The present invention concerns new vanishing cream compositions and uses
5 thereof.
[Background of the Invention]
Vanishing cream compositions are well known cosmetics which provide good
sensory and tactile benefits to the skin. Such creams provide a dry, draggy, clean and
10 matte end-feel, which helps overcoming the greasy and shiny appearance of the skin.
Vanishing creams spread easily on the skin and are quickly absorbed therein ("quickly
vanished"). Such creams counteract skin dryness to alleviate flaking, cracking and
roughness. '
Traditional vanishing cream formulations comprise high amounts of fatty acid,
15 typically stearic acid. They also comprise salts of fatty acids called "fatty acid soap" which
are typically alkali metal salts of the fatty acid, resulting from the in situ partial
neutralization of fatty acid with a neutralizing agent (caustic potash or any other base).
This partially neutralized composition is having certain pH limitation (generally near 7 or
above), which is required for a right balance between fatty acid and salts of fatty acid.
20 Developments in the cosmetic field aim to incorporate skin benefit actives in
vanishing cream compositions, in order to expand its uses. However, the pH limitation of
traditional vanishing cream compositions restricts the incorporation of skin benefiting
ingredientswhich are chemically stables at low pH.
A number of attempts were made to prepare stable and efficient low pH vanishing
25 cream compositions which can incorporate such type of ingredients. For example,
vanishing cream cornpositions with relatively low amounts of faiiy acid were prepared.
However, it was noted that the resulting compositions lack the consumer desired sensory
benefits of traditional vanishing cream compositions. Indeed, viscosity and rub-in effect
were shown to be affected. Besides, US 6,153,177 discloses vanishing cream
30 compositions having pH above 5, comprising fatty acid and partially neutralized fatty acid,
in presence of salts of a-hydroxy carboxylic acids, for achieving skin lightning benefits
through the topical application of the compositions. However, it is well known that the
acidic forms of said actives are more potent to penetrate the skin compared to their salts
(Percutaneoiis Penetration Enhancers, CRC press, pp. 407(1995)). WO 01170187
3 5 discloses vanishing creams deprived of neutralized fatty acid, comprising a C8-C22 fatty
acid substituted saccharide. These compositions are said to be capable of deliver actives
2
stable at low pH, but failed to realize the complete sensory benefits of tradition vanishing
creams, which is believed to be due to improper emulsifier system.
In addition, US 4,536,519 discloses emulsified cosmetic compositions (such as
vanishing creams) comprising neutralized product of phosphoric acid ester, a nonionic
5 surfactant with HLB up to 6, an oily substrate and water. Such compositions however lack
the sensory characteristics of traditional vanishing creams.
Therefore, there is a need for new stable composition, in particular low pH vanishing
cream compositions, which allow the incorporation of a large variety of skin benefiting
10 ingredients stable at low pH, while maintaining in particular the unique sensorial
characteristics of traditional fatty acid: soap based vanishing cream compositions.
[Summary of the lnvention]
It is an object of the present invention to provide compositions, in particular low pH
15 vanishing cream compositions, which are chemically and physically stable, while providing
the sensorial attributes such as of traditional vanishing cream compositions, and which
may comprise ingredients stable at low pH.
It is another object of the present invention to provide compositions, in particular
low pH vanishing cream compositions, wherein skin benefiting ingredients remain
20 chemically stable in said compositions.
It is another object of the present invention to provide compositions, in particular
low pH vanishing cream compositions for incorporation of skin benefiting ingredients,
without significantly affecting the end-feel of the compositions on the skin.
25
[Detailed description of the Invention]
The present invention concerns a composition comprising at least one aqueous
phase and at least one oily phase, wherein said composition comprises:
30 - i) at least 4% by weight of solid particles, preferably selected from the
group consisting of: solid fatty acid(s), inorganic particles, and mixtures
thereof;
ii) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinked copolymer
comprising at least one unit of an unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid,
and at least one unit of a (Clo-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic
acid:
3
- iii) from 0.01% to 15% by weight of alkyl phosphate ester salts,
wherein the percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the
composition.
As used herein, the "aqueous phase" is a phase containing at least water.
The applicants surprisingly found that compositions of the invention
advantageously retain the typical consumer benefits of traditional acidsoap based
vanishing cream formulations, even at low pH, such as dry and draggy, non-greasy skin
10 feel with a characteristic non-shiny, matte finish without greasiness, ease of absorption,
cool sensation and a matte finish.
The applicants also found that such compositions advantageously allows the
incorporation of skin benefiting ingredients, in particular skin benefiting ingredients stable
at low pH, without affecting the chemicallphysical stability and the desired properties of
15 said compositions.
In particular, the applications found that compositions according to the invention may
incorporate skin benefiting ingredient@), without affecting the end-feel of the compositions
on the skin.
20 As used herein, the term "low pH" means an acidic pH as measured by standard
pH measurement method, said pH being below 7, preferably below 6.6.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the pH of the composition is from 4
to 6.5, preferably from 4.5 to 6.2. In particular, the pH of the composition is from 5.0. to
6.2, preferably from 5.4 to 6.2.
25 As used herein, the term "stable at low pH" means that ingredients and formulation
comprising !hem, remain free from any chemical or physical changes such as
discoloration, separation ..., at low pH. The pH may be measured according to usual
method known by the skilled person.
30 Solid particles
In one embodiment, the composition comprises from 4% to 50%, preferably from 8%
to 30%, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of solid particles based on the
total weight of the composition. In particular, the composition comprises from 10% to 18%,
preferably from 10% to 15%, by weight of solid particles based on the total weight of the
3 5 composition.
As used herein, the term "solid" means in the solid state at 25"C, at atmospheric
pressure (101325 Pa). - -
In one embodiment, the solid particles are asymmetric solid particles.
As used herein, the term "asymmetric solid particles" means that the particles have
5 no specific symmetry. For example, these particles can be of round, oval or plate-like
type, but without particular symmetry. The solid particles employed in the composition
notably impart cream-like viscosity. In case of asymmetric solid particles, the particles
deliver high skin frictions.
In one embodiment, the solid particles are platelike asymmetrrc particles, such that
10 upon application they align under shear to give perceived dry and draggy feel.
In one embodiment, the average particle size of the solid particles may range from
10.' to lo3 micron, preferably from 10.' to 10' micron. The particle size may be measured
by Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) or with a good resolution optical microscope.
15
According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid particles are solid fatty
acid(s) having a melting point from 35°C to 10O0C, preferably from 40°C to 85"C, more
preferably from 50°C to 80°C, and for example from 65°C to 75°C.
As used herein, the term "solid fatty acid" means a fatty acid which is solid at
20 ambient temperature (25"C), with a reversible change of solidlliquid state, having a
melting point higher or equal to 35"C, preferably lower than 10O0C, notably lower than
85°C.
As used herein, the "melting point" corresponds to the temperature of the most
endothermic pic observed in DSC (thermal analysis) such as described in IS0 11357-3
25 norm (1999). The melting point of the solid fatty acid may be measured by traditional
method, such as for eitample with a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), typically the
calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA instruments.
In particular, the solid fatty acid(s) are crystals of fatty acid(s), which are for example
30 a specific type of platelike asymmetric particles.
In one embodiment, the fatty acid comprises a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain
having from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, said
fatty acid is a linear alkyl chain fatty acid.
In one embodiment, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of: stearic
3 5 acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid,
5
cerotic acid and mixtures thereof. Preferably, in one embodiment, the solid fatty acid is
stearic acid, palmit-ic- acid or mixtures thereof. --
In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises 10% to 18% by weight of
5 solid fatty acid(s), based on the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the solid particles are inorganic solid
particles, notably selected from the group consisting of: talc, mica, clay, and mixtures
thereof.
10 In one embodiment, the inorganic particles are talc.
As used herein, the term "talc" means a mineral composed of hydrated magnesium
silicate with the chemical formula H2Mg3(Si03)o4r Mg3Si40i0(OH)2.
The talc may be selected from those under the name TALC SG-20008
commercialized by Nippon Talc, LUZENAC PHARMA M8 commercialized by LUZENAC,
15 J-68BC commercialized by US Corporation and MICRO ACE-P-38 commercialized by
Nippon Talc.
Talc is preferably in the form of particles having a mean particle size comprised from
1 pm to 10 pm.
In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises from 10% to 18% by weight
20 of talc, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the solid particles are in the oily phase. Preferably, when the
solid particles are solid fatty acid@), the solid particles are in the oily phase.
25 Crosslinked copolymer
The composition of the invention comprises at least one crosslinked copolynier
comprising at least .one unit of an unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid, and at least one
hydrophobic unit of a (C,o-C30)alkyel ster of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
In particular, the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid unit is a hydrophilic unit.
In particular, the (Cio-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid unit is a
hydrophobic unit.
Thus, such crosslinked copolymer may comprise at least one hydrophiiic unit of
the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type and at least one hydrophobic unit of (Cfo-
C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type.
3 5 As used herein, "at least one crosslinked copolymer" means one crosslinked
copolymer or a mixture of copolymers.
6
In one embodiment, said copolymer is a block copolymer.
As used herein, the term (C,o-C30)alkyl means an alkyl gr-o-u p, linear or branched,
comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
5 In one embodiment, the molecular weight of the above-mentioned copolymer is of
at least 50 kD.
In one embodiment, the above-mentioned crosslinked c ~ ~ o l . ~ maree crh osen from
those comprising:
10 - at least one unit derived from olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid
monomers of formula (I):
wherein Rt is selected from the group consisting of :H, CH3, and C2H5, (which
corresponds respectively to acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and ethacrylic acid
units), and
- at least one unit derived from (Cto-Cso)alkyel sters of unsaturated carboxylic
acid monomers of formula (11):
H,C= C- COR,
I I1 (11)
R2 0
wherein R2 is selected from the group consisting of: H, CH3, and C2H5 (which
corresponds respectively to acrylate, methacrylate and ethacrylate units), and
R3 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched (Clo-C30)alkyl group.
As used herein, the term "at least one unit derived from olefinic unsaturated
carboxylic acid monomers of formula (I)" means that said unit is formed from the
monomers of formula (I), for example by polymerization of the monomers of formula (I).
In one embodiment, for example, R, is chosen from H (acrylate units) and CH3
(methacrylate units) and RQ is chosen from (C,2-C22)alkyl groups.
7
(Clo-C30)alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the
in-v-e ntio- n include for example lauryl acrylate, stearyl a-c-r ylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl
acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate,
isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate.
5 Crosslinked copolymer of this type are for example described and prepared
according to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949, the disclosures of which are
incorporated by reference herein.
In one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymer that can be used include those formed
from a mixture of monomers comprising:
10 (a) acrylic acid,
(b) at least one ester of formula (11) described above wherein R, is chosen from H
and CH3, and R3 is chosen from alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 22 carbon
atoms, and . (c) at least one crosslinking agent chosen from copolymerizable polyethylenic
unsaturated monomers such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate,
divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene.glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.
In one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymers of the invention that can be used
include (% being given with respect to the total weight of the respective copolymers):
- copolymers comprising from 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic
20 unit), from 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C3a0l kyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from 0%
to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, and
- copolymers comprising from 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic
unit), from 1% to 4% by weight of C10-C3a0l kyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and from 0.1%
to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.
Among the above crosslinked copolymers, the products sold by the company
Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN TRIO, PEMULEN TR28, and CARBOPOL
13828 can be used.
Preferably, the crosslinked copolymer used in the present invention is PEMULEN
TR28, which is a acrylate~/C~a~lk-yCl ~ac~ry late crosspolymer.
30 in one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises from 0.05% to 5%
by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 0.5% by
weight of the above-mentioned crosslinked copolymer, based on the total weight of the
8
composition. In particular, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 0.15% by weight of
above-mentioned crosslinked copolymer, based ~~~~~ on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the crosslinked copolymer is used as an emulsifier of the
5 composition.
Alkyl phosphate ester salts
According to the invention, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 15% by
weight of at least one alkyl phosphate ester salt, based on the total weight of the
10 composition.
In one embodiment, the alkyl phosphate ester is used as a co-emulsifier of the
composition.
In one embodiment, the alkyl phosphate ester is a dialkyl phosphate ester or a
15 monoalkyl phosphate ester. Preferably, the alkyl phosphate ester is a
monoalkylphosphate ester.
As used herein, the term "monoalkyl" means that the phosphate element is linked to
only one alkyl chain.
20 As used herein, the term "dialkyl" means that the phosphate element is linked to two
alkyl chains.
In one embodiment, the monoalkyl phosphate ester salt possesses the following
formula (Ill):
wherein:
- R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl group
comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms,
more preferably from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;
- A represents an alkylene group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms;
- n represents an integer comprised from 0 to 20, preferably n is 0;
- X represents alkali metals, such as potassium, lithium and sodium.
9
In one embodiment, the dialkyl phosphate ester salt is a dicetyl phosphate salt, such
as a potassium dicetyl phosphate. - -
In another embodiment, the monoalkyl phosphate ester salt is a potassium cetyl
phosphate, for example commercialized under the trade names AmphisolB K (Roche),
5 AmphisolB A (Roche), ArlatoneB MAP (Uniqema), CrodafosB MCA (Croda).
In one embodiment, the total content of alkyl phosphate(s) ester salt, or in one
embodiment the total content of monoalkyl phosphate(s) ester salt, in the composition is
from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, and more preferably
10 from 1% by weight to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the ratio R, wherein:
R = alkyl phosphate ester salts I crosslinked copolymer
alkyl phosphate ester salts and crosslinked copolymer being as defined above, ranges
15 from 20 : 1 to 10 : 0.1, preferably from 10 : 1 to 10:l.
In one embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the ratio R, wherein:
R = monoalkyl phosphate ester salts I crosslinked copolymer
monoalkyl phosphate ester salts and crosslinked copolymer being as defined above,
ranges from 20 : 1 to 10 : 0.1, preferably from 10 : 1 to 10:l.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises:
- i) from 10% to 20% by weight of solid particles, preferably solid fatty
acid(s) or talc, based on the total weight of the composition;
- ii) from 0.05% to 2% by weight at least one crosslinked comprising at
least one unit of an unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid, and at least
one unit of a (Clo-C30)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid,
- iii) from 0.2% to 2% by weight of monoalkyl phosphate ester salts,
based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises:
- i) from 12% to 15% by weight of solid stearic acid or talc, based on the
total weight of the composition;
- ii) from 0.05% to 1% by weight of at least one crosslinked as defined
above, based on the total weight of the composition;
- iii) from 0.2% to 2% by weight of potassium cetyl phosphate, based on
the total weight of the composition.
Phvsiologicallv acceptable medium
In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the
invention may include a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that
5 non-toxic and is particularly capable of being applied to the skin or the lips.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable for the nature of the
support to which the composition should be applied, and also for the way in which the
composition should be packaged.
The composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase. Such aqueous
phase may in particular comprise water and optionally hydrophilic solvents such as
monoalcohols comprising from 1 to 8 carbon atoms (in particular ethanol, isopropanol,
propanol, butanol), polyols (in particular propylene glycol, butylene glycol), and
polyethylene glycols (in particular PEG-8, dipropylene glycol) and mixtures thereof.
15
The composition of the present invention typically comprises water in amounts
ranging from about 5% to 95%, preferably from about 30% to about 90%, and more
preferably from about 50% to about 85% by weight based on the total weight of the
composition.
The composition of the invention comprises an oily phase, said oily phase usually
comprises at least one oil.
For example, as oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention
may be made of:
25 - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids
containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid
triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil,
marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, capryliclcapric acid
triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold
under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and
shea butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of
formulae RlCOOR2 and R10R2 in which R1 represents a fatty acid residue
containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched or
unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms,
for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or
isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate,
octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate or
triisocetyl citrate; fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol
esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol
diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol
esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- straight or branched hydrocarbons of inorganic or synthetic origin, such as
volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum
jelly, polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol,
stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-
butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl
alcohol;
- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based fluoro oils, for instance
those described in document JP-A-2-295 912;
- silicone oils, for instance volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes
(PDMSs) with a straight or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at
room temperature, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones)
such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl, alkoxy or
phenyl groups, which are pendent or at the end of a silicone chain, these
groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones, for instance
phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,
phenyltriiiiethylsiloxyciiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,
diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates,
and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and
- mixtures thereof.
In the list of the above-mentioned oils, the term "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to
mean any oil predominantly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester,
ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion
3 5 (ON).
As used herein, the term "emulsion" means a composition containing at least one
aqueous phase and at least one oily phase of which at least o~n- -e- ~o~f- ~t~h e phases is
dispersed in the other phase, with or without emulsifier.
In one embodiment, the emulsion is a simple emulsion, i.e., the composition
5 contains only one aqueous phase and one oily phase.
In another embodiment, the emulsion is a multiple emulsion, for example a double
emulsion.
The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion may range from 0.5% to 80% by
weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the
10 composition.
The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier for example selected from
the group consisting of: amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone
or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier.
In the present invention, these emulsifiers are different from the crosslinked
15 copolymer of the invention, and are called "additional emulsifiers". The emulsifier and the
additional emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a total proportion ranging
from 0.3% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition.
For WIO emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include
20 dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol
sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such
as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid
by Dow Corning, and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 908 by
Goldschmidt. A crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane containing at least one
25 oxyalkylenated group, such as those obtained according to the procedure of Examples 3,
4 and 8 of document US-A-5 412 004 and of the examples of document US-A-5 81 1 487,
especially the product of Example 3 (synthesis example) of patent US-A-5 412 004, such
as the product sold under the reference KSG 21 by Shin-Etsu, may also be used as
surfactant for WIO emulsions.
30 For ONV emulsions, examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include nonionic
emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) fatty acid
esters of glycerol; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated
(oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated
andlor oxypropylenated) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and
35 mixtures thereof, such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.
Additives such as benefit aqents
The composition according to the invention may also -- further comprise any additive
normally used in the freld under consideration, for example selected from anionic, cationic,
amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersants,
5 semicrystalline polymers, thickeners, antioxidants, fillers, coloring materials, essential oils,
preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, antiseptics, anti-UV protective agents, skin
benefiting ingredients, such as: vitamins, skin lightening agents, hydrating agents,
emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the
compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the
cosmetic properties and the stability properties desired for these compositions are not
affected by the additives.
As used herein, the term "skin benefiting ingredient" also refers to "skin benefiting
15 agent", "cosmetic active agent" or "cosmetic active ingredient".
For example, preservatives may be incorporated into the compositions of the
present invention to protect against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms.
Suitable traditional preservatives include alkyl esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid.
20 Other preservatives which have more recently come into use include hydantoin
derivatives, propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds.
Cosmetic chemists are familiar with appropriate preservatives and routinely choose them
to satisfy the preservative challenge test and to provide product stability. Particularly
preferred preservatives are disodium and tetrasodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, methyl
25 paraben, butyl paraben, propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl urea (commercially available as
Germall 1157), sodium dehydroacetate and benzyl alcohol.
The preservatives are preferably employed in amounts ranging from 0.01% to about
2% by weight of the composition.
30 A wide variety of organic sunscreen agents may be suitable for use in combination
with the essential ingredients of this invention. Suitable UV-A / UV-B sunscreen agents
include, 2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid,
digalloyltrioleate, 2,2-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropy1))
aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2propenoate (octocrylene), 2-
3 5 ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate,
methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl- aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p14
dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(Pd-
im ethylaminopheny1)-5-sulfonic-benzoxazoic aci-d,- 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate,
butylmethoxy-dibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-paminobenzoic
acid and mixtures thereof. The most suitable organic sunscreens are 2-
ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2propenoate (octocrylene) and butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane.
A safe and effective amount of UV sunscreen may be used in the compositions
useful in the subject invention. The composition preferably comprises from about 0.1 % to
about lo%, more preferably from about 0.5 % to about 5% by weight of at least one
sunscreen agent based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.01% to lo%, preferably from
0.1% to 5%, and more preferably from 0.2% to 1% by weight of at least one skin
benefiting ingredient, based on the total weight of the composition.
As skin benefiting ingredient, mention may be made of skin lightening agent, which
may be selected from niacin, alkali or alkaline earth metal salts of lactic acid and/or
acyloxyl lactylate, retinol and derivatives, hydroquinone and derivatives (e.g. arbutin), kojic
acid, dicarboxylic acids (e.g. azelaic acid, sebacic acid), represented by the formula
HOOC-(C,H,)-COOH where x ranges from 4 to 20 and y ranges from 6 to 40, ascorbic
acid and derivatives thereof, and diols such as 4-(1-phenylethy1)benzene-1,3-diol.
Preferably, the skin lightening agent is 4-(1-pheny1ethyl)benzene-1,3-diol, for
example commercialized under the trade name Symwhite 3778 by the company Symrise.
As skin benefiting ingredient, mention may also be made of vitamins, such as
vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin 65 (panthenol), vitamin 63
(niacinamide), and their derivatives (such as esters), and their mixtures thereof.
As used herein, the term "surfactant" means a detergent and differs from an
emulsifier according to the value of the HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance), the HLB
being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in a molecule.
The term HLB is well known by the skilled person and is described for example in
"The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas
Inc ; 1984). For emulsifiers, HLB is typically comprised from 3 to 8 for preparing water-inoil
emulsions, and from 8 to 18 for preparing oil-in-water emulsions, whereas surfactants
typically have a HLB higher than 20.
15
HLB of the surfactant(s) which may be used in the compositions of the invention,
may be determined by the GRIFFIN method- o r by the DAVIES method.
The preferred surfactants are selected from anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic andlor
cationic surfactants, and any of their mixtures.
5
The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.0% to 1.0% by weight of
surfactant(s), preferably from 0.0% to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.0% to
0.1% by weight, base on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises less than 1.0% by weight of
10 surfactant(s), preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1%, based on
the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the composition does not comprise surfactant.
In one embodiment, the composition is a sulfate surfactants free composition.
15 Preferably, the composition does not comprise a sulfate surfactant.
As used herein, the term "free" means that the composition does not comprise or
comprises at most 1% by weight of a compound based on the total weight of the
composition.
20
Uses - Industrial applications
In one embodiment, the composition of the invention is a cosmetic composition,
preferably a vanishing cream composition.
The present invention also concerns the use of the composition as defined above
25 as a vanishing cream.
The present invention also concerns the use of the composition as defined above
for the stabilization of at least one skin benefiting ingredient.
The present invention also concerns a method of skin care comprising applying to
the skin a composition as defined above.
3 0
The present invention is further described by way of the following non-limiting
examples.
Examples
35 In all the following examples, the provided % is % by weight based on the total weight of
the composition.
16
Example 1 : Composition 1 -Low pH vanishing cream composition
I Ingredients I %
1 Preservative 0.40
- I
Water qs
A1
B 1 OLEOCHEMICALS) 15.00
A2
Preservative
A~rylatel(C,~-C,~a)lk yl acrylate
(Pemulen-TR28 of LUBRIZOL)
Potassium cetyl phosphate
lsopropyl~nyr~sta(tIeP M, Croda) 1 00
Phenvlethvl resorc~nol I- I - -
0.25
0.20
(EVERMAP 1 6 0 ~o8f SIN0
LION)
Stearic acid (EDENOR ST 05
MY8 of EMERY
Cetyl alcohol (Cognis)
1 .OO
0.50
B1
Propyl paraben (Clariant)
I NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)
5 qs : quantity sufficient to 100%
0.10
(SYMWHITE 3778 of SYMRISE)
tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E
acetate care8 of basf)
Avobenzone (Eusolex 90208 of
Merck)
Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC)
(PARSOL MCXB of DSM
0.50
C
Method of reparation:
I. Phase A was heated up to 75°C and mixed well.
2. Phase A1 was slowly added to phase A with stirring. The mixture was stirred
until Pemulen-TR28 solubilized well in phase A.
0.30
0.60
0.40
I Ascorbvl alucoside (L-ascorbic I
3. Phase A2 was added to main phase A. Temperature was maintained at
75°C.
4. Phase B was melted at 75°C. Phase B was then slowly added to phase A
while mixing. Temperature was maintained at 75°C.
, "
acid 2 - glucoside8 of
hayashibara)
Water
0.01
1
5. Phase B1 was mixed well at 70°C till dissolution and added to phase A at
60°C.
6. The mixture was allowed to cool slowly, with continuous mixing. PGFe C
was added at 50°C and mixed well
7. Phase D was added at 45°C with continuous mixing.
8. The resulting composition is allowed to cool down to room temperature.
The composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.
10 pH of composition 1 : 5.7-6.2
Example 2 : Composition 2 -Low pH vanishina cream composition
I Ingredients I % I
Water qs
C
D
qs : quantity sufficient to 100%
1 Water
Preservative
Merck)
Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC)
(PARSOL MCXB of DSM
NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)
Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl
taurate
Ascorbyl glucoside (L-ascorbic acid
2 - glucosideB of hayashibara)
1
n 40
0.40
0.50
0.1
0.01
E I Silicon-oil 1 .OO
Method of preparation:
1. Phas@A was heated up to 75°C and mixed well
2. Phase A1 was slowly added to phase A with stirring. The mixture was
stirred until Pemulen-TR28 solubilized well in phase A.
3. Phase A2 was added to main phase A. Temperature was maintained at
75°C.
4. Phase B was melted at 75°C. Phase B was then slowly added to phase A
while mixing. Temperature was maintained at 75°C.
5. Phase B1 was mixed well at 70°C till dissolution and added to phase A at
60°C.
6. Phase C was then added to main phase A while mixing at 60°C.
7. The mixture was then allowed to cool slowly, with continuous mixing.
Phase D was added at 50°C and mixed well.
8. Phase E was added at 45°C with continuous mixing.
9. The resulting composition is allowed to cool down to room temperature.
The composition is an oil-in-water emulsion
20 pH of compositionl: 5.4 - 5.8
The composition 1 was applied to the skin of a panel of volunteers. The sensory
evaluation indicates that the composition provides identical sensorial benefits than
typical vanishing cream, such as desirable creamy texture characteristics upon
25 application onto skin, ease of absorption, dry feel, clean and matte end-feel, which helps
overcoming the greasy and shiny appearance of the skin.
Example 3: Composition 3 - Traditional vanishina cream composition
30 (Comparative example)
Ingredients %
I I I Glycerine 1 1.00
Tetrasodium EDTA 1 0.04
Ti02 (Tipaque pf-671, cosmetic
grade8 of lshihara Sangyo)
Preservative
0.70
0.40
I I
B Stearic acid (EDENOR ST 05 16.00
MY8 of EMERY
B1 1 Preservative 1 0.40
of Merck
(PARSOL MCXB of DSM
C
qs : quantity sufficient to 100%
D
5 Method of preparation:
1. Phase A was heated up to 75°C and mixed well.
2. Phase B was melted at 75°C and was slowly added to phase A while mixing.
The mass was mixed at 75°C for 15-20 minutes.
3. Phase B1 was mixed and melted at 70°C. Phase B1 was then added to the
mixture of step 2, at 60°C.
4. Phase C was then added at 50°C.
5. Phase D was added at 45°C.
6. The resulting composition is allowed to cool down to room temperature.
NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS)
tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E
acetate care@ of basf)
Phenylethyl resorcinol
(SYMWHITE 3778 of
SYMRISE)
Ascorbyl glucoside (L-ascorbic
acid 2 - alucosideB of
15 The composition is an oil-in-water composition
0.50
0.60
0.30
0.01
-
hayashibara)
water
Siliconoil
The pH of composition 3: 7.00 - 7.25 (pH was measured by standard method).
1 .OO
1 .OO
The composition 3 was applied to the skin of a panel of volunteers. The sensory
20 evaluation indicates that this composition provides sensorial benefits typically obtained
with such type of traditional acidlsoap vanishing cream.
25 Example 4 : Assessment of the compositions' stability
The stability of the acidic active (Phenylethyl resorcinol, Symwhite) was assessed for the
composition 1, composition 2 (examples 1 and 2) and the control composition 3 of
example 3. The results are provided in the following table:

1 Compositions 1 After 3 months at I
45°C
Composition 1 1 No color change -
composition 3 unacceptable brown
(example 1)
It was shown that the control composition 3 (example 3) being a traditional vanishing
cream is not stable in presence of the acidic skin benefiting ingredient such as for
example Phenylethyl resorcinol (Symwhite 377). More particularly, this is considered to
5 be due to the instability of the acidic skin benefiting ingredient in said control composition,
wherein the pH is equal to or higher than 7.
On the contrary, the compositions of the invention (compositions 1 and 2) having low pH,
in particular pH below 7, comprising the acidic skin benefiting ingredient (Symwhite) are
chemically and physically stable.

-
stable
Example 5: Composition 4 (Comparative example of composition 1)
Composition 2 I No color change -
I Ingredients / % I
Preservative
TiO, (Tipaque pf-671, cosmetic
Water
1 Preservative
A 2 / Potassium cetvl phosphate
qs
HI / (EVERMAP 1 6 0 k oi SINO LION) 1 1.00
I Stearic acid (EDENOR ST 05 MY8 of I

EMERY OLEOCHEMICALS) 1 15.00
GMS (Glycerol Monostearate) 1 0.20
Cetyl alcohol (Cognis)
Propyl paraben (Clariant)
lsopropylmyristate (IPM, Croda)
Phenylethyl resorcinol (SYMWHITE
3778 of SYMRISE)
tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate
care8 of basf)
Avobenzone (Eusolex 90208 of
Merck)
0.50
0.10
1 .OO
0.30
0.60
0.40
Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC)
(PARSOL MCXB of DSM
NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS) 0.50
Ascorbyl glucoside (L-ascorbic acid 2 - 0.01
glucoside8 of hayashibara)
Water 1
qs : quantity sufficient to 100%
Method of preparation:
1. Phase A was heated up to 75°C and mixed well.
2. Phase A1 was slowly added to phase A with stirring. The mixture was stirred until
Pemulen-TR2B solubilized well in phase A.
3. Phase A2 was added to main phase A. Temperature was maintained at 75°C.
4. Phase B was melted at 75°C. Phase B was then slowly added to phase A while
10 mixing. Temperature was maintained at 75°C.
5. Phase B1 was mixed well at 70°C till dissolution and added to phase A at 60°C.
6. The mixture was allowed to cool slowly, with continuous mixing. Phase C was
added at 50°C and mixed well.
7. Phase D was added at 45°C with continuous mixing.
15 8. The resulting composition is allowed to cool down to room temperature.
The composition is an oil-in-water emulsion.
pH of the composition 4: 6.85-6.96
Assessment of the compositions' stability of composition 1 (example I), and composition
4 (example 5):
I Composition 1 I
(of the invention)
Composition 4 (comparative)
Water was observed at the top of the
composition. after 2-3 days at room
temperature - Unstable
The composition 1 and composition 4 were applied on the skin of female volunteers.
80% of the total volunteers found that composition 1 provides better vanishing cream
benefits than composition 4, such as quick absorption, dry-draggy and matte end-feel,
which helps overcoming the greasy and shiny appearance of the skin.
30
Example 6: Composition 5 - Vanishing cream with asymmetric solid particles
(Talc)
I I Ingredients I %
1 Preservative 1 0,25
I Acrvlatel(C,n-Can) alkvl ac~late I
Water
Preservative
Dipropylene glycol
Tetrasodium EDTA
TiO, (Tipaque pf-671, cosmetic grade8
of lshihara Sangyo)

I Potassium cetvl phosphate (EVERMAP I
qs
0,40
5,OO
0,15
0,40
I 160K8 of SINO LION^ 1 1,OO 1 Talc 1 15,OO
I Avobenone (Eusoex 9 0 2 0 of M e ) ;,4;
Octylmethoxycinnamate (OMC)
(PARSOL MCXB of DSM
NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS
Silicon-oil
qs : quantity sufficient to 100%
pH of the above composition 5 : 6.0-6.2
Cetyl alcohol (Cognis)
Propyl paraben (Clariant)
lsopropylmyristate (IPM, Croda)
Phenylethyl resorcinol (SYMWHITE
3778 of SYMRISE)
tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate
care8 of basf)

Method of preparation:
1. Phase A was heated up to 75°C.
2. Phase A1 added to main phase A slowly while mixing. A1 was missed well
0,50
0,lO
1 ,00
0,30
0,60
till complete dispersion. The medium was mixed at 75°C
3. Phase A2 was then added to main phase A and mixed well
4. Phase B was added in main phase.
15 5. The constituents of phase C were mixed and were melted at 70°C, then
complete mass was added to the mixture of main phase.
6. Phase D was added at 45°C.
7. The resulting composition was allowed to cool down to room temperature.
The composition is an oil-in-water emulsion

The composition 5 was applied on the skin of female volunteers. The sensory evaluation
indicates that the composition provides identical sensorial benefits than typical vanishing
cream, such as desirable creamy texture characteristics upon application onto skin, ease
of absorption, dry feel, clean and matte end-feel, which helps overcoming the greasy and
shiny appearance of the skin.

CLAIMS
1. Composition comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase,
wherein said composition comprises:
- i) at least 4% by weight of solid particles, preferably selected from the
group consisting of: solid fatty acid@), inorganic particles, and mixtures
thereof;
- ii) from 0.01% to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinked copolymer
comprising at least one unit of an unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid,
and at least one unit of a (C,,-Cso)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic
acid;
- iii) from 0.01% to 15% by weight of alkyl phosphate ester salts,
wherein the percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the
composition.
2. Composition according to claim 1, having a pH comprised from 4 to 6.5,
preferably from 4.5 to 6.2.
3. Composition according to any one of claim 1 or 2, wherein the solid particles are
solid fatty acid(s), wherein the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of:
stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid,
lignoceric acid, cerotic acid and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of claim 1 or 2, wherein the solid particles are
inorganic solid particles selected from the groupconsisting of: talc, mica, clay,
and mixtures thereof.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the alkyl phosphate
ester salt is a monoalkyl phosphate ester salt, in particular potassium cetyl
phosphate.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the at least one
crosslinked copolymer comprises:
- at least one unit derived from 'olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid
monomers of formula (I):
H,C= C C - OH
I I1 (1) -
R1 O
wherein R, is selected from the group consisting of :H, CH3, and CZHS, and
- at least one unit derived from (C,o-C,o)alkyl esters of unsaturated
carboxylic acid monomers of formula (11):
H,C=C- COR,
I I1 (11)
R2 O
wherein R2 is selected from the group consisting of: H, CH3, and CzH5, and R3 is a
saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched (C,o-C30)alkygl roup.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising from 0.5% to. 5%
by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the crosslinked copolymer.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 comprising:
- i) from 10% to 20% by weight of solid particles, preferably solid fatty
acid(s) or talc;
- ii) from 0.05% to 2% by weight of at least one crosslinked copolymer;
iii) from 0.2% to 2% by weight of alkyl phosphate ester salts,
wherein the percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is an
oil-in-water emulsion.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition is a
cosmetic composition, preferably a vanishing cream composition.
11. A method of skin care comprising applying to the skin a composition according to
any one of claims 1 to 10.