WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION CONTAINING AN EMULSIFYING
SILICONE ELASTOMER AND ONE OR MORE LINEAR VOLATILE
ALKANES
The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic
care and/or makeup composition in the form of a water-
in-oil emulsion containing an emulsifying silicone
elastomer and one or more linear volatile alkane(s).
Such a composition simultaneously exhibits good
stability, a fluid nature, easy application and a soft
and matting final result.
Care and/or makeup compositions, in particular
foundations, are provided in the form of varied
textures ranging from fluid to solid.
Consumers find fluid textures attractive because
they are easy to apply and give the feeling of a thin
film and a light and natural finish which is forgotten
after application.
It is nevertheless difficult to obtain fluid
textures in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, with a
high content of aqueous phase, desired for its
freshness and moisturization benefits and nongreasy
effect, which tends towards thickening the composition.
Moreover, fluid textures, in particular when they
contain pulverulent materials, in particular high-
density particles (for example: pigments, inorganic
fillers) exhibit problems of stability over time. In
addition, when the product is intended to provide
mattness and fastness and when it contains a high level
of pulverulent materials and, optionally, the presence
of a film-forming agent, the drying time is generally
very short, which prevents the product from being
worked on the skin for a sufficiently long period of
time.
It therefore appears to be of interest to be able
to develop matting care and/or makeup compositions
which ally good fluidity and good stability and which
can be worked on the skin for a long time, giving a
soft and matting finish.
The applicant has found, surprisingly, that the
use of one or more volatile linear C7-C14 alkanes, in
particular with a flashpoint >70°C, makes it possible
to fluidify a composition containing an emulsifying
silicone elastomer, even with a very high level of
aqueous phase (aqueous phase/liquid fatty phase ratio
>1). The combination according to the invention
therefore makes it possible to formulate fluid water-
in-oil emulsions with a high level of aqueous phase.
The applicant has, moreover, shown that the use of
one or more volatile linear alkanes, in particular with
a flashpoint >70°C, and of at least one emulsifying
silicone elastomer, makes it possible to obtain a
product containing pulverulent materials with good
fluidity, good stability, good application properties
and a soft and matting effect after application.
According to a first aspect, the subject of the
invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for
caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in
particular the skin, in the form of a water-in-oil
emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable
medium:
(i) at least one or more, in particular
C7-C14, volatile linear alkane(s),
(ii) at least one emulsifying silicone
elastomer.
According to a first embodiment, the invention
relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or
making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one or more, in particular
C7-C14, volatile linear alkane(s),
(ii) at least one emulsifying silicone
elastomer, and
(iii) at least 10% by weight of pulverulent
materials, relative to the total weight
of said composition.
According to another embodiment, the invention
relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or
making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one or more, in particular
C7-C14, volatile linear alkane(s), and
(ii) at least one emulsifying silicone
elastomer, and
characterized in that the aqueous phase/liquid fatty
phase ratio is greater than 1.
According to another embodiment, the invention
relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for and/or
making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a
physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one or more, in particular
C7-C14, volatile linear alkane(s),
(ii) at least one emulsifying silicone
elastomer, and
(iii) at least 10% by weight of pulverulent
materials, relative to the total weight
of said composition, and
characterized in that the aqueous phase/liquid fatty
phase ratio is greater than 1.
The present invention is also directed towards a
cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up
keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising
the application of a composition according to the
invention.
The composition according to the invention is in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an
aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid fatty phase, and
comprises at least one physiologically acceptable
medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is
intended to denote a medium that is particularly
suitable for the application of a composition of the
invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin
and the lips.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally
adapted to the nature of the substrate onto which the
composition is to be applied, and also to the way in
which the composition is to be packaged.
The composition according to the invention
comprises at least one or more, in particular C7-C14,
volatile linear alkanes.
VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES
The composition of the invention may comprise from
1% to 30%, preferably from 2% to 15%, preferably from
3% to 10% by weight of volatile linear alkanes,
relative to the total weight of said composition.
The term "one or more volatile linear alkane(s)"
is intended to mean, without distinction, "one or more
volatile linear alkane oil(s)".
A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the
invention is liquid at ambient temperature
(approximately 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure
(760 mmHg).
The term "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable
for the invention is intended to mean a cosmetic linear
alkane which is capable of evaporating on contact with
the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature
(25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e.
101 325 Pa), which is liquid at ambient temperature, in
particular having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01
to 15 mg/cm2/min, at ambient temperature (25°C) and
atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate
ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm2/min, at ambient
temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate
ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg/cm2/min, at ambient
temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes"
that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation
rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm2/min, at ambient
temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate
ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm2/min, at ambient
temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes"
that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation
rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm2/min, at ambient
temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The evaporation rate of a volatile alkane in
accordance with the invention (and more generally of a
volatile solvent) may in particular be evaluated by
means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and
more particularly by means of the protocol described
below.
15 g of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent are
placed in a crystallizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) placed
on a balance that is in a chamber of approximately 0.3
m3 with regulated temperature (25°C) and hygrometry (50%
relative humidity).
The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without
stirring, while providing ventilation by means of a fan
(Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm)
placed vertically above the crystallizing dish
containing the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent, the
blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish,
20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish.
The mass of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent
remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at
regular time intervals.
The evaporation profile of the solvent is then
obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product
evaporated (in mg/cm2) as a function of time (in min) .
The evaporation rate is then calculated, which
corresponds to the tangent to the origin of the curve
obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of
volatile solvent evaporated per unit surface area (cm2)
and per unit of time (minute).
According to one preferred embodiment, the
"volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the
invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known
as the saturating vapour pressure), at ambient
temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging
from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure
ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa, at ambient temperature
(25°C) .
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure
ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, at ambient temperature
(25°C).
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes"
that are suitable for the invention have a vapour
pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa, at ambient
temperature (25°C).
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure
ranging from 1 to 200 Pa, at ambient temperature
(25°C) .
Even more preferably, the "volatile linear
alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a
vapour pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa, at ambient
temperature (25°C).
According to one embodiment, a volatile linear
alkane that is suitable for the invention may have a
flashpoint that is in the range of from 30 to 120°C,
and more particularly from 40 to 100°C. The flashpoint
is in particular measured according to standard ISO
3679.
According to one embodiment, an alkane that is
suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear
alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon
atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon
atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14
carbon atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are
suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14
carbon atoms.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the
"volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the
invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above,
ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm2/min at ambient
temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg),
and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
A volatile linear alkane that is suitable for the
invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the
mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the
composition according to the invention comprises at
least one 14C (carbon-14) carbon isotope. In particular,
the 14C isotope may be present in a 14C/12C ratio of
greater than or equal to 1x10-16, preferably greater
than or equal to 1x10-15, more preferably greater than
or equal to 7.5x10-14, and better still greater than or
equal to 1.5x10-13. Preferably, the 14C/12C ratio ranges
from 6x10-13 to 1.2x10-12.
The amount of 14C isotopes in the volatile linear
alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be
determined by methods known to those skilled in the
art, such as the Libby counting method, liquid
scintillation spectrometry or accelerator mass
spectrometry.
Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in
several steps, from a plant starting material such as
an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
As examples of alkanes that are suitable for the
invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described
in patent applications WO 2007/068371 or WO 2008/155059
by the company Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes
differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are
obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves
obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
By way of example of linear alkanes that are
suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-
heptane (C7) , n-octane (C8) , n-nonane (C9) , n-decane
(C10) , n-undecane (C11) , n-dodecane (C12) , n-tridecane
(C13) and n-tetradecane (C14) , and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, the volatile
linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-
dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures
thereof.
According to one preferred embodiment, mention may
be made of mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-
tridecane (C13) , obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of
application WO 2008/155059 by the company Cognis.
Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-
tetradecane (C14) , sold by Sasol under the references,
respectively, Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also
mixtures thereof.
The volatile linear alkane may be used alone.
Alternatively or preferentially, a mixture of at
least two different volatile linear alkanes, differing
from one another by a carbon number n of at least 1, in
particular differing from one another by a carbon
number of 1 or 2, may be used.
According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at
least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising
from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from one
another by a carbon number of at least 1 is used. By
way of examples, mention may in particular be made of
mixtures of C10/C11, C11/C12 or C12/C13 volatile linear
alkanes.
According to another embodiment, a mixture of at
least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising
from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from one
another by a carbon number of at least 2 is used. By
way of examples, mention may in particular be made of
mixtures of C10/C12 or C12/C14 volatile linear alkanes,
for an even carbon number n, and the C11/C13 mixture for
an odd carbon number n.
According to one preferred embodiment, a mixture
of at least two different volatile linear alkanes
comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing
from one another by a carbon number of at least 2, and
in particular a mixture of C11/C13 volatile linear
alkanes or a mixture of C12/C14 volatile linear alkanes,
is used.
Other mixtures combining more than 2 volatile
linear alkanes according to the invention, for instance
a mixture of at least 3 different volatile linear
alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms and
differing from one another by a carbon number of at
least 1, also form part of the invention, but mixtures
of 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention
are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear
alkanes preferably representing more than 95%, and
better still more than 99%, by weight of the total
content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the
volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon
number is predominant in the mixture.
According to another embodiment of the invention,
a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the
volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number
is predominant in the mixture is used.
By way of examples of mixtures that are suitable
for the invention, mention may in particular be made of
the following mixtures:
from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55%
to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60% to
75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane, with
n ranging from 7 to 14,
from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20%
to 45% by weight, preferably from 24% to 40% by
weight, of Cn+X volatile linear alkane, with x
greater than or equal to 1, preferably x=l or
x=2, with n+x between 8 and 14,
relative to the total weight of the alkanes in
said mixture.
In particular, said mixture of alkanes according
to the invention contains:
less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1%
by weight of branched hydrocarbons,
and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less
than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons,
and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less
than 1% by weight and preferentially less than
0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in
the mixture.
More particularly, a volatile linear alkane that
is suitable for the invention may be used in the form
of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
In particular, use will be made of a mixture of
volatile linear alkanes comprising:
- from 55% to 8 0% by weight, preferably from 60%
to 75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane
(n-undecane),
- from 2 0% to 45% by weight, preferably from 24%
to 40% by weight of C13 volatile linear alkane
(n-tridecane)
relative to the total weight of the alkanes in
said mixture.
According to one particular embodiment, the
mixture of alkanes is an n-undecane/n-tridecane
mixture. In particular, such a mixture can be obtained
according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059.
According to another particular embodiment, the
n-dodecane sold under the reference Parafol 12-97 by
Sasol is used.
According to another particular embodiment, the
n-tetradecane sold under the reference Parafol 14-97 by
Sasol is used.
According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of
n-dodecane and of n-tetradecane is used.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention, the composition may comprise less than 15%
by weight, or even less than 10% by weight, or even
less than 5% by weight, or even may be devoid, of
cyclic silicone oil.
The C7-C14 volatile linear alkane(s) present in the
composition make(s) it possible to obtain a water-in-
oil emulsion which can be worked for a long time during
application, despite a content of pulverulent materials
(for example: pigments, fillers) of greater than 10%,
or even greater than 20%, by weight, relative to the
total weight of said composition.
The C7-C14 volatile linear alkane(s) present in the
composition also make(s) it possible, surprisingly, to
fluidify the composition containing the emulsifying
silicone elastomer, even with a very high level of
aqueous phase.
The composition according to the invention also
comprises at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer.
SILICONE ELASTOMERS
Emulsifying silicone elastomers
The emulsifying silicone elastomer makes it
possible to obtain a water-in-oil emulsion according to
the invention with good stability. Its combination with
the volatile linear alkane makes it possible to obtain
a texture which is both very fluid and very comfortable
on application. It also provides a very soft and
matting feel after application. It also improves the
application properties of the composition according to
the invention.
The term "emulsifying silicone elastomer" is
intended to mean a silicone elastomer comprising at
least one hydrophilic chain.
The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen
from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and
polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures
thereof.
Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers
The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a
crosslinked organopolysiloxane that can be obtained by
crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane
containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and
of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically
unsaturated groups.
Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked
organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition
reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at
least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1)
of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the
presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for
example, in patents US 5 236 986 and US 5 412 004.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be
obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular
polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogeno-
polysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in
the presence of a platinum catalyst.
The organic groups bonded to silicon atoms of the
compound (Al) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to
18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl,
octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or
stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenyl-
ethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl
groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl
groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent
hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a
carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
Compound (Al) may thus be chosen from
methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy
end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-
methylhydrogenosiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end
groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane
copolymers, and copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-
methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethy1siloxane containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (C1) is the crosslinking reaction
catalyst, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid,
chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic
acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-
diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a
support.
Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone
elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in
particular polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl
groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer
according to the invention is preferably mixed with at
least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil
so as to form a gel. In these gels, the
polyoxyalkylenated elastomer can be in the form of non-
spherical particles.
Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are in particular
described in patents US 5 236 986, US 5 412 004,
US 5 837 793 and US 5 811 487.
Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers that may be
used include those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20,
KSG-30, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310,
KSG-320, KSG-330, KSG-340 and X-226146 by the company
Shin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow
Corning.
According to one preferred embodiment, the
polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer sold under the
name KSG-210 by the company Shin-Etsu will be used.
The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be
chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers
The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is a
crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane that can be
obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of
diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen
bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds
having ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular
in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Preferably, the crosslinked elastomeric
organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition
reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at
least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B)
of glycerolated compounds having at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the
presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be
obtained by reaction of a polyglycerolated compound
containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of
methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy
end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A) is the base reactant for the
formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane and the
crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of
compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of the
catalyst (C).
Compound (A) is in particular an
organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogen atoms
bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in
particular a linear chain or branched chain structure
or a cyclic structure.
Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging
from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, in particular so as to
have good miscibility with compound (B).
The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of
compound (A) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to
18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl,
octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or
stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-
phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl;
aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted
aryl groups such as phenylethy1; and substituted
monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy
group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl,
phenyl and lauryl groups.
Compound (A) can thus be chosen from
methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy
end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-methyl-
hydrogenosiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end
groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic
copolymers, and copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-methyl-
hydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound
corresponding to formula (B') below:
CmH2m-1-O- [Gly] n-CmH2m-1 (B')
in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is
an integer ranging from 2 to 2 00, preferably ranging
from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50,
preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to
10, and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in
particular equal to 3; Gly denotes:
-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O-
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic
groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number
of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule
of compound (A) is at least 4.
It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in
an amount such that the molecular ratio between the
total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms
in compound (A) and the total amount of all the
ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is
within the range of from 1/1 to 20/1.
Compound (C) is the crosslinking reaction
catalyst, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid,
chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic
acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-
diketone complexes, platinum black, or platinum on a
support.
The catalyst (C) is preferably added at from 0.1
to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100
parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts
by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according
to the invention is generally mixed with at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil so as to
form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated
elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical
particles.
Such elastomers are in particular described in
patent application WO 2004/024798.
As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, mention
may be made of those sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-
810, KSG-820, KSG-830 and KSG-840 by the company Shin-
Etsu.
The emulsifying silicone elastomer(s) is (are)
present in the composition of the invention in a
content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, in particular from
0.2% to 10%, and preferably from 0.5% to 5%, by weight,
relative to the total weight of said composition.
In addition to the emulsifying elastomers, the
composition according to the invention may comprise
non-emulsifying elastomers.
Additional non-emulsifying elastomers
The term "non-emulsifying" silicone elastomers
defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing a
hydrophilic chain, such as polyoxyalkylene or
polyglycerolated chains.
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is an
elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane that can be
obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of
diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen
bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane
containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to
silicon, in particular in the presence of a platinum
catalyst; or by a dehydrogenation crosslinking
condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane
containing hydroxyl end groups and a
diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen
bonded to silicon, in particular in the presence of an
organotin; or by a crosslinking condensation reaction
of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end
groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by
thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, in
particular in the presence of an organoperoxide
catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via
high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet
rays or an electron beam.
Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked
organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition
reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at
least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2)
of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two
ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, in
particular in the presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst,
as described, for example, in patent application
EP-A-295886.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be
obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of
methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy
end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A2) is the base reactant for the
formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the
crosslinking is performed by an addition reaction of
compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence of the
catalyst (C2).
Compound (A2) is advantageously a
diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for
example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group
may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups.
These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any
position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are
preferably located at the ends of the
organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane
(A2) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or
networked structure, but the linear-chain structure is
preferred. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging
from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably,
compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100
centistokes at 25°C.
The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be chosen from
methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethyl-
siloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethyl-
siloxane-methylphenylsiloxane containing dimethylvinyl-
siloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-
diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing
dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, copolymers of dimethyl-
siloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy
end groups, copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-methyl-
phenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane containing
trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoro-
propyl)polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end
groups, and copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-methyl-
(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane containing dimethyl-
vinylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (B2) is in particular an
organopolysiloxane containing at least 2 hydrogens
bonded to silicon in each molecule and is thus the
crosslinking agent for compound (A2).
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic
groups per molecule of compound (A2) and the number of
hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon per molecule of
compound (B2) is at least 4.
Compound (B2) may be in any molecular structure,
in particular of linear-chain or branched-chain
structure, or cyclic structure.
Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging
from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, in particular so as to
have good miscibility with compound (A).
It is advantageous for compound (B2) to be added
in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the
total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon in
compound (B2) and the total amount of all the
ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (A2) is
within the range of from 1/1 to 20/1.
Compound (B2) may be chosen from methylhydrogeno-
polysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups,
copolymers of dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane
containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethyl-
siloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.
Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction
catalyst, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid,
chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic
acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-
diketone complexes, platinum black, or platinum on a
support.
The catalyst (C2) is preferably added at from 0.1
to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100
parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts
by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and
(B2).
Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in
the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above,
for instance alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl,
propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such
as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-
trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or
xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and
substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as
an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto
group.
The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer according
to the invention can be mixed with at least one
hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil so as to
form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying
elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.
Non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used
include those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-
16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-105 and
USG-106 by the company Shin-Etsu, DC9040, DC9041,
DC9509, DC9505, DC9506, DC5930, DC9350, DC9045 and
DC9043 by the company Dow Corning, Gransil by the
company Grant Industries, and SFE 839 by the company
General Electric.
According to one particular embodiment, the non-
emulsifying elastomer sold under the name KSG-16 by the
company Shin-Etsu is used.
The non-emulsifying elastomer(s) may be present in
a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition, preferably
ranging from 0.2% to 10% by weight, and more
preferentially ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention, the composition comprises at least one poly-
oxyalkylenated silicone elastomer.
According to one particular embodiment, the
composition comprises at least one polyoxyalkylenated
silicone elastomer and at least one non-emulsifying
silicone elastomer.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention, the composition also comprises at least 10%
by weight of pulverulent materials, relative to the
total weight of said composition.
PULVERULENT MATERIALS
The term "pulverulent materials" is intended to mean
any particles of dyestuff and/or filler type, as
defined hereinafter.
In particular, the composition comprises at least
one pulverulent material chosen from pigments,
pearlescent agents and fillers, and mixtures thereof,
in particular pigments.
The pulverulent materials are present in the
composition in a content ranging from 10% to 50% by
weight, in particular from 15% to 40% by weight, and
especially from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the
total weight of said composition.
Said pulverulent materials are dispersed in a
homogeneous and stabilized form.
According to one embodiment, the composition of
the invention comprises at least one filler.
FILLERS
A composition in accordance with the invention may also
comprise at least one filler of organic or inorganic
nature.
The term "filler" should be understood to mean
colourless or white solid particles of any shape which
are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the
medium of the composition. They are inorganic or
organic in nature and make it possible to confer
softness and mattness on the composition and a uniform
makeup result.
The fillers may be present in the emulsion in a
content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the emulsion, preferably 2% to 10%.
The fillers used in the compositions according to
the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or
spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other
intermediate form between these defined forms.
The fillers according to the invention may be
uncoated or surface-coated, and in particular they may
be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro
derivatives or any other substance that promotes the
dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the
composition.
Among the inorganic fillers that can be used in
the compositions according to the invention, mention
may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl
siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and
magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron
nitride, hollow silica microspheres (silica beads from
Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based
fillers such as Aerosil 200 or Aerosil 300; Sunsphere
H-33 and Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen
sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of
titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon
Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.
Among the organic fillers that can be used in the
compositions according to the invention mention may be
made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem),
poly-ß-alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetra-
fluoroethylene (Teflon®) powders, lauroyllysine,
starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow
polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel
Industrie) , metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic
acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably
from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate,
magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate,
magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 2 00 (Chemdal
Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from
Toshiba, for example), polyurethane powders, in
particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane
comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising
trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexa-
methylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer
sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic
Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki, carnauba
microwaxes, such as the products sold under the name
MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes
of synthetic wax, such as the products sold under the
name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders,
microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and
of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names
MicroCare 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders,
microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and
of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the
name MicroCare 325 by the company Micro Powders,
polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the
names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the
company Micro Powders; fibres of synthetic or natural
and inorganic or organic origin. They may be short or
long, individual or organised, for example twisted, and
hollow or solid. They can have any shape and can in
particular be circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal
or octagonal) in cross section, according to the
specific application envisaged. In particular, their
ends are blunted and/or polished to prevent injury. The
fibres have a length ranging from 1 µm to 10 mm,
preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm, and better still from
0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their cross section can be included
within a circle having a diameter ranging from 2 nm to
500 µm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 µm, and
better still from 1 µm to 50 µm. As fibres that can be
used in the compositions according to the invention,
mention may be made of non-rigid fibres such as
polyamide (Nylon®) fibres or rigid fibres such as
polyimide-amide fibres, for instance those sold under
the names Kermel® and Kermel Tech® by the company
Rhodia, or poly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid)
fibres, sold in particular under the name Kevlar® by the
company Du Pont de Nemours;
and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the composition of
the invention comprises at least one pulverulent
dyestuff, in particular at least one pigment.
PULVERULENT DYESTUFFS
The pulverulent dyestuffs may be present in a
proportion of from 3% to 3 0% by weight, especially from
8% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 10% to 15%
by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic
composition.
The pulverulent dyestuffs are in particular chosen
from organic or inorganic pulverulent dyestuffs, in
particular of pigment or pearlescent agent type,
materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures
thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, the
pulverulent dyestuffs are surface-treated with a
hydrophobic agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent can
be chosen from silicones, for instance methicones,
dimethicones or perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, for
instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance
aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of
hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl
phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes,
perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene
oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl
perfluoropolyether groups, and amino acids; N-acylamino
acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl
triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
Pigments
The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white
or coloured, mineral or organic particles which are
insoluble in an aqueous solution, and which are
intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
As mineral pigments that can be used in the
invention, mention may be made of titanium oxides,
zirconium oxides or cerium oxides, and also zinc
oxides, iron oxides or chromium oxides, ferric blue,
manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium
hydrate.
Iron oxide or titanium dioxide pigments are
preferably used.
The pigment may be a pigment having a structure
which may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron
oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is
sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or
JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts and has a
contrast ratio in the region of 30.
The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a
structure which may be, for example, of the type such
as silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An
example of a pigment having this structure is the
product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference
PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being constituted of
silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
Among the organic pigments that can be used in the
invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C
pigments, lakes based on cochineal carmine, on barium,
strontium, calcium or aluminium, or else the
diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPPs) described in documents
EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and
WO-A-96/08537.
Other pigments that can also be used include
composite pigments as described in application EP 1 545
437. These composite pigments may be composed in
particular of particles comprising an inorganic core
coated at least partially with an organic pigment and
at least one binder which binds the organic pigments to
the core.
The inorganic core may be made of a material
chosen from the nonlimiting list comprising metal salts
and metal oxides, in particular titanium oxide,
zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide,
ferric blue oxide, aluminium oxide and chromium oxide,
aluminas, glasses, ceramics, graphite, silicas,
silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and
borosilicates, synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, the inorganic
core is a titanium oxide.
The organic dyestuff may comprise, for example,
organic pigments which can be chosen from the compounds
below and mixtures thereof:
cochineal carmine,
organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone,
indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane
or fluorane dyes, insoluble organic sodium, potassium,
calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or
titanium salts or organic lakes of acid dyes such as
azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene,
quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, it being
possible for these dyes to comprise at least one
carboxylic or sulphonic acid group.
According to one particular embodiment, the D&C
Red No. 7 organic pigment is used.
According to another embodiment, the D&C Red No.
2 8 organic pigment is used.
As examples of composite pigments that can be used
according to the invention, alone or as a mixture,
mention may in particular be made of:
- titanium dioxide (CI77891), FD&C Blue
Aluminium lake (CI42090) and polymethyl-
hydrogensiloxane (58.1/40.7/1.2),
- titanium dioxide (CI77891), D&C Red No. 7
(CI15850) and polymethylhydrogensiloxane
(65.8/32.9/1.3) ,
- titanium dioxide (CI77891), D&C Red No. 28
(CI45410) and polymethylhydrogensiloxane
(65.8/32.9/1.3),
- titanium dioxide (CI77891), FD&C Yellow 5
Aluminium lake (CI191140) and polymethyl-
hydrogensiloxane (65.8/32.9/1.3).
Advantageously, the pigments can be present in a
hydrophobic coated form in the emulsion according to
the invention. They are more particularly pigments that
have been surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent in
order to render them compatible with the fatty phase of
the emulsion, in particular in order for them to have
good wetability with the oils of the fatty phase. Thus,
the treated pigments are well dispersed in the fatty
phase.
The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from
silicones, such as methicones, dimethicones or
perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids, such as stearic
acid; metal soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate or the
aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate,
perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes,
perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene
oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl
perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids; N-acylamino
acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl
triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group
containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-
ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl,
stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds
can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc,
sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can, for
example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term "alkyl" mentioned in the abovementioned
compounds denotes in particular an alkyl group
containing from 1 to 3 0 carbon atoms, preferably
containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Hydrophobically treated pigments are in particular
described in application EP-A-1086683.
Pearlescent agents
The term "pearlescent agents" should be understood to
mean coloured particles of any shape, which may or may
not be iridescent, produced in particular by certain
shellfish in their shells or else synthesized, which
exhibit a colour effect by optical interference.
The pearlescent agents can be chosen from
pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with
an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth
oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide,
titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and also
pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They
may also be mica particles at the surface of which at
least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of
organic dyestuffs are superposed.
By way of example of pearlescent agents, mention
may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium
oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with
bismuth oxychloride.
Materials with an optical effect
The cosmetic composition according to the invention may
also contain at least one material with a specific
optical effect.
This effect is different from a simple
conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and
stabilized effect, such as that produced by
conventional dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic
pigments. For the purpose of the invention, the term
"stabilized" means devoid of an effect of variability
of the colour with the angle of observation or else in
response to a change in temperature.
For example, this material can be chosen from
particles with a metallic glint, goniochromatic
colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic
agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, in
particular interference fibres. Of course, these
various materials can be combined so as to provide the
simultaneous display of two effects, or even of a novel
effect in accordance with the invention.
The particles with a metallic glint which can be
used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
- particles of at least one metal and/or of at
least one metal derivative,
particles comprising an organic or inorganic
substrate, made of one material or many materials, at
least partially coated with at least one layer with a
metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at
least one metal derivative, and
- mixtures of said particles.
Among the metals that may be present in said
particles, mention may, for example, be made of Ag, Au,
Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn,
Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu,
Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for
example, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds
derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides,
chlorides and sulphides.
The goniochromatic colouring agent can be chosen,
for example, from interference multilayer structures
and liquid crystal colouring agents.
GALENICS
In addition to the compounds described above, the
water-in-oil emulsion according to the invention
comprises an aqueous phase dispersed in a liquid fatty
phase, and comprises at least one physiologically
acceptable medium.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention, the composition of the invention has an
aqueous phase to liquid fatty phase ratio of greater
than 1, preferably greater than 1.5, preferably greater
than 2.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is
intended to denote a medium that is particularly
suitable for the application of a composition of the
invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin
and the lips.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally
adapted to the nature of the substrate onto which the
composition is to be applied, and also to the way in
which the composition is to be packaged.
AQUEOUS PHASE
A composition according to the invention comprises
at least one aqueous phase, preferably in a content
ranging from 10% to 80%, preferably from 3 0% to 70%,
more preferentially between 40% and 60% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase comprises water and/or at least
one water-soluble solvent.
The water may be a floral water such as cornflower
water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water,
Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring
water.
The term "water-soluble solvent" denotes, in the
present invention, a compound that is liquid at ambient
temperature and water-miscible (water-miscibility
greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric
pressure).
The water-soluble solvent(s) suitable for the
invention may be chosen from C1-8, and in particular C1-
5, monoalcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol,
tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols as described
previously, and mixtures thereof. Also most
particularly suitable for the invention are ethanol and
isopropanol, and preferably ethanol.
A composition of the invention may also comprise
at least one salt, for example sodium chloride,
magnesium chloride and magnesium sulphate.
A composition of the invention may comprise from
0.05% to 1.5%, in particular from 0.1% to 10%, and more
particularly from 0.15% to 0.8% by weight of salts,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-
soluble or water-dispersible compound that is
compatible with an aqueous phase, such as gelling
agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants,
and mixtures thereof.
LIQUID FATTY PHASE
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the
present invention comprises at least one liquid fatty
phase comprising at least one or more volatile linear
alkanes as defined above and, optionally, at least one
additional oil.
A composition of the invention may comprise a
liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 10% to
80%, in particular from 15% to 60%, and more
particularly from 15% to 40% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the composition.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention, the composition of the invention will have
an aqueous phase to liquid fatty phase ratio of greater
than 1, preferably greater than 1.5, preferably greater
than 2.
A compositing according to the invention may
comprise at least one additional oil, chosen from
volatile and non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon-based,
silicone or fluoro type. The oils may be of animal,
plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "oil" is intended to mean any fatty
substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature
(20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
The term "volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil
(or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on
contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient
temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil
is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at ambient
temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapour
pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric
pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure
ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg),
and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01
to 100 mmHg), and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to
1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
In addition, the volatile oil generally has a
boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure,
ranging from 150°C to 260°C, and preferably ranging
from 170°C to 250°C.
Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 5%
to 4 0% by weight, preferably from 7% to 3 0% by weight,
and preferentially from 10% to 20% by weight of
volatile oil(s), relative to the total weight of the
composition.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" is intended to
mean an oil formed essentially of, or even constituted
of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and, optionally, oxygen
and nitrogen atoms, and not containing a silicon or
fluorine atom; it can contain ester, ether, amine and
amide groups.
The term "silicone oil" is intended to mean an oil
containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular
containing Si-0 groups.
The term "fluoro oil" is intended to mean an oil
containing at least one fluorine atom.
Additional volatile oils
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil that can be used in
the invention can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils
having a flashpoint ranging from 40°C to 102°C,
preferably ranging from 40°C to 55°C, and
preferentially ranging from 40°C to 50°C.
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may be
made of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from
8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in
particular branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16
isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane,
isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils
sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl,
branched C8-C16 esters, such as isohexyl neopentanoate,
and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile
hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile
hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon
atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from
isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is in
particular isododecane.
The volatile silicone oil that can be used in the
invention can be chosen from silicone oils having a
flashpoint ranging from 40°C to 102°C, preferably
having a flashpoint of greater than 55°C and less than
or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C
to 95°C.
As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of
linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7
silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising
alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon
atoms. As examples of a volatile silicone oil, mention
may in particular be made of octamethylcyclotetra-
siloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl-
cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, hepta-
methyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octa-
methyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodeca-
methylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
As volatile fluoro oils, mention may be made of
nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, deca-
fluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoro-
pentane, and mixtures thereof.
The additional volatile oil may be present in a
content ranging from 5% to 3 0% by weight, relative to
the total weight of the emulsion, preferably ranging
from 8% to 20% by weight, and preferentially ranging
from 10% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight
of the composition. The fatty phase of the emulsion
according to the invention may also comprise at least
one non-volatile oil.
Non-volatile oils
This non-volatile oil or a mixtures thereof may be
present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and
preferably ranging from 2% to 2 0% by weight.
The non-volatile oil may be chosen from carbon-
based, hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone oils of
mineral, animal, plant or synthetic origin, and
mixtures thereof, in so far as they are compatible with
the use envisaged.
Mention may be made of non-volatile hydrocarbon-
based oils such as liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum
jelly, isoeicosane, soybean oil, perhydrosqualene,
sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grapeseed
oil, sesame oil, maize oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil,
sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil,
avocado oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or cereal germ oil;
esters of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid
or of stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl
myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl
laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate,
2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate,
2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or
lactate, di(2-ethylhexyl)succinate, diisostearyl
malate, glyceryl triisostearate or diglyceryl triiso-
stearate; higher fatty acids, such as myristic acid,
palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid,
linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
higher fatty alcohols, such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol
or oleyl alcohol, linoleyl or linolenyl alcohol,
isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol.
As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made
of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), which are optionally
phenylated, such as phenyl trimethicones, or optionally
substituted with aliphatic and/or aromatic groups or
with functional groups, such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or
amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids,
fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures
thereof.
According to one particular embodiment, isononyl
isononanoate will be used.
ADDITIONAL SURFACTANTS
A composition according to the invention comprises
an emulsifying silicone elastomer and, optionally, one
or more additional surfactant(s) suitable for W/O
emulsions, in particular chosen from amphoteric,
anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone
or as mixtures.
The surfactants are generally present in the
composition in a content that can range from 0.5% to
15% by weight, in particular from 1.0% to 5% by weight,
relative to the total weight of the composition.
By way of example, the silicone surfactant(s) may
be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by
weight, in particular from 1% to 5% by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
According to another particular embodiment, the
non-silicone surfactant(s) may be present in a content
ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from
0.5% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of
the composition.
For the W/O emulsions, hydrocarbon-based or
silicone surfactants may in particular be used.
As hydrocarbon-based surfactants, mention may be
made, for example, of polyesters of polyols, such as
PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, sold under the reference
Arlacel P 135 by the company Uniqema, and polyglyceryl-
2 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference
Dehymuls PGPH by Cognis.
As silicone surfactants, mention may, for example,
be made of alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the
lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow
Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow
Corning, and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under
the name Abil EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt, or the
polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone
copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil
WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt.
One or more coemulsifiers may also be added
thereto. Advantageously, the coemulsifier may be chosen
from the group comprising polyol alkyl esters. As
polyol alkyl esters, mention may in particular be made
of esters of glycerol and/or of sorbitan, for example
the polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate sold under the name
Lameform TGI by the company Cognis, polyglyceryl-4
isostearate, such as the product sold under the name
Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan
isostearate, such as the product sold under the name
Arlacel 987 by the company ICI, glycerol sorbitan
isostearate, such as the product sold under the name
Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
According to one particularly preferred
embodiment, an emulsion according to the invention, in
particular a W/O emulsion comprising a silicone oily
phase, comprises at least one silicone surfactant more
particularly chosen from dimethicone copolyols.
The presence of a dimethicone copolyol promotes
in particular the stabilization of the emulsion
according to the invention.
A dimethicone copolyol that can be used according
to the invention is an oxypropylenated and/or
oxyethylenated polydimethylmethylsiloxane.
As dimethicone copolyol, use may be made of those
corresponding to the following formula (II):

in which:
- R1, R2 and R3, independently of one another, represent
a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a -(CH2)x-(OCH2CH2)y-
(OCH2CH2CH2)Z-OR4 radical, at least one R1, R2 or R3
radical not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen,
a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-C4 acyl radical;
- A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
- B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A
and B are not equal to zero at the same time;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
- y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and
- z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
According to one preferred embodiment of the
invention, in the compound of formula (II), R1 = R3 =
methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6,
and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R4 is in
particular a hydrogen.
By way of examples of compounds of formula (II),
mention may be made of the compounds of formula (III):

in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is
an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer
ranging from 10 to 20.
By way of examples of silicone compounds of
formula (II), mention may also be made of the compounds
of formula (IV):
HO- (OCH2CH2)y- (CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A-- (CH2)3- (OCH2CH2)y-OH (IV)
in which A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
Dimethicone copolyols that may be used also
include those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-
14 6, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 by the company Dow Corning;
and KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017 and KF-6028 by
the company Shin-Etsu.
The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695
are compounds of formula (III) in which, respectively,
A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is
12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
According to one particular embodiment, the
silicone surfactant may be PEG-9
polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, sold in particular
by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KF-6028,
PEG-10 dimethicone, sold in particular by Shin-Etsu
under the reference KF-6017, and mixtures thereof.
The dimethicone copolyol may be present in the
composition according to the invention in a content
ranging from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging
from 1.0% to 3% by weight.
According to one particular embodiment of the
invention the composition comprises, in addition to the
emulsifying silicone elastomer, at least one silicone
surfactant and at least one hydrocarbon-based
surfactant.
Preferably, said silicone surfactant is chosen
from dimethicone copolyols and said hydrocarbon-based
surfactant is chosen from polyol alkyl esters.
Cosmetic adjuvants
The compositions of the invention may also contain
one or more of the adjuvants that are customary in the
cosmetics and dermatological fields, such as
moisturizing agents; emollients; hydrophilic or
lipophilic active agents; free-radical scavengers;
sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives;
basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; hydrophilic
gelling agents; film-forming agents, in particular
film-forming polymers (for compositions in a sustained
direction), organic or physiological sunscreens, water-
soluble or fat-soluble dyes; and mixtures thereof. The
amounts of these various adjuvants are those
conventionally used in foundations.
The composition of the invention may thus also
comprise at least one film-forming agent in the aqueous
phase and/or in the oily phase in order to reinforce
the staying power of the composition.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care
to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the
composition according to the invention in such a way
that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached
to the composition in accordance with the invention are
not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by
the envisaged addition.
These adjuvants are generally present in the
composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by
weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative
to the total weight of said composition.
According to one particular embodiment, the
composition of the invention does not comprise a
gelling agent and/or a structuring agent.
The invention is illustrated in the examples
presented hereinafter by way of illustration and
without implied limitation of the field of the
invention:
Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the
examples below are expressed as % by weight, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
EXAMPLES
Example 1: Example of a foundation according to
the invention and comparative example
(1) KSG 210 from Shin-Etsu
* as prepared according to application WO 2008/155059
(2) KF6017 from Shin-Etsu
(3) NAI pigments from Miyoshi
(4) Mibrid SAS TTO-S3 pigment from Miyoshi
Phase Al is obtained by diluting the silicone
elastomer in the dimethicone. The pigments are then
ground in the oils of phase A2 and added to phase Al.
The ingredients of aqueous phase B are mixed and phase
B is then poured into phase A so as to form the
emulsion.
The two formulations have an aqueous phase to
liquid fatty phase ratio of 50.5/22.8.
The formulation according to the invention is very
fluid, whereas the comparative example is very thick.
The foundation according to the invention slides
better, can be applied more easily, and can be worked
for a longer period of time than the comparative
example.
(1) KSG 210 from Shin-Etsu
(2) KSG 16 from Shin-Etsu
* as prepared according to application WO 2008/155059
(3) KF6017 from Shin-Etsu
(4) NAI pigments from Miyoshi
(5) Mibrid SAS TTO-S3 pigment from Miyoshi
Phase Al is obtained by diluting the elastomers
in the dimethicone. The pigments are then ground in the
oils of phase A2 and added to phase Al. The ingredients
of aqueous phase B are mixed and phase B is then poured
into phase A so as to form the emulsion.
The aqueous phase to liquid fatty phase ratio of
this formulation is 46.5/21.5.
The resulting foundation is fluid and stable, with
a good matting effect, a very soft feel and good
staying power.
Example 3: Foundation example
(1) KSG 210 from Shin-Etsu
* as prepared according to application WO 2008/155059
(2) KF6017 from Shin-Etsu
(3) NAI pigments from Miyoshi
Phase Al is obtained by diluting the elastomer in
the dimethicone. The pigments are then ground in the
oils of phase A2 and added to phase Al. The ingredients
of aqueous phase B are mixed and phase B is then poured
into phase A so as to form the emulsion.
The resulting foundation is fluid and stable, with
a satin and luminous finish, a very soft feel and good
staying power.
The aqueous phase to liquid fatty phase ratio of
this formulation is 56/22.8.
Example 4: foundation example
(1) KSG 210 from Shin-Etsu
* as prepared according to application WO 2008/155059
(2) KF6017 from Shin-Etsu
(3) NAI pigments from Miyoshi
The composition is prepared as indicated in
Example 3.
The foundation is fluid and stable, with a very
soft feel and good staying power.
The aqueous phase to liquid fatty phase ratio of
this formulation is 56/22.8.
(1) KSG 210 from Shin-Etsu
(2) Abil EM90 from Evonik Goldschmidt
* as prepared according to application WO
2008/155059
(3) KF6017 from Shin-Etsu
(4) NAI pigments from Miyoshi
Phase Al is obtained by diluting the silicone
elastomer, when present (invention), in the
dimethicone. The pigments are then ground in the oils
of phase A2 and added to phase Al. The ingredients of
aqueous phase B are mixed and phase B is then poured
into phase A so as to form the emulsion.
Stability study: The macroscopic and microscopic
appearance of the composition (quality of the emulsion)
is evaluated 24 hours after the preparation of the
composition, and also after 2 months of storage.
The composition according to the invention is
fluid and very stable and gives a unifying makeup
result. The comparative example is very fluid and the
emulsion has a very poor stability: a considerable
release of oil appears after a few days.
These results confirm that the use of an
emulsifying silicone elastomer according to the
invention (for example: KSG210) in a water-in-oil
emulsion in combination with an, in particular C7-C14,
volatile linear alkane makes it possible to obtain a
fluid and very stable composition, compared with the
use of a non-elastomeric silicone emulsifier, such as
cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone (for
example: Abil EM 90), at an equivalent active material
content, in the same architecture.
we claim:
1. Cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making
up keratin materials, in particular the skin, in
the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in
a physiologically acceptable medium:
(i) at least one or more, in particular
C7-C14, volatile linear alkane(s), and
(ii) at least one emulsifying silicone
elastomer.
2. Cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making
up keratin materials according to Claim 1,
characterized in that it also comprises at least
10% by weight of pulverulent materials, relative
to the total weight of said composition.
3. Cosmetic composition for caring for and/or making
up keratin materials according to Claim 1 or 2,
characterized in that the aqueous phase to liquid
fatty phase ratio is greater than 1, preferably
greater than 1.5, preferably greater than 2.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that said volatile linear
alkane comprises from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, in
particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more
particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the volatile linear
alkane is chosen from n-heptane, n-octane, n-
nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, and
n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the volatile linear
alkane is dodecane.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it comprises at
least two different volatile linear alkanes,
differing from one another by a carbon number n of
at least 1, in particular differing from one
another by a carbon number of 1 or 2.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it comprises a
mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes
comprising:
from 50% to 90% by weight, preferably from 55%
to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60% to
75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane, with
n ranging from 7 to 14,
from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20%
to 45% by weight, preferably from 24% to 40% by
weight, of Cn+X volatile linear alkane, with x
greater than or equal to 1, preferably x=l or
x=2, with n+x between 8 and 14,
relative to the total weight of the alkanes in
said mixture.
9. Composition according to the preceding claim,
characterized in that it comprises an n-
undecane:n-tridecane (C11/C13) mixture comprising:
- from 55% to 80% by weight, preferably from 60%
to 75% by weight of C11 volatile linear alkane
(n-undecane) ,
- from 20% to 45% by weight, preferably from 24%
to 4 0% by weight of C13 volatile linear alkane
(n-tridecane),
relative to the total weight of the alkanes in
said mixture.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it comprises from 1%
to 3 0%, preferably from 2% to 15%, preferably from
3% to 10% of volatile linear alkanes, by weight,
relative to the total weight of said composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the emulsifying
silicone elastomer(s) is (are) chosen from
polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers and
polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures
thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it also comprises a
non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that the pulverulent
materials are chosen from fillers, pigments and
pearlescent agents, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it also comprises at
least one surfactant chosen from a silicone
surfactant and a polyglycerolated surfactant, and
mixtures thereof.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding
claims, characterized in that it is a foundation.
16. Cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for
keratin materials, in particular the skin,
comprising the application, to said keratin
materials, of at least one composition as defined
in one of Claims 1 to 15.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic
composition for caring for and/or making up keratin
materials, in particular the skin, in the form of a
water-in-oil emulsion comprising, in a physiologically
acceptable medium:
(i) at least one or more, in particular
C7-C14, volatile linear alkane(s), and
(ii) at least one emulsifying silicone
elastomer.