Stable cosmetic composition containing a monoglyceride, a tartaric ester of
monoglyceride, and a coated filler
The invention relates to a stable cosmetic composition specially adapted to limit or
5 reduce the brightness or shiny appearance of the skin, especially in tropical climate
conditions.
The shiny appearance that the skin has in conditions of substantial temperature
and relative humidity characteristic of tropica! areas, is related to a flow of sebum and
sweat during the day. This phenomenon of shine of the skin thus affects both populations
10 that are or are not "oily skin". It also results in a sticky and dirty feeling of the skin during
the day which is particularly resented by people living in these areas of the world.
To date, the use of particles of mineral or organic fillers to matt the skin is known to
those skilled in the art. Unfortunately, these particles have the effect of acting on the
sebum but not on sweating. Compositions containing such mineral or organic fillers do not
15 make it possible to sustainably reduce skin shine in extreme conditions (substantial
temperature and relative humidity). The use of aluminum salts to reduce sweating is also
known but for obvious reasons of comfort their use on the face is not possible.
There is therefore a need for cosmetic compositions, preferably comfortable and
moisturizing, that sustainable reduce the brightness of skin in substantial temperature and
20 relative humidity conditions.
The invention has for purpose to provide compositions, in particular cosmetic
compositions, that make it possible to reduce, preferably sustainably, the gloss or shiny
appearance of skin exposed to a tropical climate.
The invention particularly has for purpose to provide an aqueous cosmetic
25 composition that is stable over time to solve the problems mentioned hereinabove.
Moreover, the invention also has for purpose to provide a pleasant cosmetic and/or
comfortable for the user, particularly when being felt for application to the skin.
The invention also has for purpose to provide a composition, in particular a
cosmetic composition, that has moisturizing properties.
30 The invention has for purpose to overcome all these technical problems in an
industrial, reliable, and repeatable manner, and at low cost.
Surprisingly, the inventors discovered that it was possible to achieve the
aforementioned objectives thanks to a composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at
least one monoglyceride and at least one tartaric ester of monoglyceride and at least one
35 coated pigment and/or at least one coated mineral filler.
2
The invention further relates to the use of a combination of at least one
monoglyceride and at least one monoglyceride diacetyl tartaric ester to limit the sheen or
gloss of the skin, especially in a tropical climate.
In terms of the invention, the term "tropical climate" means especially a climate in
5 an area of the globe between the tropics, generally up to about 15° or 20° north and south
latitude. This is a non-arid climate where the monthly average temperature does not fall
below 18° C all throughout the year. Tropical climates have a dry season and a wet
season. In general, tropical climates have an annual rainfall generally between 1 and 2 m.
The invention in particular covers compositions, including cosmetics, adapted to the
10 climate of China, India, Brazil, and countries with equivalent climate conditions.
A tropical climate thus includes substantial temperature and relative humidity likely
: to generate a significant flow of sebum and sweat during the day, even for skins that are
outside of these not particularly oily climates. This phenomenon of gloss or shine of the
skin thus affects both populations that are or are not "oily skin".
15 However the compositions of the invention are not limited to use in a tropical
climate and can be used in any climate, particularly for the purposes of limiting the glossy
or shiny appearance of the skin.
Advantageously, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. A composition
according to the invention may comprise more than 50%, and preferably between 60%
20 and 95%, and more preferably between 65% and 95% by mass of aqueous phase with
respect to the total mass of the composition.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains a lipogel phase.
Aqueous systems based on the combination of monoglyceride and a tartaric ester
of monoglycerides, are commonly known as lipogels and have been used in food for a few
25 years now to make lighter margarines. A lipogel generally comprises a three-dimensional
matrix containing a non-aqueous continuous phase. A lipogel is a complex system that is
generally comprised of percolated fatty body crystals in an aqueous phase. The size of
such crystals is generally a few tens of micrometers. A lipogel is generally formed by
cooling a hot-forming composition (here, a temperature above 55°C) a lamellar phase
30 visible under optical microscope in bkefracting light. Such a three-dimensional
architecture can contain up to 98% of an aqueous phase.
These systems have undergone significant structural studies. Mention may be
made of the following articles, among others.
* Liquid Crystalline Phases in the Structuring of Food Products, 1998,
35 Lebensmittel-Wissenschaft und-technoiogie, 31, 387-396,
3
* Investigation of the Gel to Coagel Phase Transition in Monoglyceride-Water
Systems (Langmuir 1998, 14, 5757-5763)
* Lipid organization and dynamics of the monostearoylglycerol-water system. A 2H
NMR study (Chemistry and Physics of lipids 109 (2001) 15-28)
5 * Rheological Characterization, Crystallization, and Gelation (Behavior of
Monoglyceride Gels (Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 249, (2002) 412-422).
The use of monoglyceride stearate in cosmetics for stabilizing emulsions has long
been known and can be considered to be in the public domain. However, the use of a
tartaric ester of monoglyceride is less common.
10 The compositions according to the invention are preferably in the form of creams,
foams or sticks. It is important to note that the compositions according to the invention, if
they have the appearance of cosmetic creams have, when observed under a microscope,
a structure different from conventional emulsions characterized for example by a regular
carpet of droplets. The compositions according to the invention are characterized in
15 particular by a highly birefringent appearance in polarized light which is typical of their
semi-crystalline nature.
The percentages of the constituents are given in mass relative to the total mass of
the composition, unless mentioned otherwise.
20 Monoglyceride
A monoglyceride, or monoacylglycerol (MAG), is a glyceride forms from a fatty acid
residue combined with a glycerol residue by an ester bond. They can be classified into
two groups, 1-monoacyglycerols and 2-monoacylglycerols according to whether the acyl
group is in position 1 or 2 of the glycerol residue.
25 According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises as a
monoglyceride one or more monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or
unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
Preferably the monoglyceride comprises an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated,
comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.
30 In this case, interested is particularly given to 1-monoacylglycerois, such as those
of the following formula (e.g. C18):
CH2OCO(CH2)16CH3
CHOH
CH2OH
4
The length of the fatty acid chain can range from C12 to C22, preferably esters of
C16 or C18 monoglycerides are chosen.
The raw material used is important in that the monoglycerides used allow a lipogel
phase to be formed. Monoglycerides containing less than 10% residual diglycerides are in
5 particular used. Monoglycende stearates are preferably used, for example marketed
under the name HP DIMODAN by DANISCO company or those sold under the name
TEGIN 90 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.
The monogiyceride content of the formulations according to the invention is from
1% to 20%, preferably from 2 to 10% and very preferably from 3 to 8% by mass based on
10 the total mass of said composition.
Tartaric ester of monoglycerides of fatty acids
Tartaric esters of monoglycerides of fatty acids are usually obtained by grafting a
tartaric residue at position 3 of the glycerol residue of a 1 -monoacylglycerol. The length of
15 the fatty acid chain can range from C12 to C22, preferably esters of C16 or C18
monoglycerides will be chosen.
The tartaric ester of monogiyceride is preferably a diacetyl tartaric ester of
monogiyceride comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to
22 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.
20 In this case, particular interest is given to diacety! tartaric acid esters of C18
monoglycerides, such as those of the following formula:
5
CH2OCO(CH2)16CH3
CHOH
CH20—CO
OCOCH3
OCOCH3
COOH
The invention covers the various isomers of tartaric acid and mixtures thereof,
including racemic mixtures.
These ingredients and their uses are described on pages 88-95 of the Functional
5 Ingredients for Food brochure published by DANISCO and available on the
http://www.danisco.com/ site.
These esters can be chosen among tartaric ester of mono- and diglycerides of
fatty acids (E472d additive), and a monoacetyltartric ester of mono- and diglycerides of
fatty acids (E472e additive). Monoglycerides and diglycerides esters with a purity of about
10 80% or more are mainly sought.
The tartaric ester of monoglycerides content of the formulations according to the
invention is from 0.05% to 5%, preferably from 0.1 to 2% and very preferably from 0.1 to
1% by mass based on the total mass of said composition. Typically a tartaric ester
monoglyceride is used with a content of 0.2-0.5% by mass based on the total mass of said
15 composition.
Mineral fillers and coated pigments
Pigments and/or mineral fillers used in the invention are surface treated, entirely or
partially, by at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.
20 The surface treatment of a pigment and/or mineral filler according to the invention
generally denotes the full or partial surface treatment of the pigment by a surface agent,
absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment and/or mineral filler. The surface-treated
pigments and/or mineral filler may be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical
or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the
25 art. Commercial products may also be used. The surface agent may be absorbed,
adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments and/or mineral filler by means of solvent
evaporation, chemical reaction and/or creation of a covalent bond.
6
"Pigment" denotes a solid particle, white or colored, naturally insoluble in the liquid
hydrophilic and lipophilic phases usually used in cosmetics or insolubilized by formulation
in the form of lacquer, where applicable. As pigments, mention can be made of organic
and inorganic pigments such as those defined and described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of
5 Industrial Chemistry " Pigment organics ", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA,
Weinheim, et "Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General" 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co.
KGaA, Weinheiml.
The mineral fillers according to the invention are inorganic pigments.
Examples include azoic pigments that contain one or more azoic groups A-N = N-B
10 with A representing a (hetero)aryl optionally substituted, B representing (hetero)aryl
optionally substituted or -CH[C(0)-R]-C(0)-XrA\ A' representing a (hetero)aryl, optionally
substituted, and R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C,-C6)alkyl, with the groups A, A
and B (hetero)aryl which contain no solubilizing groups such as -S03H, -COOH. They can
be especially monoazoic for which the 3-Naphthols, monoazopyrroione pigments,
15 Benzimidazolone pigments; diazoic pigments such as diazodiarylide pigments and Bis (Nacetoacetarylide),
the trisazoic or tetraazoic pigments. Mention can also be made of Azoic
Pigments with Metal Complexes or "azo metal complex pigment."
Other pigments are also of interest, these are isoindolinone and isoindoline
pigments, Phthalocyanine pigments; Quinacridone pigments; the Perinone pigments;
20 Perylene pigments; Anthraquinone pigments such as Hydroxyanthraquinone Pigments;
Aminoanthraquinone the pigments including Acylaminoanthraquinones and
Anthraquinone Azoic pigments; Heterocyclic Anthraquinones; Anthraquinone
polycarbocyclic pigments; Pyranthrone pigments; Anthanthrone pigments;
Diketopyrrolopyrrole pigments (DPP); Thioindigo pigments; Dioxazines pigments;
25 Triphenylmethane pigments; Quinophthalone pigments; and Fluorescent pigments.
In the context of this invention, the pigment may be at least partially organic.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the pigment is an organic pigment.
According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigment is an mineral pigment.
As illustrations of pigments that can be used in this invention, mention can be
30 made of carbon black, titanium oxide, chromium oxide, pigments of the type D&C, FD&C
and lacquers thereof, and in particular those under the names D&C Blue no. 4, D&C
Brown no. 1, FD&C Green no. 3, D&C Green no. 5, D&C Green no. 6, FD&C Green no. 8,
20 D&C Orange no. 4, D&C Orange no. 5, D&C Orange no. 10, D&C Orange no. 11,
FD&C Red no. 4, D&C Red no. 6, D&C Red no. 7, D&C Red no. 17, D&C Red no. 21,
35 D&C Red no. 22, D&C Red no. 27, D&C Red no. 28, D&C Red no. 30, D&C Red no. 31,
D&C Red no. 33, D&C Red no. 34, D&C Red no. 36, FD&C Red no. 40, FD&C Red 40
7
lake-D&C Violet no. 2, Ext. D&C Violet no. 2, FD & C Blue no. 1, D&C Yellow no. 6,
FD&C Yellow no. 6, D&C Yellow no. 7, 25 Ext. D&C Yellow no. 7, D&C Yellow no. 8, D&C
Yellow no. 10 or D&C Yellow no. 11, with the understanding that when said pigment is not
naturally insoluble in the hydrophilic and lipophilic phases usually used in cosmetics, it is
5 used in the form of a corresponding lacquer. As examples of lacquers, mention may be
made lacquers based on barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, or diketo pyrrolopyrroles.
Other examples of pigments that can be used in this invention, mention can be made in
particular of surface treated and/or coated mineral pigments, and in particular titanium
dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or
10 red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric
blue, or metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder, gold powder and silver
powder. Mention may also be made of optical effect pigments such as particles
comprising a natural or synthetic organic or inorganic substrate, for example glass, acrylic
resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said
15 substrate and being coated or not with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver,
platinum, copper, bronze, or with metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide,
chromium oxide. This can also be nacres. The term "nacres" should be understood to
denote iridescent pigments, in particular produced by some mollusks in their shell or by
synthetic means. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from mica coated with
20 titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica
coated with iron blue and chromium oxide in particular, titanium mica coated with an
organic pigments of the aforementioned type and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth
oxychloride. Interference pigments may also be used, in particular liquid crystal or
multilayer pigments. The pigments may also be pigments having a structure that may be,
25 for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. These can also be
pigments having a structure that may, for example, be of the type of silica microspheres
containing iron oxide.
Examples of pigments particularly suitable for the implementation of this invention,
mention may be made of D&C Red no. 7, titanium oxide, chromium oxide, lacquer-type
30 pigments of D&C and FD&C cited above, and in particular D&C Red No. 22 Lake, Yellow
no. 6 lake, FD&C Blue no. 1 lake. The pigments in accordance with the invention can
have the form of powder or pigment paste. The pigments in accordance with the invention
can for example be chosen from white or colored pigments, lakes, pigments with special
effects such as nacres or flakes, and mixtures thereof. Examples of white or colored
35 inorganic pigments include oxides of zirconium or of cerium, chromium oxides,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Examples of white
8
•-- or colored organic pigments include the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene,
quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline,
quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine,
triphenylmethane quinophthalone.
5 In particular, white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine,
carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red,
the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800,
69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the
references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 the
10 green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260,
the orange pigments codified the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510,
45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under CI 12085 references,
12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865,
15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments
15 obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in
patent FR 2 679 771.
Pigment pastes of organic pigment can be used such as products sold by the
company HOECHST under the name: - JAUNE COSMENYL 10G: Pigment YELLOW 3
(CI 11710); - JAUNE COSMENYL G: Pigment YELLOW 1 (CI 11680); - ORANGE
20 COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (CI 71105); - ROUGE COSMENYL R: Pigment
RED 4 (CI 12085); - CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (CI 12490); - ViOLET
COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (CI 51319); - BLEU COSMENYL A2R: Pigment
BLUE 15.1 (CI 74160); - VERT COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (CI 74260); - NOIR
COSMENYL R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Ci 77266). The pigments in accordance with the
25 invention can also be in the form of composite pigments such as described in patent EP 1
184 426. These composite pigments may be composed of particles comprising: - a
mineral core, - at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core, and - at least
one organic pigment at least partially covering the core. The term lacquer means dyes
adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during
30 use. The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina,
silica, borosilicate, calcium and sodium or calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
Among the organic dyes, mention can be made of cochineal carmine. Examples lacquers
include products known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C
Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C
35 Red 3 (C! 45 430), D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (Ci
17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61
9
570), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
The term special effect pigments means pigments that generally create a colored
appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity and a certain lightness)
non-uniform and changeable according to the viewing conditions (light, temperature ,
5 viewing angles, etc.). They are opposed by the same token with white or colored
pigments, which provide a conventional uniform opaque, semitransparent or transparent.
Examples of special effect pigments include white pearlescent pigments such as
mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such
as mica coated with titanium and iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and especially
10 ferric or blue and chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment
as defined above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Also, exemplary
pigments loose interference effect on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC
from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from
Spectratek). Pigments with special effects also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether
15 substances which are fluorescent in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence,
phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and
quantum dots, for example sold by Quantum Dots Corporation. Quantum dots are light
conductive semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation,
radiation having a wavelength between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles are
20 known from literature. In particular, they can be manufactured by the methods described
for example in US 6 225 198 and US 5 990 479, in the publications cited therein, and in
the following publications as well: Dabboussi B.O. et a! "(Cd.Se)ZnS core-shell quantum
dots: synthesis and characterisation of a size series of highly luminescent nanocristallites"
Journal of physical chemistry B, vol 101, 1997, pp 9463-9475. et Peng, Xiaogang et al,
25 "Epitaxial Growth of highly Luminescent CdSe/CdS core/shell nanocrystals with
photostability and electronic accessibility" Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol
119, no. 30, pp 7019-7029.
The pigments according to the invention are preferably colored pigments.
The variety of pigments involved provides a rich palette of colors as well as
30 specific optical effects, such as metallic effects, interference. The size of a pigment other
than the nacres in solution is generally between 10 nm and 10 pm, preferably between 50
nm and 5 pm, and even more preferably between 100 nm and 3 pm. The size of a nacre
in solution is generally between 1 and 200 pm, preferably between 1 nm and 80 pm, and
even more preferably between 1 and 50 pm. Among the inorganic pigments, mention can
35 be made for example of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase) optionally surface treated and
codified in the Color Index under the reference C177891; black iron oxides, red and yellow
10
brown, codified under references C177499, 77492, 77491; manganese violet (C177742);
ultramarine blue (C177007); hydrated chromium oxide (C177289); ferric blue (C177510).
Among the organic pigments that may be mentioned, for example, the particular
pigment YELLOW 3 sold under the trade name "JAUNE COVANOR W 1603 by
5 WACKHERR (CI 17710), "D & C RED no. 19" (Ci 45170), D & C RED no. 9 (CI 15585), D
& C RED no. 21 (CI 45380), D & C ORANGE no. 4 (CI 15510), D & C ORANGE no. 5 (CI
45370), D & C RED no. 27 (C145410), D & C RED no. 13 (CI 15630), D & C RED no. 7
(CI 15850-1), D & C RED no. 6 (CI 15850-2), D & C YELLOW no. 5 (Ci 19140), D & C
RED no. 36 (CI 12085), D & C ORANGE no. 10 (CI 45425), D & C YELLOW no. 6 (CI
10 15985), D. & C RED no. 30 (CI 73360), D & C RED no. 3 (Ci 45430), carbon black (CI
77266), and lakes based on cochineal carmine (CI 75470).
Pearlescent pigments can also be used, and in particular chosen from white
pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxide; colored
pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue
15 or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of precipitated type, as well as
those based oxychioride bismuth.
The content of pigments and/or coated mineral fillers may advantageously range
from 0.1% to 4% by mass, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by mass based on the total mass
of said composition.
20 Hydrophobic treatment agent for lipophilic)
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments and/or mineral
fillers may be surface treated or coated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic-treating
agent selected from silicone surfactants; fiuorinated surfactants; surfactants fluorosilicone;
metal soaps, amino N-acyiamino acids or salts thereof such as disodium stearoyl
25 glutamate; lecithin and its derivatives; triisostearyl isopropyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate;
plant or animal natural waxes, synthetic waxes polar; fatty esters; fatty alcohols;
phospholipids, and mixtures thereof. As surfactants, mention may be made of silicone
polydimethylsiloxanes.
The treatment agent may represent from 0.1 50% by mass, and particularly from
30 0.5 to 5 mass %, of the total mass of the coated pigment and the coated mineral filler.
Sequestrant
In an alternative embodiment of the invention, formulas can furthermore contain
one or more sequestering agents.
35 Sequestering agents are molecules which form chemical complexes with metallic
ions such as copper, iron and nickel.
11
Generally, sequestering- agents or chelating agents are described in KIRKOTHIvlER
Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology Encyclopedia John Wiley and Sons Vol
5 pages 708-739.
Among the sequestering agents that can be used in the composition of the
5 invention, mention can be made of for example ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA)
and its salts such as disodium salt of ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (disodium EDTA);
the phosphonic derivatives such as hexamethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonic
acid), ethylenediamine acid tetra (rnethylenephosphonic) acid, 1 -hydroxyethylidene 1 , 1 -
diphosphonic acid, amino tri (methylene phosphonic acid), the acid diethyiene triamine
10 penta (methylene phosphonic acid), and salts and especially sodium salts thereof such as
the pentasodium salt of ethylenediamine tetra (methylene phosphonic acid); the particular
polyamine polymers such as polyalkylene polyamines and derivatives thereof, and in
particular potyethyleneimine, and dendrimers containing chelating activity; proteins, such
as spermine, spermidine, transferrin, ferritin; carboxylic acids such as phytic acid, citric
15 acid, malic acid, nitriio acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, succinic acid, oxalic acid,
mucic acid; methylglycine diacetic acid, N-lauroyl-N, N ', N'-tri-acetic ethylenediamine,
iminodisuccinic acid, acid N, N-dicarboxymethyl L-glutamic ethylenediamine-N, N '-
dissucinique, desferrioxamine mesylate; glucono delta-lactone, sodium gluconate,
potassium and/or calcium; phosphoric acid, potassium bitartrate, sodium acetate, sorbitol
20 and mixtures of these sequestering agents.
The preferred sequestering agents are ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA),
glucono delta-lactone, sodium gluconate, potassium and/or calcium; citric acid,
phosphoric acid, tartaric acid, potassium bitartrate, sodium acetate, sorbitol.
Preferably, EDTA is used.
25 Preferably, the sequestrant content levels are from 0.01% to 1%, and preferably
from 0.05 to 0.5%, by mass based on the total mass of said composition.
The invention particularly relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic
composition, comprising as an ingredient of the composition (i) at least one or more
30 monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12
to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms, (ii) at least one of
monoglyceride diacetyl tartaric ester comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated,
comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms
(iii) at least one pigment and/or coated mineral filler, and (iv) optionally at least one
35 sequestering agent.
12
Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition, especially a
cosmetic composition, comprising as an ingredient of the composition (i) at least one or
more monoglycerides comprising an alky! chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising
from 12 to 22 carbon atoms (ii) at least a diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglyceride
5 comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and preferably comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms, (iii) at least one pigment and/or
coated mineral filler, and (iv) optionally at least one of the sequestering agents or any
combinations thereof: ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), glucono delta-lactone,
sodium gluconate, potassium and/or calcium; citric acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid,
10 potassium bitartrate, sodium acetate, sorbitol, and preferably EDTA.
Advantageously, the composition of the invention is a composition, especially a
cosmetic composition, comprising among the composition ingredients (i) at least one or
more monoglycerides comprising an alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 16
or 18 C atoms, (ii) at least one of monoglyceride diacetyl tartaric ester comprising an alkyl
15 chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms, (iii) at least one
pigment and/or coated mineral filler, and (iv) optionally at least one sequestering agent at
least one sequestering agent, preferably selected from the following agents or any
combination thereof: ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), glucono delta-lactone,
sodium gluconate, potassium and/or calcium; citric acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid,
20 potassium bitartrate, sodium acetate, sorbitol, and preferably EDTA.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a monoglyceride
content of 1 to 20%, a content of tartaric ester of monoglyceride 0.05%) to 2%, from 0.1%
to 4% of pigments and/or mineral fillers coated, and optionaily from 0.01% to 1% of
sequestering agent, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the
25 total composition.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a monoglyceride
content of 2 to 10%, a monoglyceride tartaric ester content of 0.1 to 1%, %, preferably
from 0.1% to 3% of pigments and/or coated mineral fillers, and optionally from 0.01% to
1% of sequestering agent, the percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass
30 of the total composition.
According to one embodiment, the composition comprises a monoglyceride
content of from 3 to 8%, a tartaric ester of monoglyceride content, 0.1 to 0.5% of pigments
and/or mineral fillers coated, and optionally of 0, 05 to 0.5% sequestering agent, the
percentages being expressed by mass relative to the mass of the total composition.
35 The invention specifically covers a composition comprising as ingredients:
MONOGLYCERIDE; ESTERS OF TARTARIC MONOGLYCERIDES; OXIDE COATED
13
TITANIUM POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE; and possibly: ACID ETHYLENE DIAMINE
TETRACETIC, DISODIUM SALT; associated for example with: PHENOXYETHANOL;
XANTHAN; 2-ACRYLOYLAMINO-2-METHYLPROPANE-1-SULFONIC ACID (AMPS);
POLYDIMETHYLSILOXANE (PDMS); WATER; GLYCERINE; PROPYLENE GLYCOL.
14
Other ingredients
A certain amount of oil can be introduced into the compositions according to the
invention.
One can use one or more oils commonly used in cosmetics, chosen in particular
5 from a mineral, vegetable, silicone oil.
Preferably the oil or oils are present in a total amount ranging from 0.5 to 35% by
mass based on the mass of the total composition.
The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may contain the usual
ingredients or additives in cosmetics: pigments, dyes, biological assets (anti-aging agents,
10 anti-oily skin, skin whitening, anti-perspirant, anti-oxidants, etc.) sunscreens, film-forming
polymers, scattering fillers, oils and fats, moisturizers, emollients, and any combination
v thereof.
The invention also relates to the use of at least one coated pigment and/or at least
15 one coated mineral filler, optionally in combination with at least one sequestering agent,
for improving the stability of a composition, especially a cosmetic composition comprising
at least one monoglyceride and at least one diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglyceride.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising applying a
composition as defined according to the invention on an area of skin, in particular to iimit
20 the gloss or shiny appearance of the skin at the area application, especially in a tropical
climate.
This invention will now be described more specifically through examples that are in
no way limitative of the scope of the invention. However, the examples provide information
25 about specific characteristics, variants and preferred embodiments of the invention.
in the examples, the temperature is given in degrees Celsius and is the ambient
temperature (20-25°C), unless mentioned otherwise, and the pressure is the atmospheric
pressure at sea level unless mentioned otherwise. Furthermore, percentages are given in
mass relative to the total mass, unless mentioned otherwise.
30
1/ Fill the m'txture of phase A in a melter, keep the temperature at 65°C for 45
minutes with stirring at 250 rpm until a homogeneous and opalescent phase.
2/ Add phase B, stopping the flow of heat and cool with vigorous stirring between
10 400 and 600 rpm
3/ In the end, add phase C comprising the polymer and the charge stirred at room
temperature.
Example 3: Stability of compositions according to the invention
"Cool type" means the formulation of the example under consideration after
preparation of the formulation but before implementation of the accelerated aging test.
5 The compositions of the invention are stable in a satisfactory manner, and are
therefore compliant with the objective sought.
Perceived performance
A formula of the invention has been tested by women with oily skin in India, China
10 and Brazil (self-application on 14 women for 7 days). At the end of the trial period, the
women are satisfied with the performance and cosmetic decomposition properties of the
invention. The effectiveness of the compositions of the invention in the fight against sheen
or gloss of the skin during the day is perceived in the three countries. The product meets
the expectations of individuals with oily skin, in particular in a tropical climate.
15
Women who applied on their skin the compositions of the present invention
consider that they are comfortable, that is to say, the application does not present any
particular discomfort but instead provides a feeling of comfort and effect of skin hydration.
The compositions of the invention therefore meet the challenges set out initially.
20 A non-compliant form of the invention has been tested and does not achieve a
satisfactory result in terms of matteness.

CLAIMS
1- Composition, especially a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it
comprises an aqueous phase and at least one monoglyceride and at least one tartaric
5 ester of monoglyceride, and at least one coated pigment and/or at least one coated
mineral filler.
2.- Composition, according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises more than
50% in mass relative to thetotal mass of the composition.
3.- Composition, according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises as a
10 monoglyceride one or more monoglycerides comprising an alkyi chain, saturated or
unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
4.- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the
monoglyceride comprises an alkyi chain, saturated or unsaturated, compnsing 16 or 18
carbon atoms.
15 5.- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the
composition comprises monoglyceride content from 1% to 20%, preferably from 2 to 10%
and very preferably from 3 to 8% by mass based on the total mass of said composition.
6.- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the
tartaric ester of monoglyceride is a diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglyceride comprising an
20 alkyi chain, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and
preferably comprising 16 or 18 carbon atoms.
7.- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the
tartaric ester of monoglyceride content ranges from 0.05% to 5 %, preferably from 0.1 to 2
% and very preferably from 0.1 to 1% by mass based on the total mass of said
25 composition.
8..- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it
comprises a filler and/or pigment that is surface treated or coated with at least one
hydrophobic or lipophilic-treating agent selected from silicone surfactants; fluorinated
surfactants; surfactants fluorosilicone; metal soaps, amino N-acyiamino acids or salts
30 thereof such as disodium stearoy! glutamate; lecithin and its derivatives; triisostearyl
isopropyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; plant or animal natural waxes, synthetic waxes
polar; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
9.- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the
composition comprises a pigment and/or mineral filler content coated from 0.1% to 4%
35 and preferably from 0.2 to 3% by mass based on the total mass of said composition.
19
10.- Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the
treatment agent may represent from 0.1 to 50% by mass, and particularly from 0.5 to 5
mass %, of the tota! mass of the coated pigment and the coated mineral filler.
11. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it
5 comprises a least one sequestering agent.
12. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it
comprises a least one sequestering agent from among the following or any combination
thereof: ethylene diamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA), glucono deita-iacione, sodium
gluconate, potassium and/or calcium; citric acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid, potassium
10 bitartrate, sodium acetate, sorbitol, and preferably EDTA.
13.- Composition, according to any one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the
composition comprises a sequestering agent from 0.01% to 1% and preferably from 0.05
to 0.5% by mass based on the total mass of said composition.
14. Composition, according to any of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it
15 comprises a lipogel phase.
15.- Use of at least one coated pigment and/or at least one coated mineral filler,
optionally in combination with at least one sequestering agent, for improving the stability
of a composition, especially a cosmetic composition comprising at least one
monoglyceride and at least one diacetyl tartaric ester of monoglyceride.
20 16.- Cosmetic treatment method, characterized in that it comprises applying of a
composition such as defined according to any of claims 1 to 13 on an area of skin, in
particular to limit the gloss or shiny appearance of the skin at the area of application,
especially in a tropical climate.