Two-part cosmetic product
The invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising a first aqueous composition
comprising an acid active agent or a peroxide, and a foaming second aqueous
composition.
It also relates to the use of this cosmetic assembly in the cosmetic or dermatological
field or to a cosmetic method comprising the application of this assembly to the skin.
The acid active agents or the peroxides such as H20 2, used for their antibacterial
properties on the skin or their hair lightening properties, are difficult to formulate in
foaming compositions because maintaining an acid pH necessary for the stability of the
active agent involves the use of surfactant bases that are stable at this pH, which limits
the choice of possible (amphoteric, nonionic, sulphonate) surfactants.
Moreover, in order to exhibit an optimum activity, these active agents may need to be
activated by a basic compound that is incompatible in the acid formulation.
For this, two-part foaming products have been proposed, one part of which comprises
a composition based on an acid active agent and the other part of which comprises a
foaming composition, for example document WO 2008/045174 proposes a two-part
product comprising a composition A containing a foaming amphoteric surfactant and a
composition B containing hydrogen peroxide, said compositions being mixed before
application to the skin. However, the mixture obtained is liquid, not very thick and not
very foaming.
Thus, the formulation of a two-part product involves the constraint that the two
compositions each have a high viscosity, in gel form, in order to be readily handleable
and mixable so that the final composition resulting from the mixture is homogeneous
and cosmetically acceptable.
However the hydrophilic gelling agents that are widely used, such as polymers based
on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid or acrylate polymers, are sensitive to
salts and bringing them into contact with a foaming composition rich in salts introduced
by the foaming surfactants leads to a drop in the viscosity and therefore a significant
fluidification of the mixture: the desired consistency is not therefore maintained.
It is therefore sought to formulate a two-part foaming product based on acid active
agents or on peroxide, which has good foaming properties, the viscosity of which is
maintained.
The applicant had been able to show that a cosmetic assembly combining a gelled
composition based on acid active agents or on peroxide and a foaming composition
comprising particular surfactants in a defined ratio makes it possible to satisfy the
requirements specified above.
One subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic assembly comprising:
a) a first aqueous composition comprising:
at least one active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, b-hydroxy
acids and mixtures thereof, and
at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic
group,
and
b) a second aqueous composition comprising:
- an anionic foaming surfactant and an amphoteric foaming surfactant in an
amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to 80/20,
- the total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants being greater than or equal
to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, and
- a gelling polymer.
The use of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention makes it possible to
obtain, after mixing of the first and second compositions, a stable gelled foaming
composition that has a satisfactory viscosity.
The cosmetic assembly according to the invention may be used for the cosmetic
treatment of keratin materials such as the skin and keratin fibres such as the hair.
It may be used especially for the treatment of oily skin, seborrhea and dermatitides
which are associated with seborrhea, especially acne and/or blackheads and/or
comedones.
The cosmetic assembly according to the invention may also be used for lightening
keratin materials.
Another subject of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin
materials, comprising the application to the latter of the cosmetic assembly according
to the invention, after mixing the compositions forming said assembly.
Another subject of the invention is thus a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin
materials consisting in applying to the keratin materials at least one layer of a mixture:
- of a first aqueous composition comprising:
at least one active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, b-
hydroxy acids, and
- at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a
sulphonic group,
and
- of a second aqueous composition comprising:
- an anionic foaming surfactant and an amphoteric foaming surfactant in an
amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to 80/20,
- the total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants being greater than or
equal to 0% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition,
and
- a gelling polymer.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the first and second
compositions of the cosmetic assembly are mixed in a ratio, by weight, of between
100/50 and 80/100, preferably between 100/80 and 80/100.
According to one embodiment variant, the mixing of the compositions is carried out
within said assembly just before use and therefore before application to at least one
keratin material.
According to another embodiment, the mixing is carried out during the application to
the keratin materials.
According to one embodiment, the mixture is applied to the keratin materials in the
presence of water, followed by a massaging step to make it foam, then the foam
formed and the soiling residues are removed by rinsing with water.
According to one embodiment, the mixture is used as a mask, i.e. it is applied to the
keratin materials, and then is rinsed with water after a leave-on time of 1 to 10 minutes.
Another subject of the present invention is an assembly for packaging and dispensing
compositions forming a product according to the invention, said assembly comprising
at least two independent compartments comprising, respectively, each of said
compositions and being adjusted for dispensing two compositions separately or as a
mixture.
The first and second compositions each comprise a physiologically acceptable
medium, i.e. a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials and
that has a pleasant appearance, odour and feel.
The compositions forming the cosmetic assembly according to the invention will now
be described in detail.
Each first and second composition according to the invention preferably has a
viscosity, at 20°C, greater than or equal to 2 Pa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 3
Pa.s. The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat 180 machine (from the company
Lamy) equipped with an MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5 spindle, chosen as
a function of the consistency of the composition, rotating at a shear rate of 200 s
Within the context of the invention, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or
more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in
that range.
FIRST COMPOSITION
The first composition of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention is therefore
an aqueous composition comprising:
at least one active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, b-hydroxy
acids, and
at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic
group.
Active agent
The active agent may be chosen from peroxides, acid active agents such as a-hydroxy
acids, b-hydroxy acids, and mixtures thereof.
Peroxide
Within the context of the present invention, the term "peroxide" denotes any type of
organic or inorganic peroxide. Preferably, the peroxide compound is inorganic, it is
especially chosen from hydrogen peroxide H20 2 and a metal peroxide, especially
sodium peroxide, calcium peroxide, barium peroxide, magnesium peroxide, lithium
peroxide and zinc peroxide.
Mention may especially be made, as organic peroxide, of urea peroxide.
Preferably, the peroxide used in the first composition is hydrogen peroxide (for
example, CAS number 7722-84-1).
By way of example, mention may be made of the 50% hydrogen peroxide solution sold
by the company Sigma Aldrich Fine Chemicals.
g-hydroxy acids and b-hydroxy acids
The -hydroxy acids that can be used in the composition of the invention are acids
comprising at least one -C(OH)-COOH group, especially monoacids, diacids or triacids.
Keto acids such as vitamin C are excluded from this definition.
These a-hydroxy acids are compounds of formula (I):
R2
R 1—C-COOH
OH
in which R 1 and R2, independently of one another, may be chosen from H, CH3,
CHOHCOOH, CH2COOH, COOH, CH2OH(CHOH) x where x is an integer ranging from
1 to 6 , and C6H5.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the a-hydroxy acids that can
be used in the composition of the invention are chosen from citric acid, lactic acid,
glycolic acid, gluconic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, and mixtures thereof, and also the
plant extracts containing same, especially fruit extracts.
As b-hydroxy acids that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may
be made, for example, of salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkoyl
derivatives, i.e. its derivatives of formula (II):
in which:
- R represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:
in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 26
carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an amine or thiol function
optionally substituted by an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and
preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,
- R2 and R3, independently of one another, are in position 3 , 4 , 5 or 6 on the benzene
ring and represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a radical:
-(0) n-(CO)m-R5
in which n and m, independently of one another, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1;
on condition that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;
- R5 represents a hydrogen, a linear, branched or cyclized, saturated, aliphatic radical
comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, an unsaturated radical comprising from 3 to
18 carbon atoms, bearing one to nine conjugated or unconjugated double bonds, it
being possible for the radicals to be substituted by at least one substituent chosen
from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals,
hydroxyl radicals in free form or esterified with an acid comprising from 1 to 6 carbon
atoms, or carboxyl radicals which are free or esterified with a lower alcohol
comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical comprising from 6 to 10
carbon atoms.
Preferred salicylic acid derivatives of formula (II) are those in which represents a
hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is in position 5 of the benzene
ring, and R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical comprising from 3 to 15 carbon
atoms.
When the composition contains a salicylic acid derivative of formula (II), the derivative
in question may be, in particular, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid,
5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-nheptyloxysalicylic
acid, 5-te/f-octyl-salicylic acid, 3-te/f-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, 3
te/f-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-
octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-noleoylsalicylic
acid, 5 benzoylsalicylic acid, their monovalent and divalent salts, and
mixtures thereof. The derivative in question is preferably 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid
(INCI name: Capryloyl Salicylic acid).
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, when the first composition
contains a b-hydroxy acid, this is preferably salicylic acid.
According to one preferred embodiment, the active agent present in the first
composition is a peroxide, preferably an inorganic peroxide, preferably hydrogen
peroxide.
The active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, and b-hydroxy acids may be
present in the first composition according to the invention in a content ranging from
0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still
ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition.
Polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group
The polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group that are
used in the composition of the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible or
water-swellable. The polymers used in accordance with the invention may be
homopolymers or copolymers and can be obtained from at least one ethylenically
unsaturated monomer containing a sulphonic group, which may be in free form or
partially or completely neutralized form. These polymers may optionally comprise at
least one hydrophobic group and then constitute an amphiphilic polymer (or
hydrophobic modified polymer).
Preferentially, the polymers in accordance with the invention may be partially or
completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or
aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or
triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids,
for instance arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally
neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" means polymers that are
completely or virtually completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
The polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a numberaverage
molecular weight ranging from 000 to 20 000 000 g/mol, preferably ranging
from 20 000 to 5 000 000 g/mol and even more preferentially from 100 000 to
1 500 000 g/mol.
These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.
The monomers containing a sulphonic group of the polymer used in the composition of
the invention are especially chosen from vinylsulphonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid,
(meth)acrylamido(Ci-C 22)alkylsulphonic acids, N-(Ci-C 22)alkyl(meth)acrylamido(Cr
C22)alkylsulphonic acids such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulphonic acid, and also
partially or completely neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers containing a
sulphonic group are chosen from (meth)acrylamido(Ci-C 22)alkylsulphonic acids, for
instance acrylamidomethanesulphonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulphonic acid,
acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, 2-
methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulphonic acid,
2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulphonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulphonic
acid and 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulphonic acid, and also partially or
completely neutralized forms thereof, and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, use is made of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid
(AMPS), and also partially or completely neutralized forms thereof.
When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the
polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers
obtained by radical polymerization.
Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl
ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl
ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol
di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide,
methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate,
tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl
(meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl
ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also the allylic esters of phosphoric and/or
vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is
chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane
triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to
10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
When the polymers used are homopolymers, they only comprise monomers containing
a sulphonic group and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents.
The preferred AMPS homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise,
randomly distributed:
a) from 90% to 99.9% by weight of units of general formula (III) below:
in which X+ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or
the ammonium ion, not more than 10 mol% of the cations X+ possibly being protons H+;
b) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of crosslinking units originating from at least one
monomer containing at least two olefinic double bonds; the weight proportions being
defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.
The homopolymers according to the invention that are more particularly preferred
comprise from 98% to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (III) and from 0.2% to 2% by
weight of crosslinking units.
A polymer of this type that may especially be mentioned is the crosslinked and
neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid homopolymer sold by the
company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium
polyacryldimethyltauramide).
The polymer may also be an amphiphilic homopolymer (or hydrophobic modified
homopolymer) selected from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction
with a C6-C22 n-monoalkylamine or di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in
document WO A 00/31 154, which are graft homopolymers.
When the polymers used are copolymers they can be obtained from ethylenically
unsaturated monomers containing a sulphonic group and other ethylenically
unsaturated monomers, i.e. ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a sulphonic
group.
The ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulphonic group are chosen from
those described above.
The ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a sulphonic group may be chosen
from ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, ethylenically unsaturated
hydrophobic monomers and mixtures thereof. When the polymer contains hydrophobic
monomers it constitutes an amphiphilic polymer (also referred to as hydrophobic
modified polymer).
The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers may be selected for example from
(meth)acrylic acids, b-substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained
with monoalcohols or monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides,
vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, maleic acid or
mixtures of these compounds.
When the polymer of the composition according to the invention is a copolymer that
can be obtained from ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulphonic
group and ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, it may be selected in
particular from:
(1) crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide or methacrylamide and of 2-
acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulphonic acid, especially those in the form of a W/O
emulsion, such as those sold under the name Sepigel 305 by the company Seppic
(CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-14 lsoparaffin/Laureth-7), under the name
Simulgel 600 by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium
acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80);
(2) copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate and of 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulphonic acid, in particular the optionally salified copolymers of 2-
acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxylated C2-C4 alkyl
(meth)acrylate.
The hydroxylated C2-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer may be chosen from 2-
hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl acrylate and
2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylate.
Said copolymer may be salified, in particular in the form of an alkali metal salt such as,
for example, the sodium or potassium salt, or in the form of an ammonium salt, or in
the form of a salt of an amino alcohol, such as, for example, the monoethanolamine
salt, or in the form of an amino acid salt, such as, for example, the lysine salt.
Advantageously, the copolymer is salified in sodium salt form.
Preferably, the composition comprises the copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulphonic acid and of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, in particular in sodium
salt form, for instance those sold under the trade names Sepinov® EMT 10 or Simulgel®
NS (sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate
copolymer as a 40% inverse emulsion in Polysorbate 60 and squalane) (CTFA name:
hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/squalane/polysorbate
60) by the company SEPPIC ( INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer) .
Such polymers are described in application FR-A-2856691 .
Mention may also be made of Simulgel EG sold by the company SEPPIC (copolymer
of acrylic acid/acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulphonic acid in sodium salt form, as a
45% inverse emulsion in isohexadecane/water) (CTFA name: Sodium acrylate/Sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/lsohexadecane/Polysorbate 80), and (3)
copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of vinylpyrrolidone or
vinylformamide, such as the products sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by the
company Clariant.
When the monomers containing a sulphonic group are copolymerized with ethylenically
unsaturated hydrophobic monomers comprising a hydrophobic chain, also referred to
as a fatty chain (C6-C50 chain), the polymer obtained is amphiphile, i.e. it comprises
both a hydrophilic portion and a hydrophobic portion. Such polymers are also referred
to as hydrophobic modified polymers.
These hydrophobic modified polymers may also contain one or more monomers
comprising neither a sulphonic group nor a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, b-
substituted alkyl derivatives thereof or esters thereof obtained with monoalcohols or
monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone,
vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid, or mixtures of these
compounds.
As hydrophobic modified polymers, use may be made in particular of those capable of
being obtained from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) and at least
one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one group
containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms,
more preferably still from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon
atoms.
These polymers are described especially in documents EP-A-750 899, US-A-5 089 578
and WO-A-2002/43689, and in the following publications from Yotaro Morishima:
- Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese
Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;
Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-
methylpropanesulphonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as
studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33,
No. 10 - 3694-3704;
- Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound
to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No.
12, 5324-5332;
- Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-
methylpropanesulphonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div.
Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221 .
The hydrophobic monomers of these particular polymers are preferably selected from
the acrylates, alkylacrylates, acrylamides or alkylacrylamides of formula (IV) below:
(III)
in which and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a
substantially linear or branched C C6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or
NH; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 6 to 50 carbon atoms,
more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably still from 6 to 18 carbon
atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles
of alkylene oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.
The R2 radical is preferably selected from substantially linear C6-C 8 alkyl radicals (for
example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl or lauryl, or n-octadecyl or
stearyl radicals); branched C6-C 8 alkyl radicals; cyclic C6-C 8 alkyl radicals (for
example cyclododecane (C12) or adamantane (Cio) radicals); C6-C 8 alkylperfluorinated
radicals (for example the group of formula -(CH 2)2-(CF 2 ) 9-CF 3) ; the cholesteryl (C2 )
radical or a cholesterol ester residue, such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; or
polycyclic aromatic groups, such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, the
ones that are more particularly preferred are substantially linear alkyl radicals and more
particularly the n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl radical, and mixtures thereof.
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula
(IV) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x > 1) and preferably several alkylene
oxide units (x > 1) forming a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain is
preferentially formed from ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even
more particularly formed from ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units (or
number of moles of alkylene oxide) generally ranges from 3 to 100, more preferably
from 3 to 50 and more preferably still from 7 to 25.
Among these polymers, mention may be made of:
- copolymers, which may or may not be crosslinked and which may or may not be
neutralized, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85%
by weight of (C8-C 6)alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or of (C8-C 6)alkyl (meth)acrylate units
relative to the polymer, such as those described in document EP-A-750 899;
- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol%
to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C6-C 8)alkylacrylamide
units relative to the polymer, such as those described in document US-A-5,089,578;
- uncrosslinked copolymers of partially or completely neutralized AMPS and of ndodecyl
methacrylate, n-hexadecyl methacrylate or n-octadecyl methacrylate, such as
those described in the Morishima articles mentioned above;
- crosslinked or uncrosslinked copolymers of partially or completely neutralized AMPS
and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles
mentioned above.
As hydrophobic modified polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the
copolymers constituted of (i) 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS)
units of formula (III) indicated above, in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an
alkaline-earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, and (ii) units of formula (V) below:
in which x denotes an integer varying from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50, and more
preferably from 7 to 25; has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula
(IV) and R4 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 22 carbon
atoms and preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
The hydrophobic modified polymers of this type are especially those described in the
Morishima articles mentioned above, for which x = 25, denotes methyl and R
represents n-dodecyl; or those described in document WO-A-02/43689, for which x = 8
or 25, R denotes methyl and R represents n-hexadecyl (C 6) , n-octadecyl (C 8) , or ndodecyl
(C 2) , or mixtures thereof. The polymers for which X+ denotes sodium or
ammonium are more particularly preferred.
The preferred hydrophobic modified polymers that may be used in the composition in
accordance with the invention may be obtained according to conventional radical
polymerization processes in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for
example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2,2-azobis[2-
amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide,
benzoyl peroxide, -butyl hydroperoxide, etc., mineral peroxide compounds such as
potassium persulfate or ammonium persulfate, or H20 2 optionally in the presence of
reducing agents.
These hydrophobic modified polymers may be obtained especially by radical
polymerization in a te/f-butanol medium, in which they precipitate. By using
precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a size distribution of
the polymer particles that is particularly favorable for its uses.
The reaction may be performed at a temperature of between 0 and 150°C and
preferably between 10 and 100°C, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced
pressure. It may also be performed under inert atmosphere, and preferably under
nitrogen.
These preferred hydrophobic modified polymers are in particular those described in
document EP-1 ,069,142, and especially those obtained by polymerization of 2-
acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) or a sodium or ammonium salt
thereof with a (meth)acrylic acid ester and
- of a C10-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® C-080
from the company Clariant),
- of a C oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® UD-080
from the company Clariant),
- of a C oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® UD-070
from the company Clariant),
- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® LA-070
from the company Clariant),
- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 9 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® LA-090
from the company Clariant),
- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® LA- 0
from the company Clariant),
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® T-080
from the company Clariant),
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 15 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® T-150
from the company Clariant),
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® T- 0
from the company Clariant),
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® T-200
from the company Clariant),
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide (Genapol® T-250
from the company Clariant),
- of a C 8-C22 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide and/or of a C 6-C 8
iso alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide.
The molar percentage concentration of units of formula (III) and of units of formula (V)
in the polymers according to the invention varies as a function of the desired cosmetic
application and of the rheological properties sought for the formulation. It can range
between 0.1 and 99.9 mol%.
Preferably, for the most hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula
(III) or (V) varies from 50.1% to 99.9%, more particularly from 70% to 95% and more
particularly still from 80% to 90%.
Preferably, for the polymers that are not very hydrophobic, the molar proportion of units
of formula (III) or (V) varies from 0.1% to 50%, more particularly from 5% to 25% and
more particularly still from 10% to 20%.
The distribution of the monomers in the polymers of the invention may be, for example,
alternate, block (including multiblock) or random.
As hydrophobic modified polymers of this type, mention may be made especially of the
copolymer of AMPS and of ethoxylated C12-C14 alcohol methacrylate (uncrosslinked
copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) (CTFA name: ammonium
acryloyldimethyltaurate/Laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer) sold under the name
Aristoflex LNC by the company Clariant, and the copolymer of AMPS and of
ethoxylated (25 EO) stearyl methacrylate (copolymer crosslinked with
trimethylolpropane triacrylate, obtained from Genapol T-250 and AMPS) (CTFA name:
ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer) sold under
the name Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant.
Preferably, the polymer containing a sulphonic group is chosen from copolymers of
AMPS, preferably chosen from the copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or (meth)acrylate,
and of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, as described above, in particular
the optionally salified copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and
of hydroxylated C2-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the polymer containing a sulphonic group
is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and 2-
hydroxyethyl acrylate, especially in salt form, hydrophobic modified polymers obtained
by polymerization of AMPS or a sodium or ammonium salt thereof with a (meth)acrylic
acid ester and of a C 6-C 8 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide, and a
mixture thereof.
The polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group according
to the invention may represent, as active material, from 0.1% to 15% by weight,
preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative
to the total weight of the first composition.
SECOND COMPOSITION
The second composition of the cosmetic assembly comprises:
- an anionic foaming surfactant and an amphoteric foaming surfactant in an
amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to 80/20,
- the total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants being greater than or
equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition,
and
- a gelling polymer.
Anionic and amphoteric foaming surfactants
The anionic and amphoteric (or zwitterionic) surfactants present in the composition
according to the invention are foaming surfactants capable of cleansing the skin.
Foaming surfactants are detergents and differ from emulsifiers in the value of their HLB
(Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the
lipophilic part in the molecule. The term "HLB" is well known to a person skilled in the
art and is described, for example, in "The HLB system. A time-saving guide to
Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifiers, the HLB
generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for
the preparation of O W emulsions, whereas foaming surfactants generally have an HLB
of greater than 20.
The total amount (of active material) of anionic and amphoteric foaming surfactants
present in the second composition is greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to
the total weight of the second composition, for example ranging from 10% to 40% by
weight, preferably greater than or equal to 15% by weight, for example from 15% to
35% by weight.
The anionic and amphoteric foaming surfactants are present in the second composition
in an amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to 80/20, better
still from 1 to 75/25, in particular from 1 to 71/29.
Anionic surfactants
The anionic foaming surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of
proteins of plant origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates,
carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether
sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides,
anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside, and mixtures thereof.
Anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin are protein hydrolysates containing a
hydrophobic group, it being possible for said hydrophobic group to be naturally present
in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and/or of the protein hydrolysate
with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin or are derived from silk,
and the hydrophobic group may in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl
chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. As anionic derivatives of proteins of
plant origin, mention may more particularly be made of apple, wheat, soybean or oat
protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and
salts thereof. The alkyl chain may especially be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a
sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.
Thus, as protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, mention may be made,
for example, of salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a silk protein modified
by lauric acid, such as the product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; salts of
protein hydrolysates where the protein is a wheat protein modified by lauric acid, such
as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name:
potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol
LW 30 by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids); salts of protein
hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from
10 to 22 carbon atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates where the
protein is an oat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the
name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl
oat amino acids); or salts of apple protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain
having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt sold under the name
Proteol APL (30% aqueous glycol solution) by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl
apple amino acids). Mention may also be made of the mixture of lauroyl amino acids
(aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium Nmethylglycinate
sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 S by SEPPIC (CTFA name:
sodium cocoyl amino acids).
Examples of phosphates and alkyl phosphates that may be mentioned include
monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as the lauryl monophosphate sold
under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of
dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of monoester and diester (predominantly diester) sold
under the name Crafol AP-31® by the company Cognis, the mixture of octylphosphoric
acid monoester and diester sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by the company
Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) phosphoric acid monoester and
diester of 2-butyloctanol, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by the
company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(Ci 2-C 3)alkyl
phosphate sold under the references Arlatone MAP 230K-40® and Arlatone MAP
230T-60® by the company Uniqema, the potassium lauryl phosphate sold under the
name Dermalcare MAP XC-99/09® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and the potassium
cetyl phosphate sold under the name Arlatone MAP 160K by the company Uniqema.
As carboxylates, mention may be made of:
• amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate
(3 EO), sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;
• polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO)
sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C 2-C 4-C 6) , sold under the name
Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and
carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold under the name
Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium
tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol;
· salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C6 to C22 alkyl chain which are neutralized
with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium
hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
Amino acid derivatives that may especially be mentioned include alkali metal salts of
amino acids, such as:
• sarcosinates, for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name
Sarkosyl NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L30® by
the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name
Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by the company Nikkol, and sodium palmitoyl
sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by the company
Nikkol;
• alaninates, for instance sodium N-lauroyl N-methyl amidopropionate sold under
the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN30® by the company Nikkol, or sold
under the name Alanone ALE® by the company Kawaken, and triethanolamine
N-lauroyl N-methyl alanine sold under the name Alanone Alta® by the company
Kawaken;
· glutamates, for instance triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate sold under the
name Acylglutamate CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto, or triethanolamine
lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by the company
Ajinomoto;
• aspartates, for instance the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and
of triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by
the company Mitsubishi;
• glycine derivatives (glycinates), for instance the sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold
under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by the company
Ajinomoto;
• citrates, such as the oxyethylenated (9 mol) citric monoester of coco alcohols
sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt;
• galacturonates, such as the sodium dodecyl-D-galactoside uronate sold by the
company Soliance.
Examples of sulphosuccinates that may be mentioned include the oxyethylenated (3
EO) lauryl alcohol monosulphosuccinate (70/30 C 2 C 4) sold under the names Setacin
103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco, the disodium salt of
a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special
Paste® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium
oleamidosulphosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by the company
Cognis, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) laurylamide monosulphosuccinate sold under the
name Lebon A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium
salt of lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by
the company Witco, and the ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate sold
under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by the company Witco. Polydimethylsiloxane
sulphosuccinates may also be used, such as disodium PEG-12 dimethicone
sulphosuccinate sold under the name Mackanate-DC30 by the company Maclntyre.
Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of triethanolamine lauryl
sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman
under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name
Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution. Mention may also be
made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauryl sulphate), such as
the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is at 30% in
aqueous solution.
Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether
sulphate (CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names
Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether
sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the name
Standapol EA-2 by Cognis.
Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of a-olefinsulphonates, such as
the sodium a-olefinsulphonate (C14-C16), sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by
Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12®
by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium
olefinsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear
alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names
Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such as sodium
cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by the
company Jordan.
Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate,
sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by the company Clariant; N-acyl Nmethyltaurates,
for instance the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name
Hostapon LT-SF® by the company Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T®
by the company Nikkol, and the sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate sold under the name
Nikkol PMT® by the company Nikkol.
The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates,
sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides.
Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4)
tartaric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt
of cocoylpolyglucoside ( 1 ,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under the name Essai 512 MP
by Seppic, or the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) citric ester, sold under the
name Eucarol AGE-EC by Cesalpinia.
Amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants
The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants can be chosen, for example, from
betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and derivatives thereof, sultaines, alkyl
polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.
Mention may in particular be made, as betaines, of alkyl betaines, such as, for
example, coco betaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30® by
Cognis, lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by
Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the
name Lauryl Ether (10 EO) Betaine® by Shin Nihon Rica, or oxyethylenated (10 EO)
stearyl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 EO)
Betaine® by Shin Nihon Rica.
Mention may be made, among N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, for example,
of cocamidopropyl betaine, sold under the name Lebon 2000 HG® by Sanyo or sold
under the name Empigen BB® by Albright & Wilson, or lauramidopropyl betaine, sold
under the name Rewoteric AMB12P® by Witco.
Mention may be made, as sultaines, of hydroxysultaines, such as cocamidopropyl
hydroxysultaine, for instance the product sold under the name Rewoteric AM CAS by
Goldschmidt-Degussa or the product sold under the name Crosultaine C-50® by
Croda.
Mention may be made, as alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APACs), of sodium
cocoylpolyaminocarboxylate, sold under the names Ampholak 7 CX/C® and Ampholak
7 CX® by Akzo Nobel, sodium stearylpolyamidocarboxylate, sold under the name
Ampholak 7 TX/C by Akzo Nobel, or sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine, sold
under the name Ampholak X07/C® by Akzo Nobel.
Mention may be made, as alkylamphoacetates, for example, of N-disodium N-cocoyl-
N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium
cocoamphodiacetate), such as the product sold under the name Miranol C2M
Concentre NP® by Rhodia, N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-(carboxymethyl)-
ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate) or sodium
cocoamphohydroxypropylsulphonate, sold under the name Miranol CSE by Rhodia.
According to one advantageous embodiment, use is made of anionic surfactants
containing no methyl side chain.
Surfactants comprising a methyl side chain are for example methyl taurates such as
sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl isethionate.
As anionic surfactants, use may preferably be made of amino acid derivatives, in
particular glycine derivatives such as N-cocoyl glycinate, isethionates, in particular acyl
isethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, alkyl sulphates such as sodium lauryl
sulphate, alkyl ether sulphates such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate, and mixtures
thereof.
The amphoteric surfactant is preferably chosen from betaine, especially alkylbetaines
such as sodium cocobetaine, N-alkylamidobetaines such as sodium cocamidopropyl
betaine, alkylamphoacetates such as sodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures
thereof.
The second composition may comprise, besides the aforementioned anionic and
amphoteric surfactants, nonionic foaming surfactants.
Preferably, these nonionic surfactants are present in an amount less than or equal to
5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of alkyl polyglucosides (APGs), maltose
esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobic gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, fatty acid
glycerol esters, oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, fatty acid
polyethylene glycol esters, fatty acid sorbitan esters, glucamine derivatives such as 2-
ethylhexyloxycarbonyl n-methylglucamine, and mixtures thereof.
Gelling polymer
The gelling polymer may be present in the second composition according to the
invention in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably
from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the
total weight of the second composition.
These gelling polymers are advantageously amphiphilic polymers preferably chosen
from polymers derived from acrylic acids, in particular polymers comprising:
from 80 mol% to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) units of formula (5)
below:
CI¾ CH
C= (5)
o x+
in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an
ammonium ion; and
from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 mol% to 15 mol% of
units of formula (6) below:
R
1
¾ c
A <
in which denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C6 alkyl radical
(preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R4
denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to
30 and preferably from 10 to 25.
These polymers are preferably crosslinked.
As acrylic acid-derived amphiphilic polymers that are preferred according to the present
invention, mention may be made of:
the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and
steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22® by the company Rohm &
Haas,
- the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and
laureth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 25® by the company Rohm &
Haas,
the uncrosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and
beheneth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 28® by the company Rohm &
Haas,
the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and vinyl
neodecanoate, sold under the name Aculyn 38® by the company Rohm & Haas,
the crosslinked copolymer obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and
steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 88® by the company Rohm &
Haas,
crosslinked copolymers of C 0-C30 alkyl acrylate and of (meth)acrylic
acid, for instance Pemulen TR1 ® and TR2® sold by the company Noveon,
the crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and of vinyl isodecanoate,
sold under the name Stabylen 30® by the company 3V,
- crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth)acrylic acid and from Cio-
C30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the names Carbopol ETD 2020® and Carbopol 1382® by
the company Noveon.
Mention may also be made of the crosslinked copolymers obtained from (meth)acrylic
acid and from C 0-C30 alkyl acrylate, sold under the name Carbopol Carbopol Aqua SF-
1 by the company Noveon, or else the uncrosslinked copolymer with the INCI name
acrylate/beheneth-25 methacrylate, sold under the name Novethix L- 0 by the
company Lubrizol.
Preferably, the second composition contains no gelling polymer chosen from polyetherderived
polymers, such polymers are, for example, water-soluble polyurethanes and
especially polyethylene glycol compounds (for example having from 45 to 60 ethylene
oxide units) bearing a C
8
- C
20
alkyl chain at the ends via a urethane bond; fatty acid
polyethylene glycol esters comprising at least 100 ethylene glycol units such as PEG
50 distearate, or copolymers containing ethylene oxide and propylene oxide blocks
such as those bearing the INCI name poloxamer.
Preferably, the second composition contains no gelling polymer chosen from polymers
comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group as described above
that are present in the first composition.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the second composition comprises a
structuring agent chosen from the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty
acids comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms,
triesters such as trideceth sulphate or polyglycerol triesters, for instance polyglyceryl-
10 trilaurate (SUNSOFT Q-123Y from Taiyo Kagaku) or polyglyceryl-10 tricaprylate
(SUNSOFT Q-83H), fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, better still
from 10 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid,
stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid or mixtures thereof.
The structuring agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by
weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by
weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one particular embodiment, when the active agent present in the first
composition is a peroxide, this advantageously comprises an activator promoting the
decomposition of H20 2. The expression "activator promoting the decomposition of
H20 2" encompasses any molecule or composition that may lead to the decomposition
of H20 2 to give water and oxygen.
This expression therefore encompasses a large number of compounds known to those
skilled in the art. As activators, mention may in particular be made of basic compounds,
especially sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, ammonia or triethanolamine,
sodium (or ammonium) bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, manganese gluconate, sodium
borate, calcium peroxide, calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids and salts thereof, such
as lysine, arginine and salts thereof; guanidine; potassium carbonate, urea,
aminomethylpropanol, aminopropanol, monoethanolamine (MEA),
aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), sodium or magnesium silicate derivatives,
especially laponite (in particular the Laponite XLG sold by the company Rockwood),
smectite, sodium metasilicate, hectorite, basic zeolites, especially the zeolite sold by
the company Zeochem under the reference X-MOL, or a mixture thereof.
Advantageously, the activators are selected from sodium bicarbonate, laponite,
zeolites, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide (preferably at 10% in water), sodium
metasilicate and a mixture thereof.
The activator can preferably be selected from the compounds or compositions capable
of generating a pH of greater than or equal to 6 , preferably greater than or equal to 7 ,
when they are mixed with the first composition comprising H20 2.
The preferred activators are selected from laponite XLG from Rockwood, zeolite XMOL
sold by Zeochem, calcium peroxide, sodium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate and a
mixture thereof.
The amount of activators in the second composition depends on the components of the
first and second compositions of the assembly according to the invention, on their
respective amounts and on their galenic forms. In particular, a person skilled in the art
will take care to choose the amount of activators so that, when the compositions of the
cosmetic assembly according to the invention are mixed, the mixture resulting
therefrom can express a pH of greater than or equal to 6 , preferably greater than 7 .
Aqueous phase
The first and second compositions of the assembly according to the invention are
aqueous compositions comprising an aqueous phase composed of water and/or of
water-soluble solvents.
The aqueous phase may represent from 30% to 90% by weight, preferably from 35% to
85% by weight and better still from 45% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of
each first and second composition the first composition.
The water used may be demineralized pure water, but also mineral water and/or spring
water and/or seawater, i.e. the water of the composition may be partially or totally
constituted of water chosen from mineral waters, spring waters, seawaters and
mixtures thereof. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not
always the case with a spring water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia,
dissolved minerals and/or trace elements. These waters are known to be employed for
specific treatment purposes according to the particular trace elements and minerals
that they contain, such as the moisturization and desensitization of the skin. The terms
"mineral water" and "spring water" will denote not only natural mineral or spring waters
but also natural mineral or spring waters enriched in additional mineral constituents
and/or trace elements, and also aqueous mineral solutions and/or solutions containing
trace elements prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled water).
A natural spring water or mineral water used according to the invention may, for
example, be chosen from Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay
water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Nerisles-
Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-lesBains
water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint
Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.
It is also possible to use seawaters such as Dead Sea water or seabed water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water
(at 25°C) such as, for example, primary alcohols (CrC 3 monohydric alcohol), such as
ethanol and isopropanol, polyols, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine,
hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8 or dipropylene glycol, and
mixtures thereof. The amount of polyol(s) in the composition generally ranges from
0.05% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from
0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
It is also possible to use, in the compositions of the assembly according to the
invention, exfoliating particles, fillers or mixtures thereof.
Exfoliant particles that may be used include exfoliant or scrubbing particles of mineral,
plant or organic origin. Thus, it is possible to use, for example, polyethylene beads or
powder, such as those sold under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN
710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder sold under the name Gotalene
120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont; Nylon particles, such as those sold by the
company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos; fibres such as
polyamide fibres, such as those sold by the company Utexbel under the name Pulpe
Polyamide 12185 Taille 0.3 mm; polyvinyl chloride powder; pumice (INCI name) such
as pumice 3/B from Eyraud; ground shells of fruit kernels, such as ground apricot
kernels or walnut shells; sawdust; glass beads; alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name:
alumina), for instance the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the
company Marketech International; sugar crystals; beads that melt when applied to the
skin, for instance the spheres based on mannitol and cellulose sold under the name
Unispheres by the company Induchem, agar-based capsules sold under the name
Primasponge by the company Cognis, and spheres based on jojoba esters sold under
the name Floraspheres by the company Floratech; and mixtures thereof.
The compositions of the assembly according to the invention can also comprise other
fillers, such as, for example, talc or modified or unmodified starch, in particular starches
esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminium Starch
Octenylsuccinate", such as the product sold by the company National Starch under the
name Dry-Flo.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the compositions of the assembly
according to the invention comprise at least one filler.
The following compounds may be given as examples of fillers:
- porous silica microparticles, such as, for example, the Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB
700 from Myochi, with a mean size of 5 mhi , and the Sunspheres ® series H from Asahi
Glass, such as H33 and H51, with a size respectively of 3.5 and 5 mhi ;
- hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK
510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, especially described in EP-A-1 579 849;
- silicone resin powders, for instance the Tospearl ® 145 A silicone resin from GE
Silicone, with a mean size of 4.5 mhi ;
- powders formed of acrylic copolymers, in particular of polymethyl (meth)acrylate, such
as, for example, the Jurimer MBI® PMMA particles from Nihon Junyoki, with a mean
size of 8 mhi , the hollow PMMA spheres sold under the name Covabead ® LH 85 by
Wackherr and the expanded vinylidene/acrylonitrile/methylene methacrylate
microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;
- wax powders, such as the Paraffin Wax Microloase® 114S particles from
Micropowders, with a mean size of 7 mhi ;
- polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene/acrylic acid
copolymer, such as, for example, Flobeads® EA 209 E from Sumimoto, with a mean
size of 10 mhi ;
- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in
particular with silsesquioxane resin, sold under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101 ®, KSP
102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu;
- composite talc/dioxide or titanium/alumina/silica powders, such as, for example,
Coverleaf AR 80® from the company Catalyst & Chemical;
- talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octenyl succinate
anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium
carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, barium sulphate, hydroxyapatite, calcium
silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules;
- hydrophilic or hydrophobic, synthetic or natural, mineral or organic fibres such as silk
fibres, cotton fibres, wool fibres, flax fibres, cellulose fibres extracted especially from
wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®) fibres, modified cellulose fibres, poly-pphenyleneterephthamide
fibres, acrylic fibres, polyolefin fibres, glass fibres, silica
fibres, aramid fibres, carbon fibres, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®) fibres, insoluble
collagen fibres, polyester fibres, polyvinyl chloride fibres, polyvinylidene chloride fibres,
polyvinyl alcohol fibres, polyacrylonitrile fibres, chitosan fibres, polyurethane fibres,
polyethylene phthalate fibres, fibres formed from a mixture of polymers, resorbable
synthetic fibres, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
- spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones, for instance Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C®
from Dow Corning;
- abrasive fillers, which, via a mechanical effect, smooth out the skin microrelief, such
as abrasive silica, for instance Abrasif SP® from Semanez or nut or shell powders (for
example of apricot or walnut, from Cosmetochem).
The filler may be a soft-focus filler. The term "soft-focus" filler means a filler which in
addition gives the complexion transparency and a hazy effect. Preferably, the softfocus
fillers have a mean particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These
particles may be in any form and in particular may be spherical or non-spherical. These
fillers are more preferably non-spherical.
The soft-focus fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, especially
alumina powder, powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc, silica/Ti0 2 or
silica/zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide
powders, styrene/acrylic copolymer powders and silicone elastomers, and mixtures
thereof.
Mention may be made in particular of talc with a number-average size of less than or
equal to 3 microns, for example talc with a number-average size of 1.8 microns and
especially the product sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon
Talc, Nylon® 12 powder, especially the product sold under the name Orgasol 2002
Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, silica particles 1% to 2% surface-treated
with a mineral wax ( INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as the products
sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as the products
sold under the name Sunsphere, for example of reference H-53® by the company
Asahi Glass, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-
150® by the company Miyoshi, this list not being limiting.
These exfoliating particles and fillers may be present in an amount ranging, for
example, from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, better still
from 1% to 10% by weight and even better still from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the
total weight of each composition.
According to one embodiment, the second composition comprises at least one filler in a
content of greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to its total weight, preferably
greater than or equal to 10% by weight.
The compositions of the assembly according to the invention may also comprise all the
constituents normally employed in the application envisaged. In particular,
advantageously, use may be made, in the compositions, of at least one additional
ingredient and/or active agent for skin care (different from the acid active agent and the
peroxide), in particular for oily skin.
It will be possible in particular to combine the additional active agents and ingredients
described in patent application EP 1 847 247, incorporated here by reference, including
depigmenting agents, preservatives, antimicrobial agents, antiperspirant agents,
seboregulators, metal-chelating agents, UV screening agents, hydrolyzed proteins,
antioxidants, vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, soothing or anti-irritant agents,
moisturizing agents, plant extracts, cosmetic adjuvants, and mixtures thereof.
Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional
additional compound(s), and/or the amount thereof, such that the advantageous
properties of the assembly according to the invention are not, or are not substantially,
adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
These active agents will generally be present in the compositions of the assembly
according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight and
preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition.
A person skilled in the art will take care to select, from among these active agents,
those which may have an activity under the conditions of use of the compositions
according to the invention. A person skilled in the art will also take care to ensure that
the active principles used in their amounts do not interfere with the advantageous
properties of the compositions forming the cosmetic assembly according to the
invention, especially in terms of pH.
Preferably, the additional active agents will be incorporated into the second
composition of the cosmetic assembly, or into an additional composition of the
cosmetic assembly.
The compositions of the assembly according to the invention can be provided in any
galenic form normally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields which is compatible
with the characteristics of said compositions.
In particular, they are present in the form of a foaming gel.
According to the invention, the two compositions of the cosmetic assembly may be
presented in various forms of cosmetic products, with various containers,
compartments, closing members, applicators, packagings, etc.
The invention also relates to a packaging assembly comprising:
i . a first compartment containing a first aqueous composition containing
at least one active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, b-hydroxy acids and
mixtures thereof and at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing
a sulphonic group;
ii. a second compartment containing a second aqueous composition
containing an anionic foaming surfactant and an amphoteric foaming surfactant in an
amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to 80/20, the total
content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants being greater than or equal to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, and a gelling polymer,
said second compartment being isolated in a leaktight manner from the first, and
iii. means for making it possible to bring the two compositions into
contact, in particular at the time of use.
The first and the second composition of the packaging assembly are as defined above.
Such an assembly advantageously makes it possible to bring its two compositions,
packaged separately in respectively the first compartment and the second
compartment forming said assembly, into contact at the time of use.
This assembly can also be provided with means which make it possible to bring the
first compartment and the second compartment, and thus their respective contents, into
contact.
The assembly is also advantageously provided with a means suitable for the
dispensing of the mixture of the two compositions.
More specifically, the first and second compositions, for the implementation of the
invention, are packaged separately inside two compartments, formed either by two
separate containers, or inside a single device.
The container(s) can have any appropriate form. It (they) can in particular be in the
form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case, a box, a sachet or a casing.
The closing member of the container(s) can be in the form of a removable stopper, of a
lid, of a seal, of a tear-off strip or of a bottle cap, in particular of the type comprising a
body attached to the container and a cover cap hinged to the body. It may also be in
the form of a member for selectively closing the container, especially a pump, a valve
or a flap.
The container may be combined with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form
of a fine brush, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator can
be in the form of a foam or elastomer pad, of a felt-tipped pen or of a spatula. The
applicator may be free (powder puff or sponge) or securely fastened to a shaft borne by
the closing member, as described, for example, in patent US 5 492 426. The applicator
may be securely fastened to the container, as described, for example, in patent FR 2
761 959.
The compositions may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of
example, the compositions may be arranged on an impregnated support, especially in
the form of a wipe or a pad, and arranged (single unit or several) in a box or in a
sachet. Such a support incorporating the product is described, for example, in patent
application WO 01/03538.
The closing member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the
coupling between the closing member and the container is done other than by
screwing, especially via a bayonet mechanism, by click-fastening, clamping, welding,
adhesive bonding or by magnetic attraction. The term "click-fastening" in particular
means any system involving the passing of a rim or bead of material by elastic
deformation of a portion, especially of the closing member, followed by return to the
elastically unstressed position of said portion after the rim or bead has been passed.
The container may be at least partially made of thermoplastic material. Examples of
thermoplastic materials that may be mentioned include polypropylene or polyethylene.
Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, especially glass or
metal (or alloy).
The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, especially in the form of a
double tube or a double tube bottle.
The container may comprise means intended to bring about or facilitate the dispensing
of the composition. By way of example, the container may have deformable walls so as
to cause the composition to exit in response to excess pressurization inside the
container, which excess pressurization is brought about by the elastic (or nonelastic)
crushing of the walls of the container
The container may be formed from a case with a base delimiting at least one housing
containing the composition, and a lid, especially hinged to the base, capable of at least
partially covering said base. Such a case is described, for example, in patent
application WO 03/018423 or in patent FR 2 791 042.
The container may be equipped with a wiping element positioned in the vicinity of the
opening of the container. Such a wiping element makes it possible to wipe the
applicator and, optionally, the shaft to which it may be securely fastened. Such a wiping
element is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the container is in the form of
a bottle or a flexible sachet.
The term "single device" is understood to mean a device via which the two
compartments or containers are integrally attached to one another. Such a device can
be obtained by a process of molding the two compartments, in particular made of a
thermoplastic material, as a single component. It may also result from any form of
assembling, in particular by adhesive bonding, welding or other click-fastening.
According to a first embodiment, the two containers are separate, independent of one
another. Such containers may be in various forms. They may especially be tubes,
bottles or cans.
One and/or the other of the containers may be surmounted by a manually actuated
pump surmounted by a pushbutton for actuating the pump and dispensing the
composition via at least one dispensing orifice.
Alternatively, one and/or the other of the containers is pressurized, especially by
means of a propellant, in particular a propellant gas. In this case, the container(s) is
(are) equipped with a valve surmounted by a pushbutton equipped with a nozzle or any
other diffusion means for dispensing the product.
The propellant may be in a mixture with at least one of the compositions to be
dispensed or may be separated, in particular via a piston capable of sliding inside the
container, or via the flexible walls of a pocket inside which the composition is placed.
The containers may be made of various materials: plastic, glass or metal.
According to one preferred embodiment, the two compositions are contained inside a
single device.
According to one particular embodiment, the first and second compositions of the
invention are packaged inside two compartments (51, 52) delimited by a single device
(1) of pump bottle type as represented in Figure 1 of patent US 6 672 483.
In particular, each of the compartments is equipped with a pump (41, 42), preferably
manually actuated, connected to at least one actuating and dispensing means (3)
which makes it possible to deliver, separately or as a mixture, said first and second
compositions.
According to one preferred embodiment, the actuating and dispensing means (3) is
common to the two pumps.
According to one alternative, each of the compartments is pressurized, in particular
using a propellant, and is equipped with a valve connected to at least one actuating
and dispensing means which makes it possible to deliver, separately or as a mixture,
said compositions.
In particular, the actuating and dispensing means is common to the two valves.
The packaging device presented in Figure 1 of patent US 6 672 483 is composed of
two compartments 51, 52 positioned side by side and formed inside a component 5
obtained by moulding a thermoplastic material. Each of the containers 5 1, 52
comprises a neck 53 delimiting an opening. A pump 4 1, 42, which may or may not
have an air uptake, is mounted inside the neck of each of the containers.
During the mounting, component 5 delimiting the two compartments 5 1, 52 is
positioned inside a housing element 0.
A pump shaft 21a, 22a of each of the pumps 41, 42 is inserted forcibly inside a
corresponding duct provided in a single pushbutton 3 configured so as to allow the
simultaneous actuating of the two pumps in response to a pressure exerted axially on a
surface 35 of pushbutton 3 .
The ducts of the pushbutton connected to each of the pumps emerge at two orifices
31a, 32a positioned in the vicinity of one another on an external surface of the
pushbutton 3 . The two compositions exit separately in response to an actuation of the
pumps 4 1, 42, either onto the finger of the user or onto an applicator pad or cotton wool
ball. The mixing of the two compositions then takes place during application to the
surface to be treated.
Use may be made, for example, of devices as described in the documents US 5 833
121 , US 4 773 562 and US 6 672 483.
According to another particular embodiment, the two compartments are formed inside
the same flexible sachet, and are separated by a weak weld or tearing region which
can be broken during use, in particular in response to a pressure exerted at a precise
point of the sachet, at one of the two compartments. Examples of two-compartment
flexible sachets which can be used in the present invention are described in particular
in patent applications JP2000272674, WO99/51509, EP 2 437 30 or FR 2 876 356.
The compartments can be produced using at least one sheet, for example a sheet of a
flexible thermoplastic material, and can be bonded to one another via a common edge
of weak weld type. According to one particular embodiment, the common edge of
weak weld type is over the entire width of the sachet or over a lesser width forming a
leaktight channel between the two sachets.
Preferably, the sachet is produced with films impermeable to oxygen from the air, such
as aluminium.
Use may also be made of films that are impermeable to water, in the form of a
polyethylene terephthalate/silicone/polyethylene (PET/SiOx/PE) triple layer.
Alternatively also, the two compartments are formed from two concentric compartments
formed inside a tube, and are surmounted by a pump without air uptake equipped with
a pushbutton having one or two dispensing orifices. Provided inside the tube is a piston
that rises in the direction of the pump as and when the compositions are withdrawn
from inside the containers. Such dispensing modes are especially used for dispensing
toothpastes.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the first and second compositions are
packaged in a double tube having two concentric compartments.
The contents of the patents or patent applications mentioned previously are
incorporated by reference into the present patent application.
Yet other devices can be used for the implementation of the present invention, the
essential point being that they can make possible the separate packaging of the two
compositions of the cosmetic assembly of the present invention and the dispensing
thereof separately or as a mixture.
The cosmetic assembly according to the invention has in particular a lightening effect
and a positive effect on the radiance of the complexion, it makes it possible to tone
down age spots and/or it has a positive effect on the appearance of oily skin, in
particular by promoting the mattness of the skin.
The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also makes it possible to lighten the
skin, to promote the radiance of the complexion, to render the complexion uniform, to
reduce spots, in particular age spots, or to improve the hold of the makeup.
The cosmetic assembly according to the invention also has the advantage of enabling
the lightening of the integuments, in particular head hair or body hair or downy hair, on
the forearms, on the face, in particular at the moustache, etc.
The assembly according to the invention can be applied in any way which can be
envisaged by a person skilled in the art in a skin care method.
In particular, it may be envisaged to mix the compositions of said assembly before
application to the skin. The viscosities of the compositions enable an easy application
of the assembly according to the invention, after mixing the compositions constituting
them, the mixture not running, or barely running, on the skin after application.
Alternatively, it is possible to envisage the prior application of one of the compositions
to the skin, and then the application of the other composition to the thus prepared skin.
According to one preferred embodiment, said method according to the invention also
comprises a rinsing step after application of the cosmetic assembly to the skin or its
integuments.
According to one preferred embodiment, said cosmetic method also comprises a
rinsing step after application of the compositions of the cosmetic assembly to the skin,
as described previously.
According to one particular embodiment, the skin may be wetted, prior to the
application of the cosmetic assembly according to the invention.
According to one preferred embodiment, after application to the skin, the mixture of the
compositions of the cosmetic assembly is rinsed off, after a leave-on time ranging from
1 to 20 minutes, preferably from 1 to 10 minutes.
The examples that follow illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. The
compounds are, depending on the case, cited as the chemical names or as the CTFA
names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook).
Example 1: cosmetic product
a) First compositions A 1 and A2: peroxide-based aqueous gels
(1) Sepinov EMT 10 Seppic
(2) Aristoflex HMS Clariant
Procedure: disperse the Sepinov EMT 10 or Aristoflex HMS in water and then
introduce the tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium pyrophosphate, sodium salicylate
and then the hydrogen peroxide at 50% in water and finally the phosphoric acid in
order to adjust the pH.
b) Second compositions B 1 to B4: foaming compositions
example B1 example B2 example B3 Example B4
(invention) (comparative) (invention) (invention)
Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7
Sodium N-cocoyl
glycinate (AMILITE GCS- 16.69 33.33 25 16.69
12® from Ajinomoto).
Coco betaine in aqueous 33.33 16.69 25 16.69
solution at 30% as AM
(DEHYTON AB-30® from
Cognis)
Cocamidopropyl betaine
(TEGO BETAIN F 50 17.43
Evonik Goldschmidt)
Laurie acid 3.31 3.31 3.31 3.31
(Meth)acrylic acid/vinyl
neodecanoate copolymer,
at 29% as AM (Aculyn 6.68 6.68 6.68 6.68
38® from Rohm and
Haas)
Sodium hydroxide (10%
4.38 3.22 4.39
in water)
KOH (50% in water) - - - 2.1
glycerol - - - 5
PEG14000 0.25
POLYQUATERNIUM-39
(MERQUAT3330PR Nalco ) - - - 1
9.25% in water
Polyquaternium-6
(MERQUAT 100 Nalco) - - - 0.75
40% in water
Water 34.91 36.07 34.92 28.65
Amphoteric
surfactants/anionic 2 0.5 1 2.3
surfactants ratio
H 6.7 6.7 6.9 7.0
Procedure : Disperse the Aculyn 38 in water using a Rayneri mixer at room
temperature then neutralize using sodium hydroxide in order to obtain a homogeneous
gel, add the preheated surfactant base (lauric acid + Amilite + coco betaine) sodium
chloride.
For composition B4, the PEG 14000 is first dispersed in the glycerol, and then water
then the polyquaternium are added.
Add the preheated surfactant base (lauric acid + amilite + coco betaine) then the
sodium hydroxide in order to adjust the pH.
The viscosity of the first and second compositions and of each composition resulting
from the mixing thereof were then measured.
The viscosity is measured using a Rheomat 180 (from the company Lamy), equipped
with an MS-R4 spindle rotating at a shear rate of 200 s .
The composition from Example B2, which has an amphoteric surfactants/anionic
surfactants ratio outside of the invention, does not make it possible to obtain a
homogeneous final mixture of the first + second compositions that is sufficiently
viscous for a satisfactory application to keratin materials.
Example 2 : Foaming second compositions B5 and B6
example B5 example B6
(invention) (comparative)
Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7
Sodium laureth sulphate at 70% in water
8.81 14.1
(TEXAPON AOS 225 UP /COGNIS)
Lauryl betaine in solution (EMPIGEN BB / LS /
20.56 8.22
HUNTSMAN AB-30®)
butylene glycol 26.88 26.88
(Meth)acrylic acid/vinyl neodecanoate
copolymer, at 29% as AM (Aculyn 38® from 6 6
Rohm and Haas)
HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE 4 4
Polyquaternium-6 (MERQUAT 100 Nalco)
0.75 0.75
40% in water
Zeolite (X-MOL/ ZEOCHEM) 10 10
Sodium hydroxide (10% in water) 3 3
Water 19.3 26.35
Amphoteric surfactants/anionic surfactants
1 0.25
ratio
H 7.5 7.3
Procedure :
Disperse the Aculyn 38 in water using a Rayneri mixer at room temperature then
neutralize using sodium hydroxide (2.81 g of sodium hydroxide at 10% in water in
order to neutralize 16 g of Aculyn 38) in order to obtain a homogeneous gel.
Add the preheated surfactant base (lauric acid + amilite + coco betaine) then the
sodium hydroxide in order to adjust the pH.
Finally, add the hydroxypropyl starch, PQ6 and zeolite.
The viscosity of compositions B5 and B6 and of each composition resulting from the
mixing thereof with the first composition A 1 from Example 1 were then measured.
example example
Viscosity (200 s , at 20°C in Pa.s) A1+ B5 A1+ B6
(invention) (comparative)
First composition A 5 5
Second composition B 7.3 3
Mixture A + B 5.2 1.15
pH mixture A + B 7.5 7.3
Conclusion Satisfactory Not viscous
The composition from Example B6, which has an amphoteric surfactants/anionic
surfactants ratio outside of the invention, does not make it possible to obtain a
homogeneous final mixture of the first + second compositions that is sufficiently
viscous for an easy application.
Each first composition and second composition from the above examples may be
packaged in the same amount in two separate compartments of a double-compartment
packaging of tube type such as, for example, the Dual tube 35-25 from Alcan
Packaging, or of double pump bottle type. The compositions are mixed on leaving the
tube or bottle and then the corresponding mixture is applied to the skin.
CLAIMS
1. Cosmetic assembly comprising:
a) a first aqueous composition comprising:
- at least one active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, b-
hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof, and
at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a
sulphonic group,
and
b) a second aqueous composition comprising:
- an anionic foaming surfactant and an amphoteric foaming surfactant in an
amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to 80/20,
- the total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants being greater than or
equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition,
and
- a gelling polymer.
2 . Assembly according to Claim 1, characterized in that the active agent is hydrogen
peroxide.
3 . Assembly according to either of the preceding claims, characterized in that the active
agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging
from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still ranging from 1% to 8% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the first composition.
4 . Assembly according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
monomer containing a sulphonic group is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic
acid.
5 . Assembly according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group is chosen from
copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid or of (meth)acrylate and of 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulphonic acid, in particular the optionally salified copolymers of 2-
acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of hydroxylated C2-C4 alkyl
(meth)acrylate.
6 . Assembly according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group is a copolymer
of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate.
7 . Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group is chosen from
the hydrophobic modified polymers obtained by polymerization of 2-acrylamido-2-
methylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) or a sodium or ammonium salt thereof with a
(meth)acrylic acid ester and
- of a C10-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C oxo alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 7 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 9 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C12-C14 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 8 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 15 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 11 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C16-C18 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide,
- of a C 8-C22 alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide and/or of a C 6-C 8
iso alcohol oxyethylenated with 25 mol of ethylene oxide,
and mixtures thereof.
8 . Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a sulphonic group is present in
an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5%
to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of
the first composition.
9 . Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
total amount (of active material) of anionic and amphoteric foaming surfactants is
greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second
composition, for example ranging from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably greater than
or equal to 15% by weight, for example from 15% to 35% by weight.
10. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
anionic and amphoteric foaming surfactants are present in an amphoteric
surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 1 to 75/25, in particular from 1 to 71/29.
11. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
anionic foaming surfactants are chosen from amino acid derivatives, in particular
glycine derivatives such as N-cocoyl glycinate, isethionates, in particular acyl
isethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, alkyl sulphates such as sodium lauryl
sulphate, alkyl ether sulphates such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate and mixtures
thereof.
12. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
anionic foaming surfactants are chosen from amino acid derivatives, in particular
glycine derivatives such as N-cocoyl glycinate.
13. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
amphoteric surfactants are chosen from betaines, especially alkylbetaines such as
sodium cocobetaine, N-alkylamidobetaines such as sodium cocamidopropyl betaine,
alkylamphoacetates such as sodium cocoamphodiacetate, and mixtures thereof.
14. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
gelling polymer is present in an active material content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by
weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 5% by weight
relative to the total weight of the second composition.
15. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
gelling polymer is chosen from polymers derived from acrylic acids, preferably
crosslinked polymers, in particular polymers comprising:
from 80 mol% to 99 mol% of acrylic acid (AA) units of formula (5)
below:
CI¾ CH
C= (5)
o x +
in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth metal cation or an
ammonium ion; and
from 1 mol% to 20 mol% and preferably from 1 mol% to 15 mol% of
units of formula (6) below:
R
1
¾ c
A <
in which denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C C6 alkyl radical
(preferably methyl), A denotes an ester or amide group or an oxygen atom and R4
denotes a linear or branched alkyl comprising m carbon atoms with m ranging from 6 to
30 and preferably from 10 to 25.
16. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the
second composition comprises a structuring agent chosen from the saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms,
triesters, fatty alcohols comprising from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.
17. Method for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials consisting in applying to the
keratin materials at least one layer of a mixture:
- of a first aqueous composition comprising:
- at least one active agent chosen from peroxides, a-hydroxy acids, b-
hydroxy acids, and
at least one polymer comprising at least one monomer containing a
sulphonic group,
and
- of a second aqueous composition comprising:
- an anionic foaming surfactant and an amphoteric foaming surfactant in
an amphoteric surfactant/anionic surfactant ratio ranging from 0.9 to
80/20,
- the total content of anionic and amphoteric surfactants being greater
than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the second
composition, and
- a gelling polymer.
18. Cosmetic treatment method according to Claim 17, in which the first and second
compositions are mixed in a ratio, by weight, of between 100/50 and 80/100, preferably
between 100/80 and 80/100.