COSMETIC PRODUCT
The present invention relates to a cosmetic product, in particular a care,
hygiene and/or makeup product for a keratin material, comprising at least two
compositions, one comprising at least one aqueous phase, and the other being anhydrous
and being able to be combined with the composition comprising at least one aqueous
phase, directly by the user, for the purpose of giving it a colour personalized to the user's
taste.
A product according to the invention is especially a product that is intended to
be applied to a keratin material, in particular the skin.
In particular, a product according to the invention may be any type of cosmetic
product such as a foundation, a face powder, an eye shadow, a concealer product, a
blusher, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil, an eye pencil, an eyeliner, a
mascara, a body makeup product, a skin colouring product, a care product such as a care
cream, a tinted cream or an antisun product.
The aspect of cosmetic products, most particularly their colour, is a
determining factor for ensuring their appeal. In certain cases, and in particular in care
products, in tinted creams and, generally, in all makeup products, the colour is an essential
characteristic attribute sought by the consumer.
What is more, users are increasingly in search of quite specific shades that are
in particular personalized to their own complexion. However, in general, conventional
makeup compositions are incompatible with a personalized colour adjustment, that can be
made directly a user.
The reason for this is that in order to obtain good colour properties, both as
regards the visual aspect of the product itself and as regards the result after using the said
product, it is necessary to ensure perfect dispersion or dissolution of the colouring starting
materials. Furthermore, for certain colouring starting materials, and in particular for
certain colorants that are difficult to dissolve or certain insoluble pigments, it is necessary
to incorporate the constituents in their favoured phase, very often with vigorous
mechanical stirring to force their wetting and/or dissolution, which moreover proves to be
very costly in terms of energy and industrial machinery. In certain types of formulation,
the colouring starting materials must even be prewetted or predissolved before being

incorporated into the final preparation, which necessitates intermediate preparations and
consequently makes shade corrections at the end of formulation difficult.
For all of the abovementioned reasons, the coloration of cosmetic products is
thus usually obtained, at the industrial phase, by introducing colouring starting materials
into the continuous phase of the said cosmetic products.
Consequently, the cosmetic products provided to users are usually already
tinted and unsuitable for shade modification by the said users.
As a result, there is at the present time no simple and easy means for
modifying the shade of a cosmetic product by a user.
There is thus still a need for cosmetic compositions that allow the shades of
the said cosmetic products to be easily modified.
Contrary to all expectation, the inventors have discovered a means for giving
conventional colouring starting materials an ability to be mixed with low mechanical
stirring, and in particular manually, with cosmetic makeup and/or care products
comprising at least one aqueous phase.
Advantageously, the colouring starting materials under consideration
according to the invention prove to be capable of giving satisfactory colour properties
while at the same time having significantly improved wetting and/or dissolution
properties, in any type of aqueous phase.
Thus, according to one of its first aspects, a subject of the invention is a
cosmetic product comprising at least:
- a first anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least colouring
particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the said particles
being formed from:
- at least one hydrophilic dyestuff in a content of greater than or equal
to 60% by weight relative to their total weight,
- at least one effervescent system in a content of less than or equal to
20% by weight relative to their total weight,
- at least one hydrophilic binder, and
- at least one dispersant that is different from the said hydrophilic
binder; and
- a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase.

The inventors have thus observed, unexpectedly, that colouring particles as
defined above are capable of dispersing spontaneously on contact with an aqueous phase,
even with low mechanical stirring.
The colouring particles may especially be in the form of solid granules or
grains that are individualized at room temperature, i.e. which are in divided form. Thus,
the hydrophilic dyestuff(s) may be coated and/or bound using at least the effervescent
system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the dispersant(s).
The hydrophilic dyestuff and the effervescent system, when they come into
contact with an aqueous medium, bring about the immediate dispersion or dissolution in
the said medium of the said associated hydrophilic dyestuff.
The amount of hydrophilic binder in the said particles is advantageously
adjusted so as to obtain high colouring power and to avoid disrupting the sensory quality
of the cosmetic products containing these particles by making them adhere to the skin and
by avoiding any aggregation phenomena.
In general, this amount is small, i.e. less than or equal to 20% by weight and
preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the said particles.
The proportion of effervescent system is, for its part, optimal so as to avoid
giving the final product an excessively acidic nature with regard to cosmetic applications.
As regards the dispersant, its presence makes it possible to reinforce the
dispersibility afforded mainly by the effervescent system, of the colouring particles in the
aqueous medium.
As emerges from the foregoing, a product in accordance with the present
invention has the advantage of offering its user, by providing him with a first composition
according to the invention, the possibility of modifying at will and without difficulty the
colour in the second associated composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, for
instance a care, hygiene and/or makeup composition for a keratin material. Another
advantage of the product according to the invention lies in the fact that the aqueous phase
of the second composition is not necessarily its continuous phase. In other words, when
this second composition is in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, spontaneous
dispersion of the dyestuff may also be observed.

As emerges from the foregoing, the first composition may either be formed
solely by the said colouring particles in accordance with the invention, or comprise
colouring particles in combination with other ingredients especially as defined below.
With regard to these two alternatives, it should be noted, for the purposes of
the present invention, that, firstly, a first anhydrous composition comprising a total content
of greater than or equal to 98% by weight of solid colouring particles according to the
invention relative to its total weight has a content of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight
of water relative to its total weight, and, secondly, a first anhydrous composition
comprising a total content of less than or equal to 98% by weight of solid colouring
particles relative to its total weight has a content of less than or equal to 2% by weight or
even less than or equal to 1% by weight of water relative to its total weight.
Preferably, an anhydrous composition according to the invention is totally free
of water.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin material" is
intended to cover the skin, mucous membranes such as the lips, the nails and keratin
fibres, such as the eyelashes and the hair. According to one particular mode, the keratin
material is the skin. According to another particular mode, the keratin material is the lips.
In the context of the present invention, the terms "anhydrous composition" and
"first composition" are used without preference.
A cosmetic product according to the present invention may be in two main
embodiments.
Thus, according to a first embodiment, the first composition is formed solely
from colouring particles according to the invention and the second composition comprises
at least one aqueous phase and is in the form of a cosmetic composition, especially for
making up and/or caring for a keratin material.
According to a second embodiment, the first composition comprises colouring
particles according to the invention in a total content of greater than or equal to 85% by
weight relative to the total weight of the said composition and at least one non-aqueous
binder, in particular in a content of less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total
weight of the said composition. A first composition of this type is then, for the purposes of
the invention, said to be formed "essentially" of colouring particles.

Irrespective of the embodiment described above, a first composition formed
solely or essentially of colouring particles in accordance with the invention may be in the
form of a "loose" or "compact" powder.
This aspect is especially appreciated with regard to the content in the said first
composition of non-aqueous binder(s) defined below. The presence of such a non-aqueous
binder is especially advantageous in that it allows the said first composition to be in the
form of a compacted powder that is suited to certain embodiments of the present
invention, as described below.
A first composition according to the invention, especially as defined according
to the first and second embodiments described above, is intended to be mixed with the
second composition combined in a product according to the invention, so as either to give
this composition colouring properties in accordance with the user's desires, when the said
second composition is free of dyestuff, or to modify the colour properties of this
composition and in particular to alter its shade, when the said second composition is
preco loured.
The user can thus personalize the final colour of the product obtained after
mixing together the two compositions.
In the case of a product according to the invention, the second composition
may then be in the form of a cosmetic composition, especially for caring for and/or
making up a keratin material.
In the two embodiments of the first composition described above, namely a
first composition formed solely or essentially from colouring particles, the first
composition and the second composition are advantageously mixed together in a weight
ratio ranging from 0.5/99.5 to 50/50 and preferably 1/99 to 20/80.
The cosmetic product according to the invention may, however, also be in
another "additional" embodiment.
More specifically, this other embodiment of the invention combines a first
anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising (i) colouring particles formed from at least
the hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the
dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total

weight of the said composition and (ii) at least coloured and/or uncoloured pulverant
materials, optionally a non-aqueous binder, optionally also an additional ingredient chosen
from surfactants, gelling agents, optionally polymers, fibres, chelating agents, active
agents and fragrances, and mixtures thereof, and a second composition comprising at least
one aqueous phase that is in the form of a cosmetic composition, especially for caring for
and/or making up a keratin material.
According to this other embodiment of the invention, the first composition is
said to be formed "partly" of colouring particles formed from at least one (or more)
hydrophilic dyestuff(s), one (or more) effervescent system(s), one (or more) hydrophilic
binders) and one (or more) dispersant(s).
As emerges from the foregoing, a first composition of this type may be in
different variants.
According to a first variant, a first composition comprises colouring particles
formed from at least the hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the
hydrophilic binders) and the dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to
20% by weight relative to its total weight, at least one coloured and/or uncoloured
pulverant material and optionally at least one non-aqueous binder.
A variant of the first composition of this type is said to be "simplex".
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "coloured and/or
uncoloured pulverant material" is intended to denote pigments, nacres and fillers, and
mixtures thereof, in a loose form, unlike the hydrophilic dyestuff(s) that form an integral
part of a mixture between the said hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the
hydrophilic binders) and the dispersant(s) that constitute the colouring particles in
accordance with the invention.
Advantageously, a first "simplex" composition may comprise from 30% to
90% by weight and especially from 40% to 60% by weight of colouring particles in
accordance with the invention, relative to its total weight.
The weight ratio of colouring particles in accordance with the
invention/associated coloured and/or uncoloured pulverant material(s) generally ranges
from 1/2 to 2/1 in a first simplex composition.

According to a second variant, a first "partly formed" composition comprises
colouring particles formed from at least the hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent
system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than
or equal to 4% by weight relative to its total weight, at least one non-aqueous binder, at
least one coloured and/or uncoloured pulverant material, and at least one additional
ingredient chosen from surfactants, gelling agents, and optionally polymers, fibres,
chelating agents, active agents and fragrances, and mixtures thereof.
A variant of the first composition of this type is said to be "complex".
In a first "complex" composition, the colouring particles may advantageously
represent from 4% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% to 70% by weight and better
still from 10% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
A first "complex" composition may especially be in the form of a solid
anhydrous makeup composition per se, and more particularly in the form of a foundation,
a face powder, an eye shadow, a blusher or a mascara, and more particularly a foundation,
and the second composition may then comprise water in a content of greater than 80% by
weight relative to the total weight of the said second composition.
According to this additional embodiment, a first "simplex" composition and a
second composition forming a product according to the invention are advantageously
mixed together in a weight ratio ranging from 3/97 to 50/50.
According to this additional embodiment, a first "complex" composition and a
second composition forming a product according to the invention are advantageously
mixed together in a weight ratio ranging from 90/10 to 10/90.
Thus, according to another of its aspects, the present invention also relates to a
cosmetic product comprising at least:
- (i) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the
hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binder(s) and the
dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to 98% by weight relative to the
total weight of the said first composition, and
- a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase in the form of a
cosmetic composition, especially for caring for and/or making up a keratin material.

According to another of its aspects, the invention is also directed towards a
cosmetic product comprising at least:
- (ii) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the
hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the
dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to 85% by weight relative to the
total weight of the said first composition and at least one non-aqueous binder, in particular
in a content of less than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the said
first composition, and
- a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase in the form of a
cosmetic composition, especially for caring for and/or making up a keratin material.
According to yet another of its aspects, the invention is also directed towards a
cosmetic product comprising at least:
- (hi) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the
hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binder(s) and the
dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to its
total weight, at least one coloured and/or uncoloured pulverant material, chosen especially
from pigments, nacres and fillers, and mixtures thereof, and optionally at least one non-
aqueous binder, and
- a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase in the form of a
cosmetic composition, especially a composition for caring for and/or making up a keratin
material.
According to yet another of its aspects, the invention is also directed towards a
cosmetic product comprising at least:
- (iv) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the
hydrophilic dyesruff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the
dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total
weight of the said first composition, at least one non-aqueous binder, at least one coloured
and/or uncoloured pulverant material, and at least one additional ingredient chosen from
surfactants, gelling agents, and optionally polymers, fibres, chelating agents, active agents
and fragrances, and mixtures thereof, and
- a second composition comprising at least water in a content of greater than 80%
by weight relative to the total weight of the said second composition.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process comprising at
least the steps consisting in:
(i) providing at least a first anhydrous composition according to the
invention;
(ii) mixing at least part of the said first composition with at least a
second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase; and
(hi) applying at least part of the mixture obtained in (ii) to the surface of
a keratin material.
According to one particular embodiment, steps (ii) and (iii) of the process
described above may be performed simultaneously.
Advantageously, the first composition under consideration in the process
according to the invention is formed solely or essentially from colouring particles formed
from at least the hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic
binder(s) and the dispersant(s), as defined above.
According to one particular embodiment, the first and second compositions
under consideration according to the invention are packaged separately in the same
packaging article.
In this respect, a subject of the invention is also a packaging assembly
comprising at least:
- a first compartment comprising at least a first anhydrous composition in
accordance with the invention;
- a second compartment comprising at least a second composition comprising
at least one aqueous phase, the said second compartment being, prior to the use of the
assembly, sealably isolated from the first; and
- optionally, means for, for example in response to a command, allowing
communication between the first and second compartments.
According to one particular embodiment, the packaging assembly defined
above may also comprise a means that is suitable for dispensing or applying at least part of

the mixture obtained by placing the said first and second compartments in communication
on a keratin material.
According to one preferred variant, the packaging assembly contains a first
composition formed solely or essentially from colouring particles formed from at least the
hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the
dispersant(s), as defined above.
It is understood that a packaging assembly may comprise several first
compositions, which are different from each other, especially in the nature and/or amount
of their respective colouring particles.
According to this embodiment, the user then has at his disposal an even wider
range of choice in terms of colour effect.
Similarly, a packaging assembly may also comprise several second
compositions.
For example, these second compositions may differ from each other in their
galenical formulation, one being, for example, more particularly intended for forming a lip
gloss and the other a foundation or a fluid makeup powder.
The user then has the possibility via the use of a single first composition, of
being able to adjust to his desire the shade of two types of cosmetic formulation, which are
especially intended for different keratin materials.
Needless to say, the two options under consideration above may be envisaged
in a single packaging.
The present invention is also directed towards an article combining a range of
first compositions in accordance with the invention which differ from each other in their
nature and/or their proportion of colouring particles according to the invention.
The user, having at his disposal such an article, may as he desires give a colour
to or modify the colour of a second composition, by benefiting from a wide range of
colours.
A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of at least a first anhydrous
composition in accordance with the invention for tinting or modifying a colour property of
a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase, especially a cosmetic
composition.

A - FIRST COMPOSITION
As emerges from the foregoing, a first composition according to the invention
comprises at least colouring particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure, the said particles being formed from at least one hydrophilic dyestuff in a
content of greater than or equal to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the said
colouring particles, at least one effervescent system in a content of less than or equal to
20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said colouring particles, at least one
hydrophilic binder, and at least one dispersant that is different from the said hydrophilic
binder.
The different variants of first compositions arising from the present invention
are described above.
The description that follows details the constituent ingredients of the said
colouring particles in accordance with the invention.
I - Hydrophilic dyestuff
For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrophilic" means that the
material under consideration has affinity for water. This affinity is reflected either by
solubility properties or by wettability properties, manifested by the said material on
contact with water, i.e. by homogeneous dispersion of the said material within an aqueous
phase.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "wettability" means the ability of a
surface to be wetted by a given material, in particular by water.
In general, when a liquid is placed in contact with the surface of a solid, it
forms a contact angle of the first on the second. When the wetting is perfect, the contact
angle becomes zero. In this case, the adhesion energy is maximal.
For a given liquid-solid system, the wetting depends on the pressure, the
temperature and the hygromctry.
The wetting may especially be measured by contact-angle tensiometry, by
means, for example, of a DAT 1100 tensiometer sold by the company Fibro (Sweden).
A protocol for evaluating the wetting of a hydrophilic dyestuff of the invention
may especially be as follows.

The hydrophilic dyestuffs are compacted, for example with a force of
10 tons/cm2, to form a flat surface prior to measurement. The contact angle is then
measured 0.1 s after placing a drop of water on the surface.
When the hydrophilic dyestuffs cannot be compacted, the wetting may be
measured by capillary rise using the Washburn equation. A Kruss K12 tensiometer will
then be used, for example, by placing the hydrophilic dyestuffs in a Kruss FL12 sample
holder.
The hydrophilic dyestuffs in accordance with the invention especially have a
contact angle of less than 90°, preferably less than 70° and preferably less than 50°.
The hydrophilic dyestuffs in accordance with the invention, when they are in
the form of particles, especially have a mean particle size of between 0.5 and 100 \im and
preferably between 1 and 100 (am.
Preferably, the solid colouring particles in accordance with the invention
comprise from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 65% to 90% by weight and better
still from 70% to 85%, or even from 75% to 85% by weight, of hydrophilic dyestuff(s)
relative to the total weight of the said colouring particles.
For the purposes of the present invention, these hydrophilic dyestuffs are more
particularly chosen from:
- water-soluble dyes;
- pigments;
- nacres;
- particles with a metallic glint;
- polymeric particles;
- particles with an optical effect; and
- mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred mode of the invention, the hydrophilic dyestuffs are
chosen from pigments, and especially mineral pigments. They are more particularly
chosen from iron oxides, titanium dioxide, pigments with an optical effect, especially with
an interference effect (or iridescent effect) such as mica-titanium oxide, and mixtures
thereof. Iron oxides that may especially be used include yellow, red and black iron oxides.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dye" means any
natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or
water-miscible solvents and which is capable of colouring.
As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may
be made especially of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for instance FDC Red 4, DC
Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC
Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanine (beetroot),
carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot,
hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.
Mention may also be made of juglone, lawsone, fermented soybean extracts,
algal extracts, fungal extracts and microorganism extracts, flavylium salts not substituted
in position 3, for instance those described in patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria
fulgens, Blechum procemm and Saxifraga and pigments that may be obtained via
extraction with an organic or aqueous-organic solvent of a culture medium of
micromycetes of the Monascus monascus type.
As regards the pigments, nacres, particles with a metallic glint and polymeric
particles, they may be compounds that naturally have the required hydrophilic properties.
However, any pigment, nacre, particle with a metallic glint or polymeric
particle that satisfies the required hydrophilic nature of the invention by means of a
suitable surface treatment, for example using a hydrophilic organic agent, is also suitable
for use in the invention.
Generally, a hydrophilic organic agent for surface-treating a material in order
to optimize its dispersion in aqueous medium is more particularly chosen from biological
polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates and polyethylene glycol
derivatives.
The materials thus treated may, in the absence of being soluble in a solvent
medium, such as water, be dispersible therein.
As examples of biological polymers for coating the dyestuffs to be dissolved
according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of
carbohydrate type. More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gum,
chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan,
carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan

lactate, etc., chitins and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate;
cellulose and derivatives thereof such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose;
distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto-arabinans;
glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and derivatives thereof;
and mixtures thereof.
The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or coloured,
mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution, which are intended
to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made
of titanium oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide or
cerium dioxide and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese
violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. According to one
preferred mode, titanium oxides and dioxides and iron oxides (especially yellow, black or
red iron oxide), and mixtures thereof, will be used.
It may also be a pigment having a structure that may be, for example, of
sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example,
under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has
a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
They may also be pigments having a structure that may be, for example, of
silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this
structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-
100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may
be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on
barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP)
described in documents EP-A-0 542669, EP-A-0 787730, EP-A-0 787731 and WO-A-
96/08537.
Advantageously, the pigments in accordance with the invention are iron oxides
and/or titanium dioxides.
The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any
form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their
shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica
coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica
coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous
pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of
which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic
dyestuffs.
Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated
with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
Among the commercially available nacres that may be mentioned are the
nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (on mica base) sold by the company Engelhard,
the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige nacres on mica base sold by
the company Eckart and the Sunshine nacres on synthetic mica base sold by the company
Sun Chemical.
The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange,
brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present
invention, mention may be made of gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company
Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle
gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze
nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384)
(Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name
Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard
under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the
company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)
(Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the
names Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the
nacres with a copper glint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name
Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by the company Merck
under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow glint sold
especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the
red-tinted nacres with a golden glint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the
name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company

Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a golden
glint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240
AB (Timica); the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte
blue (17433) (Microna); the white nacres with a silvery glint sold especially by the
company Merck under the name Xirona Silver; and the golden-green pinkish-orange
nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona),
and mixtures thereof.
The term "particles with a metallic glint", within the meaning of the present
invention, denotes particles whose nature, size, structure and surface state allow them to
reflect the incident light, especially in a non-iridescent manner.
Particles with a substantially flat outer surface are also suitable, since they can,
if their size, structure and surface state allow it, more easily give rise to a strong specular
reflection, which may then be termed a mirror effect.
The particles with a metallic glint that may be used in the invention may, for
example, reflect light in all the components of the visible region without significantly
absorbing one or more wavelengths. The spectral reflectance of these particles may, for
example, be greater than 70% and better still at least 80%, or even 90% or 95%, in the
range 400-700 nm.
These particles generally have a thickness of less than or equal to 1 urn, especially
less than or equal to 0.7 urn and in particular less than or equal to 0.5 urn.
The particles with a metallic glint that may be used in the invention are in
particular chosen from:
- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative,
- particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or mineral
substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at
least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
- mixtures of the said particles.
Among the metals that may be present in the said particles, mention may be
made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge,
Te and Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr, and
mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" is intended to denote compounds derived from
metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
Among the metal derivatives that may be present in the said particles, mention
may be made especially of metal oxides, for instance titanium oxide, especially Ti02, iron
oxide, especially Fe2O3, tin oxide, chromium oxide, barium sulfate and the following
compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfD2, ZrO2,
CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, MoS2, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminium
particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company
Silberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart.
Mention may also be made of metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures
such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, for
instance aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the names Rotosafe 700 from the
company Eckart, silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright
Silver® from the company Eckart, and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated
bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural
Gold® from the company Eckart.
According to a second variant, these particles may be particles comprising a
substrate, which thus have a multilayer structure, for example a two-layer structure. This
substrate may be organic or mineral, natural or synthetic, monomaterial or multimaterial,
solid or hollow. When the substrate is synthetic, it may be made in a form promoting the
formation of a reflective surface after coating, especially after depositing a layer of
materials with a metallic glint. The substrate may, for example, have a flat surface and the
layer of materials with a metallic glint may have a substantially uniform thickness.
The substrate may be chosen in particular from the metals and metal
derivatives as mentioned above, and also from glasses, ceramics, aluminas, silicas,
silicates and especially alumino silicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica such as
fluorophlogopite, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
The layer with a metallic glint may totally or partially coat the substrate and
this layer may be at least partially covered with a layer of another material, for example a
transparent material especially as mentioned above. According to one particular

embodiment, this layer with a metallic glint totally coats the substrate directly or
indirectly, i.e. with interposition of at least one metallic or non-metallic intermediate layer.
The metals or metal derivatives that may be used in the reflective coat are as
defined above. For example, it may be formed from at least one metal chosen from silver,
aluminium, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, tin and magnesium, and
mixtures (alloys) thereof. Silver, chromium, nickel and molybdenum, and mixtures
thereof, are more particularly used.
As illustrations of particles of this second type, mention may be made more
particularly of:
Glass particles coated with a metallic layer, especially those described in
documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-
05017710.
As illustrations of these particles comprising a glass substrate, mention may be
made of those coated, respectively, with silver, gold or titanium, in the form of platelets,
sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine. Particles
comprising a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name
Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal. Particles comprising a
glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name
Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company. Those coated either with brown
iron oxide or with titanium oxide, tin oxide or a mixture thereof, for instance those sold
under the name Reflecks® by the company Engelhard or those sold under the name
Metashine MC 2080GP by the company Nippon Sheet Glass.
These metal-coated glass particles may be coated with silica, for instance those
sold under the name Metashine series PSS1 or GPS 1 by the company Nippon Sheet Glass.
Particles comprising a spherical glass substrate optionally coated with a metal,
especially those sold under the name Prizmalite Microsphere by the company Prizmalite
Industries.
Pigments of the Metashine 1080R range sold by the company Nippon Sheet
Glass Co. Ltd are also suitable for the invention. These pigments, more particularly
described in patent application JP 2001-11340, are C-Glass glass flakes comprising 65%
to 72% SiO2, coated with a layer of titanium oxide of rutile type (TiO2). These glass flakes
have a mean thickness of 1 micron and a mean size of 80 microns, i.e. a mean size/mean

thickness ratio of 80. They have blue, green or yellow glints or a silver shade depending
on the thickness of the TiO2 layer.
Particles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate, also known as
"white nacres".
Particles comprising a metal substrate such as aluminium, copper or bronze, in
the form of platelets, are sold under the trade name Starbrite by the company Silberline
and under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
Particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide,
and for example particles with a size of between 80 and 100 urn, comprising a synthetic
mica (fluorophlogopite) substrate coated with titanium dioxide representing 12% of the
total weight of the particle, sold under the name Prominence by the company Nihon
Koken.
The particles with a metallic glint may also be chosen from particles formed
from a stack of at least two layers with different refractive indices. These layers may be of
polymeric or metallic nature and may especially include at least one polymer layer.
Thus, the particles with a metallic effect may be particles derived from a
multilayer polymer film.
The choice of materials intended to constitute the various layers of the
multilayer structure is obviously made so as to give the particles thus formed the desired
metallic effect.
Such particles are especially described in WO 99/36477, US 6 299 979 and US
6 387 498 and more particularly identified below in the goniochromatic section.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "particles with an optical effect" is
intended to denote any compound such as diffracting pigments, goniochromatic colouring
agents and optical brighteners.
Preferably, particles with an optical effect that are solid at room temperature
and atmospheric pressure are suitable for use in the invention.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diffractive pigment"
denotes a pigment capable of producing a colour variation according to the angle of
observation when lit with white light, on account of the presence of a structure that
diffracts light.

A diffractive pigment may comprise a diffracting network capable, for
example, of diffracting an incident monochromatic light ray in defined directions.
The diffraction network may comprise a periodic unit, especially a line, the
distance between two adjacent units being of the same order of magnitude as the
wavelength of the incident light.
When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction network will separate
the various spectral components of the light and produce a rainbow effect.
Reference may appropriately be made regarding the structure of diffractive
pigments to the article "Pigments Exhibiting Diffractive Effects " by Alberto Argoitia and
Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum coaters, 45th Annual Technical Conference
Proceedings 2002.
The diffractive pigment may be made with units having different profiles,
especially triangular, symmetrical or non-symmetrical, in gaps, of constant or non-
constant width, or sinusoidal.
The spatial frequency of the network and the depth of the units will be chosen
as a function of the degree of separation of the various orders desired. The frequency may
range, for example, between 500 and 3000 lines per mm.
Preferably, the particles of the diffractive pigment each have a flattened form,
and are especially in the form of platelets.
The same pigment particle may comprise two crossed, perpendicular or non-
perpendicular diffraction networks.
A possible structure for the diffractive pigment may comprise a layer of a
reflective material, covered at least on one side with a layer of a dielectric material. The
latter material may give the diffractive pigment better rigidity and durability. The
dielectric material may thus be chosen, for example, from the following materials: MgF2,
SiO2, Al2O3, AlF3, CeF3, LaF3, NdF3, SmF2, BaF2, CaF2, LiF and combinations thereof.
The reflective material may be chosen, for example, from metals and alloys thereof, and
also from non-metallic reflective materials. Among the metals that may be used, mention
may be made of Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb and Cr, and compounds,
combinations or alloys thereof. Such a reflective material may, by itself, constitute the
diffractive pigment, which will then be monolayer.

As a variant, the diffractive pigment may comprise a multilayer structure
comprising a core of a dielectric material covered with a reflective layer at least on one
side, or even totally encapsulating the core. A layer of a dielectric material may also cover
the reflective layer(s). The dielectric material used is then preferably mineral, and may be
chosen, for example, from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, and
metal carbides, and combinations thereof. The dielectric material may be in crystalline,
semi-crystalline or amorphous form. In this configuration, the dielectric material may be
chosen, for example, from the following materials: MgF2, SiO, SiO2, Al2O3, TiO2, WO,
A1N, BN, B4C, WC, TiC, TiN, N4Si3, ZnS, glass particles and carbons of diamond type,
and combinations thereof.
The diffractive pigment used may be chosen especially from those described
in the American patent application US 2003/0 031 870 published on 13 February 2003.
A diffractive pigment may comprise, for example, the following structure:
MgF2/Al/MgF2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being sold under the name
Spectraflair 1400 Pigment Silver by the company Flex Products, or Spectraflair 1400
Pigment Silver FG. The weight proportion of MgF2 may be between 80% and 95% of the
total weight of the pigment.
For the purposes of the invention, a "goniochromatic colouring agent" allows a
colour change, also known as a "colour flop", to be observed as a function of the angle of
observation, greater than that which may be encountered with nacres. One or more
goniochromatic colouring agents may be used simultaneously.
The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen so as to present a
relatively large colour change with the angle of observation.
The goniochromatic colouring agent may thus be chosen such that a colour
difference AE of the cosmetic composition, measured in the CIE 1976 colorimetric space,
of at least 2 may be observed for a variation of the angle of observation of between 0° and
80° under illumination at 45°.
The goniochromatic colouring agent may also be chosen such that a variation
Dh of the hue angle of the cosmetic composition, in the CIE 1976 plane, of at least 30° or
even at least 40° or at least 60°, or even at least 100°, may be observed for an illumination
at 45° and a variation of the angle of observation of between 0° and 80°.

The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from
multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.
In the case of a multilayer structure, it may comprise, for example, at least two
layers, each layer, which may or may not be independent of the other layer(s), being made,
for example, from at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following
materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, A12O3, MgO, Y2O3,
S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn,
MoS2, cryohte, and alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.
The multilayer structure may or may not have, relative to a central layer,
symmetry in the chemical nature of the stacked layers.
Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used
in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the
following structures: Al/SiO2/Al/SiO2/Al, pigments having this structure being sold by the
company Dupont de Nemours; Cr/MgF2/Al/MgF2/Cr, pigments having this structure being
sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS2/SiO2/Al/SiO2/MoS2;
Fe2O3/SiO2/Al/SiO2/Fe2O3, and Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3/SiO2/Fe2O3, pigments having these
structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2/SiO2/mica-
oxide/SiO2/MoS2; Fe203/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/Fe2O3; TiO2/SiO2/TiO2 and
TiO2/Al2O3/TiO2; SnO/TiO2/SiO2/TiO2/SnO; Fe203/SiO2/Fe203; SnO/mica/TiO2/
SiO2/TiO2/mica/SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona
by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be pigments
of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the
company Merck, pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name
Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck, and pigments of silica/titanium
oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the
company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the
company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers,
different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3/SiO2/Al/SiO2/Fe2O3 structure, the
colour changes from green-golden to red-grey for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red
to golden for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to
420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.

Goniochromatic colouring agents with a multilayer structure comprising an
alternation of polymeric layers may also be used.
As illustrations of the materials that can constitute the various layers of the
multilayer structure, it is possible to mention, this list not being limiting: polyethylene
naphthalate (PEN) and its isomers, for example 2,6-, 1,4-, 1,5-, 2,7- and 2,3-PEN,
polyalkylene terephthalates, polyimides, polyetherimides, atactic polystyrenes,
polycarbonates, polyalkyl methacrylates and polyalkyl acrylates, syndiotactic polystyrene
(sPS), syndiotactic poly-a-methylstyrenes, syndiotactic polydichlorostyrene, copolymers
and blends of these polystyrenes, cellulose derivatives, polyalkylene polymers,
fluoropolymers, chloropolymers, polysulfones, polyether sulfones, polyacrylonitriles,
polyamides, silicone resins, epoxy resins, polyvinyl acetate, polyetheramides, ionomeric
resins, elastomers and polyurethanes. Copolymers are also suitable, for example
copolymers of PEN (for example copolymers of 2,6-, 1,4-, 1,5-, 2,7-, and/or 2,3-
naphthalenedicarboxylic acid or the esters thereof with (a) terephthalic acid or its esters;
(b) isophthalic acid or its esters; (c) phthalic acid or its esters; (d) alkane glycols;
(e) cycloalkane glycols (for example cyclohexanedimethanol diol); (f) alkanedicarboxylic
acids; and/or (g) cycloalkanedicarboxylic acids, polyalkylene terephthalate copolymers
and styrene copolymers. In addition, each individual layer may include blends of two or
more of the above polymers or copolymers. The choice of materials intended to constitute
the various layers of the multilayer structure is, of course, made so as to give the particles
thus formed the desired optical appearance.
As examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, mention may
be made of those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.
The liquid-crystal colouring agents comprise, for example, silicones or
cellulose ethers onto which are grafted mesomorphic groups.
Examples of liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles that may be used include,
for example, those sold by the company Chenix and also the products sold under the name
Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
These agents may also be in the form of dispersed goniochromatic fibres. Such
fibres may, for example, have a size of between 50 μm and 700 μm, for example about
300 μm. Interference fibres with a multilayer structure may be used in particular. Fibres
with a multilayer structure of polymers are described especially in documents

EP-A-0 921 217, EP-A-0 686 858 and US-A-5 472 798. The multilayer structure may
comprise at least two layers, each layer, which may or may not be independent of the other
layer(s), being made of at least one synthetic polymer. The polymers present in the fibres
may have a refractive index ranging from 1.30 to 1.82 and better still ranging from 1.35 to
1.75. The polymers that are preferred for making the fibres are polyesters such as
polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polycarbonate; acrylic polymers
such as polymethyl methacrylate; polyamides.
Goniochromatic fibres with a polyethylene terephthalate/nylon-6 two-layer
structure are sold by the company Teijin under the name Morphotex.
In one variant, this goniochromatic colouring agent may be combined with at
least one diffractive pigment.
The combination of these two materials results in a composition or a film that
has increased colour variability, and thus which is capable of allowing an observer to see a
colour change, or even a colour movement, under various observation and lighting
conditions.
The weight ratio of the diffractive pigment relative to the goniochromatic
colouring agent is preferably between 85/15 and 15/85, better still between 80/20 and
20/80 and better still between 60/40 and 40/60, for example about 50/50. Such a ratio is
favourable towards obtaining a strong rainbow effect and a strong goniochromatic effect.
"Optical brighteners" are compounds that are well known to those skilled in
the art. Such compounds are in particular described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agent,
Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", Vol. 11, pp. 227-241, 4th Edition,
1994, Wiley. They may be defined more particularly as compounds that absorb essentially
in the UVA range between 300 and 390 nm and re-emit essentially between 400 and 525
nm. Among the optical brighteners that may be mentioned more particularly are stilbene
derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinestilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in
particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole,
triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives and porphyrin derivatives, and
mixtures thereof. Such compounds are widely commercially available.
Mention may be made, for example, of: the naphthotriazole stilbene derivative
sold under the trade name Tinopal GS, disodium 4,4'-distyrylbiphenylsulfonate
(CTFA name: disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate) sold under the trade name Tinopal

CBS-X, the cationic aminocoumarin derivative sold under the trade name Tinopal SWN
Cone, the sodium 4,4'-bis[(4,6-dianilino-l,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2'-
disulfonate sold under the trade name Tinopal SOP, the 4,4'-bis[(4-anilino-6-bis(2-
hydroxyemyl)arnino-l,3,54ria2m-2-yl)amuio]stilbene-2,2'-disulfomc acid sold under the
trade name Tinopal UNPA-GX, the 4,4'-bis[anilino-6-morpholine-l,3,5-triazin-2-
yl)amino]stilbene sold under the trade name Tinopal AMS-GX, the disodium 4,4'-bis[(4-
anilmo-6-(2-hydroxyethyl)memylamino-l,3,5-triazin-2-yl)amino]stilbene-2,2'-sulfonate
sold under the trade name Tinopal 5BM-GX, all by the company Ciba Specialties
Chimiques, 2)5-thiophenediylbis(5-tert-butyl-l,3-benzoxazole) sold under the trade name
Uvitex OB by the company Ciba, the anionic derivative of diaminostilbene as a dispersion
in water, sold under the trade name Leucophor BSB Liquid by the company Clariant, and
the optical brightener lakes sold under the trade name Covazur by the company Wackherr.
The optical brighteners that may be used in the present invention may also be
in the form of copolymers, for example acrylates and/or methacrylates, grafted with
optical brightener groups as described in patent application FR 99/10942.
In particular, the fibres coated with optical brightener as sold by the company
LCW under the trade reference Fiberlon 54 ZO3, with a length of about 0.4 mm and a yarn
count of 0.5 denier, may be used.
II - Effervescent system
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "effervescent system" is
intended to denote an acid/base couple.
An "acid/base couple" refers to an acid and a base that are capable of
interacting with each other, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
This reactivity may especially be reflected by the manifestation of effervescent
properties, especially on contact with an aqueous medium.
In particular, the proportions of acid and base will correspond substantially to
the stoichiometric equilibrium of the effervescent reaction between the two constituents.
Thus, the base is more particularly a substance that is capable of generating a
gas, CO2, on contact with the associated acid and water.

(Bi)carbonates or an anhydrous salt thereof, phosphates, polyphosphates,
alkali metal peroxides, such as sodium perborate and sodium percarbonate, and azides,
and mixtures thereof, are most particularly suitable in this respect.
According to one preferred embodiment, the base is represented by an alkali
metal or alkaline-earth metal (bi)carbonate that is chosen for its reactivity with regard to
the associated acid. Its choice clearly falls within the competence of a person skilled in the
art.
Among the examples of (bi)carbonate compounds that may be used in the
context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of sodium (bi)carbonate,
potassium (bi)carbonate, magnesium (bi)carbonate and calcium (bi)carbonate, and
mixtures thereof.
Sodium (bi)carbonate and potassium (bi)carbonate are most particularly
suitable for use in the invention.
Advantageously, a base in accordance with the invention is sodium
bicarbonate.
Its amount is also adjusted with regard to that of the associated acid.
As regards the acid component, it is preferably an organic acid.
Among the organic acids that may be used in a solid anhydrous composition
according to the invention, any organic acid that is compatible with cosmetic topical use
will be chosen, especially C2 to C22 carboxylic acids. The acid in accordance with the
invention must be soluble in water at room temperature.
As examples of acids that are suitable in the context of the present invention,
mention may be made especially of carboxylic acids, diacids and triacids, especially o>
and (3-hydrocarboxylic acids.
According to one preferred embodiment, an acid that is suitable for use in the
invention is an organic acid that may be chosen especially from acetic acid, citric acid,
lactic acid, gluconic acid, tartaric acid, ascorbic acid, succinic acid, malic acid, malonic
acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, maleic acid, phthalic acid,
glutamic acid, aspartic acid, glycolic acid, tartronic acid, hydroxybenzoic acid, salicylic
acid, tropic acid, cinnamic acid, phenylacetic acid, nicotinic acid, sorbic acid and
trimellitic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the organic acid is
chosen from acetic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, gluconic acid, adipic acid
and malic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the organic acid in accordance with the invention is citric
acid.
According to one preferred embodiment, the acid/base couple is the citric
acid/sodium (bi)carbonate couple.
According to one preferred embodiment, the mole ratio between the acid and
the base ranges from 0.5 to 10, in particular from 1 to 6 and preferably from 1.5 to 3.
The colouring particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure in accordance with the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight,
preferably from 5% to 15% by weight and better still from 8% to 12% by weight of
effervescent system(s), relative to their total weight.
Ill - Hydrophilic binder
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic binder" is
intended to denote any compound chosen from C4-C32 polyols and polyoxyethylenated
ethers.
Hydrophilic binders that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure, and which preferably have a melting point ranging from 30°C to 120°C and
preferably from 40°C to 100°C, are more particularly suitable for use in the invention.
The solid hydrophilic binders in accordance with the invention have rapid
dissolution properties in aqueous medium, i.e. the dissolution takes place over a maximum
period of 30 minutes at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in water, at a binder
concentration of at least 0.1% by weight, preferably of at least 0.5% by weight and better
still of at least 1% by weight.
Preferably, the solid colouring particles in accordance with the invention may
comprise from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight and better
still from 4% to 8% by weight, or even from 5% to 8% by weight, of hydrophilic
binder(s), relative to their total weight.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyol" should be
understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl
groups.
A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may be a compound of linear,
branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on each alkyl chain at least
two -OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions and more particularly at
least four -OH functions.
The polyols that are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition
according to the present invention are those especially containing from 4 to 32 carbon
atoms and preferably 4 to 12 carbon atoms.
According to one particular mode of the invention, the polyol is a compound
of linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl
chain at least four -OH functions.
According to another embodiment, a polyol that is suitable for use in the
invention may be advantageously chosen from polyethylene glycols.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise a
mixture of polyols.
Advantageously, the polyol may be chosen, for example, from ethylene glycol,
pentaerythritoL, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol,
isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols such as
glycerol oligomers, for instance diglycerol, erythritol, arabitol, adonitol, sorbitol,
mannitol, xylitol, maltitol, lactitol, volemitol, dulcitol, glucose, fructose, xylose, trehalose,
sucrose, maltose, saccharose and lactose, and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the said polyol is
chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol,
polyglycerols, erythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, maltitol, lactitol and volemitol, and
mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a mixture of polyol(s) that is suitable for use in
the invention may advantageously comprise at least one compound of linear, branched or
cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl type, bearing on the alkyl chain at least four -OH
functions, and preferably at least sorbitol.

A polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may advantageously be
natural or of natural origin.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyoxyethylenated
ethers" means any compound derived from the addition of alkene oxides to a sugar.
The polyoxyethylenated ethers in accordance with the invention may be
chosen from polyethylene oxide or polyethylene glycol (PEG), polypropylene glycol
(PPG) and polytetramethylene glycol (PTMG), and mixtures thereof.
According to one particularly preferred mode of the invention, the hydrophilic
binder is a polyol.
Advantageously, a hydrophilic binder in accordance with the invention is
sorbitol.
IV - Dispersant
A dispersant that is suitable for use in the invention protects the various
ingredients of the colouring particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure against their aggregation or flocculation when it is placed in contact with an
aqueous composition.
The dispersant according to the invention is different from the
abovementioned hydrophilic binder.
A dispersant may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of
several thereof, bearing one or more functionalities that have strong affinity for the surface
of the compounds to be dispersed.
In particular, they may be physically adsorbed onto the surface of the particles
to be dispersed.
The colouring particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric
pressure in accordance with the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight,
preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 7% by weight, or even
from 2% to 5% by weight of dispersant(s), relative to the total weight of the said particles.
According to one particular embodiment, a dispersant in accordance with the
invention is a surfactant.

As dispersants that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made
especially of surfactants with high hydrophilicity, with an HLB of greater than 10,
preferably greater than 13 and more particularly greater than 15.
The term "HLB of greater than or equal to 10" means a surfactant having, at
25°C, an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), within the Griffin meaning, of
greater than or equal to 10.
The HLB value according to Griffin is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954
(volume 5), pages 249-256.
Reference may also be made to Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical
Technology, volume 22, pp. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the
(emulsifying) properties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 of this
reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.
Reference may also be made to surfactants with an HLB of greater than or
equal to 10 that are cited in McCutcheons Emulsifiers & Detergents, International edition
of 1998 et seq. Examples that may be mentioned are those given on pages 223 to 231 of
the HLB Index section of the 1998 edition.
A surfactant that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from ionic,
anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The surfactant is
preferably nonionic.
The nonionic dispersant may be chosen from polyoxyethylene glycol ethers or
esters (POE/PEG ethers or esters) or polyoxypropylene glycol ethers or esters (PPG ethers
or esters), from sugar ethers or esters, from glycerol or polyglycerol ethers or esters and
from ethoxylated glyceride esters (POE glyceryl esters) or from mixtures thereof.
The POE ethers according to the invention may be, for example, PEG-40
hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 stearate, jojoba wax
PEG-120 ester, PEG-100 stearate or PEG-100 isostearate.
The sugar esters according to the invention may be, for example, sucrose
laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose myristate, sucrose stearate or lauryl glucoside.
The ethoxylenated glycerides according to the invention may be chosen from
PEG-80 glyceryl soyate, PEG-20 glyceryl stearate, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-42
babassu glycerides, PEG-60 evening primrose glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-

45 palm kernel glycerides, PEG-60 maracuja glycerides or PEG-192 apricot kernel
glycerides.
The nonionic dispersant is preferably a polyoxyethylenated ether, preferably
with an HLB of greater than 15. This POE ether may be chosen, for example, from
ceteareth-20, steareth-20, oleth-20, beheneth-25, steareth-21, ceteareth-25 and the
oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol containing 25 oxyethylene groups, C12-13
pareth-23, oleth-30, laureth-23 or ceteareth-30.
The anionic dispersant may be chosen from sulfuric acid esters (sodium lauryl
sulfate, sodium cetearyl sulfate), phosphoric acid esters (laureth-4 phosphate) and
sarcosine derivatives (lauroyl sarcosine).
Advantageously, a dispersant in accordance with the invention is a nonionic
surfactant.
Even more advantageously, a dispersant in accordance with the invention is an
oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol, preferably of ceteareth-25 type.
V- Non-aqueous binder
Advantageously, a non-aqueous binder in accordance with the invention may
be chosen from oils, especially volatile and non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon-based,
silicone or fluoro type, as described below, or from polyols as described previously.
B - PROTOCOL FOR PREPARING COLOURING PARTICLES
The various compounds constituting the colouring particles that are solid at
room temperature and atmospheric pressure of the invention are dry-mixed, in proportions
in accordance with the invention.
However, the effervescent system will have been prepared beforehand by
mixing the acid and the base, especially citric acid and sodium (bi)carbonate, both in
crystalline form, in the stoichiometric proportions of the effervescent reaction between the
two constituents.
The anhydrous mixture of the said compounds obtained is heated on a water
bath, at a temperature that especially makes it possible to reach the melting point of the
hydrophilic binder, until the said binder is completely liquid. The binder will thus be

chosen as a function of its solubility (as high as possible in water) but also as a function of
its melting point, preferably less than 120°C, and even more preferentially less than
100°C.
The mixture is then cooled so as to ensure its precipitation in the form of solid
colouring particles, which are collected and maintained under moderate stirring until
completely cooled, so as to prevent them from aggregating into blocks.
The solid colouring particles are screened by screening through a screen with a
mesh size, for example, of 1 mm or even less than 1 mm, and more particularly of between
50 μm and 5 mm. The colouring particles may especially have a size of between 50 μm
and 5 mm, or even between 50 μm and 2 mm, or finally between 50 μm and 500 μm
In particular, the manufacturing process may include the following steps:
- preparation of the effervescent system, for example by mixing citric acid
and sodium (bi)carbonate in crystalline form, in stoichiometric properties,
- dry mixing of the pigments with the effervescent system, and a dispersant
chosen, for example, from polyoxyethylenated ethers such as ceteareth-25, and a polyol
such as sorbitol,
- heating the mixture to a temperature of about 100°C, to melt the polyol
such as sorbitol, and then
- cooling the whole and subjecting it to moderate stirring until completely
cooled to prevent aggregation into blocks,
- screening the particles obtained to the desired particle size.
As indicated previously, the said first composition may be either formed solely
from or essentially from, or else formed partly from the said solid colouring particles and
may then be, in the case of this latter alternative, in the form of a first "simplex" or
"complex" composition as described previously.
In the latter alternative, the protocol for preparing such compositions differs
from that described above only by the addition, after obtaining the colouring particles, of
coloured and/or uncoloured pulverant material(s), optionally of the non-aqueous binder(s)
and of the additional ingredient(s) defined previously, according to the standard protocols
for formulating cosmetic compositions.

C - VARIOUS FORMS OF FIRST COMPOSITION
C-l Composition formed solely or essentially from colouring particles in
accordance with the invention.
A first composition may be formed solely or essentially from colouring
particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure formed from at least
one hydrophilic dyestuff in a content of greater than 60% by weight, of at least one
effervescent system in a content of less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the said colouring particles, of at least one hydrophilic binder and of at least one dispersant
that is different from the said hydrophilic binder.
More particularly, the dyestuff is advantageously between 75% and 85% by
weight, the effervescent system is advantageously between 5% and 15% by weight, the
hydrophilic binder is advantageously between 5% and 8% by weight and the dispersant is
advantageously between 2% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the said
colouring particles.
Thus, advantageously, an anhydrous cosmetic composition of this type is
formed totally or partly of colouring particles that are solid at room temperature and
atmospheric pressure formed from 80% by weight of hydrophilic dyestuff(s), 10% by
weight of effervescent system(s), 6% to 7% by weight of hydrophilic binder(s) and 3% to
4% by weight of dispersant(s), relative to the total weight of the said first composition.
The said composition may also comprise a non-aqueous binder, as described
previously.
C-2 Composition formed only partly from colouring particles in accordance
with the invention.
A first such composition formed only partly from colouring particles in
accordance with the invention, i.e. which may also comprise at least one coloured and/or
uncoloured pulverant material and optionally at least one non-aqueous binder, may be, for
example, an anhydrous solid composition such as a foundation, eye shadow, face powder
or blusher composition, especially in compact or loose form.
In particular, the said composition will comprise at least one coloured and/or
uncoloured pulverant material, chosen especially from pigments, nacres and fillers, and
mixtures thereof.

In particular, they will be fillers.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "fillers" should be understood as
meaning colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble and
dispersed form in the medium of the composition. These fillers, of mineral or organic,
natural or synthetic nature, give the composition softness and give the makeup result a
matt effect and uniformity.
The fillers may be mineral or organic, of any form, platelet-shaped, spherical
or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic,
hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin,
polyamide powder (Nylon ), poly-|3-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, powders of
tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, boron nitride, bismuth
oxychloride, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene
chloride/acrylonxtrile, for instance Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), acrylic acid copolymer
microspheres, silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearls® from Toshiba),
elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium
carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminium
oxides, polyurethane powders, colouring fillers, hollow silica microspheres, glass or
ceramic microcapsules, and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing
from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc,
magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, a first anhydrous composition of this type, and in particular a
"simplex" composition, may comprise from 10% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20%
to 60% by weight and better still from 30% to 50% by weight of ftller(s) relative to the
total weight of the said composition.
A first "complex" composition, as described previously, will comprise, besides
the non-aqueous binder and the coloured and/or uncoloured pulverant materials, at least
one additional ingredient chosen from surfactants, gelling agents, optionally polymers,
fibres, chelating agents, active agents and fragrances, and mixtures thereof. Examples of
such additional ingredients are described below.
The first composition according to the invention may be in a solid to pasty
form or in a fluid form. Advantageously, it will be in a solid to pasty form.

C - SECOND COMPOSITION
As stated previously, for the purposes of the invention, a "second
composition" is a composition comprising at least one aqueous phase.
The said aqueous phase may be free or trapped, on or in particles. The second
composition may thus be in a fluid, gelled or pulverant form. In the latter case, the
aqueous phase adsorbed onto solid particles may then be released by mechanical shear in
the course of mixing with the first composition.
The placing in contact of the first composition with this second composition
comprising at least one aqueous phase causes spontaneous dispersion of the solid
colouring particles comprising the hydrophilic dyestuff(s).
The aqueous phase of this second composition comprises water and, where
appropriate, at least one water-soluble solvent.
In the present invention, the term "water-soluble solvent" denotes a compound
that is liquid at room temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater
than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the compositions according to
the invention may also be volatile.
Among the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the second composition
in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols
containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols containing
from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol
and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.
The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be
present in the second composition in a content ranging from 10% to 100% by weight and
preferably ranging from 20% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
According to one particular embodiment, and especially when the first
composition is formed solely or essentially from colouring particles according to the
invention, the second composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising
at least one aqueous phase that is compatible with the first anhydrous composition of the

invention, in particular a composition for caring for, for the hygiene of and/or for making
up a keratin material.
Still according to this embodiment, the second composition may be in the form
of an emulsion.
The second composition according to the invention may in particular be in the
form of an emulsion obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W/O) or a
fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk
type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively a
multiple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O).
These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
According to one particular variant of this embodiment, the second
composition is an O/W emulsion, which may be, for example, in the form of a care cream.
Advantageously, the second composition has a viscosity at 20°C greater than
orequaltol5 000cP.
The second composition according to the invention can also comprise at least
one surfactant.
The surfactant can be chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic
surface-active agents, preferably nonionic surface-active agents.
When a product according to the invention is intended to the care and/or
makeup for the skin and/or lips, nonionic or anionic surface-active agents are preferred, in
particular non-ionic surface-active agents.
When a product according to the invention is a hair product, cationic surface-
active agents are preferred.
Mention may in particular be made, alone or as mixtures, of:
a) nonionic surface-active agents with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C,
optionally in combination with one or more nonionic surface-active agents with an HLB
of greater than 8 at 25 °C, such as mentioned below, for example:
- monosaccharide esters and ethers, such as sucrose stearates, sucrose
cocoate, sorbitan stearate and their mixtures;
- esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24 and, preferably, C16-C22 fatty
acids, and of polyols, in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate,
glyceryl laurate, polyglyeery 1-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate and glyceryl ricinoleate;

- lecithins, such as soya bean lecithins;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which can comprise from 1
to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of
C8-C24 and, preferably, C12-C18 alcohols), such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl
alcohol comprising 2 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: Steareth-2);
- silicone surfactants, such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone
copolyols, for example the cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol mixture sold under the
name Q2-3225C® by Dow Corning;
b) nonionic surface-active agents with an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 at
25°C, for example:
- monosaccharide esters and ethers, such as the mixture of cetearyl glucoside
and of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, for example Montanov 68 from Seppic;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers which can comprise
from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethers (which can comprise from 1
to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units) of fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24
and, preferably, C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl
alcohol comprising 20 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: Steareth-20), the oxyethylenated
ether of cetearyl alcohol comprising 30 ethylene oxide units (Ceteareth-30) and the
oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 ethylene
oxide units (C12-15 Pareth-7);
- esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24 and, preferably, C16-C22 fatty
acids, and of polyethylene glycol (or PEG) (which can comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene
oxide units), such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate;
- esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24 and, preferably, C16-C22 fatty
acids, and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which can comprise
from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units), such as polyoxyethylenated
glyceryl monostearate comprising 200 ethylene oxide units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl
stearate comprising 30 ethylene oxide units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl oleate
comprising 30 ethylene oxide units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate comprising 30
ethylene oxide units, polyoxyethylenated glyceryl isostearate comprising 30 ethylene
oxide units and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl laurate comprising 30 ethylene oxide units;

- esters of fatty acids, in particular C8-C24 and, preferably, C16-C22 fatty
acids, and of oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which can comprise
from 1 to 150 ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide units), such as polysorbate 20 and
polysorbate 60;
- dimethicone copolyol, such as Q2-5220® from Dow Coming;
- dimethicone copolyol benzoate, such as Finsolv SLB 101® and 201® from
Finetex;
"" propylene oxide and ethylene oxide copolymers, also known as EO/PO
polycondensates, which are copolymers composed of polyethylene glycol and
polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene
glycoI/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates;
c) anionic surfactants, such as:
- salts of C16-C30 fatty acids, in particular amine salts, such as
triethanolamine stearate or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-l,3-diol stearate;
- salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular amine salts or alkali
metal salts, and their mixtures;
- phosphoric esters and their salts, such as "DEA oleth-10 phosphate"
(Crodafos N ION from Croda) or monopotassium monocetyl phosphate;
- sulphosuccinates, such as "Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate"
and "Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfosuccinate";
- alkyl ether sulphates, such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate;
- isethionates;
- acylglutamates, such as "Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate"
(Amisoft HS-21 R® from Ajinomoto) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (Amisoft HS-11
PF® from Ajinomoto);
- soya bean derivatives, such as potassium soyate;
- citrates, such as glyceryl stearate citrate;

- proline derivatives, such as sodium palmitoyl proline or the mixture of
sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and
palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);
- lactylates, such as sodium stearoyl lactylate;
- sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate or the 75/25 mixture of

stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine;
- sulphonates, such as sodium CI4-17 sec alkyl sulphonate;
- glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate;
d) cationic surfactants, such as:
- alkylimidazolidiniums, such as isostearyl ethylimidonium ethosulphate;
- ammonium salts, such as (C12-30 alkyl)tri(Cl-4 alkyl)ammonium halides,
such as N;N,N-trimethyl-l-docosanaminium chloride (or behentrimonium chloride);
e) amphoteric surfactants, such as N-acylamino acids, for example N-
alkylaminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxides, such as
stearamine oxide.
According to one particular mode of the invention, the second composition
comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. The said nonionic surfactant may be a nonionic
silicone surfactant or a hydrocarbon-based nonionic surfactant. Advantageously, a
hydrocarbon-based nonionic surfactant will be used in the case of an O/W emulsion.
Nonionic silicone surfactant
The nonionic silicone surfactant is preferably chosen from polydimethyl (or
dialkyl) silicones containing polyoxyalkylenated (polyoxyethylenated (or POE) and/or
polyoxypropylenated (or PPO)) hydrophilic side and/or end groups, polydialkyl silicones
containing polyglycerolated or glycerolated side and/or end groups, and a mixture thereof.
The nonionic silicone surfactant may be chosen in particular from:
- a C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or
oxyethylenatedpolymethyl(C8-C22)alkyldimethylmethylsiloxane.
The C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol is advantageously a compound of
formula (I) below:


- PE represents (-C2H4O)x-(C3H6O)y-R, R being chosen from a hydrogen
atom and an alkyl radical of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x ranging from 0 to 100 and y ranging
from 0 to 80, x and y not simultaneously being 0
- m ranging from 1 to 40
- n ranging from 10 to 200
- o ranging from 1 to 100
- p ranging from 7 to 21
- q ranging from 0 to 4
and preferably:
R = H
m= 1 to 10
n- 10 to 100
o = 1 to 30
p=15
q = 3
A C8-C22 alkyl dimethicone copolyol that may be mentioned is
cetyldimethicone copolyol, for instance the product sold under the name Abil EM-90 by
the company Goldschmidt.
- a dimethicone copolyol, i.e. an oxypropylenated and/or oxyethylenated
polydimethylmethylsiloxane. It does not contain any long-chain alkyl groups of more than
8 carbon atoms, especially C8-C22.
Dimethicone copolyols that may be used are those corresponding to formula
(II) below:

in which:
R1, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a
radical -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)-OR4, at least one radical R1, R2 or R3 not
being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;
A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; on condition that A and B are not

simultaneously equal to zero;
x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;
z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of
formula (II), R1 = R3 = methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an
integer ranging from 4 to 30. R4 is in particular a hydrogen.
As examples of compounds of formula (II), mention may be made of the
compounds of formula (IE):
(CH3)3SiO - [(CH3)2SiO] A - (CH3SiO)B - Si(CH3)3
(HI)
(CH2)2-(OCH2CH2)y-OH
in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2
to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
As examples of silicone compounds of formula (II), mention may also be
made of the compounds of formula (IV):
HO - (CH2CH2O)y-(CH2)3 - [(CH3)2SiO]A' - [(CH3)2Si] - (CH2)3 - (OCH2CH2)y - OH
(IV)
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
Dimethicone copolyols that may be used include those sold under the names
DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning; KF-
6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 by the company Shin-Etsu.
The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of
formula (III) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is
12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
The nonionic silicone surfactant is preferably chosen from:
I - polydimethyl (or dialkyl) silicones containing polyoxyalkylenated
polyoxyethylenated (or POE) and/or polyoxypropylenated (or POP) hydrophilic side
and/or end groups. Furthermore, these silicone surfactants preferably comprise alkyl side
groups that are more hydrophobic than the previously mentioned linear or branched d to
C20 and preferably C4 to C20 side and/or end groups, preferably linear alkyl groups, such as

lauryl or cetyl. These surfactants may also bear organosiloxane side groups.
In particular, in this first category, mention may be made of:
- polydimethylsiloxanes containing POE side and/or end groups, especially
such as KF-6011, KF-6012, KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016 and KF-6017 from the company
Shin-Etsu or bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone & cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name
Abil EM 97 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt;
- polydimethylsiloxanes containing POE side groups and alkyl side groups,
especially such as cetyl PEG-PPG 10/1 and dimethicone, sold under the name Abil EM 90
by the company Evonik Goldschmidt;
- branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing POE side groups, especially such
as PEG-9 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6028 by the
company Shin-Etsu;
- branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl side groups, especially
such as lauryl PEG-9 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6038
by the company Shin-Etsu.
II - polydialkyl silicones containing polyglycerol or glycerol side and/or end
groups. These silicone surfactants also preferably comprise linear or branched C1 to C20
alkyl side groups, and preferably also linear alkyl groups such as lauryl or cetyl. Similarly,
these silicone and glycerolated surfactants may also bear organosiloxane side groups.
In particular, mention may be made in this category of:
- polydimethylsiloxanes containing polyglycerol side groups, such as
polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6100 by the company
Shin-Etsu;
- branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing polyglycerol side groups, such as
polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone, sold under the name KF-6104 by
the company Shin-Etsu;
- branched polydimethylsiloxanes containing polyglycerol side groups and
alkyl side groups, such as lauryl polyglyceryl-3 polydimethyl siloxyethyl dimethicone,
sold under the name KF-6105 by the company Shin-Etsu.
Among the nonionic silicone surfactants, cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone
sold under the name Abil EM 90 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt is preferred.

According to another embodiment, bis-paying/PPG-14/14 dimethicone &
cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Abil EM 97 by the company Evonik Goldschmidt
is used as nonionic silicone surfactant.
It is also possible to use a mixture of these two preferred nonionic silicone
surfactants.
The nonionic silicone surfactant may be present in the second composition
according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably
ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 7% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant
Among the nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactants, mention may be made
especially of:
- fatty alcohols;
- polyol esters of a fatty acid containing a saturated or unsaturated chain
comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, i.e. derivatives comprising oxyethylene
and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and
oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof;
- polyethylene glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated
derivatives thereof;
- sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof;
- sugar (sucrose, glucose or alkylglucose) esters of C8-C24 fatty acids, and
oxyalkylenated derivatives thereof;
- fatty alkyl ethers;
- sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and
- mixtures thereof.
Fatty alcohols that may especially be mentioned include cetyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol, behenyl alcohol and myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Glyceryl esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned include
glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or
glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of polyglycerolated

fatty acid esters comprising at least 3 glycerol ether units, such as polyglyceryl-3; and in
particular polyglyceryl-4 isostearate sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by the company
Evonik Goldschmidt.
Polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids that may especially be mentioned
include polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate)
and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50
stearate) and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate),
and mixtures thereof.
Mixtures of these surfactants may also be used, for instance the product
containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the
company Croda, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monodistearate)
and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt (CTFA
name: glyceryl stearate SE).
Fatty acid esters of glucose or of alkylglucose that may be mentioned in
particular include glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates, for instance
methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates, for instance methylglucose
palmitate or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside and more especially
the diester of methylglucoside and of oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate);
the mixed ester of methylglucoside and of the oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid mixture
(CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxysterate); the ester of methylglucoside and
of isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate); the ester of methylglucoside
and of lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate); the mixture of the monoester and
diester of methylglucoside and of isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose
sesquiisostearate); the mixture of the monoester and diester of methylglucoside and of
stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product
sold under the name Glucate SS by the company Amerchol, and mixtures thereof.
Examples of oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and of glucose or of
alkylglucose that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated ethers of a fatty acid and
of methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methyl
glucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name:
PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate), such as the product sold under the name Glucam E-20
distearate by the company Amerchol; the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of

monoester and diester of methylglucose and of stearic acid containing about 20 mol of
ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the
product sold under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by the company Amerchol, and the
product sold under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by the company Goldschmidt, and
mixtures thereof.
Examples of sucrose esters that may be mentioned include sucrose
palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.
Examples of fatty alkyl ethers that may be mentioned include polyethylene
glycol ethers of fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from
10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl
alcohol or of cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol). Examples that
may be mentioned include ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100
oxyethylene groups, such as those of CTFA name Ceteareth-20 and Ceteareth-30, and
mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of fatty alkyl ethers of polyglycerols with at
least 3 glyceryl ether units; fatty alkyl ethers of polyoxyalkylenes (POE and/or POE/POP)
with at least 3 POE groups.
Sugar ethers that may especially be mentioned are alkylpolyglucosides, for
example decylglucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the
company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 by the company
Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC;
caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 by
the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF;
laurylglucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and
Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside, for instance the product sold
under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; cetostearyl glucoside
optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name
Montanov 68 by the company SEPPIC, under the name Tego-Care CG90 by the company
Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by the company Henkel; arachidyl
glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol
and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company SEPPIC;
cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl alcohol

and stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Montanov 82 by the company SEPPIC; and
mixtures thereof.
The nonionic hydrocarbon-based surfactant may be present in the second
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight,
preferably ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.5% to
7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another particular embodiment, when the first composition is in a
"complex" form, the second composition may in particular comprise more than 80% by
weight, preferably more than 85% by weight and better still more than 90% by weight of
water relative to its total weight.
Such a composition may especially take the form of an aqueous solution,
lotion or gel.
According to one variant of this embodiment, the second composition of the
invention is water.
The second composition may also comprise one or more gelling agents, which
are especially hydrophilic, i.e. they are soluble or dispersible in water.
Hydrophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned in particular include water-
soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These polymers may be chosen
especially from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold
under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich;
polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel
and Norgel by the company Guardian or under the name Hispagel by the company
Hispano Chimica; polyacrylamides; optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized
2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, for instance the
poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the
name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide);
crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, which are in the form of a
W/O emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 (CTFA name:
PoIyacrylamide/C13-14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) and under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA
name: Acrylamide/Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/Isohexadecane/
Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance
xanthan gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan

derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose,
carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydraxypropylcellulose; sodium
hyaluronate; and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred mode, the second composition comprises at least one
hydrophilic gelling agent chosen among polysaccharide biopolymers, for instance xanthan
gum, guar gum, carob gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives,
carrageenans, gellans, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose,
carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcelluiose; sodium
hyaluronate; and mixtures thereof.
According to a more particular preferred mode, the second composition
comprises at least xanthan gum as hydrophilic gelling agent.
According to a more particular preferred mode, the second composition
comprises at least sodium hyluronate as hydrophilic gelling agent.
According to a particular mode, the second composition of the invention is an
aqueous gel, in particular a gel of modified or non modified carboxyvinyl polymers such
as the product sold under the name Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company
Goodrich.
Such gel is generally known to be slightly compatible with classic pigments. A
first composition according to the invention presents the advantage to allow to
homogeneously pigment this second composition.
Examples of lipophilic gelling agents that may be mentioned include modified
clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone Gel VS38 from Rheox), or hectorite
modified with distearyldimethylammomum chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium
hectorite) sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox.
The second composition may also comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
The compositions of this type may be in the form of a face, lips and/or body
care or makeup product, and may be conditioned, for example, in the form of cream in a
jar or of fluid in a tube or a pump-dispensing bottle.

OTHER COMPONENTS THAT MAY BE CONTAINED IN THE FIRST
AND/OR SECOND COMPOSITIONS
Physiologically acceptable medium
A composition of the invention may also comprise a physiologically
acceptable medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a
medium that is particularly suitable for applying a product of the invention to keratin
materials, especially the skin and more particularly to facial skin.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of
the support onto which the product is to be applied, and also to the aspect in which the
solid anhydrous composition or the product is to be conditioned.
Liquid fatty phase
Either of the first and second compositions of the invention may also comprise
at least one fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and
especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
The term "oil" means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room
temperature and atmospheric pressure.
An oily phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions
according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils
or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one
embodiment variant, oils of plant origin are preferred.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term 'Volatile oil" means an oil
(or non-aqueous medium) that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less
than one hour, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a
volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero
vapour pressure, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a
vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mmHg), preferably
ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3
Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an
oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil
comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
The term "fluoro oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen
and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus
atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
Volatile oils
The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from
8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as
isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane),
isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or
Permethyl®.
Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance
volatile linear or cyclic silicones, especially those with a viscosity < 8 centistokes (cSt)
(8X10-6 m2/s) and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2
to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing
from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention,
mention may be made especially of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclo-
hexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptarnethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl-
disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethyl-
pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
Volatile fluoro oils may also be used, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or
perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
No n-volatile oils
The non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile
hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned
include:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin;
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as
phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl
glutamate (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS203), triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of
glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to
C36 and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or. branched, and
saturated or unsaturated; these oils may especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides,
shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower
oil, shea butter, aloe vera oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil,
avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, canola oil,
carrot oil, safflower oil, flax oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil,
wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St John's
Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose
oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, winter squash
oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor
oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid
triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under
the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl
ether;
- synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1
represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms
and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing
from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 > 10. The esters may be chosen
especially from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl
alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance
isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate,
neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, and
isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate,

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl
tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or
unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-
octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol;
- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid,
and mixtures thereof;
- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different,
such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis; and
- oils of high molar mass, in particular with a molar mass ranging from about
400 to about 2000 g/mol and in particular from about 650 to about 1600 g/mol. As oils of
high molar mass that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made
especially of linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for
instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2
triisostearate, aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate, esters of branched C24-C28 fatty
alcohols or fatty acids, such as those described in patent US 6 491 927, and pentaerythritol
esters, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-
decyl)tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-
decyl)tetradecanoate; phenyl silicones, such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company
Wacker (MM = 9000 g/mol), non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs
comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups that are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain,
these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than
or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
Additive
Either of the first and second compositions of the invention may also comprise
any additive usually used in the field concerned, chosen, for example, from pigments,
nacres, fillers and surfactants, different from those mentioned previously, but also chosen
from waxes, pasty compounds, gums, semi-crystalline polymers, plasticizers, gelling

agents, thickeners, chelating agents, fibres, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizes, UV
stabilizers, and mixtures thereof.
It is a matter of routine operations for a person skilled in the art to adjust the
nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the
invention such that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not thereby affected.
According to one embodiment, a product of the invention may advantageously
be intended for forming a foundation.
PACKAGING ARTICLE
As indicated previously, one aim of the invention is to propose an easy means
for giving a colour and for modifying and/or correcting the colour properties of a cosmetic
composition.
Thus, a subject of the invention is also a packaging article comprising at least
a first composition according to the invention, or even several first compositions.
For the purposes of an article, a first composition may be in various forms, for
example in the form of a loose or compact powder.
According to a first variant, when the said first composition is a loose powder,
the article may be in the form of a sachet, optionally water-soluble, which may, where
appropriate, be immersed as such in an aqueous medium forming the composition to be
dyed.
It may also be a capsule, a spoon, a salt cellar or a mill, the particles of which
are released by the user.
According to a second variant, when the said first composition is a compacted
or aggregated powder, it may be placed on the surface of an article intended to come into
contact with the aqueous medium forming the composition to be coloured.
Thus, like a match, the first composition may be deposited onto one of the
ends of an article in a longitudinal form of stick type. The placing in contact of the first
composition is then performed by dipping at least the coated end of the first composition
in the composition to be coloured.
If necessary, the dissolution of the first composition may be accelerated by
manual stirring of this end in the composition to be coloured.

The article may also be in the form of a water-soluble nonwoven material, or
water-soluble granules or beads intended to be introduced as such into the composition to
be dyed.
For the sake of optimum storage, but also for ease of use, the articles defined
above may be in the form of single doses, and may thus allow the user to perform
extemporaneous mixing between the first composition and the composition to be dyed,
especially the second composition, for example in the palm of the hand, or in the
packaging article containing the composition to be dyed (jar, etc.), or directly onto the site
of application or into or onto an associated support.
According to a particular mode, the extemporaneous mixing between the first
composition and the composition to be dyed, especially the second composition, is not
realized inside the packaging article comprising the composition to be dyed but rather in
the palm of the hand.
The user may use one or more single doses of first composition, as a function
of the desired colour effect.
According to another variant, said first composition, especially under loose
powder form, may be glued on a water-insoluble solid support, for example a paper or a
paperboard support, so that it is still possible to take the powder with an applicator, such
as for example a brush or a finger, and to mix it with a small amount of the second
composition.
The mixture thus obtained may or may not be intended for a single use, in
which case the user is capable of subsequently correcting the colour properties of the said
mixture.
The invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below.
Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as mass percentages.

Example 1: Solid anhydrous compositions formed solely from colouring
particles in accordance with the invention

* Pigments = yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, red iron oxide, black iron oxide,
titanium dioxide, taken alone or as a mixture.
Various compositions of type A that will be named PI to P4 in the rest of the
examples are prepared, with:
PI = composition A with yellow iron oxide (Sunpuro Yellow Iron Oxide C33-9001, sold
by the company Sun),
P2 = composition A with red iron oxide (Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-8001, sold by the
company Sun),
P3 = composition A with black iron oxide (Sunpuro Black Iron Oxide C33-7001, sold by
the company Sun),
P4 = composition A with titanium dioxide (Hombitan FF Pharma, sold by the company
Sachtleben).


Each of the compositions A and B is obtained according to the protocol defined
in the description.
It is found that such solid anhydrous compositions, formed solely from
colouring particles in accordance with the invention, when they are mixed with a second
composition comprising at least one aqueous phase, or even water in a concentration of
3% to 20% by weight and better still from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total
weight of the mixture obtained, disperse spontaneously therein at room temperature while
ensuring immediate and optimum colour development of the said second composition.
Example 2: Comparative example with respect to the content of dispersant
Four compositions a, b, c and d formed solely from colouring particles in
accordance with the invention and as defined in the table below are prepared according to
the protocol defined in the description.



Cremophor A25® is formed from oxyethylenated (25 OE) cetylstearyl alcohol.
The pigments used in this example are red iron oxides in accordance with those
used in Example 1.
The solid anhydrous compositions formed essentially from colouring particles
in accordance with the invention thus obtained are then mixed as described below with
demineralized water at room temperature, so as to observe the self-dispersing properties of
the pigments they contain.
To do this, they are firstly introduced with stirring into a flask containing
150 ml of deionizcd water, at a pigment concentration of 0.01% by weight relative to the
total weight of the solution obtained.
The spontaneous dispersion of the pigments is then observed over time, for
5 minutes, at regular intervals, and especially at 1, 5, 10, 20 and 30 seconds, and then at 1
and 5 minutes.
In parallel, particle size measurements are performed using a Malvern
Mastersizer 2000 laser granulometer.
The introduction of the solid anhydrous compositions formed essentially from
colouring particles in accordance with the invention is then performed in demineralized
water, with stirring.
The measurement is taken after a waiting time of 5 minutes.
The table below collates the results obtained.
The solid anhydrous compositions formed solely from colouring particles in
accordance with the invention which have good self-dispersibility properties, i.e. which
induce a gradual coloration of water, are indicated IC (Intense Coloration) or WC (Weak
Coloration), and those that show no capacity for spontaneous dispersion are indicated UC
(Uncoloured).

The mean diameter of the pigments (d(0.5) in um), once dispersed, is also
indicated.

The results obtained thus confirm that the presence of Cremophor A 25® is
essential for obtaining good spontaneous wettability properties of the colouring particles
formed solely from the anhydrous compositions tested, and especially from pigments.
In the context of this example, it is observed that a minimum concentration of
about 1% by weight of Cremophor A 25® relative to the total weight of the colouring
particles in accordance with the invention is beneficial to better wetting of the pigments
contained in the said solid anhydrous composition formed solely from colouring particles
in accordance with the invention, and thus to more intense colour development.
The efficacy of the dispersion is also reflected by a small particle size of the
pigments, especially less than 1 |im, after only a few minutes in water. This particle size is
compatible with satisfactory colour development.
Example 3: Comparative example with respect to the content of effervescent
system
Four compositions e, f, g and h formed solely from colouring particles in
accordance with the invention and as defined in the table below are prepared according to
the protocol defined in the description.



The pigments used in this example are red iron oxides in accordance with those
used in Example 1.
The solid anhydrous compositions thus obtained are then mixed with
demineralized water at room temperature as described in Example 2, so as to observe the
self-dispersion properties and the particle size of the pigments they contain.

The results obtained thus confirm that the presence of the effervescent system
makes it possible to obtain good spontaneous wettability properties of the solid anhydrous
composition formed solely from colouring particles in accordance with the invention, and
especially of pigments.
A minimum concentration of effervescent system of about 8% to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the colouring particles in accordance with the
invention is beneficial to better wetting of the pigments, and thus to more intense
colouring development.
Beyond this minimum concentration, the colour variation is not significant.
The efficacy of the dispersion is greater and is reflected by a smaller particle size of the
pigments, especially less than 1 µm, after only a few minutes in water. This particle size is
compatible with satisfactory colour development.
Additional tests were performed in emulsion, by dispersing the said solid
anhydrous compositions formed solely from colouring particles in accordance with the
invention, with gentle manual stirring, into a care cream in accordance with Example 4.2.2

below, such that the product of the two compositions comprised 10% by weight of
pigments, which represents a standard pigment content in a foundation.
These tests showed that beyond 20% by weight of effervescent system relative
to the total weight of the said colouring particles in accordance with the invention, the
presence of foam may be detected at the surface of the product obtained, especially
associated with the evolution of gas during the effervescence, which is not desirable for
the user.
Example 4: Illustration of products in accordance with the invention
4.1 : Examples of first composition formed solely from colouring particles
in accordance with the invention
P1 to P4 as defined in Example 1 are used. They are used alone or as a mixture.

4.2 : Examples of second composition
4.2.1: Composition of a W/O foundation

The starting materials of phase Al are mixed together and homogenized with
stirring at room temperature.
The starting materials of phase A2 are poured in gently with continued stirring
at room temperature, until the said starting materials of phase A2 have totally dispersed.
Slurrying of phase A4 is then performed with a portion of phase A3, and the
slurry thus obtained is ground using a 3-roll mill (3 times). Phases A4 and A3 are then
added to the mixture of phases Al and A2, with stirring in the manufacturing tank.
Phase B is then added with Moritz stirring at 1500 rpm, and the mixture is
homogenized until an emulsion is obtained with cooling. Finally, the starting materials of
phase C are added, so as to obtain a foundation of beige shade.


The various starting materials of phase B are mixed together and homogenized
at room temperature until completely dissolved.
Since the presence of glycerol may be detrimental to the speed of the operation,
this compound may also be added once the mixing of the other starting materials has been
performed.
The starting materials of phase Al are then added and the mixture thus
obtained is heated to 72°C until melting and dissolution are complete.
The mixture is then cooled to 65°C.
The starting materials of phase A2 are added while maintaining a constant
temperature of the mixture at 62°C and homogenizing until the acrylate copolymer has
correctly dispersed, so as especially to avoid any setting on the walls.
The starting material of phase C is then added and the mixture is homogenized
until the gel has fully dispersed with cooling to room temperature and until an emulsion is
obtained.


The starting materials of phase B are mixed together and homogenized at room
temperature until the sodium hydroxide has completely dissolved.
The starting materials of phase A are added and the mixture thus obtained is
heated to 72°C, until melting and dissolution of the various compounds is complete.
The mixture is then cooled to 65°C with continued homogenization of the
mixture so as especially to avoid any setting on the walls.
The starting material of phase C1 is then added, followed by the starting
materials of phase C2.
The mixture is homogenized until dispersion of the gel is complete with
cooling to room temperature and until an emulsion is obtained.



The starting materials of the above table are mixed together by simple
mechanical stirring. The mixture thus obtained is in the form of a pulverant composition.
4.3 : Examples of extemporaneous preparation
4.3.1: First composition formed solely from colouring particles in accordance
with the invention in combination with a W/O foundation
2% of composition A as described in Example 1, in which the pigment is red
iron oxide, are added to 98% of a W/O foundation composition of Example 4.2.1 above.
The product of these two compositions is mixed together with manual stirring
for 1 minute.
The shade of the foundation thus obtained changes when composition A is
introduced and becomes pinky-beige.
4.3.2: First composition formed solely from a mixture of colouring particles in
accordance with the invention in combination with an O/W care cream
1.50% of P1, 0.71% of P2, 0.29% of P3 and 10% of P4, defined above, are
simultaneously introduced into 87.50% by weight of a care cream of Example 4.2.2 above.
Manual mixing is performed using a spatula until a pigmented cream of
uniform beige colour is obtained.
The product thus obtained is uniform in colour and the dispersion of the
pigments is regular and fine. It shows good cosmetic properties and good ease of
application. The makeup effect is natural, it unifies in transparency and leaves the skin
moisturized.

4.3.3: First composition formed solely from a mixture of colouring particles
according to the invention in combination with a care cream
1.50% of P1, 0.71% of P2, 0.29% of P3 and 10% of P4, defined above, are
simultaneously introduced into 87.50% by weight of a care cream of Example 4.2.3 above.
The introduction by manual stirring of the various colouring particles into the
care cream shows that the pigmentary dispersion is uniform and easy, without any lumps
of pigment on application. The application of the product is slippery, the film is uniform
and the coverage is light.
4.3.4: First composition formed solely from a mixture of colouring particles in
accordance with the invention in combination with a care cream
The end of a wooden or plastic stick is impregnated with butylene glycol and
rolled in a mixture comprising 12% of PI, 5.68% of P2, 2.32% of P3 and 80% of P4,
defined above, the said mixture being prepared beforehand using a Novamix 1L
mixer/granulator from RPA Process Technologies.
The stick rolling operation is repeated until a ball of the desired size is
obtained.
The stick is then dried in an oven at 45°C for 24 hours.
This tool is then dipped into a dose of 1 gram of care cream of Example 4.2.2
above.
The colour development observed is immediate and uniform. The care cream
takes a beige shade. The makeup effect is uniform on the skin and leaves a natural finish.
4.3.5: First composition formed solely from a mixture of colouring particles in
accordance with the invention in combination with a pulverant care
composition containing an aqueous phase
Preliminary mixing of 12% of P1, 5.68% of P2, 2.32% of P3 and 80% of P4,
defined above, is performed using a Novamix 1L mixer/granulator from RPA Process
Technologies.

0.15 g of this mixture is then introduced into 1 g of a composition of
Example 4.2.4 above.
The said product is prepared on the back of the hand, by simple mechanical
stress. The water contained in the powder is released under mechanical pressure and
allows wetting of the pigments. The product obtained is a pigmented aqueous cream
which, when applied to the skin, gives a natural and uniform makeup result.
4.3.6: First "simplex" composition in combination with a care cream
Preliminary mixing of 8.57% of P1, 4.06% of P2, 1.66% of P3 and 57.11% of
P4, defined above, and 28.6% of methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer sold under the
name Micropearl M305 by the company SEPPIC, is performed using a Novamix 1L
mixer/granulator from RPA Process Technologies.
The simplex composition thus obtained is then mixed with a care composition
as defined in Example 4.2.2 above.
The cosmetic composition thus obtained is coloured in a beige shade, and
produces a matt result, of natural and uniform colour on the skin.
4.3.7: First "complex" composition in the form of a self-emulsifying powder in
water
Preliminary preparation of composition P5 is performed as illustrated by the
table below.


Phase A is prehomogenized using a mixer (household mini-mixer). Phase B is
then added to the pulverant mixture previously obtained and the whole is rehomogenized
in the mixer. A white preparation in powder form is then obtained. Phase C is finally
incorporated and homogenized with phases A + B in the mixer.
50% of composition P5 and 50% of demineralized water are then placed in
contact and mixed together, at room temperature.
The product thus obtained is a creamy uniform foundation of beige shade.
Application to the skin is fresh and gives a uniform makeup result.

CLAIMS
1. Cosmetic product comprising at least:
- a first anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising at least colouring
particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the said particles
being formed from:
- at least one hydrophilic dyestuff in a content of greater than or equal
to 60% by weight relative to their total weight,
- at least one effervescent system in a content of less than or equal to
20% by weight relative to their total weight,
- at least one hydrophilic binder, and
- at least one dispersant that is different from the said hydrophilic
binder; and
- a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase.
2. Cosmetic product according to Claim 1, comprising at least:
(i) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the hydrophilic
dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binder(s) and the dispersant(s) in a
total content of greater than or equal to 98% by weight relative to the total weight of the
said first composition, and a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase in
the form of a cosmetic composition, especially for caring for and/or making up a keratin
material, or
(ii) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the hydrophilic
dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binder(s) and the dispersant(s) in a
total content of greater than or equal to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the
said first composition and at least one non-aqueous binder in particular in a content of less
than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the said first composition,
and a second composition comprising at least one aqueous phase in the form of a cosmetic
composition, especially for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, or
(iii) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the
hydrophilic dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binders) and the
dispersant(s) in a total content of greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the
total weight of the said first composition, at least one coloured and/or uncoloured

pulverant material, chosen especially from pigments, nacres and fillers, and mixtures
thereof, and optionally at least one non-aqueous binder, and a second composition
comprising at least one aqueous phase in the form of a cosmetic composition, especially a
composition for caring for and/or making up a keratin material, or
(iv) a first composition comprising colouring particles formed from at least the hydrophilic
dyestuff(s), the effervescent system(s), the hydrophilic binder(s) and the dispersant(s) in a
total content of greater than or equal to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the
said first composition, at least one non-aqueous binder, at least one coloured and/or
uncoloured pulverant material, and at least one additional ingredient chosen from
surfactants, gelling agents, and optionally polymers, fibres, chelating agents, active agents
and fragrances, and mixtures thereof, and a second composition comprising at least water
in a content of greater than 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the said second
composition.
3. Product according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrophilic
dyestuff is chosen from:
- water-soluble dyes;
- pigments;
- nacres;
- particles with a metallic glint;
- polymeric particles;
- particles with an optical effect; and
- mixtures thereof.

4. Product according to either of Claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the said
solid colouring particles comprise from 60% to 95% by weight, preferably from 65% to
90% by weight and better still from 70% to 85%, or even from 75% to 85% by weight of
hydrophilic dyestuff(s) relative to their total weight.
5. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the effervescent system is an acid/base couple, especially in a mole ratio ranging from 0.5
to 10, in particular from 1 to 6 and preferably from 1.5 to 3.
6. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the said solid colouring particles comprise from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from

5% to 15% by weight and better still from 8% to 12% by weight of effervescent system(s),
relative to their total weight.
7. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the hydrophilic binder is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and
preferably has a melting point ranging from 30°C to 120°C and preferably from 40°C to
100°C.
8. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the hydrophilic binder is chosen from C4-C32 polyols and polyoxyethylenated ethers.
9. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the said solid particles comprise from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10%
by weight and better still from 4% to 8% or even from 5% to 8% by weight of hydrophilic
binder(s), relative to their total weight.
10. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the dispersant is chosen from nonionic, anionic and cationic surfactants, and mixtures
thereof with an HLB of greater than 10, preferably greater than 13 and better still greater
than 15.
11. Product according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the
dispersant is a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of greater than 10, preferably an
oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol, preferably of ceteareth-25 type.
12. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that
the said solid colouring particles comprise from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from
0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 7% or even from 2% to 5% by weight
of dispersant(s), relative to their total weight.
13. Cosmetic process comprising at least the steps consisting in:
(i) providing at least a first anhydrous composition as defined according to any
one of Claims 1 to 12;
(ii) mixing at least part of the said first composition with at least a second
composition comprising at least one aqueous phase; and
(iii) applying at least part of the mixture obtained in (ii) to the surface of a
keratin material.

14. Cosmetic use of at least a first anhydrous composition as defined according
to any one of Claims 1 to 12 for tinting or modifying a colour property of a second
composition comprising at least one aqueous phase, especially a cosmetic composition.

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates especially to a cosmetic product comprising at least: - a first anhydrous cosmetic
composition comprising at least colouring particles that are solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, the said particles
being formed from: - at least one hydrophilic dyestuff in a content of greater than or equal to 60% by weight relative to their total
weight, - at least one effervescent system in a content of less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to their total weight, - at least
one hydrophilic binder, and - at least one dispersant that is different from the said hydrophilic binder; and - a second composition
comprising at least one aqueous phase.