1. FIELD OF INVENTION
Environmentally Friendly Heal the Ozone Layer
TRUCK / BUS / CAR / MOTORCYCLE / AEROPLANE/ RAIL / ANY ENGINE SMALL OR BIG CAN RUN ON 100% WATER. TO RUN YOUR ENGINE ON TAP WATER.Use water as A fuel instead of petrol ,diesel or gasoline
3. BACKGROUND OF INVENTION WITH REGARDS TO THE DRAWBACK
ASSOCIATED WITH KNOWN ART
Making combustible Oxy/Hydrogen gas from water is a real explosive gas and should be treated with respect and can be a dangerous activity. Even as gasoline is a highly flammable, it has caused bad accidents. . If you plan to make a hydrogen booster from these ideas I'm sharing and giving away, you do so at your own risk and your own responsibility. Please be safe. The main rule is no spark outside of the water in your cell, don't touch your wire connections as the unit is running, it may cause a spark and a leaking egas hose will ignite! Your output hose cannot leak! Just like your fuel line cannot be leaking all over a hot exhaust manifold. Also hook a switch up so you can turn it off while the engine running. I have mine hooked up to the ignition wiring, so it is only ON, when the ignition is ON. Remember safety is no accident. You know best when you are ready engine battery to separate water into a gas called HHO (2 Hydrogen + 1 Oxygen). HHO, also called Brown's Gas or Hydroxy, burns smoothly and provides significant energy - while the end product is just H20! HHO provides the atomic power of Hydrogen, while maintaining the stability of water.
4. OBJECT OF INVENTION
Water fuel
5. STATEMENT OF INVENTION
A method by which we can get hydrogen and oxygen gas from water in which the water is processed by an electrolyses process.
6. SUMMARY OF INVENTION
If I want to explain this technology in one word is electrolysis
One 4"x 4"plate x 20 =1 litter per minute (hydrogen and oxygen gas) can be produce,
according to your engine requirement you can increase or decrease the production of
water gas by adding more plates .1 do not want to bound my self in any limit (shape &
size) .You can use as electrode SS nuts bolts ,pipes ,rods ,plates ,wires ,coils carbon
plates as cathodes or anodes .
Pressure must be 30 psi ( per square inch ) made with Stainless Steel perforated plates,
threaded rod and a water filter housing. The cell, under charge, from a simple battery
re charger, Showing the e gas coming off the plates.
The secret is to make neutral plates in your cell to absorb the voltage. (-NN N N+N N N N -) Center plate is positive. Outside plates are negative. The "N" stands for neutral, these plates do not electrically hook up to anything, just in the way of the current, in which lowers the voltage to 2-3 volts between the plates. The lower voltage keeps from cooking the electrodes and causing cell clean out once a month. Red anode mud we call it, if your cell produces this, change your cell by adding neutral or dummy plates and you will see this stuff go away .The neutral plates are solid . Plates are perforated SS. The perforations allow the HO bubbles to expel more easier.
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your (internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the components.
This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline. This "system" runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into your carburetor with simple fittings.
You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure fitting, and gauges, and then hooking into your existing air cleaner.
The simplicity comes from its being an "on-demand" system requiring no fancy stoage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you electrically create more vapor'for immediate consumption, on demand; low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The only real change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based fuel.
7. A PRE DESCRIPTION OF ACCOMPANYING DRAWING
REACTION CHAMBER
Construct as shown in the diagram. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads thru the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapor pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure.
The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1 -5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel plates. The referenced literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be waterproof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
CONTROL CIRCUIT
The diagrams show a simple circuit to control and drive this -system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: the faster you want do go down the road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%MARK 10%SPACE (OFF/ON).
There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few. The -circuit approach (see diagrams) . The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ 12VDC (in saturation).
Go with a plan that works for you , and go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box.
Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber compartment will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it.
You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and thru-hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
Throttle Control
If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level = pulse width = vapor rate).
If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable . If you make the attachment at the carburetor, be sure to use a POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.
Control Range. The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapor rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1 -5 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse. The 'resonant' pulse in the 10-250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so.
In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapor conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done.
You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 - 100 usee on the horizontal time-base). Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-10% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5-5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything you wanted.
Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring 1 at a time and.yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You will want to get your chamber level sensor verified before you epoxy the cap on.
8. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION REFRENCE TO DRAWING/EXAMPLES
If I want to explain this technology in one word is electrolysis
One 4"x 4"plate x 20 =1 litter per minute (hydrogen and oxygen gas) can be produce,
according to your engine requirement you can increase or decrease the production of
water gas by adding more plates .1 do not want to bound my self in any limit (shape &
size) .You can use as electrode SS nuts bolts ,pipes ,rods ,plates ,wires ,coils carbon
plates as cathodes or anodes .
Pressure must be 30 psi ( per square inch) made with Stainless Steel perforated plates,
threaded rod and a water filter housing. The cell, under charge, from a simple battery
re charger , Showing the e gas coming off the plates.
The secret is to make neutral plates in your cell to absorb the voltage. (- N N N N +N N N N -) Center plate is positive. Outside plates are negative. The "N" stands for neutral, these plates do not electrically hook up to anything, just in the way of the current, in which lowers the voltage to 2-3 volts between the plates. The lower voltage keeps from cooking the electrodes and causing cell clean out once a month. Red anode mud we call it, if your cell produces this, change your cell by adding neutral or dummy plates and you will see this stuff go away .The neutral plates are solid . Plates are perforated SS. The perforations allow the HO bubbles to expel more easier.
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your (internal combustion engine) on tap water, using off-the components.
This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous hydrogen and oxygen, and then burn these vapors in the engine, instead of gasoline.
This "system" runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into your carburetor with simple fittings.
You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure fitting, and gauges, and then hooking into your existing air cleaner.
The simplicity comes from its being an "on-demand" system requiring no fancy storage or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle, and you electrically create more vapor for immediate consumption, on demand; low-high flow rate as needed, from idle to maximum power. The only real change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based fuel.
CARB/FI CONNECTION
Making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built-in vents and making a 1-way air-intake.
The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure safety valve.
CHT (or EGT)
Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is too slow for this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt something. Make sure that your engine runs no hotter than in the gasoline arrangement. V CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is really clean before you re-install your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).
ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT
Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones and get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated ASAP when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items will rust, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it rusts through, then fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be easier and cheaper to send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.
Our easy conversion guide will show you how to use electricity from your battery to separate water into a gas called HHO (2 Hydrogen + 1 Oxygen). HHO, also called Brown's Gas or Hydroxy, burns smoothly and provides significant energy - while the end product is just H20! HHO provides the atomic power of Hydrogen, while maintaining the stability of water .you can see water vapor in EXHAUST.
e.g. like in math 2+2=4 every time every where it will remain same. I think without my presence it is not possible.

9.CLAIM
We can run any engine on 100% on tap water by a method by which we can get hydrogen and oxygen gas from water in which the water is processed by an electrolyses process because hydrogen is highly inflammable and oxygen help in burning any substance.