®
from the company Elementis, and Rheolate 255®, Rheolate 278® and Rheolate
244® sold by the company Elementis. Use may also be made of the products
Aculyn 44, Aculyn 46®, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, and also Acrysol RM 184
from the company Rohm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44® from the
company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.
Use will be made more particularly of an associative nonionic polyurethane
polyether such as the product sold especially by the company Elementis under the
name Rheolate FX 1100®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol
containing 136 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with
100 mol of ethylene oxide and of hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weightaverage
molecular weight of 30 000 (INCI name: PEG-1 36/Steareth-1 00l/SMDI
Copolymer).
The amount of associative nonionic polymer(s) as active material may range, for
example, from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25% to 6% by weight and
better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
ADDITIVES
The compositions according to the invention may also furthermore comprise
additional cosmetic and dermatological active agents.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise cosmetic
adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preserving agents, polymers,
fragrances, thickeners, sunscreens, dermatological or cosmetic active agents,
fillers, suspension agents, dyestuffs or any other ingredient usually used in
cosmetics for this type of application.
Among the fillers, mention may be made of talc, kaolin, silicas, clays, perlite and
water-insoluble particulate starches.
Among the silicas, mention may be made of:
Among the silicas, mention may be made of:
- porous silica microspheres, especially porous silica microspheres. The porous
spherical silica microparticles preferably have a mean particle size ranging from
0.5 to 20 miti and more particularly from 3 to 15 miti . They preferably have a
specific surface area ranging from 50 to 1000 m2/g and more particularly from 150
to 800 m2/g. They preferably have a specific pore volume ranging from 0.5 to 5
ml/g and more particularly from 1 to 2 ml/g. As examples of porous silica
microbeads, use may be made of the following commercial products:
Silica Beads SB 150® from Miyoshi
Sunsphere H-51®; Sunsphere H53® and Sunsphere H33® from Asahi Glass
MSS-500-3H® from the company Kobo
Sunsil 130® from Sunjin
Spherica P-1 500® from Ikeda Corporation
Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia;
- polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those
sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33,
- amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica
Shells by the company Kobo.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these
optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically
associated with the cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention are not,
or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).
The dermatological or cosmetic active agents may be chosen especially from
moisturizers, desquamating agents, agents for improving the barrier function,
depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermo-decontracting agents, anti-glycation
agents, agents for stimulating the synthesis of dermal and/or epidermal
macromolecules and/or for preventing their degradation, agents for stimulating
fibroblast or keratinocyte proliferation and/or keratinocyte differentiation, agents for
promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, NO-synthase inhibitors,
peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents for increasing the
activity of the sebaceous glands, agents for stimulating the energy metabolism of
cells, tensioning agents, lipo-restructuring agents, slimming agents, agents for
promoting the cutaneous capillary circulation, calmatives and/or anti-irritants,
sebo-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic agents, astringents, cicatrizing agents, ant i
inflammatory agents, keratolytic agents, agents for preventing hair regrowth and
antiacne agents.
GALENICAL FORMS
The compositions according to the invention are in the form of a soft solid stick
whose consistency may vary as a function of the desired application, the region of
human keratin material to be treated and the desired conditioning, such as a
cosmetic product for caring for, holding or colouring the skin or the hair, or a body
hygiene product, especially such as a deodourant and/or antiperspirant.
CONDITIONING
The compositions of the invention may especially be conditioned in a tube, in a
device equipped with a perforated wall, especially a grille. In this regard, they
comprise the ingredients generally used in products of this type, which are well
known to a person skilled in the art.
DEODOURANT AND/OR ANTIPERSPIRANT COMPOSITIONS
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human
perspiration and/or perspiration-related body odour, which consists in applying to
the surface of a human keratin material a composition as defined previously
comprising at least one deodourant active agent and/or one antiperspirant active
agent.
The compositions in accordance with the invention may thus be used as
deodorants and/or antiperspirants and may contain at least one deodorant active
agent and/or one antiperspirant active agent.
Additional antiperspirant salts or complexes
The aluminium and/or zirconium antiperspirant salts or complexes are preferably
chosen from aluminium halohydrates; aluminium zirconium halohydrates,
complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride with or
without an amino acid, such as those described in patent US-3 792 068.
Among the aluminium salts, mention may be made in particular of aluminium
chlorohydrate in activated or unactivated form, aluminium chlorohydrex, the
aluminium chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium chlorohydrexpropylene
glycol complex, aluminium dichlorohydrate, the aluminium
dichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium dichlorohydrexpropylene
glycol complex, aluminium sesquichlorohydrate, the aluminium
sesquichlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol complex, the aluminium
sesquichlorohydrex-propylene glycol complex, aluminium sulfate buffered with
sodium aluminium lactate.
Among the aluminium-zirconium salts, mention may be made in particular of
aluminium zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate,
aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate and aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate.
The complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and of aluminium hydroxychloride
with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
Among these products, mention may be made of the aluminium zirconium
octachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, the aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrexglycine
complexes, the aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes
and the aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex-glycine complexes.
The aluminium and/or zirconium antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present
in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 0.5% by
weight and preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition.
Deodorant active agents
The compositions according to the invention may also furthermore contain one or
more additional deodorant active agents.
The term "deodorant active agent" refers to any substance that is capable of
masking, absorbing, improving and/or reducing the unpleasant odour resulting
from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.
The deodorant agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericides that act on
underarm odour microorganisms, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether
(®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3',4',5'-trichlorosalicylanilide,
1-(3',4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,1 1-
trimethyldodeca-2,5,1 0-trienol (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as
cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA ( 1 ,3-
diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2-decanediol (Symclariol from the company
Symrise), glycerol derivatives, for instance caprylic/capric glycerides (Capmul
MCM from Abitec), glyceryl caprylate or caprate (Dermosoft GMCY and Dermosoft
GMC, respectively from Straetmans), polyglyceryl-2 caprate (Dermosoft DGMC
from Straetmans), and biguanide derivatives, for instance polyhexamethylene
biguanide salts; chlorhexidine and salts thereof; 4-phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol
(Symdeo MPP from Symrise); cyclodextrins.
Among the deodorant active agents in accordance with the invention, mention may
also be made of
- zinc salts, for instance zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate, zinc pidolate; zinc sulfate,
zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; zinc ricinoleate;
- sodium bicarbonate;
- salicylic acid and derivatives thereof such as 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid;
- zeolites, especially silver-free metallic zeolites;
- alum;
- triethyl citrate.
The deodorant active agents may preferably be present in the compositions
according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are
given as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
The examples were prepared according to the following protocol:
- the aqueous phase containing the gelling agents or thickeners and the aluminium
salts is heated to 80°C;
- the waxes and the surfactant mixture are heated with the oils to 80°C;
- the two phases are mixed together and sheared in a Rayneri blender for 10
minutes;
- the filler is then added while mixing with a Rayneri deflocculator;
- the composition is hot-cast into the packs.
The appearance and the homogeneity of the products are evaluated visually 24
hours after manufacture.
Examples 1 and 2 : Sensory tests
Composition 1
(invention)
Phase Ingredients Soft solid O W
emulsion
Arachidylglucoside/behenyl alcohol/arachidyl
alcohol 3
(Montanov 202®)
Isopropyl palmitate
10
(Palmitate Dub IPP®)
A
Dimethicone (10 cSt)
10
(Elements PDMS 10-A®)
Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax
3
(Candelilla Wax SP 75 G®)
Fragrance 1
Zea mays (corn) starch
3 B (Corn starch B)
Oryza sativa (rice) starch 1.5
The composition was compared with composition 2 (outside the invention)
corresponding to the commercial antiperspirant product sold under the name:
Secret Clinical Strength Antiperspirant/Deodourant® which is an anhydrous soft
solid composition.
List of ingredients indicated on the conditioning:
Aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex GLY (20%)
CyclopentasiloxaneCyclopentasiloxaneCyclopentasiloxane
Dimethicone
Tribehenin
Petrolatum
Cyclodextrin
C 18-36 acid triglyceride
Fragrance
PPG-14 butyl ether
Sensory test protocol
Parameters: Cosmetic qualities and defects of the formulations
Experimental programme: Sequential monadic (use of one product at a time for
three consecutive days), random distribution
Panel: 11 women, from 25 to 60 years old, daily users of roll-on antiperspirant.
The products presented in grille sticks are evaluated under the armpits with free
application (at home).
Feedback is given after 4 days of use of each formulation.
At the end of the test, 7 out of the 11 women preferred formulation 1 for its ease of
application and its faster drying. Composition 1 according to the invention has a
creamier, less thick texture, is more glidant on the armpit and penetrates more
easily.

Examples 3 to 5 : Influence of the choice of wax
Formulations 3 to 5 below were prepared:
A formulation 3 according to the invention comprising, as wax, candelilla wax with
a melting point of 64.3°C and a C42-C6 4 ester content of 22-32% was compared
with:
a formulation 4 outside the invention comprising esters containing less than 30
carbons;
a formulation 5 outside the invention comprising an ester-free polyethylene wax.
Examples 3 to 5 were prepared under the same conditions as Example 1.
Stability test conditions to be completed
The results showed that formulation 3 according to the invention comprising
candelilla wax has a soft solid appearance and remains stable after 24 hours at
25°C, in contrast with formulation 4 comprising an ester containing less than 30
carbons and formulation 5 with polyethylene wax.
Examples 6 to 10: Influence of the choice of the nonionic surfactant/fatty
alcohol mixture
The following emulsions were prepared, each comprising an
alkylpolyglycoside/fatty alcohol mixture and, as common wax: beeswax with a
melting point of 62°C and a content of ester containing at least 40 carbon atoms of
7 1% by weight.
Examples 6 to 10 were prepared under the same conditions as Example 1 and
their stability was controlled according to the method indicated in the same
Example 1.
The results showed that Examples 6 to 8 according to the invention comprising
mixture of a nonionic surfactant and a mixture of fatty alcohols comprising at least
16 carbon atoms and comprising at least 50% by weight of fatty alcohol(s)
comprising at least 18 carbon atoms are soft solids that are stable on storage, in
contrast with:
1) composition 9 containing a mixture of nonionic surfactant and a mixture of fatty
alcohols comprising 46% by weight of Cis fatty alcohol (Montanov 68®);
2) example 10 containing a mixture of nonionic surfactant and a mixture of fatty
alcohols comprising at least one C fatty alcohol (Montanov L®).
Examples 6 and 11: influence of the presence of polysaccharide
Examples 6 and 11 were prepared under the same conditions as Example 1 and
their stability was controlled according to the method indicated in the same
Example 1. The results showed that Example 6 of the invention comprising a
starch was soft-solid and stable on storage, in contrast with Example 11 which is
starch-free.
Examples 12 and 13: influence of the oily phase
Examples 12 and 13 were prepared under the same conditions as Example 1 and
their stability was controlled according to the method indicated in the same
Example 1.
The results showed that Example 13 of the invention comprising a hydrocarbonbased
oil was soft-solid and stable on storage, in contrast with Example 12 which
is free of hydrocarbon-based oil.
Example 14 was prepared under the same conditions as Example 1 and its
stability was controlled according to the method indicated in the same Example 1.
The results showed that Example 14 outside the invention comprising, as a wax, a
C2o-C4o alkyl Stearate Kesterwachs is unstable on storage and is not soft-solid.
Examples 15 and 16 were prepared under the same conditions as Example 1 and
their stability was controlled according to the method indicated in the same
Example 1.
The results showed that Example 15 of the invention comprising Candelilla Wax at
3% by weight was soft-solid and stable on storage, in contrast with Example 16
comprising Candelilla Wax in an amount less than 1% by weight (0.6%).
Exemple 17
according to
example 4 of
Ingredients EP2436369
(outside the
invention)
WATER qsp 100
XANTHAN GUM 0.05
CARBOMER
0.1 0
GLYCERIN 3.00
BUTYLENE GLYCOL 8.00
PHENOXYETHANOL 0.50
SODIUM CITRATE 0.09
POLYVINYL ALCOHOL 0.20
SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE 0.20
CITRIC ACID 0.01
GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 0.30
DIMETHICONE
1.00
AERYTHRITYL TETRAETHYLHEXANOATE 2.00
MINERAL OIL 4.50
EIS GUINEENSIS (PALM) OIL 0.50
BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0,80
CANDELLILA WAX 0.20
MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX 0.08
POLYETHYLENE WAX 0,32
Hardness (kPa) Not measurable
Fluid, shiny,
Appareance smooth cream
Example 17 was prepared under the same conditions as Example 1.

CLAIMS
1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a
cosmetically acceptable medium:
A) a continuous aqueous phase and
B) an oily phase dispersed in the said aqueous phase and comprising at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil;
C) at least one mixture consisting of:
i) at least one nonionic surfactant containing a saturated linear hydrocarbon-based
chain comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, the said surfactant being other than a
fatty alcohol, and
ii) at least one fatty alcohol chosen from:
- a pure fatty alcohol comprising more than 16 carbon atoms;
- a mixture consisting exclusively of fatty alcohols containing at least 16 carbon
atoms and comprising at least 50% by weight of fatty alcohol containing at least 18
atoms relative to the weight of the fatty alcohol mixture; and
D) at least one wax with a melting point of greater than 45°C comprising one or
more C4o-C7o ester compounds and not comprising any C20-C39 ester compounds,
in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition and
E) at least one water-soluble polysaccharide; the said composition having a
hardness measured at 32°C and at a humidity of 40% ranging from 20 kPa to 200
kPa and preferably ranging from 25 kPa to 150 kPa.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants
are chosen from:
- alkylpolyglucosides in which the alkyl chain comprises at least 16 carbon
atoms;
- ethoxylated fatty alcohols comprising at least 16 carbon atoms;
- polyglyceryl fatty esters containing a chain comprising at least 16 carbon
atoms;
- mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the nonionic
surfactant with a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 16 carbon atoms is
chosen from alkylpolyglycosides and more particularly C6-C18 alkylpolyglucosides
such as cetearylglucoside and C20-C22 alkylpolyglucosides such as
arachidylpolyglucoside and even more particularly arachidylpolyglucoside.
4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the fatty alcohol is
chosen from:
(i) the following pure fatty alcohols: stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl
alcohol, and mixtures thereof;
(ii) the following mixtures of fatty alcohols:
- a cetearyl alcohol comprising at least 50% by weight of stearyl alcohol relative to
the weight of the fatty alcohol mixture,
- mixtures based on at least one C22 fatty alcohol, at least one C20 fatty alcohol and
at least one Cis fatty alcohol,
- a mixture of behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol.
5. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the
mixture of nonionic surfactant and of fatty alcohol is chosen from:
- a mixture of cetearyl alcohol comprising at least 50% by weight of stearyl alcohol
relative to the weight of the fatty alcohol mixture, cetearylglucoside and behenyl
alcohol,
- a mixture comprising at least one cetearyl alcohol comprising at least 50% by
weight of stearyl alcohol relative to the weight of the fatty alcohol mixture and
cetearylglucoside,
- a mixture of arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and arachidylglucoside.
6. Composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that the mixture of nonionic
surfactant and of fatty alcohol is a mixture of behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol
and arachidylpolyglucoside.
7. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 and 6, characterized in that the
wax is chosen from candelilla wax, rice bran wax, beeswax and sunflower wax,
and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the
hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are present in concentrations ranging from 5% to 30% by
weight and more preferentially from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the oily
phase comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and optionally at
least one non-volatile silicone oil.
10. Composition according to Claim 9, in which the non-volatile hydrocarbonbased
oil is chosen from triglycerides, fatty acid esters, ethers and mixtures
thereof, and more particularly isopropyl palmitate.
11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the
concentration of the oily phase ranges from 0% to 30% relative to the total weight
of the composition and the concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges
from 50% to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the
water-soluble polysaccharide is chosen from starches and more particularly
chosen from unmodified corn starches, unmodified rice starches and corn distarch
phosphates, or mixtures thereof.
13. Composition according to Claim 12, in which the starch is a distarch
phosphate.
14. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that the
water-soluble polysaccharide(s) represent from 0.5% to 6% by weight and more
particularly from 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
15. Connposition according to any one of Clainns 1 to 14, characterized in that the
wax(es) with a melting point of greater than 45°C comprising one or more C4o-C7o
ester compounds and not comprising any C20-C39 ester compounds represent from
2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it
also comprises at least one nonionic associative polymer and preferably an
associative nonionic polyurethane polyether.
17. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 15, characterized in that it also
comprises at least one antiperspirant active agent and/or one deodorant active
agent.
18. Cosmetic process for treating and/or caring for human keratin materials,
characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the keratin material a
composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
19. Cosmetic process for treating human perspiration and/or perspiration-related
body odour, which consists in applying to the surface of a human keratin material
a composition as defined in Claim 17 .