DESC:FIELD
The present disclosure relates to waterless dyed fabrics and a method of their production. Particularly, the present disclosure relates to a chino type fabric and a method for producing the chino type fabric.
DEFINITIONS
As used in the present disclosure, the following terms are generally intended to have the meaning as set forth below, except to the extent that the context in which they are used to indicate otherwise.
Viscose staple fibers (VSF) refer to man-made, bio-degradable fibers that are made from wood pulp and cotton pulp, having the characteristics of cotton fiber.
Spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) refer to the viscose staple fibers that are dyed during the fiber spinning process.
Chino/ drill fabric refers to a cotton fabric wherein a steep twill construction was used. Chino was originally made of 100% cotton; however, nowadays it is also made from cotton-synthetic blends.
Chino type fabric refers to the fabric produced in accordance with the present disclosure, wherein the fabric is made from the yarns of spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and its blend with the raw cotton fibers or recycled cotton fibers (pre or post consumer).
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft is drawn through and inserted over-and-under the warp.
Carded cotton refers to cotton which has been subjected to carding, wherein debris are removed while aligning the cotton fibers so as to make them easier to spin. Without carding, cotton thread would be coarse and extremely fragile.
Sizing refers to a substance that is applied into the yarn mainly to improve the weave ability of warp yarn by making it more resistant to action of weaving i.e. abrasion, friction, tension and flexing. It also maintains good fabric quality by reducing hairiness, weakness and by increasing smoothness, abrasion resistance of yarn.
Lea strength refers to measure of strength of 1 lea yarn, wherein 1 lea is 120 yards and strength is a measure of the steady force necessary to break a material and is measured in pounds.
BACKGROUND
The background information herein below relates to the present disclosure but is not necessarily prior art.
Conventionally, Chino fabrics are made from 100% cotton and are provided with a twill weave. Chino or drill fabrics are conventionally produced by a process which causes a significant amount of pollution. This pollution happens particularly at the time of fiber/fabric dyeing and garment washing. Typically, mineral dyes, chrome dyes, metal complex dyes, pigment dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes or disperse dyes are used to dye the chino fabric leading to the consumption of the high amount of the dye stuff which results in the increased water pollution. The effluent produced from the dyeing process contains free dyes i.e. dyes separated from fabric and organic substances which cause pollution to the environment.
Considering the environmental hazards and increasing consumer demand for more eco-friendly products, there is a room for developing biodegradable products with minimal environmental footprint through various levels of the supply chain, including raw materials, eco-friendlier and economical processes and the like.
Therefore, there is, felt a need to provide an alternative chino type fabric which obviates the drawbacks mentioned herein above or at least provides a useful alternative.
OBJECTS
Some of the objects of the present disclosure, which at least one embodiment herein satisfies, are as follows.
An object of the present disclosure is to ameliorate one or more problems of the prior art or to at least provide a useful alternative.
Another object of the present disclosure is to provide waterless dyed fabrics that have similar aesthetic properties like conventional Chino fabric.
Yet another object of the present disclosure is to provide Chino type fabrics that have improved dry and wet rubbing fastness properties, enhanced light fastness properties and better washing and perspiration fastness properties.
Still another object of the present disclosure is to provide Chino type fabrics that are bleach resistance and have higher shade/color consistency.
Still another object of the present disclosure is to provide a simple and an efficient method for the production of fabrics that have similar aesthetic properties like conventional Chino fabric.
Yet another object of the present disclosure is to provide an eco-friendly method for the production of Chino type fabrics that avoid stock dyeing, thus leading to less water consumption, less power consumption, less gas consumption, less steam consumption, and less effluent liquor generation.
Other objects and advantages of the present disclosure will be more apparent from the following description, which is not intended to limit the scope of the present disclosure.
SUMMARY
The present disclosure relates to waterless dyed fabrics and a method of their production. The waterless dyed Chino type fabrics are made from yarn of spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and raw cotton fibers having a weight ratio in the range of 20:80 to 95:5. The fabric is characterized by having a weight in the range of 200 gsm to 350 gsm, a tensile strength (warp x weft) in the range of 34000 g X 25000 g to 64000 g X 58000 g, and a tear strength (warp weft) in the range of 2600 g X 2200 g to 3700 g X 3200g.
The present disclosure further relates to a method for the production of waterless dyed Chino type fabrics. The method comprises the step of blending spun dyed viscose fibers (SD VSF) with raw cotton fibers in a predetermined ratio at a predetermined temperature for a predetermined time period to obtain homogenous blend of fibers. A yarn is obtained by spinning of the homogenous blend of fibers. The so obtained yarn is subjected to weaving to obtain an unfinished woven fabric and further the unfinished woven fabric is subjected to finishing processes without dyeing process to obtain the waterless dyed Chino type fabrics.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The present disclosure relates to waterless dyed fabrics and a method of their production. Particularly, the present disclosure relates to a chino type fabric and a method for producing the chino type fabric.
Embodiments are provided so as to thoroughly and fully convey the scope of the present disclosure to the person skilled in the art. Numerous details are set forth, relating to specific components, and methods, to provide a complete understanding of embodiments of the present disclosure. It will be apparent to the person skilled in the art that the details provided in the embodiments should not be construed to limit the scope of the present disclosure. In some embodiments, well-known processes, well-known apparatus structures, and well-known techniques are not described in detail.
The terminology used, in the present disclosure, is only for the purpose of explaining a particular embodiment and such terminology shall not be considered to limit the scope of the present disclosure. As used in the present disclosure, the forms "a,” "an," and "the" may be intended to include the plural forms as well, unless the context clearly suggests otherwise. The terms "comprises," "comprising," “including,” and “having,” are open ended transitional phrases and therefore specify the presence of stated features, integers, steps, operations, elements, modules, units and/or components, but do not forbid the presence or addition of one or more other features, integers, steps, operations, elements, components, and/or groups thereof. The particular order of steps disclosed in the method and process of the present disclosure is not to be construed as necessarily requiring their performance as described or illustrated. It is also to be understood that additional or alternative steps may be employed.
Conventional Chino/drill fabrics are made from either 100% cotton or cotton-polyester blends with spandex or without spandex. The Chino fabrics are popular in the fashion industry as it finds application as daily wear, fashion wear, uniform wear and work wear for military, defense and serviceable sectors. Nowadays, the chino fabrics have been used as formal as well as casual wear, extensively by people of all ages, classes and genders. However, the conventional chino fabrics are dyed either via fiber dyeing, yarn dyeing, fabric dyeing or garment dyeing route (stock dyeing method) which is the most polluting manufacturing process, as mineral / chrome/ metal complex/ pigment/ reactive/ vat/ disperse dyes are used to dye the chino/drill fabrics. This leads to high pollution to the environment.
The present disclosure provides waterless dyed fabrics and a method for their production. Particularly, the present disclosure provides chino type fabrics and a method of production of the chino type fabrics by using spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and raw cotton fibers.
In an aspect of the present disclosure, the waterless dyed Chino type fabrics are made from the yarn of spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and the raw cotton fibers having a weight ratio in the range of 20:80 to 95:5, wherein the fabric is characterized by at least having;
• a weight in the range of 200 gsm to 350 gsm;
• a tensile strength (warp x weft) in the range of 34000 X 25000 g to 64000 X 58000 g; and
• a tear strength (warp x weft) in the range of 2600 X 2200 g to 3700 X 3200 g.
In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the fabric is characterized by having;
• a weight in the range of 210 gsm to 300 gsm;
• a tensile strength (warp x weft) in the range of 34000 X 25000 g to 39000 X 31000 g; and
• a tear strength (warp x weft) in the range of 2600 X 2200 g to 2900 X 2400 g.
In accordance with the present disclosure, the yarn of spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and the raw cotton fibers are characterized by having;
• single yarn strength (RKm) in the range of 10 to 16 g/tex;
• elongation % in the range of 4 to 9;
• yarn count (Ne) in the range of 15 to 17 Ne; and
• turns per inch (TPI) in the range of 15 to 17.
In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the yarn is characterized by having;
• single yarn strength (RKm) in the range of 10.07 to 13.38 g/tex;
• elongation % in the range of 6.49 to 7.28;
• yarn count (Ne) in the range of 15.32 to 16.51 Ne; and
• turns per inch (TPI) in the range of 15.49 to 16.13.
In another aspect, the present disclosure provides a method for the production of the waterless dyed chino type fabrics. The method comprises the following steps:
(i) blending spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) with raw cotton fibers in a predetermined ratio at a predetermined temperature for a predetermined time period to obtain a homogeneous blend of fibers;
(ii) spinning the homogeneous blend of fibers to obtain a yarn;
(iii) weaving the yarn to obtain an unfinished woven fabric; and
(iv) subjecting the unfinished woven fabric to finishing processes without dyeing process to obtain the Chino type fabrics.
In accordance with the present disclosure, the predetermined ratio of the SD VSF to the raw cotton fibers (carded cotton) is in the range of 20:80 to 95:5. In an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, the predetermined ratio is 60:40.
The predetermined temperature is in the range of 10 °C to 50 °C. In an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, the predetermined temperature is 30 °C to 35 °C.
The predetermined time period is in the range of 8 hours to 24 hours. In an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, the predetermined time period is 10 hours.
In accordance with the present disclosure, the spinning of fibers is carried out by a spinning technology selected from ring spinning, open end spinning, compact ring spinning, siro compact ring spinning and air jet spinning. In an exemplary embodiment of the present disclosure, the spinning of fibers is carried out by ring spinning.
In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the homogeneous blend of fibers is spinned into 6s to 60s count yarn.
In accordance with the present disclosure, the weaving of yarn is carried out by keeping SD VSF/raw cotton fibers blended yarn as warp and 100% raw cotton fibers with or without spandex as weft by a conventional loom.
In an embodiment of the present disclosure, the ratio of the SD VSF to the raw cotton fibers is optimized by studying the quality of the SD VSF/raw cotton fibers blended yarn.
The finishing processes are selected from singeing, desizing, scouring/bleaching, washing and drying.
The foregoing description of the embodiments has been provided for purposes of illustration and not intended to limit the scope of the present disclosure. Individual components of a particular embodiment are generally not limited to that particular embodiment, but, are interchangeable. Such variations are not to be regarded as a departure from the present disclosure, and all such modifications are considered to be within the scope of the present disclosure.
The present disclosure is further described in light of the following experiments which are set forth for illustration purpose only and not to be construed for limiting the scope of the disclosure. The following experiments can be scaled up to industrial/commercial scale and the results obtained can be extrapolated to industrial scale.
EXPERIMENTAL DETAILS
Experiment 1: Method for the production of a waterless dyed Chino type fabric
Example 1: Method of production of a waterless dyed Chino type fabric with SD VSF/Cotton fibers (60:40)
Spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) (source of fibers: Birla cellulose) were blended and further conditioned with raw cotton fibers (commercially available) in a ratio of 60:40 at 30 °C to 35 °C for 10 hours to obtain a homogenous blend of SD VSF/cotton fibers. Further, the obtained homogenous blend of fibers was subjected to ring spinning to obtain a yarn. The obtained yarn further weaved (twill weaving -3/1 twill) to obtain an unfinished woven fabric. The unfinished woven fabric was subjected to finishing processes without dyeing process to obtain a waterless dyed Chino type fabric.
Example 2: Method of production of a waterless dyed Chino type fabric with SD VSF/Cotton fibers (20:80)
The same method of Example 1 was repeated except the ratio of SD VSF/cotton fibers used was 20:80 to obtain Chino type fabrics in accordance with the present disclosure.
Example 3: Method of production of a waterless dyed Chino type fabric with SD VSF/Cotton fibers (40:60)
The same method of Example 1 was repeated except the ratio of SD VSF/cotton fibers used was 40:60 to obtain Chino type fabrics in accordance with the present disclosure.
Example 4: Method of production of a waterless dyed Chino type fabric with SD VSF/Cotton fibers (80:20)
The same method of Example 1 was repeated except the ratio of SD VSF/cotton fibers used was 80:20 to obtain Chino type fabrics in accordance with the present disclosure.
Experiment 2: Optimization and Characterization studies
Example 1: Optimization of SD VSF/Cotton blend
The Chino type fabrics of various ratios of spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and cotton fibers were prepared according to Example 1 for optimization of SD VSF/Cotton blend ratio. Various characteristics of prepared fabrics were studied with the standard techniques (of industrial fabric manufacturing flow and process) and the results/values obtained are summarized in the following Table 1.
Table 1: Yarn quality-optimization of SD VSF/ raw cotton fibers blend ratio
Fibre
Blend Fibre 1
(shade no.) Fibre 2 Count
(Ne) RKm
(gm/tex) Elongation
% TPI U% Hairiness
H
SD VSF /
COTTON
20/80 SD VSF
(9818)-
20% Carded
Cotton-
80% 15.67 15.21 4.11 15.81 10.2 8.61
SD VSF /
COTTON
40/60 SD
VSF(9818)
-40% Carded
Cotton-
60% 16 13.81 5.21 15.91 9.1 8.31
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 SD VSF
(9818) -
60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 15.534 11.94 7.15 16.02 8.1 8.1
SD VSF /
COTTON
80/20 SD VSF
(9818) -
80% Carded
Cotton-
20% 15.89 10.2 8.25 16.31 7.6 7.8
Table 1 discloses yarn qualities of Chino type fabrics prepared in Example 1 and it was evident that as the SD VSF portion increased, all the parameters were improved, except the yarn strength. Based on the requirements of yarn parameters and optimum as well as uniform color appearance, the warp yarn blend of the SD VSF/ raw cotton fibers was optimized at 60/40 fiber mixing (blending) ratio.
Example 2: Comparison of the yarn quality for various SD VSF shades and blends
Yarns based on various ratios and shades of SD VSF/cotton fibers were prepared in accordance with the present disclosure. The comparative study of the yarn quality for various SD VSF shades and blends was carried out by the standard techniques (of industrial fabric manufacturing flow and process) and the results are represented in Table 2.
Table 2: Comparison of Yarn quality for various SD VSF shades and blends
Fibre
Blend Warp-Fiber 1,
(Shade no.) Weft-Fiber 2 Count
(Ne) RKm
(gm/tex) Elongation % TPI U% Hairiness
H
100%
Cotton CARDED
COTTON CARDED
COTTON 15.70 17.9 5.42 14.26 11 8.84
POLYEST
ER/COTT
ON 65/35 100%
POLYESTE
R 100%
COTTON 15.89 29.53 7.2 14.35 7.3 7.9
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 SD
VSF(2771)
60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 15.69 12.44 6.85 15.74 7.8 7.82
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 (1) SD VSF
4274-60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 15.53 11.94 7.15 16.02 8.1 8.1
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 (2) SD VSF
3404-60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 15.469 13.38 7.04 16.13 8 7.98
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 (3) SD
VSF(1320)
-60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 15.88 12.11 6.72 15.49 8.3 8.27
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 (4) SD
VSF(9818)
-60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 16 12.21 7.11 15.81 8.2 8.17
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 (5) SD
VSF(1405)
-60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 16.51 10.07 6.49 15.59 8.6 8.61
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/40 (6) SD
VSF(1637)
-60% Carded
Cotton-
40% 15.32 12.19 7.28 15.92 7.8 7.83
SD VSF /
COTTON
60/ 40 (7) SD
VSF(1989)
-60% Cotton-
40% 15.75 12.4 6.99 15.99 8.2 8.16
Results of Table 2 illustrates that all the SD VSF/cotton blend of 60/40 ratio showed almost similar yarn quality except single yarn strength i.e. RKm (Resistance per kilometer) and lea strength i.e., CSP as compared to the conventional products of 100% cotton and polyester/cotton 65/35. The RKm was around 35% lower than the RKm of 100% Cotton and around 130% lower than the RKm of polyester/cotton 65/35. This lower strength of the SD VSF/Cotton 60/40 products was due to the lower fiber strength of SD VSF.
Example 3: Sizing of the yarn
Optimization of sizing of the yarn prepared in Example 1 was carried out by adjusting the sizing dosage of additives. This was done in order to increase the strength of the yarn. Table 3 represents the sizing composition of SD VSF/cotton 60/40 blended yarn.
Table 3: Sizing composition
Additives/conditions Sizing dosage
Hydroxylated Starch 100 g/l
Polyethylene based
softener 4 g/l
Water 750 kg
Viscosity in second 6-7
RF Index 5-6
% Add on 6-7
Moisture content after
drying <7%
The SD VSF/Cotton 60/40 blended yarn was sized with the sizing recipe as given in Table 3 to obtain a sized yarn. The sized yarn showed increased RKm of around 16-17 g/tex which has passed the loom requirement of around 14-15 g/tex.
Experiment 3: Comparative studies
Example 1: Comparison of the greige fabric (chino type) of the present disclosure with the commercial greige Chino fabric
The unfinished woven fabric commonly known as greige fabric (Chino type) prepared in Example 1 of the present disclosure was compared with the commercial greige fabric and its blend with Polyester. The results are represented in Table 4 below.
Table 4: Comparison of the greige fabric (chino type) of the present disclosure with the commercial greige Chino fabric
Particulars 100% Cotton (commercial Chino) Polyester/Cotton (blended commercial
Chino) Greige fabric (chino type) of the present disclosure
Warp yarn 16s 100% Cotton 16s Polyester / Cotton 65/35% 16s SD VSF / Cotton 60/40 %
Weft yarn 16s Cotton / Spandex 95/5 % 16s Polyester / Cotton/ Spandex
63/32/5 % 16s Cotton / Spandex 95/5 %
Ends per Inch
(EPI) 70 72 72
Picks per Inch
(PPI) 62 64 62
Weave 3/1 Twill 3/1 Twill 3/1 Twill
Weight /square meter
(GSM) 219 226 222
Fabric Blend Cotton/Spandex 98/2 Polyester/Cotton/Spandex
66/32/2 SD VSF/ Cotton/Spandex
66/32/2
It is evident from the Table 4 that the Greige fabric (chino type) of the present disclosure has almost similar ends per inch, picks per inch, weight/square meter and same weave as that of 100% Cotton commercial Chino and Polyester/Cotton blended commercial Chino.
Twill weave is a kind of weave that repeat on three or more ends and picks and produces diagonal line on the face of fabric. In regular twill, the diagonal line or twill line produces at 45 degree angle with the horizontal. This weave is created through moving the weft yarn over and under several warp yarns alternately which produce a diagonal ribbed pattern on the material’s surface.
In accordance with the present disclosure, 3/1 twill weave was used for weaving the fabric. 3/1 twill weave means, one warp yarn (the vertical yarns) was over three weft yarn (the horizontal yarn) and down for one weft yarn. This means almost 75% warp yarn was covered at the face side of the fabric. Thus, due to 3/1 twill weave with the SD VSF/Cotton 60/40 blend yarn, the fabric of the present disclosure has uniform colour appearance.
Example 2: Comparative study of the method of the present disclosure with the conventional methods
Comparison of method of preparation of Greige fabric of the present disclosure with the greige fabrics prepared by conventional production method was carried out. The results of the comparative study are enlisted in the Table 5 below.
Table 5: Comparative study of the method of the present disclosure with the conventional methods
Particulars Process flow Time for only
dyeing per batch
in hours Time for only
total wet
processing per
batch in hours Remarks
conventional method:
100% Cotton
(Yarn Dyed
Route) Greige yarn - Yarn dyeing –Weaving – Wet Processing (Singeing– Desizing - Scouring – spandex heat setting - Chemical finish –Mechanical finish) 8-10 hours
depending upon
the shade depth 6-8 Single stage
dyeing
conventional method:
100% Cotton
(Fabric Dyed
Route) Greige fabric– Wet Processing (Singeing – Desizing - bleaching –Mercerization – spandex heat setting - cotton Dyeing - Chemical finish – Mechanical finish) 12-14 hours
depending upon
the shade depth 6-8 Single stage
dyeing
conventional method:
Polyester /
Cotton (Fibre
dyed Route) Polyester fibre - fibre dyeing – Spinning - Weaving – Wet
Processing (Singeing – Desizing - bleaching – Mercerization – polyester & spandex heat setting – cotton Dyeing - Chemical finish – Mechanical finish) 6-8 hours for
polyester dyeing
depending upon
the shade depth &
12-14 hours
depending upon
the shade depth 6-8 Double
stage dyeing
conventional method:
Polyester /
Cotton (Yarn
Dyed Route) Greige yarn - Yarn dyeing – Weaving – Wet Processing (Singeing – Desizing - Scouring – polyester & spandex Heat Setting – Chemical finish – Mechanical finish) 14-16 hours for
dyeing depending
upon the shade
depth 6-8 Double
stage dyeing
conventional method:
Polyester /
Cotton (Fabric
Dyed Route) Greige fabric– Wet Processing (Desizing - bleaching –
Mercerization – polyester & spandex
heat setting – polyester dyeing – Drying – singeing - cotton Dyeing - Chemical finish – Mechanical finish) 14-16 hours for
dyeing depending
upon the shade
depth 7-9 Double
stage dyeing
Method of the present disclosure:
SD VSF /
Cotton (No
Dyeing Route) Greige fabric – Wet Processing (Singeing – Desizing - bleaching – spandex Heat Setting – Chemical finish – Mechanical finish) Zero hours 5-7 No Dyeing
Results of Table 5 highlighted that the method of producing the Greige (chino type) fabric in accordance with the present disclosure did not involve the stock dyeing in the SD VSF/Cotton blended products, thereby saving dyeing step with respect to the fiber or the yarn or the fabric resulting in 20-25% lesser wet processing time as compared to the conventional product dyeing processes. Hence, the productivity was increased by at least 3-4 times in comparison with the conventional production methods.
Example 3: Utility comparison for wet processing of the fabric of the present disclosure with the conventional methods
A study was conducted with different textile mills (both batch processing and continuous processing) to understand the benefits of the wet processing utility requirements for conventional fabrics and the fabric prepared in accordance with the present disclosure. The study is summarized in Table 6.
Table 6: Utility comparison for wet processing of the fabric of the present disclosure with the conventional methods
Utility Existing 100%
Cotton product Existing
Polyester/Cotton
55/35 product Innovative SD
VSF / Cotton
60/40 product Remarks
Water consumption
in litre per kg of fabric 80-100 litre 100-120 litre 30-40 litre Around 50 – 80 litre
i.e., 60-70% less water consumption per kg
Power consumption in KW per kg of fabric 0.2 – 0.4 KW 0.3 – 0.4 KW 0.1 - 0.2 KW Around 0.15 – 0.2 KW
i.e., 50-60% less power consumption per kg
Gas consumption in standard cubic meter (SCM) per kg of fabric 0.022-0.024 0.024-0.026 0.011-0.014 Around 0.011 – 0.012 SCM i.e., 45- 50% less gas consumption per kg
Steam consumption in kg per kg of fabric 14-16 18-20 4-5 Around 10 – 15 kg
i.e., 60-85% less steam consumption per kg
Effluent liquor generation in litre per kg of fabric (post fiber parameters are
considered for calculation) 70-90 100-120 25-30 Around 45 – 90 litre
i.e., 70-85% less effluent liquor generation per kg
Results of Table 6 showed that the water consumption (in litre per kg of fabric), power consumption (in KW per kg of fabric), gas consumption in standard cubic meter (SCM) per kg of fabric, steam consumption in kg of fabric, and effluent liquor generation (in litre per kg of fabric) for preparation of fabrics in accordance with the present disclosure is less as compared to the existing cotton products.
Experiment 4: Physical testing
Physical testing of the chino type fabrics obtained after the finishing processes was carried out to check the quality of the fabrics. The standard test methods have been employed to carry out the tests:
Construction (EPI X PPI): ASTM D 3775 /IS;
Fabric weight (GSM): ASTM D 3776 /ISO;
Tensile strength (pounds) Warp x Weft: ASTM D 5034;
Tear Strength (in grams) Warp x Weft: ASTM D 1424/IS 6489; and
Pilling: ISO 12945-1/IS 10971.
The Table 7 below represents the results of the physical testing.
Table 7: Physical Testing
Blend Construction
(EPI x PPI) Fabric
Weight
(GSM) Tensile
Strength
(in grams) Warp x Weft Tear Strength (in grams) Warp x weft Pilling
Standard ASTM D
3775 /IS
1963 ASTM D
3776 /ISO
3801 ASTM D 5034 ASTM D 1424/IS 6489 ISO 12945-1/
IS 10971
100%
Cotton 78 x 68 243 41277 x 34473 3510 x 2990 4
Polyester/
Cotton (65/35) 76 x 70 244 44452 x 38102 4200 x 3300 3-4
SD VSF/Cott (1) 80 x 68 244 34473 x 25401 2625 X 2200 4
SD VSF/Cott (2) 80 x 70 246 36287 x 26308 2720 X 2260 4
SD VSF/Cott (3) 80 x 69 245 37648 x 28123 2825 X 2300 4
SD VSF/Cott (4) 82 x 70 248 39463 x 30844 2925 X 2400 4
SD VSF/Cott (5) 80 x 70 247 36741 x 29030 2875 X 2329 4
SD VSF/Cott (6) 82 x 70 249 36287 x 28123 2725 X 2380 4
SD VSF/Cott (7) 80 x 70 246 37648 x 31752 2825 X 2410 4
EPI = Ends per Inch; PPI = Picks per Inch; GSM = Grams per square meter; Pilling rating is given on the scale of number 1-5 (1 means poor, 2 means satisfactory, 3 means good, 4 means very good and 5 means Excellent).
Quality norms or requirements for a Chino type fabric (having fabric weight of more than 135 gsm):
- tensile strength should be at least 40 lbs x 30 lbs; and
- tearing strength should be at least 1350 grams x 1135 grams.
Results of Table 7 depict the comparison of fabrics prepared in accordance with the present disclosure and the commercially available Chinos (100% cotton and Cotton Polyester blends). From Table 7, it is observed the quality norms or requirements (as described above) are clearly met by the fabrics prepared in accordance with the present disclosure. Further, the fabrics of the present disclosure showed that the pilling rating is (4) very good as per the scale of numbers.
TECHNICAL ADVANCEMENTS
The present disclosure described herein above has several technical advantages including, but not limited to, the realization of;
? the Chino type fabric that;
• has improved dry and wet rubbing fastness (minimum 20% better fastness properties);
• is bleach resistance (minimum 25% better bleach proof fastness properties);
• never fades (minimum 15-25% better light fastness properties, and 25-30% better washing and perspiration fastness properties); and
• has higher shade/colour consistency and no shade/colour variation within batch and/or batch to batch; and
? the method of producing the Chino type fabric that;
• avoids cotton fibre/yarn/fabric dyeing i.e. stock dyeing (savings on dyestuff, dyeing auxiliaries/chemicals);
• is more economical and sustainable wet processing (Per kg of fabric 60-70% less water consumption, 50-60% less power consumption, 45-50% less gas consumption, 60-85% less steam consumption, and 75-85% less effluent liquor generation);
• is simple (20-25% less manufacturing process time excluding dyeing time); and
• gives higher productivity – more economical.
Throughout this specification, the word “comprise”, or variations such as “comprises” or “comprising, will be understood to imply the inclusion of a stated element, integer or step,” or group of elements, integers or steps, but not the exclusion of any other element, integer or step, or group of elements, integers or steps.
The embodiments herein and the various features and advantageous details thereof are explained with reference to the non-limiting embodiments in the following description. Descriptions of well-known components and processing techniques are omitted so as to not unnecessarily obscure the embodiments herein.
The foregoing description of the specific embodiments so fully reveal the general nature of the embodiments herein that others can, by applying current knowledge, readily modify and/or adapt for various applications such specific embodiments without departing from the generic concept, and, therefore, such adaptations and modifications should and are intended to be comprehended within the meaning and range of equivalents of the disclosed embodiments. It is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein is for the purpose of description and not of limitation. Therefore, while the embodiments herein have been described in terms of preferred embodiments, those skilled in the art will recognize that the embodiments herein can be practiced with modification within the spirit and scope of the embodiments as described herein.
The use of the expression “at least” or “at least one” suggests the use of one or more elements or ingredients or quantities, as the use may be in the embodiment of the invention to achieve one or more of the desired objects or results. While certain embodiments of the inventions have been described, these embodiments have been presented by way of example only, and are not intended to limit the scope of the inventions. Variations or modifications to the formulation of this invention, within the scope of the invention, may occur to those skilled in the art upon reviewing the disclosure herein. Such variations or modifications are well within the spirit of this invention.
Any discussion of documents, acts, materials, devices, articles or the like that has been included in this specification is solely for the purpose of providing a context for the disclosure. It is not to be taken as an admission that any or all of these matters form a part of the prior art base or were common general knowledge in the field relevant to the disclosure as it existed anywhere before the priority date of this application.
The numerical values given for various physical parameters, dimensions, and quantities are only approximate values and it is envisaged that the values higher than the numerical value assigned to the physical parameters, dimensions and quantities fall within the scope of the invention unless there is a statement in the specification to the contrary.
While considerable emphasis has been placed herein on the specific features of the preferred embodiment, it will be appreciated that many additional features can be added and that many changes can be made in the preferred embodiment without departing from the principles of the disclosure. These and other changes in the preferred embodiment of the disclosure will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the disclosure herein, whereby it is to be distinctly understood that the foregoing descriptive matter is to be interpreted merely as illustrative of the disclosure and not as a limitation.
,CLAIMS:WE CLAIM:
1. Waterless dyed Chino type fabrics made from yarn of spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and raw cotton fibers having a weight ratio in the range of 20:80 to 95:5, wherein said fabric is characterized by having;
• a weight in the range of 200 gsm to 350 gsm;
• a tensile strength (warp x weft) in the range of 34000 g X 25000 g to 64000 g X 58000 g; and
• a tear strength (warp x weft) in the range of 2600 g X 2200 g to 3700 g X 3200 g.
2. The fabrics as claimed in claim 1 is characterized by having;
• a weight in the range of 210 gsm to 300 gsm;
• a tensile strength (warp x weft) in the range of 34000 g X 25000 g to 39000 g X 31000 g; and
• a tear strength (warp x weft) in the range of 2600 g X 2200 g to 3000 g X 2400 g.
3. The fabrics as claimed in claim 1, wherein said yarn of said spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) and said raw cotton fibers are characterized by having;
• a single yarn strength (RKm) in the range of 10 to 16 g/tex;
• an elongation % in the range of 4 to 9;
• yarn count (Ne) in the range of 15 to 17 Ne; and
• turns per inch (TPI) in the range of 15 to 17.
4. A method for the production of waterless dyed Chino type fabrics, said method comprising the following steps:
(i) blending spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) with raw cotton fibers in a predetermined ratio at a predetermined temperature for a predetermined time period to obtain a homogeneous blend of fibers;
(ii) spinning said homogeneous blend of fibers to obtain a yarn;
(iii) weaving said yarn to obtain an unfinished woven fabric; and
(iv) subjecting said unfinished woven fabric to finishing processes without dyeing process to obtain said waterless dyed Chino type fabrics.
5. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein said predetermined ratio of the spun dyed viscose staple fibers (SD VSF) to the raw cotton fibers is in the range of 20:80 to 95:5.
6. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein said predetermined temperature is in the range of 10 °C to 50 °C.
7. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein said predetermined time period is in the range of 8 hours to 24 hours.
8. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein said spinning of fibers is carried out by a spinning technology selected from ring spinning, open end spinning, compact ring spinning, siro compact ring spinning and air jet spinning.
9. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein said weaving of said yarn is carried out by keeping said homogeneous blend of fibers as warp and 100% raw cotton fibers as weft to obtain said unfinished woven fabric.
10. The method as claimed in claim 4, wherein said finishing processes are selected from singeing, desizing, scouring/bleaching, washing and drying.
Dated this 22nd day of June, 2022

_______________________________
MOHAN RAJKUMAR DEWAN, IN/PA – 25
of R.K.DEWAN & CO.
Authorized Agent of Applicant

TO,
THE CONTROLLER OF PATENTS
THE PATENT OFFICE, AT MUMBAI