Description:STABILIZED SOAP-SURFACTANT MIXED BASE FOAMING CLEANSER COMPOSITIONS

The present invention relates to stable cleanser soap-surfactant mixed base compositions. More specifically, the present invention relates to compositions stable at high temperatures and comprising at least one low HLB emulsifier.

There is an emerging requirement of developing soap-surfactant ‘mixed base’ cleansers to provide the consumers with the benefits of both soap base and surfactant base cleansers. A mixed base cleanser formula provides potential for significant cost savings and ease of upscaling. However, the phase stabilization of a soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser formula is inherently complex as compared to its two counterparts individually – a pure soap base and a pure surfactant base. The concern on stability primarily pertains to the high temperature storage of the formulas. The presence of skin cooling actives e.g. menthol may add up to the complexity of formulating stable cleanser compositions.
The available prior-art like patent EP0137616B1 deals with liquid detergent composition comprising non-soap detersive surfactant, C12-C18 fatty acid or soap and micro-emulsion stabilizer and having an HLB of from 2-5 which increases stability of formulations. However the pH range of the product described in the patent is from 6.5 to 8, and does not hold good for higher pH ranges from 8.4 to 9. Patent application WO0018357A1 deals with self-emulsifying water-in-oil emulsion comprising emulsifiers (with an HLB value in the range from 2.5 to 10) selected from glycerol diesters and metal soaps; such emulsions are stable at room/high temperatures. But this composition does not include any amphoteric or ionic surfactant which further adds to the complexity of high temperature stability. Patent application US5674511A deals with a lathering skin cleansing liquid composition comprising 0 to 15 % of C8 to C14 fatty acid soap, synthetic surfactant and a crystalline ethylene glycol fatty acid ester as a stabilizer to provide stability. Patent application JP2005097190A deals with a weakly acidic liquid skin cleanser comprising fatty acid soap, amino acid based surfactants and pearl agent (selected from ethylene glycol distearate); the liquid composition is stable at normal temperature range (5~40 °C; Degree Celsius). But at higher alkaline pH, notably ranging from pH 8.4 to 9, the high temperature stability is challenging, even more so in presence of a cooling agents like menthol, for example in the range of 0.5 -1%. Patent US8034755B deals with oil-in-water emulsified composition comprising fatty acid soap and nonionic surfactants with HLB of 2-10 and the composition has good stability. However the composition discussed therein contains one or more non-ionic surfactants between HLB value 2 – 10 and between HLB values 10 - 17. Patent application US3923970A discloses an aqueous soap emulsion with an emulsifier being a sorbitan ester, having an HLB of 1-9, exhibiting good emulsion stability. But the composition described in this patent application has a low amount of soap 4 – 16 %. Patent application JP2000290148A deals with high temperature storage stable liquid detergent compositions containing anionic/cationic surfactants, crystal pearl agent (selected from ethylene glycol distearate) and Sorbitol. But this composition does not include any fatty acid soap.

One aim of the present invention is to overcome the technical problem of providing a stable soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser composition.
In particular, one of the aims of the present invention is to overcome the technical problem of improving the high temperature storage stability of such compositions, especially at 37°C or even at 45°C, notably measured at 1 month or even at 2 months.
Another aim of the present invention is to overcome the technical problem of providing a stable soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser composition with pH ranging from 8.4 to 9.
Another aim of the present invention is to overcome the technical problem of providing a stable soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser composition comprising an amphoteric and/or an ionic surfactant, which compositions are difficult to stabilize at high temperature, especially at 37°C or even at 45°C.
Another aim of the invention is to overcome the technical problem of providing a stable soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser composition comprising a cooling agent for example like menthol. It is difficult to stabilize such compositions at high temperature, especially at 37°C or even at 45°C.
Another aim of the invention is to overcome the technical problem of providing a stable soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser composition comprising a cooling agent, for example like menthol having an alkaline pH, especially ranging from pH 8.4 to 90. It is difficult to stabilize such compositions at high temperature, especially at 37°C or even at 45°C, especially in presence of a cooling agent, like menthol in the range of 0.5 -1%.
Another aim of the invention is to solve the above recited technical problems while providing a low cost stable soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser composition.
One aim of e invention is to solve the above recited technical problems with less energy consumption during preparation of the composition and easier industrialization.

It has been surprisingly discovered that a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- 15 to 50 % of one or more soap,
- at least one ionic surfactant,
- at least one polyol,
- filler,
- more than 4% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- - at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally a skin cooling agent,
wherein said percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition provides high temperature storage stability, especially at 37°C or even at 45 °C, with a pH ranging from 8.4 to 9, while keeping high foaming properties of the composition.

Foaming composition
According to one embodiment of the invention, a foaming composition contains surfactants and soap notably to impart foam during product application on the skin and removal of impurities (like particulates and sebum from skin). In addition to that, the presence of both soap and one or more ionic surfactant gives a balance between big bubbles open foam and creamier foam in addition to quick rinse and squeaky after feel.
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition comprising soap and surfactant is preferred owing to its foam quality and foam abundance. Moreover, according to the present invention, the ionic surfactant has been discovered to play a major role on reducing the peak viscosity during processing/industrialization of a conventional pure soap base product. This leads therefore less energy consumption and easier industrialization.

Soap
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises soap obtained from one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of straight or branched saturated C10 – C22 fatty acids, preferably C12 – C18 fatty acids.
According to one embodiment, the soap is water soluble alkali metal soap or organic soap. Metal soap is typically made by neutralization of the fatty acid by alkaline metal neutralizer (like: potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide). Similarly, organic soap is typically made by neutralization of the fatty acid by organic neutralizer (like: thiethanolamine).
Preferably, the neutralization of fatty acid is partial or complete and for example ranges from 70% to 100%, more preferably from 80% to 90%.
According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is selected from Lauric acid, Myristic acid, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid or any mixture thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty acid is a mixture of Lauric acid, Myristic acid, and stearic acid.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% by mass of fatty acids soap relative to the total mass of the composition.

Surfactant
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one amphoteric and/or anionic surfactant.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises only amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants.
According to one embodiment, the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium laureth sulfate, sodium alkyle sulfate, sodium alkyl/cocoyl sarconisate, and any mixture thereof.
According to one embodiment, the amphoteric surfactant is selected from the group consisting of coco-betain, coco-amphoacetate, and any mixture thereof.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is a mixture of coco-betain and sodium cocoamphoacetate.
According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention may further comprise non-ionic surfactants selected from among alkyl/cocoyl poly glucoside, alkyl poly ethoxylate, and any mixture thereof.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises between 1% and 10%, preferably between 1% and 5% by mass of surfactants relative to the total mass of the composition.

Polyol
The composition of the invention comprises at least one polyol.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “polyol” should be understood to mean any water miscible organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
According to an embodiment, the polyol is a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl bearing, on the alkyl chain, at least two –OH functions, in particular at least three –OH functions, and more particularly at least four –OH functions.
More precisely, the polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,3-propanediol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylenes glycol and diethylene glycol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers, e.g. sorbitol, diglycerol, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, dulcitol, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose, sucrose, maltose, saccharose, lactose; and any mixture thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol is sorbitol.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises from 1% to 50%, more preferably from 5% to 30% and more preferably from 10% to 20% by mass of polyol relative to the total mass of the composition.

Filler
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one filler.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises kaolin.
Kaolin is a naturally occurring clay mineral (silicate of aluminium) used in cosmetics for its absorbent properties. Kaolin’s absorbent properties make it a popular ingredient in clay masks for oily skin or in classical cleansers for oil control benefits. It acts as filler material in the cleanser formulation and also contributes to viscosity buildup of the product. Kaolin may be used as filler in compositions of the invention.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 2% to 4% by mass of fillers, for example kaolin, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
Fillers should be understood to mean colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles intended to give body or rigidity to the composition and contributing to increase the viscosity and/or softness of the composition.

Low HLB emulsifier
The composition of the invention comprises at least one low HLB emulsifier.
HLB is typically calcutated with the Griffin's method for non-ionic surfactants:
HLB = 20 * Mhydrophilic / Mtotal
wherein Mhydrophili is the molecular mass of the hydrophilic portion of the molecule, and Mtotal is the molecular mass of the whole molecule.
According to a preferred embodiment, the low HLB emulsifier is Ethylene Glycol Distearate (EGDS).
EGDS is a chemical compound used as an emollient in cosmetics and other consumer products. It is the diester of ethylene and stearic acid and has an HLB value of 1. For example, the Ethylene Glycol Distearate, has a molecular formula C38H74O4 and a molecular mass 594. Ethylene Glycol Distearate has two carbonyl O atoms which are hydrophilic atoms and tend to be soluble in water by virtue of H-bonding. The other two O atoms with a bridged ethylene group are not hydrophilic due to steric interactions of the hydrocarbon chains. Therefore two atoms of O contribute only to the hydrophilic portion of the molecule. The calculation is thus as follows: HLB = 20 * (16*2/594) = 1.08. Therefore the HLB value of Ethylene Glycol Distearate is considered as having a HLB value of 1.
Ethylene Glycol Distearate also produces pearlescent effects in cosmetics, like bath gel and skin cleansers. Besides its role as a pearlising agent, in the current embodiment the most important role if EGDS is as an emulsifier, enhancing the high temperature stability of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of low HLB emulsifier by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises more than or equal to 5% of low HLB emulsifier by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 10%, of low HLB emulsifier by mass relative to the total mass of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises less than 6%, of low HLB emulsifier by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Skin cooling agent
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one skin cooling agent (referred to here as cooling agent).
According to one embodiment, said cooling agent is menthol. Menthol is typically obtained from peppermint oil, from another mint oil or is prepared synthetically.
Mentha arvenis is the primary species of mint used to make natural menthol crystals and natural menthol flakes. When applied topically to the skin, or inhaled, menthol produces a cooling sensation. Menthol does not, in fact lower the temperature of the body or skin. Instead, it produces this skin cooling effect by blocking the calcium current along the nerves responsible for detecting temperature. The message that the individual receives via the nerve endings is that the skin or body is cooling. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises between 0.5% and 1% of by mass skin cooling agents, for example menthol, relative to the total mass of the composition.

Cationic polymer
The composition of the invention comprises at least one cationic polymer.
According to one embodiment, cationic polymers are modified polysaccharides chosen among synthetic cationic polymers, cationic guar gums, cationic cellulose, in particular polyquaternium and any mixture thereof.
Preferably, cationic polymers are selected from the group consisting of polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 53, polyquaternium 39, Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyl trimonium chloride, polyquaternium 67 and any mixture thereof.
Incorporation of cationic polymer has been found to enhance the moist feel after use/ post-drying usage of the composition of the invention.
According to a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer is polyquaternium 7.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises between 0% and 0.25%, more preferably between 0% and 0.05% of cationic polymer by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Additional ingredients
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise additional ingredients, such as for example thickeners, chelating agent, perfume or essential oils, colors or inorganic pigments, antibacterial agent, antioxidant agent or biological extracts.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one thickener.
Thickeners can be added to adjust the viscosity of the product and the flow properties of the final product.
When the composition of the invention comprises a thickener, it is generally present in an amount comprised from 0% to 0.5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.
The thickener is preferably chosen from organic esters such as for example glycerol di-stearate or high molecular mass polymers (typically having a molecular weight higher than 50,000 measured at 2% Water Viscosity (EP Brookfield viscosity), such as for example Benecel K100M from Ashland), for example a cellulose derivative such as for example hydroxyl alkyl cellulose or hydroxyl dialkyl cellulose. More precisely, high molecular mass polymers are selected among hydroxyl propyl methyl cellulose, natural gum, and any mixture thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the thickener is hydroxyl propyl methyl cellulose.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises a chelating agent.
Chelating agents can be added for example, but not limited to, to mask undesired multivalent metal ion contamination from any sources.
The chelating agent is selected from the group consisting of disodium EDTA, tetra-sodium EDTA and any mixture thereof.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more perfumes and/or essential oils.
Perfumes and/or essential oils can be used for example, but not limited to, to provide pleasant odor to the final composition.
According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more colors or inorganic pigments.
Colors or inorganic pigments are used for example, but not limited to, to give more aesthetic appearance to the final product.
The colors or inorganic pigments are for example TiO2, iron oxide, carbon black, etc.
According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises one or more antibacterial agents, antioxidant agents and/or biological extracts.
According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention is an emulsion, typically a direct emulsion.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of at least one polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap obtained from one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of straight or branched saturated C10 – C22 fatty acids, and preferably from fatty acid is selected from Lauric acid, Myristic acid, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid or any mixture thereof,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of coco-betain, sodium cocoamphoacetate or any mixture thereof,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of sorbitol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of at least one polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of Ethylene Glycol Distearate,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of synthetic cationic polymers, cationic guar gums, cationic cellulose, in particular polyquaternium, and any mixture thereof, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of polyol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of menthol,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap obtained from one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of straight or branched saturated C10 – C22 fatty acids, and preferably from fatty acid is selected from Lauric acid, Myristic acid, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid or any mixture thereof,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of sorbitol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

In one embodiment the invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- from 15% to 50%, more preferably from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% of soap obtained from one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of straight or branched saturated C10 – C22 fatty acids, and preferably from fatty acid is selected from Lauric acid, Myristic acid, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid or any mixture thereof,
- from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of coco-betain, sodium cocoamphoacetate or any mixture thereof,
- from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of sorbitol,
- from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin,
- more than 4%, preferentially more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of Ethylene Glycol Distearate,
- from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one polyquaternium, and
- optionally from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent,
wherein percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

Preparation method
The present invention also relates to the preparation method of the composition of the invention, comprising steps
a) mixing and stirring water and at least one polyol,
b) adding one or more fillers and heating until around 80°C,
c) cooling to around 70°C and adding one or more fatty acids, at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2, then adding one or more ionic surfactants,
d) adding at least one soap neutralizer and mixing,
e) cooling to around 50°C and adding at least one cationic polymer,
f) optionally adding other ingredient at around 35°C,
g) cooling to around 25°C while mixing to obtain a homogeneous composition as defined in the invention.

In one embodiment step a) lasts for around 30 minutes.
Additional chelating agent and pigments may be added before the fillers, for example kaolin, in step b) of the preparation method.
The thickener and more precisely hydroxyl propyl methyl cellulose may be added at the end of step b) followed by stirring at 80°C for example for around 30 minutes.
Other additional ingredients such as preservative, extract, antioxidant, fragrance, etc may be added at step f) for example at a temperature around 35°C.

The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment including application of a composition as defined according to the invention on an area of skin, in particular on body and/or face.

According to the present invention, the terms “a”, “an”, “the” mean “one or more” unless expressly specified otherwise.
Examples are given simply as an illustration and in no way limit the scope of the invention. In the Examples, all percentages are given by mass, unless indicated otherwise, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius and is room temperature (about 20 °C) unless indicated otherwise, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure (101325Pa), unless indicated otherwise.
Examples

1. raw materials
Table 1
Chemical Name Purity (%)
Water 100
Sorbitol 70
Disodium EDTA 100
Black2 100
Myristic acid 100
Lauric acid 100
Stearic acid 100
Glycol distearate 100
Cocobetain 30
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate 32
Palmitic Acid 100
Potassium hydroxide (50% aqueous solution) 50
Polyquaternium-7 9.3
Hydroxy Propyl Methy Cellulose 100
Sodium Laureth sulphate 70
Glyceryl stearate SE 100
Phenoxyethanol 100
Menthol 100
Kaolin 100
Silica Silylate 100
Carboxymethyl Cellulose 100
Acrylic Polymer -
Aquakeep – sodium Acrylate crosspolymer-2 89
Behenyl Alcohol 100
Citrus Lemon Extract 100
Fragrance 100

2. Sensory panel test

A sensory test has been done on a 12 women panel to evaluate the sensory properties of soap surfactant mixed base cleanser compositions in comparison with pure soap cleanser composition.

• Protocol and definitions:

Table 2
Attributes Protocol & definitions
Glossy shine This is ability of the product to have glossy appearance.
Ease of spreading The amount of the product being distributing on palm evenly during the first five rubs. Evaluated visually when rubbing 0.5mL of the product along with 1mL of water on palm for 20 circles.
Easy to dissolve The amount of the product being dissolve during the first five rubs. Evaluated visually when rubbing 0.5mL of the product along with 1mL of water on palm for 20 circles.
Speed of foaming This speed of appearing first bubbles during the first five rubs.
Quantity of foam Collect all the foam generated while rubbing in the palm. This is volume of foam obtained.
Size of bubble This size of bubbles which are big or small.
Creaminess of foam This is degree to which the foam is creamy –soft, smooth and dense.
Coverage Place 0.5mL product on palm, add 1mL water & rub 20 circles, then apply foam to face with massage. The degree to which foam get distributes on face which evaluate by looking into mirror.
Cool feel (rinsing face) This is degree of cool feel on face immediately after applying foam on face.
Speed of squeaky clean The time necessary to remove the foam from face and obtain squeaky clean face under running water.
Cool feel (post drying) This is degree of cool feel on face post drying immediately or after 2 minutes on face.
Smoothness Slight movement of the backs of the fingers on the facial area. Leaves the skin smooth. No sensation of rubbing/friction, fingers move on skin easily.

• Conclusions
The conclusions of the sensory test are the following.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleansers compositions have shown better glossy shine (appearance) compared to pure soap based cleanser compositions.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleansers compositions are easier to spread.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleansers compositions are easier to dissolve than pure soap based cleanser compositions.
First bubbles appear quicker with soap-surfactant mixed base cleanser compositions than with pure soap based ones.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleansers generate more foam than pure soap compositions.
Bubbles generated by soap-surfactant mixed based cleanser compositions are bigger than pure soap based cleanser compositions ones.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleanser compositions are more creaminess.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleanser compositions are better distributed on face than pure soap based cleanser compositions.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleanser compositions get rinsed quicker than pure soap based cleanser compositions.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleanser compositions get better cool feel after rinsing, immediately, after drying and even 2 minutes after drying than pure soap based cleanser compositions.
Soap-surfactant mixed based cleanser compositions get the skin smoother than pure soap based cleanser compositions.

3. Product stability study
The accelerated stability study protocol followed is as follows:
Fill up 60 ml glass jars up to 3/4th volume with the given product for which stability study is to be carried out.
Store 1 set of samples at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C & 45°C to be monitored after 1 month and another similar set of samples at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C & 45°C to be monitored after 2 month for Phase stability, viscosity, pH, colour stability, Odour etc.
In this innovation we restrict ourselves mostly to the phase stability/phase separation study discussion.

4. Compositions
Hereafter are described 13 examples for which precise compositions are given in mass percentage relative to the total mass of the composition in Table 3.

Table 3
Role Chemical Name F1 F2 F3 F4 F5 F6 F7 F8 F9 F10 F11 F12 F13
Solvent Water 40.96 39.567 39.777 40.467 40.217 40.917 40.567 40.967 40.937 40.867 40.467 40.215 39.967
Polyol Sorbitol 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7 14.7
Oil Control Filler Kaolin 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3
Chelating Agent Disodium EDTA 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26 0.26
Dye/Pigment Carbon Black 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013 0.013
Polymer/ Foam Thickener Hydroxypropyl Methyl Cellulose 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025
Fatty Compound Ethylene Glycol Distearate 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 4 4 4.5 4.75 5
Thickener/ Emulsifier Behenyl Alcohol 0.5 0.75
Polymer/ Thickener Acrylic Polymer – Carbopol Smart 100 0.4
Polymer/ Thickener Carboxymethyl Cellulose 0.1
Thickener Silica Silylate 0.03
Emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate SE 1
Polymeric Filler Aquakeep 10SH-NFC 0.05
Foaming Agent Myristic Acid 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44 5.44
Foaming Agent Lauric Acid 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10 10
Foaming Agent Stearic Acid 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11 11
Foaming Agent Cocobetaine 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5 1. 5
Foaming Agent Palmitic Acid 1
Foaming Agent Sodium CocoAmphoacetate 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6
Foaming Agent Sodium Laureth Sulphate 1.4
Coolant Menthol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7
Neutralizer Potassium Hydroxide 5.46 5.46 5.65 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46 5.46
Cationic Polymer PQ7 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025 0.025
Preservative Phenoxy ethanol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
Vegetable Extract Citrus Lemon Extract 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01
Fragrance Fragrance oil 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1

It has been observed that prototype F1 has instability towards high temperature storage. To stabilize the given formula without compromising on the sensory, foaming properties and end use benefits of the cleanser formula a sequence of options were explored by addition of surfactants/soaps, emulsifiers, thickeners & polymers those are known to enhance emulsion storage stability at high temperatures. In F2, 1.4 % by mass of SLES (sodium laureth sulfate) was added to improve emulsion stability. In F3, the neutralization of the fatty matters was increased to produce more soap mulecules and leave behind less unneutralised fat to improve emulsification. In F4 & F5, behenyl alcohol (HLB 15.5) commonly known for viscosity build up in soap bases and enhancing soap base storage stability was explored. In F6, a polymeric filler Aquakeep known for its high volume water holding capacity and thereby stabilizing emulsion systems were explored. However, it did not show any water retention capability in presence of the given soap-surfactant system. In F7 an acrylic polymer (carbopol) was used known for its stability enhancing effect, but the end result was not favorable either. In F8, Glyceryl Stearate SE with HLB value 5.8 known for its high emulsifying capability was tried in the prototype but the stability of the product did not get any better. In F9, silica silylate, a known thickener known for its oil holding capacity was explored. In F10 another caroxymethyl cellulose polymer was tried to enhance stability. However, the only positive results on high temperature stability improvement were observed when the percentage mass of Ethylene Glycol Distearate, HLB = 1, was raised. In F11, F12 & F13 the percentages of EGDS used are respectively 4.5 %, 4.75% & 5%. It was only at dosage of 5 % EGDS or more in the given prototype the complete 2 months storage stability was obtained at higher temperatures up to 45 °C. The detailed stability study results are shown in table 4 below for all the formulas from F1 – F13.

5. Phase stability results

Table 4
4°C 25°C 37°C 45°C
F1 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F2 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F3 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F4 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F5 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F6 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F7 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F8 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F9 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F10 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Phase separated in 1 month Phase separated in 1 month
F11 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Stable in 1 month; phase separation in 2 months Stable in 1 month; phase separation in 2 months
F12 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Stable in 1 month; phase separation in 2 months
F13 Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months Stable up to 2 months

These experimentations illustrate that the storage stability at high temperature of the compositions of the invention is obtained.
The tested compositions comprising more than 4% by mass of the low HLB emulsifier are stable after 1 month of storage at 37°C and even at 45°C.
The tested compositions comprising more than 4.5% by mass of the low HLB emulsifier are stable after 2 months of storage at 37°C and after 1 month of storage at 45°C.
The tested compositions comprising at least 5% by mass of the low HLB emulsifier are stable after 1 month and even 2 months of storage at 37°C and even at 45°C.

Claims:1. Composition, especially a cosmetic composition, comprising:
- 15 to 50 % of one or more soap,
- at least one ionic surfactant,
- at least one polyol,
- filler,
- more than 4% of at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2,
- - at least one cationic polymer, and
- optionally a skin cooling agent,
wherein said percentages are given by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein said composition comprises from 15% to 35% and most preferably from 20% to 30% by mass of said soap relative to the total mass of the composition.

3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein said soap is obtained from one or more fatty acids selected from the group consisting of straight or branched saturated C10 – C22 fatty acids, and preferably said fatty acid is selected from Lauric acid, Myristic acid, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid or any mixture thereof.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein said ionic surfactant is an amphoteric, or an anionic surfactant, preferably said composition comprises from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by mass of said amphoteric and/or anionic surfactants relative to the total mass of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein said ionic surfactant is coco-betain, cocoamphoacetate or any mixture thereof.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said polyol is sorbitol.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said composition comprises from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% of at least one polyol by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein said composition comprises from 2% to 4% of fillers, for example kaolin, by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein said low HLB emulsifier is Ethylene Glycol Distearate (EGDS).

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein said composition comprises more than 4.5% and more preferentially more than or equal to 4.75% of low HLB emulsifier by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein said composition comprises from 0.5% to 1% of skin cooling agent by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein said cationic polymer is a polyquaternium.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein said composition comprises from 0% to 0.25%, more preferably from 0% to 0.05% of at least one cationic polymer by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

14. Method of cosmetic treatment including application of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 on an area of skin, in particular on body and/or face.

15. Method for preparing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein said method comprises the following steps:
a) mixing and stirring water and at least one polyol,
b) adding one or more fillers and heating until around 80°C,
c) cooling to around 70°C and adding one or more fatty acids, at least one low HLB emulsifier having HLB lower or equal to 2, then adding one or more ionic surfactants,
d) adding at least one soap neutralizer and mixing,
e) cooling to around 50°C and adding at least one cationic polymer,
f) optionally adding other ingredient at around 35°C,
g) cooling to around 25°C while mixing to obtain a homogeneous composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 13.